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LFC4ever

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Posts posted by LFC4ever

  1. -THE TWELVE POINTS OF DIFFERENTIATION-

    HAND SIGNED, NUMBERED AND DATED BY THE OWNER/OPERATORS OF JACK/KNIFE

    CONSTRUCTION:

    THE HEAD OF THE TOP USA DENIM FACTORY REFERS TO JACK/KNIFE AS THE GOLD STANDARD OF CONSTRUCTION - A COMPLIMENT WE ARE PROUD TO UPHOLD. Our construction process is more than 3x as complex as the industry standard to produce. Though production is slower than most, the end result is a jean that will last as long as you need. 

    IMG_3126.JPGIMG_3127.JPGIMG_3125.JPG
     
    1.) The Western Pocket

    One of the standout details of our jean is the shape of our "western pockets." An idea that we were originally inspired by from spending time with archival denim pants from the 1800's. The idea is simple: by scooping the pockets up instead of down (as modern jeans do), the wearer is able to reach in out of the pocket without any restriction, even when in the seated position. Everyone that has converted to the western pocket prefers the functionality of this design features to that of the standard jean pocket. 

    IMG_3091.JPG
    2.) Lockstitch Seam Construction

    100% lockstitch fully finished seam construction (please contact us if you ever find another jean that can boast the same).

    IMG_3099.JPGIMG_3100.JPG
     
    4.) Duck Canvas Linings

    Double layered Duck Canvas reinforced pockets for extra durability and protections from wear and tear. Most companies never line their pockets, and our jean is one of the only ones available with 100% cotton pocket bags. 

    IMG_3102.JPGIMG_3103.JPG
     
    6.) Beltloop Reinforcements 

    Fully finished belt loops with signature Z-stitch detail. The average manufacturer only uses ~10 bartack stitches to attach beltloops to a jean, we use 90 lockstitch lines to secure ours. 

  2. Hi mpp, thanks, I don't think many people take notice of my ramblings...

    I'm in the pub posting from my phone, sorry can't link as normal ...

    Anyway, I am a committed fan of the munson last and use its qualities as a yardstick against which I compare any footwear i look at.. anatomical correctness e.g. medial metatarsal inflare etc

    If you're interested, you might want to download a copy of Edward Munsons book, 'the soldiers foot and the military shoe'. if i've linked it right, you can get copy here;

    https://archive.org/details/soldiersfootmili00munsrich

    Well worth reading.

    I've seen the RW 8011 and 8012, but only in D width, really I'd be looking at E or possibly EE.

    One thing to consider regarding the Munson, having been developed under taxpayer dollars it's in the public domain meaning its open to reproduction. You can even buy a pair of lasts, the better come from J&V in the US. I've tried Buzz Ricksons and wasn't convinced they got it right, I've also had the MASH version which was pretty similar yet neither really fit as my current munson boots in the same size.

    One drawback of the last is the high inside cone and wide island and cuboid, it doesnt work well on low shoes. Designed for boots that lace tight, and for accomdating heavy load!

    HH Brown (Corcoran) still use it now for custom builds e.g. Wwii impressions and doursoux. They have it numbered though, the 975.

    Cheers

    Fucking hell. That was from the pub?
  3. I've actually bought some real mccoy from Superdenim and actually I wouldn't mind paying 20pc extra to cover the VAT they have to charge (though often you have to pay Japanese tax even though it's being exported) for the local service. It's when it hits 60 PC or more I just think forget it. Again not the distributors fault. I hope the UK Real Mccoy store succeeds by selling a wide and quality range at a price that is at least within range of the Japanese pricing allowing for Vat at 20 pc. The fact it's bricks and mortar in Soho shouldn't matter as I believe Tokyo has relatively high real estate costs ( he said with no hint of irony). Shipping costs totally irrelevant imo, per item won't be more than a few quid and the brand should absorb. And just to make it clear I really appreciate BIG and Self Edge have bought more stuff than I can wear from them but I do think they're in some way being given a mountain to climb by some of these brands.

    Nb I have found that if a certain site says they have a discount but it excludes RM it er actually doesn't exclude RM.

