benzak

Hi Mark!

Well there are more familier faces to find other than me here on sufu

Almost half of my stock has been sold now, so that's okay since I do all sales myself, rather than selling pre-orders to stores. At this point, BDD is just fun doing instead of being my number one source of income. I'm slowly working towards a goal, which is to make a living out of denim design and development with my own label, and every small step gets me closer, which includes this first small lot!

How is your business?

hey miz, can you maybe ask kuniyoshi-san how he does the ends of the waistband? is it different as well since the waistband is fully chainstitched at the bottom?

I did the same with the front pockets of my jeans, to make it more clean:

I was thinking of doing it on the inseams as well (I used lapseams), but eventually I used two copper coloured threads. I prefered to show the lapseam on the outside as well..

all is still available!

I was thinking.. I have less than 20 pairs left, would anyone be interested in a small contest?

The way you explained it was a bit confusing...but I think this should answer it...

basically...

1/ Most jeans are RHT, LHT is more rare.

2/ Whatever the twill, the opposite leg has more wear because of the disparity between the direction of the weave and the extra friction it causes.

3/ It may also depend on how you sit, I know that sometimes I tend to learn forward onto my right side especially if I'm taking notes in lecture or something, which causes more fades to form on whatever leg you are causing stress on,

exactly...

update on the sizes left:

1x 28

1x 29

1x 30

3x 31

5x 32

3x 33

3x 34

2x 36

2x 38

the 25% discount still counts!

I keep a blog, if you're interested: benzak.blogspot.com

i love those LHT/RHT samurais. BUT, my only problem with them is that (if i remember correctly) they put the LHT on the left hand side and the RHT twill on the right hand side--which is completely logical. however, if you are looking for maximum whiskers, you would want to switch them, so that the LHT is on the RIGHT side and the RHT is on the LEFT side. if you notice, LHT jeans whisker more on the right leg and RHT jeans whisker more on the left leg. can someone correct me if i'm wrong on this?

you are correct, and it has all to do with the direction of the weave: you get sharper whiskers when they are cross on the direction of the weave

Just a point of information - the more common term for interlock in the US is "safety stitch," same thing, an overlock stitch with a chainstitch as well.

I could be wrong, but I thought that the safety stitch was an overlock + chainstitch + topstitch all in one step..

2) about lap felled seams vs. overlocked seams. he doesn't have a preference either way. in fact, when i asked him which one he prefers, he says that he's never really thought about it that deeply. he says that lap felled seams ARE stronger, but that it's really up to personal preference. he says with lap felled seams, you lose about 2 cm in the width of the pant leg, so you have to take that into consideration when using a pattern designed for overlocked seams. also, it is not harder or easier to do overlock vs. lap felled. in fact, with lap felled, you can do it in one step.

3) the original levi's inside pant seam was overlocked, then single stitched and then top stitched. he prefers an interlock stitch here for two reasons, 1) you can do it in one step, whereas with overlock, you have to go through another step with the single stitch. also, 2) he prefers the exact distance between the overlock and chainstitch that he gets when he uses the interlock machine. with the overlock and single stitch method, the distance will vary. here he likes to be exact.

thanks for asking Miz! and I'm looking forward to the pics..

so many of my questions about old techniques are answered! although I still dont understand why you'd be needing a special chainstitch machine for the waistband attachment with chainstitching all the way..

Miz: can you ask mr. kuniyoshi why the interlock stitch is prefered over a double lapseam on the inseams? I prefer double lapseam because it is a cleaner technique.. (I used this in my own jeans as well)

if you need additional pics, I can shoot them!

bring up my post

I made a new thread: http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=149700

this one can be deleted..

As part of my closet clearance, I have some new/unworn and (gently) worn stuff for sale:

Nudie Regular Ralf Dry Selvage

size: 31x34

new unworn

EUR 100,-

(for measurement, click here)

Hells Bells slim tapered leg

size: 30x34

new unworn

EUR 60,-

measurements (BiG method)

waist: 82 cm

inseam: 92 cm

front rise: 27 cm

back rise: 35 cm

thigh: 60 cm

knee: 40 cm

bottom hem: 36 cm

Evis womens jacket

size: something like womens Small

worn COLLECTORS ITEM

EUR 75,-

Evisu early made in Italy (late '90s)

size: 34 (great for anti-fit)

worn

EUR 70,-

measurements (BiG method)

waist: 88 cm

inseam: 76 cm

front rise: 34 cm

back rise: 43 cm

thigh: 72 cm

knee: 52 cm

bottom hem: 46 cm

Cheap Monday Regular Dry

size: 29x32

unwashed, with a month of wear

EUR 20,-

measurements (BiG method)

waist: 85 cm

inseam: 82 cm

front rise: 27 cm

back rise: 37 cm

thigh: 64 cm

knee: 44 cm

bottom hem: 38 cm

Evisu Daicock bleached and destroyed

size: 32

bleached and destroyed by me

EUR 40,-

measurements (BiG method)

waist: 82 cm

inseam: 87 cm

front rise: 32 cm

back rise: 38.5 cm

thigh: 68 cm

knee: 51 cm

bottom hem: 44 cm

Cheap Monday short sleeved, checkered shirt

size: S

gently worn

EUR 20,-

All prices are without shipping. I ship worldwide. Paypal is the prefered paying method.

when you flip it over the pocket over, you can see that if he had used a light colored thread, it would have looked bad.

