dilemmaworker

’最后的66‘是什么意思？

im on my second pair of Overcomer 051ss. They've changed denim but there's no big difference. Mainly the new one has some slight, slight slubbiness or unevenness in the weave, and the first denim had a bit of an 'open-ended' look to it. went down one in waist and length, so they're just perfect now. i think of these as my new standard jeans, replacing APC for now.

On 2/21/2019 at 9:42 AM, snchz said:

Today wearing the mirror panel pullover, green lambswool version.

 

 

Is this still available? Can I get it shipped to China?

edit: no worries, found it on tender stores. is there any sizing chart available? absolutely nutter, this pullover.

http://dilemmaworks.com/stage-1

more soon

On 7/11/2017 at 5:49 AM, rodeo bill said:

^this is such a great shot, I always really like your photos- thank you!

While various Tender stuff percolates, here are a few more details about THEN, which has been mentioned briefly a couple of times. It's a very small project, but which I feel really good about- it's been quite a bit of work but is very personal. I came across a fantastic archive of mid-20th Century fabric designs, which were lovely in their own right, but also really strongly reminded me of my grandparents and great-aunt, who were designers working from the 1940s to the 80s. The idea was to take these fabrics (reworked a bit), and cut them into the kind of clothes which people like my grandparents wore. While the work they did was pretty avant garde, the clothes they wore themselves were very simple and tasteful, almost conservative.

Fabrics got woven up in the UK, and the garments are made to a very precise, tailored, level, in Japan. Bone china swingtags are an homage to Barbara Hepworth, and are made in England. Here are a few photos:

As I said, this is a personal side project, so it may not be every season, but it should keep popping up one way or another. The first production is now available at PRESENT, as well as Maidens in Tokyo and Loftman in Kyoto. The name, THEN, is partly about the idea of time (a previous era, but also a link to the future, the next step), and also a reference to a great book of photographs by Alexander Liberman, who was a friend of my grandfathers (I believe).

Apologies that this may not be for everyone, back to regular scheduled programming soon 

wanna cop em all. btw, I have the Liberman biography and my publishing imprint is fairly inspired by VU.

On 7/10/2017 at 7:56 PM, Megatron1505 said:

And yes we use some Chinese, Korean and Thai seamstresses.   This is simply because we can’t find enough Japanese who want to do the job any longer - it’s a crisis the whole Japanese industry faces.  But we pay all our workers the same whatever their race creed or colour.

anybody that has a problem with their jeans being sewn by a person from Thailand rather than Japan need to take a step back and examine their way of thinking. 

^agree

^agree

Dov is back with a new brand, Los Angeles Apparel.

So it's a Japanese brand started by an American mill named after a Chinese province. Cool!

Canton is supposedly the first Japanese denim brand, established in 1963 and at some point went bankrupt. Japanese retailer 1LDK is now bringing back the brand -- below copied from their blog:

“POP UP CANTON®OVERALLS at 1LDK PARIS”

I got into denim in 2004 or 2005 and was bored by 2010 after living in Tokyo, where it became so normal, and after seeing the whole lumberjack trend blowing up in EU and NA. Just now starting to get a little more excited again, and also think that forums and blogs will be coming back after social networks have pretty much taken over. I do still love Instagram, though.

This just popped up on Facebook 

I just realized that a couple of people I follow on Instagram regularly post things that I'd never otherwise have the opportunity to see, even if I was living in Tokyo and venturing out to vintage shops every single day. This guy below is a collector and posts a lot of great garments from his collection.

So I just thought we could use a thread to share the best post and accounts to follow. Let's see what you've got!

@volvo, those RC436s remind me a lot of the 1937 Warehouses (forgot the model name), quality and detail wise, like how they sewed the backpockets. Is this a discontinued model?

There's a guy on Instagram who I think is Overcomer's founder - https://www.instagram.com/brucedu1981/

Stealing some of his pics; apparently he has a bunch of 1970s small es that they look at for inspiration.

HELLER’S CAFE 
HC-1924Z 1920’s Zipperfly Jeans OR

wild arcuate.

and kinda funny zipper innovations.

Fit looks great and it's nice to see a Leepro. Is this a Japanese brand?

anybody know why 33oz.com is inaccessible?

10 minutes ago, JDelage said:

Shipping int'ly is only 1/2 of the problem. The other difficulty lies in accepting US-based payments (e.g., Paypal, but not rkb or webmoney).

Any straight/regular ('55 style 501) denim, and that: https://world.taobao.com/item/540748377923.htm

I'd make sure you could pay with PayPal, Visa and MasterCard!

Hey guys, let's say I set up a shop that stocked Red Cloud and shipped internationally. Which pieces would you be most interested in seeing in that shop?

The 1975 fit is pretty similar to a 1966 to me. Mid-rise, tapered, but not slim legs. 

Waist circumference | Thigh width | Inseam | Front rise | Leg opening

I find the onewash measurements to be accurate. However, you can now get them in longer inseams, so the very short inseam in this chart are not necessarily true if you choose a different length.

On 2/27/2017 at 6:56 AM, JDelage said:

I'll just leave that here. Look at the arctuates on those collabs:

- http://unique-jean.co.jp/user_data/goldman.php

I'd buy these for the arcs alone! Love the asymmetry and playfulness of this shape, sort of like the Evisu arc.

1 hour ago, alvin_cheong said:

@dilemmaworker Cool, I'm working in Zhuhai. Maybe could meet up someday?

Sure, let me know if you're stopping by Shenzhen in the future.

hi alvin, I'm in Shenzhen.