mizanation

oiabwzi tg76. wru xio ylugiy ek Vampyrvargfesten. jw twr sxwo lxtyfexg lcwry fez?

ofly'k yfi exyia wx Vampyrvargfesten?

e flvi ciix gwxi kw awxg e jwx'y sxwo ofly yfi hrbs ek gwexg wx...

ofw uizlexk wh yfi wuegexla buio???

e flvi ciix gwxi kw awxg.

ek DIAMONDS kyeaa l ceybf???

qiuflqk Vampyrvargfesten xiijk kwzi lyyixyewx???

tired of this....

Who of the dozens want to start a new project ?

ONLY IF IT'S EVISU!!! just kidding.

i'm down but unfortunately, i have also gained a ton of weight. i will probably sit out of the next world tour.

HOWEVER, i can talk to kuniyoshi-san about a pair of custom made jeans. also, i can have kamida-san make a custom made wallet to go with those jeans...

anyways, just a suggestion.

pizza shop back in business. try our new sauce.

*coughs discreetly

*clears throat*

: phlegm :

*hocks loudly*

does kuniyoshi-san do any wholesale production?

he can't do huge numbers, but he can do orders up to a couple hundred. he still sews each one, but he will have the fabric cut at another factory.

Yeah, but what about a large group buy for a contest. Each picks the cut and the denim. In the end kuniyoshi gets pics of his jeans after a year of hard wear and some much deserved attention. Not that miz hasn't already done him a great service showcasing his skillz.

if you guys want to do a contest, i'm sure he will we be down.

I have no idea how I missed this thread..just read every page..amazing pictures - amazing thread..hope life is good, miz

life is great, beats! having fun....

+1

hey Miz, you think Kuniyoshi-san may know Ryo and Hiro or have heard of Ooe Yofukuten...

they seem to do similar stuff, imagine the three of them hooking up for a collab

i asked him about ooe yofukuten and he did not know about them.

some people have ordered pairs. they are being worked on now.

here's an update, kuniyoshi-san has a new slim pattern that is based on a very popular slim jean that is based on another very popular slim jean. anyways, you get the picture. he is making prototypes now.

the jeans have not changed much to be honest. i guess i'm not a hard wearer.

the first wash usually has the most drastic shrinkage. kuniyoshi-san said that the particular denim he uses does most of its shrinking during the first wash. some denims take longer to shrink.

i am back from tokyo and paris. had an incredible time!

Miz, if we're in the market for a pair can we PM you, or would you rather we wait til the website is up?

no, you can go ahead and pm me. the website is going to take a little bit of time, so pm'ing is going to be the way to go for now.

paris only. and a little bit outside paris.

so, i'm in paris now. the jeans are great. the denim is quite rigid and creases very well. also, they are very, very dark. the surface is generally smooth with a bit of fuzziness. i can see why kuniyoshi-san picked this particular fabric. reminds me of the warehouse 1000XX denim, which is one of my favorites.

the more i look at these jeans, the more i see that every stitch is perfectly in place. every detail is slowly revealing itself as the jeans get more wear. i am appreciating little things already, like the extra room he adds for the front pockets. no more bleeding knuckles!

also, i really like that the inside pant seam is lap felled on the inside but has the appearance of having one single stitch on the outside. i dig the simple aesthetic of the single stitch and the clean support of the lap felling.

also, the length of the jeans is perfect. this is the first pair of jeans that i've had hemmed after washing and i am an advocate now. before, i would err on the long side with raw jeans and would have jeans that were a little too long. with this pair, since they were already washed once, all kuniyoshi-san has to calculate is the amount that creasing would shorten the leg.

so, pretty satisfied so far! i will be back in okinawa in about a week and a half. i will be posting some wear pics occassionally.