I always wondered how a bartack like that on the backpockets was made.. I always thought it was a different kind of bartack! now I get it, thank you miz!

can we see him attach the pocket to the front piece?

I think that was what raWorkshop meant as well

Just running through the photos again, and this blows my mind. How does he get the pocket done and then attach it? That's some voodoo shit right there, how does he negotiate the top stitching in the pocket curve then?

That's no voodoo at all. I was tought to sew pockets on this way (first complete the pocket, then attach) as well. You stitch the two parts together (while turned inside out), then fold back and stitch through. But.. I agree on it being 'magical craftsmenship', he's a true artisan jeansmaker!

inspiring...

Look very LEE inspired. LHT, inside label, and leather tag. The denim looks nice. The pockets are a bit too big (long). I would like to see hidden rivets. But if it weren't for the large back pockets, polyester pockets, and Polyester thread throughout I would snatch up a pair at the 25% discount price.

I didn't see any pics of the button fly. I would like to see the buttons.

It does seem like you are trying to merge old school denim stylings (Lees) with some newer technologies (polyester thread and pockets). Which is cool

Good job and I look forward to seeing more designs from BDD.

Also, the label is really cool.

It's not a secret I was inspired by Lee designing the jeans (and logo). I really like the original Lee details and the cowboy reference.

For the button fly: please check the collection part on my website --> http://www.benzakdenimdevelopers.com/limiteddry.php

they are in my topbanner as well..

first thing i thought, too. really clean looking and i dig the green selvedge. question, though, what does benzak mean?

Benzak is my nickname, evolved from many other names my friends used to call me.. I've been called by this name for a long long time now, so I thought it would be great to implement in my brandname (my birthname is too hard to pronounce for non-Dutch speaking people, but this way I keep it personal..)

thanks for posting yours David!

cool man! it is quite unique that an atelier only makes 1 pair for someone..

does kuniyoshi have big clients? or does he only produce private label/own brand?

BDD Limited Dry

vintage early '70s Levis

ALD Royston BT

Ah, is this a mill that supplies a certain VF corp line? Looks great. What's the shrinkage?

Missed your question.. I did a homewashing test, 60 degrees with no tumble dry, and they shrunk max 1 size in waist and approx 5cm/2inches in lenght (which I fully stretched back while still damp)

179 Eur ( without our discount) for a pair of jeans that was part of a run of 36 doesnt sound very expensive to me

Left hand twill and green selvedge , its nice to see smaller companies have the ability to bust out because of the internet.

The start up capital needed for a venture like this without it would be astronomical

Im pretty sure no one ever started out their own company and had a product that "stood out" and had a massive following right from the get go, developing a following and your own detail/edginess will come with time.

I think you did a fantastic job for a first run benzak, and the fact that you are in touch with a bunch of denim nutcases asking for input shows your head is in the right place

Yes I really enjoy all imput, especially from the SUFU community. I think it's very important to get direct feedback from the target group and although I am a member since 2005 (mostly lurking) I still learn every day.

tg put it best "your rep counts for nothing". Benzak, any pictures of worn in pair? That inside out chainstitching is pretty unique and I def like the logo. Great job on the denim

^ what he said about your guys drama

i like the look and it being lht as well but that price point (well at least for me) is a big turn off because thats almost 300 for an unknown brand.. if i had more income i wouldnt mind it to be honest but i gotta work with what i know.

you will do great things man just keep on going.

oh and also are there worn pics of the denim?

I will post a picture of my own pair, which I've been wearing for 6 weeks now. It shows some wear already and should be an okay measurement for the fading/colour potential. If you are interested I can also post a pic of the fabric stonewashed in different degrees. Other than that I don't have worn in stuff (yet)

And to all others: thanks for all the feedback already!

Hello Benzak - Your jeans look great, good luck. Why do you use Sanforized denim and will you be using unsanforized denim in the future?

Using unsanforized denim is definately something I will be looking at in the future. Pattern development is a little different for unsanforized denim, which I want to fully learn before actually using it.

Ah, is this a mill that supplies a certain VF corp line? Looks great. What's the shrinkage?

Don't know about VF, but I do know they produce selvage denim for Levi's..

179 EU?

With that price it's going to be hard to stand out.

With all the minimalistic raw denim labels out there, with hardly anything to set them apart, is there really any room for another? Feels like you guys are 5 years late to the game.

Anyway, I would love to have my own denim workshop, if it could work out. It's really cool to be able to do what you love whilst making $$$. Business AND pleasure...

You must understand that I only produced 36 pairs for this first run, which is relatively more expensive than producing much larger lots. But like I mentioned, for SUFU members the price will be EUR 135 (25% discount). I offer this because I prefer my jeans to be worn by people who are that into denim as myself.

And yeah, the main reason I am doing this because I want to work with one of the things I love most: denim. I'm having fun doing this, and I think that is the most important, just like you said!

This is the way a lot of business will be from here on out, with the internet enabling niche manufacturers. You don't need a massive market share when you make them by hand. Welcome to the superfuture.

Keep it up Benzak.

Thanks!

But you did understand I do not make them myself by hand? I design and develop the product, and they are produced in a small atelier.

The fit pics on your website look good.

But having polyester as a pocketlining isn't the best idea as polyester pills like a bitch and it's not breathable which is important for those in hotter climates (also gives feeling of cheapness).

The logo could be developed further but I'm a graphic designer so i'm just being nit picky

I'll take your advise in account with future developments.. thanks!