owlofminerva

On 8/6/2022 at 12:17 AM, givemefive said:

If they do ever stop making clothes I'm buying every pair of SOC Carmel in stock in my size. 

I've got 3 years on mine as my primary denim and they'll easily go another 6 but I need a lifetime supply

100%.  These are the best fitting, best looking jeans.  I think at this point "lifetime supply" might be 3-4 pairs, but I have had this exact thought.  Wish I had done that with their t-shirts.

On 6/2/2022 at 4:44 PM, CityHunter said:

This search function isn't working for me. UGH. I hope someone can help me out! I know Stevenson is notorious for vanity sizing (well, the "older" versions)...I was thinking of getting a pair of La Jolla's. I'm a standard size 34. I had a pair YEARS ago in a 34 and I remember them being too big. I recently got a size 33 Santa Rosa and I think they fit great. Should I be sizing down 2 (to 32), and will that be safe on the La Jolla's? 

I am very late to this, so I'm not sure this is going to help, but Stevensons are weirdly complicated to fit.  It is true that the actual waist measurement is often significantly bigger than the tagged waist size.  But the REST of the measurements are (in my opinion) true to size for most bodies.  So if you size down to get the waist right, everything else is going to be too tight (especially on the slimmer fits).  I always go tagged waist and wear a belt.  The upside (and maybe the intention?) is that these are jeans with an attractive fit that aren't agony to sit down in.

Very excited that Stevenson is making new clothes again.  But it looks like they are no longer making what has become a staple of my wardrobe, the world's best t-shirt:

I just love those sleeves and the color.  Merz B Schwanen does a SS henley with similar sleeves, but Stevenson is the only brand I know of that was using them on a plain crew neck T.  Does anyone know of anyone else that might make a shirt like this, or if Atsu can be talked into making another run of these?  Mine are starting to become a bit threadbare...

On 11/8/2021 at 8:35 AM, kiya said:

Stevenson Absolutely Amazing Merino Wool Thermals

Stevenson’s Absolutely Amazing merino wool thermal shirts are back, available in new colors, and now available up to size XXL. 

These are some of the most impressive things we've ever carried and are designed to be worn alone or used as a layering piece. These are made of a Japanese certified mulesing-free fine merino wool, they’re extremely soft and can be worn in both cold and somewhat warm climates due to the natural temperature regulating properties of merino wool. Clients who’ve purchased these two years ago immediately came back asking for more colors and we're glad Stevenson was able to deliver this year. You can find the new Red, Palermini Pink, and Mocha colors along with a restock of the Khaki and Charcoal at all stores now.

Shop Stevenson Overall Co. Online

 

So nice to see some new product from SOC, even if it’s just some new colors for an old product.  I was really worried that they might not have survived the pandemic.  Kiya, do you know if they’re going to be releasing a new catalog any time soon?

On 5/25/2021 at 10:52 AM, kiya said:

Rick Owens for Self Edge 16oz Indigo Black-Waxed Detroit jeans

The Rick Owens for Self Edge 16oz Indigo Black-Waxed Detroit jeans, they’re here. This is an all new denim developed exclusively for Self Edge in the Made in Japan version of Rick Owens’ Detroit fit as part of their PHLEGETHON SS21 season. We’re all familiar with black overdyed jeans, where the denim starts as indigo and is overdyed (aka, garment dyed) black for a unique washed out black denim which ages over time to become an interesting combination of black and indigo with wear. With this new release the fabric starts off as a heavy 16oz Japanese selvedge indigo denim which has been heat treated with a special black garment wax to give the fabric the appearance of a black denim. With wear as the wax wears off the jean will reveal the indigo denim beneath the wax in places of hard wear; this wear happens far faster on a waxed jean than an overdyed jean. We love the way these turned out, and are excited to offer this jean in what we think is the most versatile jean silhouette Rick Owens produces. We’re looking forward to further exploring the possibilities of this type of “overdying” as it’s an eco-friendly way to turn an indigo blue denim into black.

This Rick Owens release is exclusive to Self Edge and is a continuation of the first capsule which was released in the fall of 2019 as part of the LARRY collection. You can find these new Indigo Black-Waxed jeans at all stores and online now.

Shop Rick Owens Online

Really love the look of this denim, but worried about the fit.  Are these going to be too skinny for a 45 year old man who lifts weights?

6 hours ago, diggers said:

Chemise Fantaisie + Faro Waistcoat

thx @smoothsailor for the shirt ❤️

Nice!  What are the trousers?

