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Paul T

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Posts posted by Paul T

  1. 6 hours ago, 428CJ said:

    Just out of curiosity: If you dry clean raw unsanforized denim, does it shrink in the dry cleaning chemicals? I would think so, as the garments are still getting wet (just not with water).

    Generally no. I have done this with jeans to keep them dark and orginal size. There might be some shrinkage and even fading but it's negligible. Might vary with modern , less toxic chemicals but I suspect it will still be minimal.

  2. IIRC, in the late 70s, Cone changed the fabric to be pre-skewed, to eliminate leg twist. (I don't know how well it works, as when I used to go thru stacks of 501 in the 80s, you'd see lots and lots of leg twist). One guess therefore might be that Kaihara have over done the pre-skewing? Although my recollection , without checking, is it started in 79.

    That's only a guess, as I don't really understand how pre-skewing works, and even people experts like Ralph Tharpe aren't too sure why some jeans show more leg twist than others.

  3. 58 minutes ago, bod said:

    Ah, thanks for this. The Kaihara looks like a kind of cross between the first Kurabo, and the Cone. They seem to say the Kaihara version is completely loomstate. (and btw I'm saying that we started the loomstate craze on SuFu with the Roy Cone fabric. It was my and Ralph Tharpe's notion to do that, with the 1915 yarn. I don't recall anyone doing that before).

    Has anyone else noticed how the cut looks really different? In the Rakuten photo the tilt from front to back looks much more drastic.

  4. Ha, so the reason that fabric looks like Cone is because... they're using old photos of Cone.

    Of course, i'm assuming the new faric is Kaihara, but there is a chance it's Kurabo, who produced the first version. Looks nothing at all like the Cone, which is blue-er and much much gnarlier. Have we had any indication?

    My 1890s are Kurabo and are looking pretty good, they fade from a black blue to a very turquoise colour. But not as nice as the Cone, or the natural indigo that TCB are using for their 3-pleat, which looks pretty like the Cone, nice and stripey.

  5. 37 minutes ago, Sympathy-For-The-Denim said:

    some new 1993 repro now join LVC line

    a 1993 501 with black bar tacks and Big E along with leather patch? is this an attempt to reproduce the very 1st repro? :blink2:



    2 hours ago, bod said:

    I’m afraid it’s Kaihara cloth and made in Turkey.

    Ah, that's sad. Does it state that somewhere? Could be wrong, but it looked to me as if they'd reduced retail, if so that explains it. Fabric does look interesting though.

  6. 11 hours ago, cool_hand said:

    Paul, I don't believe the actual jeans you will receive will look like that earlier pic. If you go onto the website someone who purchased the 1937s has posted a picture of the jeans they received and they don't have that problem with the arcuates. I might be reading this wrong but it appears Jimmy returned his 1937s - just wondering why?

    You're right, I should have emphasised that that might simply be the wrong photo etc, just wanted to point out what was wrong in the pic posted.


  7. 31 minutes ago, cool_hand said:

    what specifically sucked on the new 1936?

    I've ordered the 1976 in the new denim today in both a 34 and 36 leg - if I like the denim I will probably keep the 36 based on your shrinkage.

    That earleir pic had the wrong pockets, with diamonds on the bottom of the arcuates, wrong shape for both pocket and arcuate . Like a Thai fake!

  8. Sorry, been doing real world work.

    I don't know why there are deep discounts, might well be normal with the economy.

    The 1880s natural indigo are the ones I wrote about earlier. Here's the indigo being harvested. The Three Pleat jacket is an identical denim except that it's synthetic-dyed. Can't wait to start on my jeans in the summer (the jacket is looking good, much like the last pix I posted except dirtier). At some point I'll post the latest version of my 1890s, 10 years old now, and starting to look somewhat worn-in.

    3-pleat jacket on discount looks very tempting, that looks like it's still the Cone to me???

    Yep, those 1937 look like a total botch!

    I wonder how all the Kaihara fabric is looking, would love to get updates.

  9. On 11/28/2019 at 8:48 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

    Thanks Simon, that was an enjoyable read and its an interesting site you have, congratulations on writing and publishing 5 books.

    I think you’re right that the Kaihara fabric of your jeans is unlikely to be used by LVC as they are all likely to be created specifically for each historic model and none will be as heavy as 14.25oz (assuming that is the raw weight). Also, bearing in mind yours were bespoke pairs, I’d assume (again) that the denim was sanforized.

    All the Lot 1 are indeed Sanforized, because they're all made bespoke it would be impossible to account for the differential shrinkage.

  10. You're right.

    They wanted to have 'earlier' jeans and for some crazy reason decided to call them after the 201 to make them more distinct. But they're really 501. The later 201 with Kurabo fabric is a pretty accurate replica (apart from the run  with the wrong arcuates!)

  11. That's a great option, if it is available shorter. It's purely a preference thing, I don't have any other jackets but the 3-pleat because I have just gone off the trucker style. The Levi's one is very tilted, it's a subtle cut.

    If it's natural indigo that would have to be a two or three year contest. You couldn't wear them all the time like jeans. Also, think of the folks with day jobs!

  12. 32 minutes ago, propellerbeanie said:

    There's a bit of extra info on the TCB blog. Doesn't confirm that they're natural indigo, but supposedly they've "succeeded in rope-dyeing them for the best fades" so maybe it won't be too difficult to fade. This is from the non-Google translated excerpt btw

    Yes, it surely is natural indigo. Very exciting!

    "This fabric uses natural indigo to reproduce the denim dyeing of the 1800s. In the case of natural indigo dyeing, the core of the yarn will be dyed and will not lose color. However, the vintage of the 1800's is discolored by consulting with the fabric shop and dyeing with natural indigo rope dyeing. "

    I suspect it will still be a bastard to fade. But I think ultimately that does give a better result. If I didn't have the Levi's Cone 1880s I would buy these pants. They're sewn so nicely, that puckering on the single line yoke looks lovely.

    (still want a gingham jacket).

  13. Just to confuse everyone more... Ralph Tharpe from Cone once told me that some of those early weights are wrong, a misreading of old documents because the weight referred to a yard long, full width piece of fabric which is just less than a square yard!

  14. Wow. Great that the triple pleat is becoming a classic. Hope it's a light-weight fabric. Please do one in gingham, inoue-san!

  15. THey are a lovely shape but the sizing is indeed tricky. I stopped wearing my denim one for a while as it felt too small after a machine wash. Can't find photos though! So here's the duck one. The cuffs feel mich shorter than they look, probably I am in some weird hunched-up pose. Dudewth, definitely hand wash only when it's time.


  16. I was living in SF for around nine months, they only did the tours for an occasional walk-thru, there were no denim nerds whatsoever, just bored retired peeps I think. They had big stashes of Big E tags in tupperware boxes, not that many people sewing, and the foreman wasn't that informative  - nor did I know that much then, about Cone or anyone, possibly I even asked him whether they'd sold the looms to Japan!  Of course I really regret that back then I didn't have a decent camera that would work in low light so I took no photos.

    Shame it matters so much... as in places like Valencia and Cone aren't around any more.

  17. 3 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

    (Pre-LVC) Capital E range I’d think.

    Absolutely. They had some generic features (did they have a crotch rivet?) but the fabric in particular was great. I dropped into Valencia Street over that period, around Dec 1994, and got into a little argy-bargy as I was wearing the Euro selvage 101J. Those do look great.

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