  4. And Kapital. Got a very aggressive reaction when I pointed this out a year ago.

    Thing is this market segmentation and control usually attempted when a brand wants to move from "cult" or niche to mainstream global rarely works. I mean all you do is piss off the core base and rely then on marketing to the new segment and getting them to pay inflated prices. Which essentially means you're selling fashion and restricted exclusivity more than anything else and that's not a basis for longer term success. In fact it would put me off the brand. More than ever markets are global and controlling pricing by geography is outdated and detrimental to the brand unless you just want to squeeze short term profits at the expense of longer term market share. I believe the local distributors deserve the opportunity to demonstrate local value add on their own terms why not give them a better deal and allow them to compete effectively in their local markets and demonstrate their customer service and expand that way instead of his short term squeeze every penny out of the consumer approach. And in this instance it's the brands and manufacturers who are at fault.

  5. Without wanting to sound too gushing, Cultizm went out of their way to make sure I got the right fit (notwithstanding the US/UK sizing on the site). They have them measured against foot dimensions and advised to go on that rather than: "I'm a nine so I'm a US10..." 

     

    Totally agree that Viberg and its retailers' ambivalence doesn't reflect well on them. If its that difficult perhaps they should still be offering individual custom orders? 

    I wish Viberg still did custom orders. I wonder what direction they are headed now, maybe wanting to be a quality fashion brand with bigger distribution and turnover rather than a bespoke "cult" boot provider. Still don't understand why they can't put a guide to  last types and the impact on sizing on their website, seems a pretty simple yet effective way to help people choose the right size and type of boot. I mean they have this information readily available don't they?!!!!!!!

  6. OK I think I can help. Viberg don't officially subscribe to the UK sizing system but because the shoes  are based on old military/imdustrial lasts which assumed thick socks etc the effect is the same. If you are a US 12 you will take a Viberg 11 in I believe all lasts except the 2030. The 2030 is particularly shallow in the toe box so most  people will have to go up half a size in this last.I find it staggering that for a company and dealers who purport to be selling a premium handcrafted boot that there is not more effort put into clarifying sizing particularly given the variation and impact of different lasts. Viberg themselves have had a "coming soon" section on this on their website for months which is unforgivable. And I speak as someone who owns 6 pairs of their boots. Would have been 7 except the 2030 last pair I got from Superdenim.co.uk don't fit "true to  size" they're extremely shallow and narrow so I had to sell on ebay as I'd already worn them - first pair I bought thought I was wrng the dealer must be right. They're not.Interestingly I advised Viberg of this (they know this boot fits small) and Superdenim have now revised their sizing advice. Unfortunately they have done it for a different last and kept the advice for the 2030 last as fits true to size, consequently getting sizing wrong on 2 lasts now. Not sure why I bothered to be honest, but if I was Viberg I'd be thinking seriously about the service I provide customers and where I want to be in 5 years time........  

  7. This from Yuichi

    S510OG16oz are made with special dyed cotton denim.
    The expensive price is because of special fabric and special parts like buttons and rivets.

    60000 yen

  8. I have quite a few pairs of new Valencia st 501xx, 551ZXX, 201, some 33's and some 505's and I think of them as "better" but probably only because they're more rare and I bought them from new and have kept them in my collection till they're almost true vintage! In reality they're probably no better than the current crop.

  9. " just don't see how people can be half way on things like this. Either you are totally against killing animals or you are not...... But I do agree with not killing endangered species. "

    So is this principle or preservation?

    Also I would suggest there is quite a significant difference between killing animals humanely to meet perceived need and purpose as opposed to gratification and boosting one's ego.

  10. Interested you got these - I wanted the cinchback but they were really short got this from Universal:

     

    Yes, they are quite short because they are made for the Japanese market currently as they are not really exporting to other markets.
     
    One of our colleagues wears them and has washed them and thinks they shrink about an inch in the waist and a couple of inches in the length - yes this could be a problem!
     
    inside leg was 82.5 cm in raw state on cinchback shorter on others (79cm)

     

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