On 12/24/2020 at 10:20 AM, Broark said:

Some photos of the wool thermal I just got from SE, like I mentioned this is one of the nicest things I've bought in a long time.
The honeycomb knit detail is really nice and the merino wool used is very soft and not at all itchy.
I'll try to get some fit pics up, I'll definitely be dry cleaning this one to avoid any shrink.
 

Broark is this the light grey or the dark grey?  I already have the charcoal, and it is in regular rotation, but I think I may like this shade even more and might just pick it up.

By the way, I have hand washed mine in cold water twice and there was no noticeable shrinkage...  That said, it was already pretty form fitting and stretchy, so I'm not sure I would have noticed if it did.

Rangefinder is also S/S, as is the down vest that other retailers are carrying.  Fingers crossed that they are doing ok.

7 hours ago, Broark said:

I'm thinking I'll go for 38 in both which is my normal OA size.
Just kind of on the fence about white pants!

I chose my regular waist size (i.e. one size down from my usual OA size).  But I tend to like a slightly slimmer fit.

Those pics of Ryo have me convinced that a full tuxedo with the overalls plus the jacket is the way to go here.

(That said, I only have the jacket in denim, and am planning to only do the denim pants.)

These are so awesome.  Like dude, I'm really excited about the lightweight fabrics.  How is everyone thinking about sizing these?

Love my black seed test lots.  I'll try to post an evo shot soon (front only, unfortunately, for the usual reasons).  They look, feel, and fit great.

On 8/8/2020 at 12:18 PM, MJF9 said:

@owlofminerva Obviously Duke's your man for FW.... fwiw I like your fit and think it's in keeping with the intended style. The jacket fits well in the shoulders - therefore I can't see a smaller jacket size working. The sleeves are all I'd let the tailor loose on from what I can see. I personally like room in trousers when worn with suspenders and I think suspenders would bring this outfit to life. Why not put some good wear into the outfit first to see how it drapes to your body, before deciding on any intervention from a tailor which would likely be irreversible.

On 8/8/2020 at 2:04 PM, Duke Mantee said:

Said it better than me - sizing is very personal and it defines your style

On 8/8/2020 at 2:58 PM, MJF9 said:

You've demonstrated the spectrum here Duke which shows how a range of sizing can work well.

Tangential but related, I remember a post from Roy (maybe on his IG) where he wears his jeans in three sizes. One size down, his 'usual' size and one up. All three worked and worked well. All it came down to, as you say, and as did he, was personal preference.

I really appreciate your help thinking this through, MJF9 and Duke.

13 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

For me if you’re wearing the trousers with braces (suspenders) they’ll hang well but you’ve got room. The sleeves are too long but not difficult to get adjusted and again wearing it sack coat style, ie baggy, it’s going to be fine when you’re wearing more than a tee.

Many years ago I tried the Jackson in 42 chest / 34 waist - if memory serves it fitted like yours. That’s real old timey working class style, but I wanted to compromise that for a slightly different look so went down to a 40c/32w ... it’s possible you could do the same. I guess it’s down to the style you want.

 

Thanks, Duke, this is very helpful.  I may have been better off sizing down, but I'm not seeing this for sale in the smaller sizes anywhere (that said, my "searching Japanese webstores" skills are pretty weak, especially with Rakuten Global Marketplace gone).  So I'm going to see what a tailor can do.

14 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

I’m a Size 40 in all FW jackets, and although my waistline seems to be expanding I am/was a Size 32 in all FW pants (except the Lot601XX which I size to 33 because I like how they hang) and finally a Size 42 in vests because I like the flexibility of wearing them looser or cinching them.

The Jackson trousers are loose fitting with quite a heavy taper - I don’t think that shows very well in some photographs. The jacket is a Sack Coat and is almost A-line. It sounds like you got the correct sizes since you got a fit on shoulders and waist. I eventually got my trousers shortened to ankle length, they drape nicely that way, but no other tailoring was necessary.

Can you post some pics?

Here are some fit pics.  IDK, maybe I should have gone down a size?

19 minutes ago, Broark said:

What size did you get? I’m interested in tracking down the jacket someday so I’m interested in measurements compared to those from different stores.

42 jacket.  34 trousers.  Happy to measure for you...  I'm actually still waiting on the vest because Speedway didn't have it and the seller I found wants to use EMS, who apparently still aren't shipping to the US.

It really is an awesome suit.

