familyman

Saddle shoes are traditionally two toned, and also pretty classic. I bought the AF65, which are two tone black and cigar saddle shoes. They look pretty classic with a pair of tan slacks and a polo shirt... not that I wear polo shirts though.

Funny you mention that, I was just looking at a pair of saddles on ebay this morning and thinking that I might like a pair.

Saddles and spectators are the two shoes that are very traditional and two toned so I revise my earlier statements.

I've always wanted a pair of black and white saddles with the red rubber sole. Very 50's. Not sure if I could really pull it off but I've thought they were cool since about 3rd grade when they made a brief comeback. Of course I didn't have any but they were still cool.

I just wonder if the 2 tone thing will get old quickly... It's not classic right?

Certainly not classic. It's had it's moments and right now high end shoes are getting pretty adventureous and that's why you're starting to see things like this. They're cool, but they might become the square toes of the future?

Do you need a black shoe or will a black boot do? With jeans I always think a boot is better than a shoe. I'm not sure why but I do. Black captoe is one way to go. Nothing is more classic and can go with everything from jeans to a full on suit and tie. A black captoe has been in style for 100 years. I like this Alden but there are plenty of options out there.

http://www.theshoemart.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?&vendor=ALD&template=men&browse_vendor=1&category=MDB&item=ALD_m_Cap_Toe_Boot_Calfskin&ps=4&start=2&rpro=

Penny loafers descend from Norwegian fishing shoes. They were introduced to the US by Bass in the early 1900's and were really adopted in the 40's and 50's. Lots of pictures from the 50's show teens wearing either penny loafers or saddle shoes. They were (and still are) a part of the trad uniform. Witness the $500 cordovan penny loafers that Alden makes. They were also a staple of the preppy wardrobe in the 80's. Word is that they only have small areas where they are really appropriate in business and are considered a 'casual' shoe for old guys.

With denim, a slight turnup and white socks you have a classic 50's look. With khakis and a polo and no socks you're bleeding preppy. Put them on with bermudas and a florida tee and line up to play shuffle board.

I don't ever see them on anyone my age (30) or younger. It makes them a bit of an oddity and I like that. I wear mine with everything from sport coat and khakis to jeans and a tee.

Your wardrobe is heavy on the workwear and they probalby won't work with a lot of that, but when it gets sunny and you just throw on a pair of jeans and a tee or a polo, they might fit the bill.

worth to get for 12 $?

For $12, yea. You might be a penny loafer guy, you might not. Hard to tell until you have a pair and see how they work with your stuff. $12 is worth it if you just end up saying 'fuck, I can't rock the pennies' when you're done. Then you know, even when you see a spectacular deal on pennies on sale from $200 down to $50, you don't want them. Thifting something that you think you might want is a great way to test the waters.

I love pennies. Love 'em. Wouldn't have known that if I didn't thrift a pair for $8.

Those are very cool shoes. The general design of the shoe is pretty informal and the two tone makes it even more so. It's a lot of money for a casual shoe and it's a hell of a shoe for casual situations. It's cool but there are a bunch of other cordovan shoes that would be more appropriate for basically anything.

Can't wear boots all the time, especially in the Texas heat.

My Quoddy mocassin shoes finally arrived today. Outstanding shoes for what they are. Hand sewn in Maine by a very small family company. Instantly comfortable.

Bill, those are great looking Wescos. They're also much better looking cleaned and taken care of. There's so many boots I want but I'm basically off pants for the summer. I need to wait for fall I guess.

I honestly don't think those Varvatos are going to work for you like that. Keep looking, the right boot is out there.

For the technical boot people, would there be a problem replacing the thick rubber sole on the Frye with a much thinner piece? Something like a Topy? It might solve the chunky problem. You'd have to thin down the heel as well to keep the balance but if you can have a pair of redwings go from a rubber sole to a leateher sole (which happened a long way back in this thread if I remember correctly) it seems like the Frye's could undergo similar surgery.

Where do you go from there LL? I can see a place for a true dress boot in the collection. Perhaps a captoe?

I'm going to miss the poppy flower photos, great stuff.

LL - great post and great pictures as always. I love the 1911's but now I'm just way too shy about the sizing to order a pair. I'll just live the boots through your pictures.

I wasn't aware that you were in a 'shoot back' type of situation. I'm not sure why but I had the impression that you were in one of those unarmed and flying for peaceful reasons so don't shoot at us sort of things. Not that it's any safer either way. Keep being careful man.

talking about collections, I just got my 6th pair of Red wings.

Feels like I should branch out!

Which boots do you feel are "must haves"?

like:

Redwing - 875 and..

Alden - Indy and..

You should have somebody make you a pair of boots. Whether Whites or Russell or somebody else who takes two tracings and a pile of measurements and makes you a pair of boots just the way you want them. The leather you want, the soles you want, everything. Lots of options out there.

It's a process, it takes a loooonnnggg time and you get a damn nice pair of boots that really fit when you're done.

http://www.boot.com/index.html#BootMenu

Great site that I just found. Their FAQ is awesome, great info like -

How do I get the ankle to crease nicely?

When you get a new pair of pull-on boots, such as the Dehner Motor Patrol boots, Wesco Boss Engineer boots or Harness boots you can train the ankles to crease nicely. It's best to do this when your boots are new and before you've worn them too much.

The goal is to make the crease at the ankle break straight across the front and back rather than at an angle. The boots will look better and may be more comfortable. When this is done correctly, the sides of the boots near your ankle bone will have a classic "dimple". The picture of the Wesco Boss boot on the right shows how this looks. The Dehner boots will also have a dimple, but it won't be as prominent because the ankle lining is more supple.

