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Paul T

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Posts posted by Paul T


  1. I've seen their selvage range - the ones I remember were full selvage, though. They looked pretty good, dry dark denim, kind of a vintage straight leg cut, but pretty generic. I only saw their dry ones (this was back in the summer when they were being launched), and can't remember seeing any washes. personally, if I buy cheap selvage, mine would be from uniqlo, i prefer the more utilitarian look.


  2. I'm interested in this. I've seen a few people say the Indigo, presumably from Cone, is not up to par. Yet some of the LVC denim looks terrific, in particular the Indigo Immortal, and its plain version, the 1901 501s, which have a terrific, very dark cast; the pair I have are developing a really good, high contrast. I assume the 1901 jeans used Cone denim, so are they using different dying methods?


  3. Orange were a budget range. Can't remember the details, and I should look this up, but a lot of details like the stitching were simpler, and no rivets. Personally I really like the orange tab 607 jeans. Even fairly recent ones seemed to have nicer denim than contemporary 501s.


  4. I think if that piano was a sample he would HAVE to credit it, or he would get his ass sued, because it's such a prominent part of the track. Other samples are credited on the album, tho of course everything on Endtroducing etc wasn't. Loads of people who started off using shitloads of samples have ended up generating 'new' ones for legal reasons.


  5. I don't think it's a sample, cos it continues all the way thru the song.. I think it's a Beck-ish trick where Thom's playing piano and they've added hiss and compression.. the begining is Eric Satie-ish and the middle 8 tips its hat to Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata ( i think...)


  6. nevadas were £250 sterling, so I would guess $501 was the price. Maybe they discounted it all the way down to $500 cos the Lot Number didn't apply! There was another (not so nice) heavily patched early 501 that was $501 for a run of 501 too.


  7. That second one, a 1937 repro, is the Limited Edition. It's called the Indigo Heart. I have a pair in front of me. They're pretty nice, although the quality of wear etc is not on a par with, eg, the indigo immortals - they're not high contrast. Personally, I tend to prefer the Deadstock versions of all of these, unless you get the very best finishes like the Indigo Immortal, and especially the Nevada $45000 replicas, which do seem to have better wear than anything you can get yourself. Does anyone know who does the wear on all of these? I know Bart Sights did the really good ones from 2002/2003.

    Mind you, everyone who's seen the denim duffel bag that comes with the wartime Ltd Edition thought it was a really cool 50 year old vintage item...


  8. Interstate and American Classics on Endell St, London, also the Lee store in Carnaby St. Selfridge's have had the Edwin-made Lee in stock in the past but I haven't seen any recently.


  9. Well yes, you're right, on old jeans which aren't pre-skewed, the fabric will try to follow the direction of the weave as it shrinks. That's why Levi's twist one way, and Lee the other, as lee is a l/h twill. But when the Red jeans (and Rogan, and teddy Smith, and Michiko Koshino) were designed, they made the leg twist symmetrical, ie one leg one way, the other leg the other way, simply cos it looks better like that. The Leiv's deisgners were inspried by the look of old jeans, but didn't copy them slavishly. Those first Red jeans - in an almost hemp-liek fabric - didn't look AT ALL like any old Levi's I've seen!


  10. I spoke to Rikke about this. The idea for the twisted seams came from vintage jeans - she took that characteristic and exaggerated it. The idea fro the Type 1/RED came from much the same source - she was looking at old ads for jeans and realised how striking all the stitching and rivets would have looked in victorian times, so again she exaggerated it for the Red range.

    I thought selvage denim DID twist after wash, in exactly the same way as non-selvage, but the difference is that older jeans weren't pre-skewed.


  11. THe Edwin-made ones are very good quality. I'm interested to hear that they shrink, too. The European-made repros went through several phases - initally made in Eire, and supposedly Sanforized (altho they still shrink too), with more details such as the pocket linings. Then they were made in Malta, without the Sanforized tab, and finally in Poland.

    I think they're all great jeans, particularly in terms of value for money, and when they first appeared were better than the competing 'Capital E' Levi's. The denim used was dark, with a gree hue, and if you dry-clean them for the first six months or so give a great, high contrast fade. The Euro ones have a cut a bit like 1947 501s, with straight legs, and a high, but not too high waist.

    I think all the Lees, japanese, and at least the early European, were made with Fabric from Nisshinbo. If i get some spare time I'll post pix of some well-worn examples I have.


  12. I'd be interested to see photos. The Polish-made Lee 101s I've seen have half-selvage, rather like Serge's signature photo, with the selvage side conventionally woven. I suspect, like ringring, that this is wide-look selvage with stitching added - certainly it would be very easy to do.


  13. Cheaper leather has the grain printed on. After a while you will recognise this. Good leather is irregular, and might even have marks from barbed wire etc. It will tend to be more of a matte finish, and the texture will be less plasticky. And yes, it will smell more like... leather. But beware, even some expensive leather stuff won't lost. I bought my girlfriend a Tanner Kroll bag, and it hasn't worn well. Bill Amberg stuff, in comparison, is far hardier.


  14. I'm certain there's a 1944 501 in addition to the ones Purest listed, and there might be a women's 701 1944 too (i had the booklet but can't find it). Duffel bag is for the 1944s (I think with the washed version) and a green wartime tee-shirt; there will be a small exhibition about the war/ wartime Levi's at Cinch in London - so I suspect they will be UK-only. The 1879 jeans (washed and rigid) will be available in the UK, and it wouldn't surprise me if the washed version is Ltd Edtn too. The generic theme of the collection is GIs and Mods...


  15. Haha, this is a subjective question, I have both the Indigo Immortal and new-ish looking 1901 jeans which I'm pretty sure are much the same cut as the 1890, and a couple of women both commented they looked great. They are quite antifit, so they kind of hang flat, I think if your bum's not too big they will look good and not unflattering. Getting the right size is key (if you buy the rigid pair, try on the washed pair first). I did have a pair of 1880s natural Indigo rigid jeans which were too big, and with that antifit cut they made me look like Coco the clown. Rare as they were, I had to flog them on the 'bay.


  16. The uniqlo suggestion is a great one. It's on Regent St. Check out Liberty's, also on Regent St, and Selfridge's, just up Oxford St, for a wide range of denim. Cinch, the Levi's shop, is on Newburgh St, just off Carnaby St. Then there's Interstate and American Classics, with more traditional-style denim - Edwin, LVC etc - 15 minutes walk away on Endell St. For CDs and vinyl go to Berwick St in Soho.

    If you're up by 9am on Sunday, get to Brick Lane, a great street market, then have curry for lunch, or coffee at Spitalfields market. Look at SCP for modern furniture, on Curtain Road. Just off Brick Lane is loungelover, an excellent (but expensive) bar...

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