On 5/20/2020 at 10:52 AM, Duke Mantee said:

Ok another little batch. I think we need to smarten up so here’s some of my ‘sack coats’

Freewheelers Jackson Late 1800’s Tailored Hunting Coat, Original Heavyweight Moleskin, Yarn Dyed Black #1121001

(Sorry to respond to such an old post; hopefully that's kosher.)

Hi, Duke.  How did you size the Jackson jacket/vest/pants?  I just got the ensemble from Speedway and while I really dig the details and the fabric, it is VERY baggy.  Shoulders on the jacket are perfect, as is the waist on the trousers, so I think I chose the right size, and I was expecting a full cut, but this is maybe a bit too full for my tastes.  In the fit pics I've seen you post here, it looks like the suit fits you very well.  Did you get everything tailored?

Also seeing now that SS20 is now online.  Liking the knits but not much else is catching my eye right now.

4 hours ago, JDelage said:

Could someone explain to me what goes into "black indigo" vs "indigo" in those coton sweaters? Is that the number of dips, the color of the underlying thread, the concentration of the dye vat,...?

Black indigo: http://www.soc-la.com/item.php?c=1212

Indigo: http://www.soc-la.com/item.php?c=1213

Thanks.

I have this shirt and it is definitely black and fading to grey, not a so-dark-blue-it-looks-black.  It doesn’t smell like rotten eggs, so it isn’t sulfur dyed.  It’s something that fades like indigo but is black and not blue.  Not sure how helpful this is in answering your question.  I, too, would love to know more about how it is done.

This isn't meant to contradict Broark or Cold Summer, but I think it's worth pointing out that for people accustomed to modern, ultra-tapered fits, the 3009 will look pretty darned straight.  I teach at a high school and my students have teased me for wearing "boot cut" (!) jeans when I break out my 3009s.

FW19 is up.

http://www.soc-la.com/collection.php?c=15

Lots to like, but too much overlap with what I already have, so I’m probably not going to get anything this season.  Really like the bomber and the deck jacket and would probably be all over them if I didn’t already have a top notch MA-1 (Buzz) and an N1 (IH).

I might talk myself into that sweater...

On 7/21/2019 at 11:33 PM, kiya said:

Stevenson Overall Summer Collection - Delivery Three

This week have Stevenson's final summer delivery which includes some nice t-shirts in very impressive fabrics, Recon fatigue pants in a new slub cotton fabric, and their new 220 Carmel straight tapered jeans.

All these items are available now at all stores and online.  

Shop Stevenson Online
 

I think I've said it here before, but Stevenson is one of the few labels in menswear that has S/S collections that are equal to or superior to F/W.

Bought the terry cloth shirt when it dropped, and it is a favorite.  It's a bit more of a "fashion" shirt than most of what I wear, if that makes sense, but not ostentatiously so.  I've been wearing it once or twice a week since July.

Used the sale as an excuse to buy a pair each of the Carmels and the new Recons.  I picked up the Recons in indigo a year or two ago and love them, but the fit on these is (in my opinion) dramatically improved.  A bit more roomy in the butt (does it have a higher rise, too?) and thighs, and a bit more tapered through the lower leg.  Wish they had done these again in indigo...

And the Carmels are just a great fitting jean.  I know a lot of folks on here are bothered by the big waist on most Stevenson cuts; I think these (mostly) solve that problem for me.  This is maybe a weird thing to say, but I think if I worked at SE I might recommend these to someone wanting to graduate from APCs to Japanese denim...

On 6/6/2019 at 2:29 PM, kiya said:

The story of a Flat Head indigo-dyed linen shirt: https://www.instagram.com/p/ByYLvteniid/

New ones available here: https://www.selfedge.com/the-flat-head

Kiya, what is “100% cotton linen”?  I ask as a proud owner of both the LS and SS versions, who doesn’t quite know what they’re made of...

On 3/16/2019 at 7:57 PM, tewsday said:

Finally had some time to take a couple fit pics of my SE x R01 (size 33). I personally like this relaxed fit, but will be doing a hot soak/sun dry to get some shrinkage out. I will upload post-soak fit pics when I get the chance... 

 

These look great!  I sized down for the test lots, which (I think) are the same cut, and I’m wishing now that I had picked these up and either gone tts or maybe even sized up.  It’s cool that you can get such different fits from the same cut.

What is that jungle fatigue shirt, btw?  Army surplus, or Japanese repro?

Oh that’s really nice.  What is the maximum number of type 3s a guy can own?