Wesco boots with the leather lining will end up with the correct front and back crease, but the dimple won't develop because the leather is so thick. This "dimple" which looks like a leather dice cup is what gave the German infantry boots the name "Knobelbecher" (dice cup) because they would develop that characteristic dimple when broken in.

How to train your boots...

You can do this while sitting on the couch watching the news... takes about 5 to 10 minutes. Put your hand down into the boot and slowly flex the shaft forward and backwards. Use your fingers on the inside to pinch the crease in the front and back of the ankles. Train that fold so that it goes more or less horizontally across the front and back of the ankles. Left to their own devices boots sometimes develop a crease which is a bit crooked.

The technique is to slowly start flexing... note where the boot wants to crease... if it isn't creasing straight across... then reduce the flex... pinch the boots on the inside as you flex to force the shaft to crease in the correct spot.

Once you have the creases working in the correct spot then spend some time flexing the shafts forward and backwards by hand to set the crease in place.

When you've done it correctly there will be a characteristic "dimple" on each ankle and gentle horizontal creases at the front and back of the upper ankle area.

Greg - I love Ian's shoelace site. His secure knot changed my life. I haven't had a pair of and sort of shoes or boots come untied since I started using it, no matter what the lace material. http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/secureknot.htm

The Dehner paddock boots are a great looking basic captoe boot which is something I've been thinking about. Custom made in tan calf for $375 sounds like a great deal. The lace tanker would also be a really interesting makeup in brown or tan. Very classic military boot style in a non convenional and well ageing leather. I'm very interested in trying a pair.

miz - think of those done up in tan calf. What an interesting boot that would make. God that would be cool.

Greg, thanks so much for that list. I'm still working my way through there but I've become captivated by Dehner. Then have quite a few styles (mostly riding and military) and a fascinating history dating back to 1870.

One boot I thought was really cool was this:

Dehner's Alert Boots

This style was designed by Dehner's D.D. Ketzler for Air Force General Curtis LeMay. The General, then Commander of the Strategic Air Command in Omaha, wanted a boot the Alert crews could get on easily and quickly. The crews would sleep in the jump suits, the general told him, but not their boots. This style was also the basis for the first space boots ordered by NASA in 1962. With slight alterations, these boots were used on the first three manned space flights.

When you wear Dehners, who knows how far you'll go!

I used to smash the speed laces flat on my work boots during the day. Then when I'd go to unlace them I couldn't get the lace out and I'd have to fight with it and I'd end up looking like a 4 year old that can't figure out how to untie their shoes. The most fun was when I'd do it on one foot. Sometimes I'd take my boots off outside and leave them there for the night. So I'd take one off and be standing there like a stork on one foot unlacing the other before stepping on the porch and I'd get stuck and end up wobbling back and forth like a drunk stork swearing until I finally yanked the lace free. I'm still not sure what I did to smash them shut but about once every two weeks it happened. Stupid speed laces.

I think russells are an incredible value. If I am reading their catalog correctly, they will do custom made shoes to your own measurements for around $300-400.

Sort of. They have about a zillion different lasts that can accomodate basically any foot that you can trace. If you have different sized feet they make different sized boots. If you need extra space for bunions or something they can do that. If in fact they don't have a last that will fit your feet then they will make one but they've been making boots for so long that doesn't happen much from my understanding. Other than that they are custom. You start with a basic pattern and you can change leathers and height and soles and a lot of details. I do think they are a great boot and a great value, even more if you have wierd feet. I love mine, supremely comfortable.

That's a damn nice boot Greg.

I was just thinking, is there a list of the remaining great Ameircan shoe makers? Alden, Allen Edmonds, Frye, Whites, Russell, Red Wing.... who else? (not the cowboy boot makers, that's a very long list) I'm drawn to the idea of collecting at least one shoe/boot from all of them that I can.

Greg - I can see how those would look horrible if you're used to and happy with looking down on your feet and seeing a pair of Skyes. I do like them a lot though. They have a different feel from a different era. Nothing dress about them at all despite their name. Those are straight up work boots. It's jeans and workwear with those.

I don't suppose you could indulge me and post them next to the Skyes? It would be interesting to see them right up close to each other.

A pair of Whites may be in my future yet. I can certainly see a place for them, maybe even more so than some of the really nice countrty boots.

Thanks for sharing.

So.... Greg.... when you say pictures tonight, is it tonight yet? I'm kind of eagerly awaiting them. Please?

rnrswitch - great looking boots. All the indy's around here just look so good.

Greg - Those are beautiful. I'm feeling the need to own another pair of brogued boots. Can't wait for the whites to show up. You need to post a boot family picture when that happens.

Those are yummy.

Cordovan Indy's are are supposed to be coming in the fall. After that I don't know, I might have Russell make me a pair of penny loafers or I might think about another brogued boot of some sort.

Leica, love the shot of the Huey. They're such cool helicopters to ride in, such a different feel from a 'modern' helicopter. Everybody should ride in a huey at least once.

those are nice. af72s right?in #8

No, the af72 is on the barrie last and has a commando sole. I'm not sure of the model designation of these but they're on the plaza last, have a double oak sole and are cigar shell. They're from http://www.leathersoulhawaii.com/ and are a special makeup for them. The af72 is a very nice boot as well, just a little different.

One, three & five! Sunny & 75. Life IS fine with a nice combo like that.

Cheers!

(& g'nite, given our time zone differences)

Sleep well and dream of days flying with noone shooting at you.

Miz - I do love my life.