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Paul T

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Posts posted by Paul T


  1. kyl, the easiest way to think about it is that selvedge is short for "self edge" - ie the denim doens't need extra stitching to stop it unravelling. The pictures above should show the difference clearly. If there's an overstich, to stop the denim unravelling, it's not selvedge. The coloured lines were originally introduced so that the mills who produced the denim (for instance Cone, who made denim for both Lee and Levi's) could differentiate the denim they were sending to different clients.


  2. I am pretty certain these are not Sanforized - the first Euro reissues, made in eire were, and had repro-style tags, the second lot were made in Malta, and were not sanforized. They wouod have also had a small 'Dry' tag, as the idea was you simply dry cleaned them to keep them marked size. Of course they didn't tell you they weren't sanforized at the time, so consequently mine are effectively a size below my Levi's even though they've only ever been wahsed cold ... all the same, I wouldn't describe them as a baggy fit, and would say these reissues have perhaps a very slight taper, certainly the legs are way narrower than the cut of 1930s Leiv's which I normallly wear.

    I still have around 12 pairs of these jeans. I sold most of the early sanforized ones off on market stalls, but these were the jeans that made me start off buying new, because they were really well-made for the price, hard-wearing, and are simply nicer jeans than little e selvage Levi's.


  3. They're good jeans, but these look like the middle version of the Euro reissue, probably made in Malta, which aren't Sanforized, so you have to allow for shrinkage. They're a left-hand twill, like the originals, with plain white selvage, no redline, again like the originals, with a reasonably narrow leg, like 47 Leiv's, but more shaped, less anti-fit, around the backside. Denim is slightly greener than the Leiv's Cone fabric (I think this fabric comes from Nisshinbo) and it looks great raw. Dy clean them for the first year, and you get a great high-contrast fade. They age beautifully. For £60 these are good value.


  4. I've just seen some more fake selvage in Urban Outfitters. These were True Religion womens pants, which have the normal busted outseam, but with pink strips stitched to the outside edges, to approximate a thick pink selvage line.


  5. I'm looking for vintage denim and leather, primarily. I remember one biker store on Woodward that was good for jackets and converse, (dont' remember much denim). Anyone here know of any good stores or thrift-shops in Detroit, Ann Arbor or the general area?? Or any interesting shops/locations not denim related, too. TIA.


  6. actually, people within Levi's have mentioned they thought this year's LVC collection was uninspired compared to previous years. Sure, those 1890s and 1947 jeans look great, but they are basically repeats or revisions of earlier models. But, for instance, in the Fall 2003 range there were terrific coveralls, (the Kover-up), cool women's western jackets, a slim-fitting 1930s biker leather jacker, and a real favourite of mine, the 1907 Sunset Chambray shirt - all of them funky, unusual items that complemented the basic range of 501s and denim jackets.

    Hopefully this is just a glitch, and we'll get a few more off-the-wall items next year. Does anyone know how the prospects for LVC are seen within LS&Co?


  7. They're pretty good copies though... touches like the stock control strips on the leather-like patch are pretty convincing, even if the assemblage of details, like selvage watch pockets (which are incorrectly sewn here) are wrong... wonder what the denim, and pocket shape etc, looks like in the flesh?


  8. Has no one apart from me seen full-on fake selvage? IE a strip sewed on to a busted seam? I've seen it on some H&M jeans. Looked pretty cool, actually, especailly given the price...


  9. The Malta-made 101 reissues have zippers... but aren't Sanforized. They are the ones which were sold with the 'Dry' tags.

    Funnily enough, over time, the original Sanforzied ones used to shrink too, it just seems to take longer. Checking my old Sanforized and non-Sanforized 32-32 pairs, they all seem to end up at around the same size.


  10. Quick thoughts: Japanese reissues will have Japanese tags, Euro reissues have country of origin tags, too. Only the early Euro reissues are sanforized (alho they do shrink btw) and have the back pocket linings. Then there's all the normal clues, just how the denim looks and has aged; old lees, pre 60s, often have a greeny colour cast which reisses don't have. It's hard to replicate the look of old jeans which have never been washed in modern detergents.