Looking at these again, what these remind me most of are 45rpm's, think it's the shape of the backpockets combined with the "plain-ness" and the crumbled/washed look...

good observation...

that was a different pair of jeans i believe

yeah, i decided not to go with any back pocket stitching this time. well, really, i didn't have time. i plan on getting a few more jeans made by him so i will definitely do the stitching next time.

only negative is I hope this isn't the end to your updates on kuniyoshi-san.

no, i'm planning on documenting any new projects he works on.

or you will miss all the heavenly whiskers

the surface is fine and powdery

jeans is blue.

about the raised belt loops, i am not sure if they were an "accidental" feature on the old levi's, or if it was done on purpose. i'm not even sure if kuniyoshi-san knows what the deal is with this. anyways, they're just belt loops. i like the raised ones because they look cooler.

lots of questions here.

about the diagonal belt loop on the back. many of the old jeans had a diagonal belt loop because if you put the belt loop straight on the seam, the machine has to go through a lot of material. i had him do this to give it a little vintage flava. you know how i do.

2 questions.

when hemming, do we know if BiG reinforces the seam and puts a brake in the chain stitch?

2nd, can you ask Kuniyoshi-san if there is a certain brand he feels is superior or even a certain pair, in terms of getting all the details right.

DOMO!

reinforcing the seam is a detail that probably doesn't make that much of a difference--since the chainstitch will seal the seam together. however, it's something kuniyoshi-san does anyways. gordon puts a brake in the chainstitch by tying a knot on the stitch. kuniyoshi-san says both ways are acceptable (tying a knot or cutting the stitch). he cuts the stitch because it saves on time, but both ways achieve the same thing.

Most fascinating and interesting thread I've ever read on sufu, Miz.

May I ask what brand of jeans Kuniyoshi-san wears when not his own brand?

he hasn't bought a pair of jeans in over 10 years. but, since he was making some of the top brands, you could say that he has worn many brands, along with his own brand of jeans.

And considering the fact that these could be customized jeans for online orders, are there other brands that provide similar cuts to his that we can gauge? Or did he really customize your pair by taking your measurements?

he has two cuts right now, a regular straight cut and a slim cut. the slim cut was too tight for me in the thighs. and the regular straight was somewhat baggy. but, since i asked for lap felled seams, it slims the jeans a little, since his pattern is for overlocked seams. so, the jeans are in between a regular straight fit and a slim fit.

The jeans appear to have been soaked here. Didn't see any info about the soak though. Not that the soak info on your custom pair of jeans is relevant to most of us, but for the sake of documenting every step of making your jeans, how were these soaked? Does kuniyoshi-san soak all of his jeans after he's finished making them (the unsanforized ones, at least), or does he leave some of them raw?

You mentioned that kuniyoshi-san doesn't find a significant difference in hemming pre- or post-soak, with respect to roping. It appears like he hemmed them after they were soaked; is this his preference so that the final hemmed length is exact?

ok, after he makes the jeans, he gives it a temporary chainstitched hem. he does this even though he knows he will cut it off later because he doesn't want the pant legs to unravel. then, he just throws them in the washing machine without soap. japanese washing machines usually do not have an agitator, so they are a little easier on the fabric. after he washes the fabric, he hang dries outside. after they are dry, he takes measurements, then hems the jeans.

he one-washes almost all his jeans. but he will keep them raw if someone wants them raw. most of his customers prefer a having more accuracy on the hem.

first time wearing my new jeans. they still have some shrinking to do, but the fit is exactly what i wanted. not too tight, not too loose.

then, he cuts any stray threads.

after he's done chainstitching the hem, he likes to iron the selvage seam down. after the first wash, the seams are usually crumpled up.

ironing.

after the brake has been put in, even if he pulls on the end of the chainstitch, the stitch doesn't unravel.

to prevent this, kuniyoshi-san puts in what he calls a "brake." he cuts the stitch at a certain area and pulls one of the threads through a loop--or something like that. anyways, the result is that the chainstitch will not come undone, even when you pull on it hard.

here, he is putting in the brake:

after he's done, he does another step.

the problem with a chainstitch is that if there is a cut in the stitch, the whole stitch can come undone with one pull.

to demonstrate this, he cut the chainstitch and pulled on the thread which quickly unraveled the chainstitch.