Tyler

Oops - sorry if this is in the wrong place.

So is a S a small? I can only find Junya Watanabe jackets listed in sizes SS or S. Do they not come in more than two sizes?!

Thanks for all your help

T

Hello

I am wondering if anyone can decipher Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons sizing for me. Do the jackets just come in two sizes - S and SS? I am confused as here in the UK a S is a size small. But is this a large in Comme des Garcons? I am wondering whether SS is super small and S is a small or what? Do they do a SS, S, M and then L or is it just SS for small and S for large?

You can see why I might be confused! Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

T

Hi Freshstrokes

I have to say if you can't even do your jeans up or if buttons are popping open then they are too tight. I mean come on! Diors stretch but not by THAT much and when you wash them they'll just shrink back down. Most dry Dior denim is actually pre-washed (but nobody here ever tells you that or seems to be aware of it) and so it's not like buying a pair of dry Levi's where you should size up a couple because of shrinkage. You won't get any more shrinkage on a pair of raw Dior jeans than if you'd bought a washed pair. 'fraid it's true.

If I were you I'd send those back sharpish and go and buy a pair of jeans that actually fit.

Best wishes

T

Blimey - cheer up Beautiful Stranger it's new year

If you are still in a quandary I would go with the suit everytime. It's impossible to be overdressed for an interview (unless you go in a tux of course.)

It might be cool to be causal once you work there but a suit shows that you look professional when required and have made an effort. Even if everyone who works there is in jeans I think a suit is the way to go in an interview situation. Just as you'd wear one if you were trying to close down a really important PR client at board level.

Go with the suit

T

I agree with Felix - wear whatever will make you feel most comfortable and confident. That's the most important thing in an interview.

Good luck

T

Hi

I know you've said you don't want "stupid logos" on the shirt but I can honestly recommend Ralph Lauren button down shirts although they do have the polo logo on the shirt (it's quite small if that's any consolation)

The custom fit button downs are cut slim and fit me better than any other I've tried and I like a slim fit and I think they'd be perfect for your height too.

Maybe worth a look

T

Here's a link if you haven't found them...

Alden of Carmel

Hey Tyler, I still want to see pics of those Crockett & Jones you picked up.

Hey Calden

Sorry - have been absolutely paranoid about posting in this part of the forum since my attempt of last week (which I have to say genuinely put me off from posting again) so I have just been lurking here and contributing to other forums. But I am actually wearing the Crockett and Jones boots today and I love 'em so am pleased you'd still like to see a pic. I'll take one when I get home and definitely post it later.

Best wishes

T

As far as I am aware there is no such thing as a 17 - the 17 is the 19 but in a waist size below 30 they measure 17 (if that makes sense?!)

So really there is only a 19 or a 21.

Personally I prefer the 21 as they are more versatile

T

Hi

I was looking for a slim black trench for ages and ages and finally found one in Acquascutum. Don't know if that helps but as part of their "collection" they do a slim fit single breast trench that is absolutely gorgeous and is beautifully made and fitted.

Best wishes

T

Hey

You guys are absolutely right - I should learn more about machine washable boots before I open my gob.

My bad.

And Fuuma - if you do decide to sell your Carpe Diems as long as they come with machine washing instructions for me to follow, I'll take 'em! Can I still switch to 30?

Can't we get back to this poor guy's original question - what boots would you guys (Fuuma and Tangerine) recommend? Am genuinely interested - this was the point of the thread in the 1st place wasn't it?

T

Oh gahd - this is what gives fashion a bad name. My only point here was to make an honest opinion about what boots someone might like to try. I didn't think that would start such a debate or that my posts would be pored over with a magnifying glass.

Wasn't expecting top be "called" over saying - why don't you try some quality benchmade shoes and then saying how much I love quality clothes.

Blimey!

But see that you are selling stuff here including products by Carpe Diem so perhaps you have more of an "investment' in these posts than I do.

If anyone who reads my posts wants to check out my honest opinions that's cool by me - if not I guess they can always buy from you right?

Er...am not entirely sure what to say to the above. Take your points about machine made but isn't all leather naturally water resistant? Isn't that the point of leather shoes? As for shoes you can machine wash - ummm...why would you want to machine wash a pair of leather shoes? I agree that advances that genuinely are advances are good ones - but gimmicks?

And how are traditionalists a restricting factor?? The amount of choice in men's clothing now is unbelievable IMHO. Never had it so good. But you know - things that are staples are normally staples for a reason. Leather shoes being one. And a suit with a lapel, two or three buttons and 4 or 5 cuff buttons another. You don't need a lapel anymore for your medals, you can have 5 buttons to di it up if you want and who needs buttons on a cuff anymore? Yet these "traditional" elements have survived - and you know why? Because they work!

I don't buy all this guff about metaphysical representations of anything or pyramids or post-modernism. It's just clothes.

I don't give a damn who designed it, made it or what kind of pyramid it respresents as long as it does highlight my strengths (which is why I don't wear jeans that show my arse crack) - as long as it's well made, looks good (ie fits well and to my body/foot shape) and will last me then I'll have it.

To me - quality is king.

That's it.

T

Hey

Yup - will post pics as soon as I get home and can take some. Those on the site don't do them justice at all I promise. The leather is gorgeous - incredibly thick but beautifully soft and the quality of the stitching, the lining and so on is just amazing. They honestly make other boots I've had and tried at similar prices look silly. I've only just discovered boots from traditional shoemakers - I would have passed them by myself in the past thinking they were too "old" or wouldn't have my size (I'm a 6) but if you set aside any preconceptions about traditional shoes and actually take a look at them I promise you you'll be amazed. For £280 I think they're a steal I really do. I'm an absolute convert.

Best

T

Tyler, a lot of the posters here are more fashion-forward, which means they will look more runway, less traditional menswear. Nothing wrong with that, in fact most traditionalists don't even have the comprehension to see beyond the "one best way", absolutist approach they were told.

Hey!

I consider myself to be fashion forward for sure! But without being a slave to it or slavishly following trends and I certainly NEVER try to look like a model on a runway! Ever. I pick and choose key pieces or aspects of a look from the runway or from magazines if I want but I don't try to emulate an entire 'look'.

But also, just to come back to you on one small point - you say traditionalists as if it were a dirty word. I am a traditionalist when it comes to certain things - good shoes being one of them. The old maxim mum's used to tell their daughters - "You can judge a man by the shoes he's wearing" - it holds more water than you might think.

Good shoes can make a 'look' IMHO.

The other is with suits. A good suit is crucial and traditionalists like Kilgour make the finest suits money can buy.

These are fashion forward companies but that have deep seated roots in tradition and it's that heritage and expertise than I'm prepared to pay good money for.

Doesn't mean you can't pair a GREAT pair of boots made with the finest leather and work materials money can buy from a company like Crockett and Jones or Edward Green and then pair them with the most fashion forward pair of trousers you can imagine.

Don't knock tradition - it's the artisans that I admire.

Why buy a pair of machine made boots from Carpe Diem or D&G for twice the price of a pair made by hand with the best leathers that can be repaired by the company you bought them from until you or the boots give up the ghost? Once you start looking into traditional clothing and those who supply it you can cherry pick the best of it and team it with your more label driven pieces to great effect.

Just my thoughts. No flaming please!

T

PS. Of course I might be biased as I have just picked up a pair of black lace up boots an hour ago from Crockett and Jones but they are bloody fantastic and beautifully made and I know they'll just get better and better with age and in 10 years time I'll still be able to get the company that made them to repair them...

I've never heard anything about full grain or corrected grain leather not being considered formal. The shoes you suggested are nice, but toecaps? I just don't like toecaps and going by lucky_clouds choice, probably not a big fan either. The only non-toecap balmorals cheaney have are patent lether . Why are there so few balmoral oxfords that don't have toe caps?

Hi

Sorry you don't like toecaps - I know what you mean about them but actually you get used to the look and an Oxford is just such a classic shoe. And at least the toe is a slight chisel toe and so looks slightly more modern that your typical toecap shoe.

Also, just have to clarify that for dress shoes they really should be a smooth leather and definitely definitely not a grain or corrected grain shoe. You will find that most quality shoemakers (and they know far more than me about shoes) such as Church's, Cheaney (even though now owned by Prada) Tricker's, Crockett and Jones and so on will all say that leathers with a heavy grain are only used in their "country" ranges. None of them sell a dress shoe with heavy or corrected grain. Why? Because that's not a dress shoe. Sorry but I just had to argue that point - it's an important distinction.

I have just bought a great pair of black boots from Crockett and Jones and the leather is heavily grained (they are a toecap I'm afraid) and whilst they look smarter then your average boot so I can wear them dressed up or down they are NOT and never will be a leather suitable for formal dress and I'd never wear a suit with them...

Best

T

Tyler - I wear my jeans tucked in and kinda like it. I've got a pair of pretty militant DKNY boots, dark brown, makes me a feel like I stepped out of hell when I wear them and ready to take anyone on. which probably isn't a great thing all the time.

If I tried to wear my jeans over the top, it would look stupid, I wear slim jeans so you'd see the boot trying to 'escape'.

But each to their own. Just don't give me a funny look when i've got them on cos i'll come and stomp on you

J

Hey James

I don't want to be stomped on so I guess with skinny jeans it's ok (ish!)

I still think Wellingtons are the only boots that should have a jean tucked in if I'm honest. I wear skinny jeans sometimes too but rarely with a boot that won't hide itself nicely. That's where straight legged jeans come in (or dare I say it - bootcut!)

Love my Frye boots and my Crockett boots - maybe tomorrow I'll try them with the skinnies. Not the Frye boots though - I'll look like a pirate...

You should post pics

T

I wouldn't skimp on dress shoes if I were you. And the ones posted aren't what I would call dress shoes. the leather on dress shoes shouldn't be dimpled or have an obvious grain for a start.

You can get a nice pair of Cheaney Oxford's for under £200. And they'll last you years and years.

www.cheaney.co.uk

The Redmond is a good shoe (part of the Signature range and available in black and chestnut)

Crockett and Jones do some great black lace up boots and they're beautifully made. I always steer clear of fashion boots as invariably they don't last long and are not that well made.

Also, not being funny but why the hell would anyone want a pair of boots you can tuck jeans into for gahd's sake?!?! That's awful. A black pair of boots you tuck jeans into are called wellington boots as far as I'm concerned. Just because a look might look like it works on a catwalk for the 70 odd steps it takes to walk up and down it - it doesn't mean it looks so good on the street.

Come on guys - boots with jeans tucked in???! No no no

Check out Crockett and Jones. Would post pics but not entirely sure how.

Really? Is 600 too much? Or too little?

So - how much should one spend and where should one get one from?!?!?!

Help!

Well, maybe not desperate but pretty end of tether type stuff.

Have been looking for months for a slim fitting raincoat and cannot seem to find one for love nor money.

Am looking for a classic single breasted navy/black raincoat but that is slim fitting as I am broad shouldred but very slim hipped and I don't want to look like I'm wearing a tent.

Have tried Acquascutum, Burberry, Dior, Paul & Joe, Dunhill, Prada, Next, H&M, Paul Smith and none have fitted right.

The only one that has is by Ralph Lauren but it's £915 and I just can't justify that amount on a raincoat. I mean - that's a ludicrous amount isn't it? The most I was thinking of spending was £600. Even that seemed a lot to me. Or is £915 reasonable for a raincoat that actually fits?

Please anyone got any advice/direction?

Thanks

T

Hmmm nice denim suit there...

Hey there

I would only wear a sport jacket casually rather than a jacket that is clearly meant to be a part of a suit. The number of buttons should be 1 to 3 - never any more than 3 (EVER) The number of buttons has nothing to do with how smart you'll look - that'll be dictated by the material and cut of the jacket. A 1 button jacket will make your torso look longer as it has an elongating affect. A 2 button is a classic cut and a 3 button will make you look slightly boxy.

If you buy a 3 button jacket NEVER EVER do up the bottom button - it's not meant to be done up and if the jacket is cut properly it will spoil the silhouette if you do do it up. I only ever do the middle button up but you can get away with the top 2.

If wearing a two button jacket do up the top button but leave the second undone.

These are fundamental sartorial rules (no matter how wanky that sounds) and do make a difference!

Paul Smith is doing some great summer jackets - narrower in the shoulders and waist than usual and so perfect for those who want a nice, smart silhouette.

Sport jackets as I think you call them in the states don't have to be like wearing a box...

Hope that's of help

Best

J

I hate to say it too but those look bad bad bad in the rear. Slouchy is a horrid look although there's no right or wrong way to wear jeans other than to make sure they look like they actually fit you (in my opinion) Why spend that much on a pair of jeans that don't actually fit well? Why not just go and get a pair of Levi's? I spend the cash because of the fit.

Anyway, it looks like you have no ass so pull them up!

Not being able to climb stairs because your jeans are so low is not a good look. I see guys in London with their jeans pulled so low their crack in pants is hanging out for all to see. Now that's not nice. If I wanted some crack I'd go and light up thanks.

Actually I don’t need to chill out as I’m not the one getting “upset” here – it seems you guys are. I only asked for pictures. It would be good and quite funny to see a pair of Diors hanging off a waist for a change.

The serious point here is that forums are a mine of information but also mis-information and Diors are expensive jeans that I, for one, don’t want to drop £150 or $300 on only to find that they don’t fit after I’ve washed them because I read on a board that they stretch like some sort of lycra jean – which by reading these posts you’d think they did!!!

I love this forum because most of the info on here you can absolutely trust but look at the size of this thread – there seems to be a lot of jumping and bandwagons going on here. Sorry if my not following the pack is putting people’s noses out of joint. Not meant to. Perhaps I should be posting how my Diors have stretched out so much that they’re like sails billowing around my thighs and waist and that actually I don’t even have to walk anymore – I just let myself be pulled along by the wind blowing through my jeans. But that’s not my experience with these puppies. So, don’t get all feisty and angry and cursing and yelling – we’re all here because we share a passion for denim and Diors is particular in this thread and I’m just sharing my experiences and just because they seem to be very different to yours doesn’t mean they’re any less valid or worth sharing… Or maybe it does. I don’t know. See – just talked myself out of this thread! Hahahaha! Ooops.