SNg
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Posts posted by SNg
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23 hours ago, denimjeans said:
idk looks different to me
edit - wrong model!
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A stretch but
WTB e-j1a sz M or L!
Thanks!
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3 hours ago, beepy said:
LC: Anyone seen these (the 2nd pic...attachments went to the bottom) before? Has the old black tags without the style info. There's a plain spellout logo tab (not the sea air land... but just straight ACRONYM) by the knee, which I'm not sure if I've ever seen...
did stumble across some similar pants without the cargo pockets, so maybe?
Might be the WS-P3a? The pocket layout and cuffs resemble it.
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3 hours ago, Yan90 said:
100-150 usd for making/copying drawings
100 usd for -DS fabric
50-80 usd hardware
150-200 for the work of a tailor
If it's about making a jacket from scratch (patterns, etc...), you might be underestimating how much the tailor is going to cost. It'll also depends on where the tailor is located.
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3sixteen ST-TH1 220x 10th anniversary edition
Haven't posted in superdenim in a minute! Worn for 3 years or so and then on/off for a year. I took these photos last year and haven't gotten around to repairing some of the holes but I hope to wear them again.
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On 1/19/2020 at 11:32 PM, nathan_ said:
Hello
I have a small bit of delamination occurring on my J1A 2.0,and am curious as how I should go about ensuring it doesn't get worse.
I know I can't reverse or fix the delam, just curious how to keep it as is.
Thanks in advance.
Make sure it's clean and wash it when it gets dirty. Here's a video that's been reposted before. If you haven't been washing it regularly, you might actually see some additional delamination after the wash.
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updated
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On 5/30/2019 at 4:59 AM, dreamboatjustsoul said:
Anyone knows the meaning of the KG fit block in J36S and J33 descriptions?
In terms of this, I can understand the "vintage Japanese kimono" part in J33 as its asymmetric zipper close shows but can not see it from J36-S.
It has nothing to do with the asymmetric zipper. The KG fit block references the way kimonos are constructed - rectangular/square cuts of fabric and specifically how the sleeves attach to the main body. If you've held up a jacket that was cut to the KG block, you'll notice that the main back/shoulder panel is cut like a flat piece that looks like an upside down L (kind of like a kimono). I think the techwear-intern mentioned it in his 30 day challenge thread that if you wanted to increase articulation in the shoulders, you should make patterns with the arms up and parallel to the ground. If you've ever seen the back of kimonos laid flat you'll see that the sleeves are parallel to the ground.
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1 minute ago, rommeeeezy said:
Sorry, first post here... But could anyone give me the details on how the customs payment works for the item to be released to you? (Living in U.S.)
I know that there are specific HST codes we could provide UPS to lower the customs hit, but does that happen at the door for delivery, or is that something you have to pay ahead of time by calling in? And do you have to do something in order for them to release the item from customs, or is it just a waiting game?
Just ordered my first piece (J-36S) so I just want to know ahead of time how it works.
You'll have to call them, give the codes, and pay for it before UPS delivers it to you.
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On 9/19/2017 at 10:56 AM, Voyager said:
D17-US
Duty Guide for the United States
Type UPS Gen. 1.1 Style Text
Updated for FW17, this guide corrects a ton of incorrect information I put in last season's guide. This should be more accurate and comprehensive.
HTS Codes supplied by the great @CARLOOA. Many thanks, my friend!If you're ordering anything that has a value over $800 USD, you will need to pay duties before UPS will deliver it to you. That means if you order two items in one shipment that each value $500 USD, you will need to pay duties since the total value of what's in that box is over $800. If you separate those two items into two shipments, you won't need to pay duties. Sometimes separate shipping costs can be much less than duties. Think before you order!
Acronym mothership ships UPS and they use very generic HTS codes so duties end up being very expensive. If you call UPS and notify them that the shipper is using very generic codes and that you have a more specific code, most of the time you will be able to lower the cost of your duties.
The person you call at UPS depends on the last name of the Importer (you).
Here's a list of the people at UPS you should call once you have a tracking number and the tracking indicates that duties are going to need to be paid.
If your name begins with A thru J, call
Tina Griffin
502-485-2788
or her backup (didn't get the name)
502-485-2064If your name begins with K-STL
Jacoby Grant
803-502-6885
Or Linda
803-502-6844If your name begins with STM-Z
Call the Dallas office
972-304-6978Give them your tracking number and tell them that the shipper has specified a very generic HTS code for the product they shipped to you. As a result, the duties are artificially high. Tell them you have a more specific HTS code that more accurately describes what's in the box.
For Goretex or Windstopper jackets (J16-GT, J28-GT, J61-GT, J58-WS, J65-WS)
6201.93.47
Stotz (cotton) jackets (J56-S, J62-S, J64TS-S)
6201.92.47Stotz (cotton) Pants (P23-S, P26-S)
6203.42.45
Schoeller Dryskin pants (P23A-DS, P25H-DS)
6203.43.0300These codes should drop the cost of duties significantly. Once you get your duties lowered, you can call UPS bill pay at 803-502-2525 to pay them.
Good LuckIf you saved $ and would like to tip us
.
CARLOOA - 14whfHMopK1rupE9UM5NEoYndTtH8JXsp9
Me - 1FCywy3DRmbPREEWegkJH3djkxw3X4quPx
For those who need the codes. I've also added some quotes I've found after this post if that helps with other pieces.
"I was able to use 6201.93.47 for the S21-DS and duties dropped from around $290 to around $70." - Voyager
"You could try just 6203.42.0000 or 6203.42.0300. I'm just guessing here. @CARLOOA may need to chime in with his expertise. (referencing p23-s)" - Voyager
Also, not sure if it's outdated yet but the codes are from here - https://outdoorindustry.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/RPO-Paper-8.22.161.pdf
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1 hour ago, purpleDogMan said:
Still WTB：
3a-13ts blk
based in US
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2 hours ago, hentaiyarou69 said:
Is there any reason to prefer the J47A over the J47TS?
You don't have to buy any modulars to have all your pockets.
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2 hours ago, mike.kanashi said:
Great write-up. Question though, how are you finding epic cotton in terms of weather resistance, color-fastness and overall durability? I've heard that it fades stupid quick and that it's subject to fraying/holes.
Asking as I'm somewhat hunting a J1A-S, J1A-E or J28-E, so it would be extremely useful and appreciated to hear more user thoughts about epic.
Thanks in advance.
For a roughly 13 year old jacket, the epic jacket is only epic in name at this point when it comes to weather resistance. I wouldn't go out into anything more than a light shower. In its defense, I haven't gotten around to cleaning it properly but as it stands, it's about as waterproof as a lightweight cotton jacket. I think that's one reason why it's been able to stay dark. It's only started to fray at the cuffs and it's dark-medium grey around high wear areas like the underside of the button snap for the gravity pockets. There are some small holes here and there but it's mostly been localized to around the cuffs. It blocks wind fairly well but in colder weather I would definitely wear a fleece or some sort of insulator underneath. I think back in the day the "ergonomic" design was mostly just a more generous cut with some cool pattern shapes so you can layer a lot under the e-j1a.
That being said, it's a great jacket to wear pretty much any time when it isn't raining heavily. The softness of the epic cotton is nice and it dries fairly quickly in my experience. It actually drapes a little differently because of how soft the fabric is. My main design gripe with the e-j1a is the velcro along the front. It catches on the webbing on the 3a-1 strap and pretty much anything else. Even the webbing that you thread your earphone cables through - it's fuzzy because of the velcro. I think it was a great move on their part to move towards the snaps (which started in 08 for the j1a models I think). I would say that I'm partial to stotz because I like the texture a little more and I actually prefer the stiffness of it (even though I do like the softness of epic). Just a personal thing.
I would really love to see a j1a-s update with the newer cut and a decked out flak pocket like it is on the older j1a iterations. But I don't think they would because that inner zip is now an opening for your insulator's chest pocket.
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- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Been waiting a while and I was finally able to get some time to do this. It's cool seeing the differences between generations of these models and how they've improved (and sometimes even areas where they don't).
But basically it's just plain fun to nerd out.
Differences in the in the sleeve patterns. The e-J1a is a size L and the J1ts-s is an XL for reference. You'll notice how the e-j1a actually has a baggier sleeve despite being a smaller size. They have a really similar shape which is a nice carry over from one iteration to the next. Of course, the pocket addition is definitely one of the more noticeable changes.
I really like seeing the differences between how the underarm was patterned. It's a little hard to see but the e-j1a was a lot simpler than the j1ts-s. This is one of my favorite parts of the jacket because it's so functional. It's a noticeable different when you're wearing the jacket and you can see how the jacket is pulling as you move your arms around. The short sleeve is also constructed differently - the e-j1a is literally a short sleeve wrapped around the longer sleeve while the j1ts-s is patterned and sewn into the longer sleeve.
Here's a shot of the gravity pockets of the j1ts-s and the e-j1a. It's kind of hard to see but the e-j1a is completely hidden and you can only access it from the cuff. The j1ts-s' pocket placement is a little weird imo because when your arms are at your side they warp the fabric a little around the forearm (because of the stiffness of the zipper) and it ends up looking a little weird.
I was waiting for the laundry machine to rinse out any leftover detergent and I realized that I could throw in the j47a-gt for a comparison as well. Sorry for the dark images! Here are some shots of the underarm and of the shoulder. The e-j1a and j1ts-s have really simple shoulder lines but the j47a does something it a little differently. I think of the zippered versions of the gravity pockets I prefer the placement of the j47a the most - it's closer to the back of the forearm so it doesn't mess with the shape of the sleeve too much. But sometimes when I'm walking the zipper tab flips up and down as it catches the side seam of the jacket. So functionally, I think I prefer the hidden gravity pockets of the e-j1a because it's the least obtrusive.
These are just some shots of some fun details that I really like on the e-j1a. The flak pocket is so over the top and definitely makes it the most used pocket on the entire jacket. I think there are technically four pockets in that area - main flak pocket, phone pocket, open side entry pocket (don't know how else to describe this one), and another side entry pocket with a zipper. Also the webbing with slits cut into it for your headphones (which I never use because it's such a hassle to thread them through).
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On 4/11/2018 at 6:53 PM, Z-11 said:
I agree with AvantSol. I have three different pairs of p23 in different sizes and materials. p23-s (S) looks good, but they are not very convenient (tensed in calves), p23ts-ch (XL) are long enough and wide. p23a-ds (L) are perfect.
Also I had p10ts-ds (L) and they were long. Stretched knees below the knees looked particularly ugly. Surprisingly, but the same size in p10a-s (L) looks good.PS I'm 5'11"
Is this the post that you guys were referring to?
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1 hour ago, lopiteaux said:
I have a 3A-1 in L2 from 15/16, and so far it's held up beautifully against light-medium rains, with no visible damage.
I also have a 5TS in L1 from 13/14 with a couple of years' wear on it, and the material is starting to age rapidly, so I'd expect these to have a little less resistance. I might be wrong though.
I have the 3a-1 L2 from that random restock in spring 2017(?) and it's done well in the light/medium showers. A little water does get in sometimes though but it doesn't bother me too much. I have the 5ts in grey laminate and it's survived light showers despite the laminate peeling everywhere.
Thought I'd also add that one of the zipper pulls on my 3a-1 broke last week. Didn't last as long as I thought it would but luckily I had a hardware piece from work that I clipped into the zipper bale.
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1 hour ago, esper said:
thanks for the help! Why they would style them like that is completely beyond me i need my ankles to be w a r m
It's probably because they went with the waist size that fit the model. It also looks like the cuff of the second layer was pulled up which is also an odd choice. The sizing looks similar on notre but with the cuff pulled down - https://www.notre-shop.com/collections/acronym/products/p23a-s-in-raf-green
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21 hours ago, Bigyen said:
Delamintaion Update
Nothing back from ACR proper. The boss tweeted back and said the fix would be a tedious job of cutting out the delamination and applying seem tape. I'm thinking about grabbing some Gear Aid Gore-tex patches, cutting out the delamination and applying them to the inside of the jacket, and then seam taping off the edges of the patches. I know these patches are meant to go on the outside of a shell, but it seems easier to apply 4x6" patches instead of small strips of seem tape.
Thoughts?
Alternatively, you can also send it to http://rainypass.com/repair-services/ for repairs. Though it'll probably be more noticeable than patching the interior with a patch since it seems like they might cut out the affected area.
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If anyone is in NYC, Kith still has a black J1ts-S in size M along with some p10a's. There's also a duo tone in the display case in (I think) a size M. The j1ts-S is definitely more expensive than from other retailers ($1450).
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Haven't been updating for a few months (3 months since the last) as I was caught up with work/college apps/and a Nudie Contest that I entered late.
But they will be up soon!
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Shucks! Haven't posted an update in a while...going to post some sometime this week hopefully!
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Just a small update on the fit. Haven't really gotten time to sit down and take some proper photos due to college apps!
This was actually a part of a set of 5 photos I had to take for a design project for CMU.
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Went to my friend's house and decided to finally take some update photos.
Samurai 710s at 8 months!
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Went to my friend's house and decided to finally take some update photos.
Samurai 710s at 8 months!
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Acronym.
in supertechwear
Posted
The "A" never meant removable cuffs. You can check out these styles that use a similar naming scheme without having removable cuffs.
P10 - P10 A
P23 - P23A
P24 - P24A