dilemmaworker

On 1/31/2017 at 3:31 PM, mikkadehachikai said:

From pics, I find them closer to the quality, construction and the fit to that of an APC than Flathead. I find comparison with Flathead quite generous. But more choices, the better. 

For construction, APCs aren't chainstitched or bartacked. 

For denim, APC uses a denim with a rather shallow dye which gives the impression of being dipped 3 times whereas Japanese brands will do 10+ dips for a deeper color and better fades. 

That's ok because APC isn't trying to do a repro jean and they're target customer only somewhat overlaps with the user base here. I still buy and wear APC but it's a different type of garment. 

Overcomer is different on both points. Construction methods are what you'd expect from a repro brand, and the denim is dyed much deeper. I guess the pictures don't show that as well as they could but I do think they make jeans comparable to a Japanese brand. Due to cut and fading, the best reference might be the Denime guy's new brand. 

On 9/11/2014 at 4:43 AM, tmadd said:

The other big problem though is that the kind of production that is sought out for repros etc. used to be a standard part of scaled factory production, before "innovation" paved the way for all sorts of cost cutting measures.  Nobody is making Levi's repros at anywhere near the scale Levi's was in the 50's and 60's, and it's honestly pretty remarkable that some of the Japanese companies do it for the prices they do, at the level they do.  

Don't mean to bring up a dead thread of this discussion but I have to add in that I've also wondered for a long time how Japanese brands are able to make their garments at such high quality and relatively low price. 

Also, to find a good denim factory is very difficult. 

Cool, those Whoopers are giving off strong Maverick/Blue Bell vibes. 

Bill, hope you won't mind me sharing the little teaser (html source code) you left on your new project.

THEN. Clothing inspired by the great architects, designers, artists, and writers of mid-Twentieth Century Europe, Britain, and America. Produced in Britain and Japan by William Kroll and Homestead, Ltd.

http://t-h-e-n.com/

Looking forward to this.

From their Taobao:

2 hours ago, aho said:

^Welcome back HJJ! Interesting brand, I honestly need to delve more into Chinese as I haven't owned a pair yet and theres a ton of good stuff coming out of there lately...

Good to be back!

53 minutes ago, edmond said:

How do i buy overcomer ?

Taobao. As I am now based in China, I could also set something up if there is enough interest.

Hi everyone, new old user here. I took a long break, from around 2010, from this scene and haven't been in the loop until a few months ago when I heard from a friend about a number of emerging Chinese brands. Having looked over their respective Taobao shops one of them stuck out and I bought my first pair of jeans in about five years (not counting APCs I've bought for work).

That brand was Overcomer and I like them mostly for their toned down aesthetic (more Warehouse than Samurai) and also because they made a model we don't usually see, namely 1975 501s. These come in two versions, a regular Chinese denim and a Cone denim. Cone has always been lackluster for me so I went with the former, the Overcomer 051ss, and a pair of APC New Standards and a pair of Flathead 3001s. 

The 051ss come one-wash and in these photos, I've already washed them three times; first a cold machine wash after which they didn't properly dry and took on a bit of a smell. Second cold wash didnt quite do it, so I soaked them in boiling water and that did the trick. For this reason, they're much more blue in these images than when new.

In short, the denim is different than most other that I've seen, because it is very hairy, not that rigid, very tightly woven and because there is no weft showing through they look almost black when new, until you compare them to an actual black fabric, that is. This is very similar to the 551zxx that I've had before, in every respect. The fit is also somewhat similar, though the 551s are a 1960s (1963?) model. I'd say these fit pretty much like a 66 cut. Note, however, that they come very short.

Here's a comparison to my Flatheads:

APC, Overcomer, Flathead. 

As a conclusion, the Overcomers are a level above the APCs in terms of denim and construction, and on a similar level to the Japanese brands that are popular among us here. They have a very small lineup right now and this is their only pair of jeans, but hopefully they'll be producing more.

Some of their lookbook shots: