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xchen

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  1. An old post from Kiya where he explains it much better than I could.

    Another great thread...

    A few quick notes on the differences.. I can very easily tell the difference between denim that has and has not been sanforized.

    During the process of which the denim goes through, the fabric is put under extreme pressure and therefore is compressed.

    This compressed nature is partially the reason Imperial, Nudies, Iron Heart, and APC have a slight sheen to them. And is the same reason that Flat Head, Real McCoy's, and Sugarcane do NOT have a sheen.

    Keep in mind, what i just said is from personal experience and being around denim for years, whether or not it's scientifically true is up for discussion.

    I prefer non-saforized denim for a variety of reasons.. a few being that i believe the fading on non-sanforized denim is more interesting, the post soak hue of indigo on the denim is far deeper on non-saforized denim, and i like the ritual of soaking/measuring/watching closing before my initial wear of a new pair.

    I'm sure that if you had 2 rolls of identical fabric and put one through a sanforization process you'd see the characteristics Kiya describes more obviously.

    I thought cone mills was a good company to compare Sanforized vs unsanforized because even though they produce hundreds of varieties of denim there seem to be more similarities than differences in the characteristics of the various white oak denims I've personally handled.

  2. other than the fact they are simply 2 different denims?

    Precisely that. There's a certain look to a faded Sanforized denim. I'm not sure how to describe it but it's just different. If I can come up with a picture that shows what I'm talking about I will post back.

  3. I understand there won't be any shrinkage but unsanforized denim ages differently than sanforized. Already breaking in a pair of sanforized cone RRLs so trying to go for some variety. Appreciate everyone's info.

  4. is there any difference in denim used between '47 501 rigid and '47 501 rough rinse? happened upon a few pairs of rough rinse at deep discount and was wondering why the retail price difference between the two exists if everything is the same except the one wash process.

  5. What he probably was referring to was the various generations that RRL has gone through. In this case he makes a good point as things with RRL tend to be cyclical. However in this case I think the cycle just started about a year ago so some time may pass before we see major changes, especially if profitability ticks up.

  6. Prob not the icon jeans, those will be cone for some years to come. However seasonal and washes will still be done in fabrics from all over, including Japan.

    By icon I'm just referring to the standard 5 pocket jeans.

  7. I recently picked up the Slim-Fit Rigid denim. Inside the pockets it says that they are made of Japanese woven selvedge denim. Anyone know where they get the denim from?

    Not sure, but you bought old stock. They've since switched to American denim from cone mills but a lot of people have been trying to seek out the old Japanese stock. Stores carry the American denim, but they were clearing some Japanese out on the online shop for others who might be looking to get some. Can't guarantee you'll get the old stock so YMMV.

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