    I think yours look authentic, in that the reissues with the old-style tags had the -double- selvage. Do they have the pocket linings etc? All the same, I;m not certain, becuase the 1940s Lees I've seen actually had double selvage - the single selvage seems to come in early 50s, while the selvage is gone by 1958 (my estimate from looking at Lee ad archive shots). TO confuse matters, old Lees, from the ones I've seen (only maybe 20 pre-60s pairs in the flesh) do seem to vary in detail a lot - particularly the denim, maybe they vary more accroding to how they're washed.

    I don't know about vintage prices, but I'm told they'll be in the same ballpark as Levi's equivalents of similar vintage...


  11. "how do vintage lee riders compare in quality to levis LVC?"

    Mmm, hard to compare a vintage with a new item. Old Lee, like old Levi's, jeans are very variable, the fits change over the years, but they're just as worthy of investigaion.

    Lee Europe's reissues used to be terrific - really good value, and great sanforized denim. They've cheapened the range slightly (they were made in Eire, then Malta, and now Poland), the denim is still good but now it's non-sanforized, and some of the detailing isn't as nice, but they're still good value for money, significantly cheaper than LVC. Their standard cut is reasonably close to 47 Levi's... I would always dry clean mine for the first six months, and they fade absolutely beautifully.

    I don't own any of the Edwin-made Lee reissues, but they're very, very well made with beautiful, left-hand twill, sanforized selvage denim which comes from Nisshinbo.


  12. Cone did lose a lot of their old staff with the old looms - the new looms required fewer operators. I've been told that when Cone reintroduced selvage they had to entice staff out of retirement to operate them.

    FWIW, as COne had a lot of looms at one time, I don't see why some of them couldn't have ended up in Japan. But the story started by Evis that they'd bought them is, I believe, total rubbish.


  13. lee Cooper were always a different company, but I believe they were bought by VF corporation (who own Lee and Wrangler) a few years ago. Riders is the name that Lee called their 'Cowboy jeans' from the 1940s...


  14. Let me add to that statement...

    I had a faxed 'interview' with the man who first made the claim to have bought "old Levi's looms". He told me exactly that in a faxed statement. THen I faxed him and asked, "well, are you saying that you bought some of Cone's old looms, because of course Levi's never owned any'. His reply was vague, but essentially he said he had bought "american-style vintage looms'. Of course, even this was not true, as the jeans manufacturer in question bought its denim in from another company in Osaka. This, to me, indicated that the claim about buying old Cone looms was initially a nice piece of spin, to embellish what was essentially true, that Japan, rather than the US, had become the true home of high quality selvage denim.


  15. Geowu, I would love to see definitive accounts of whether Cone sold looms to Japan. But given the number of Toyoda looms in circulation in Japan (and even Europe and the US), I can't see why the Japanese would want to buy them. I'm sure there will be some US looms there, but I don't believe they were the ones used for volume production. People I know who went to Kurabo in the late '80s tell me they didn't see any evidence of American, as opposed to Japanese, looms...


  16. Tod's are great. I have a lovely tan pair, and they have some stunning Ferrari ones that are sadly beyond my means. HOWEVER, loads of people seem to be doing TOd's copies now, and Banana Republic have an acceptable moccasin in very soft tan suede for $60 that is pretty well made, I have a pair for loafing around the house, and will buy another when I'm back in the US...


  17. haha! This is like on of those 'thru the keyhole' questions! They're a 1930s repro. I would think, but I can't see a selvage line, which would be blue on the 201, and doesn't normally fade. HEnce i would guess it's more likely to be a 501 with faded red line... but I didn't look too hard cos it made my eyes hurt... if you can see rivets on the back pockets then the jeans are a circa 1933 reissue, otherwise they're a 1937 reissue.


  18. I was given one of those nice booklets with the full range but I, er, lost it. There is one nicely-aged one-pocket pair, in the style of the Indigo Immortal, I think they're a 1886 repro, which is also available in rigid. I haven't seen a sample, though.

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