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Paul T

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Posts posted by Paul T


  1. I heard recently that the introduction of the Italian jeans coincided with a huge range of counterfeit in London, which is doing them huge damage, and no-one's cracking down on it. Will be interesting to see what effect it has, but I know their rivals are writing them off.

    The comparison with Diesel isn't that valid - Diesel generally have a great retail environment, which helps them control their brand. Evisu hasn't, which is one of the reasons counterfeiting is becoming a problem. If they want to become a big brand, as opposed to a cool, cult one, they need to invest some money in controlling it.


  2. Mmm, double-sided tab means they're post 1953; concealed rivets means they're pre 1967. I suspect they did have a red line but it's washed out. Is it possible the back pocket arcuate has simply worn off? Can you see any traces of it at the edge? Either way, sounds like a good find.


  3. I was in Selfridge's (not a cheap shop, Oxford St) today, they had APC dry denim for £65.

    For Paul Smith, check out their discount store. It's basically off Brook St, which is off Bond St, down a little alleyway. It tends to have sale items and is always worth a look.

    For denim Selfridges and Liberty have the widest choice, but their summer sales are limited and I'm not sure when they are. Check out Endell St and Covent Garden (which has the main Paul Smith store) for more denim... they tend to be a bit cheaper, for more selvage, vintage-style denim (INterstate and American Classics). For second'hand go to Mendoza on Brick Lane (great for Belstaff jackets) and Beyond Retro. Altho' if you're from the US, used denim is pricier than in the US.

    It's not perfect, but in London buy a copy of the time Out shopping guide, it's pretty good as a guide to what you can get where.

    For shoes, save your money til you get to Italy. Even in the main stores, even things like Tod's are 2/3 US prices, and its worth going to them for the beautiful (M&F) sales people.

    Have fun.


  4. " fashion victims to discuss for the 50th time about vintage denim (which is SOOO 1980's Japan), "...

    I don't think this is a fashion thing - it's a purists' thing, which is different. You could even say that the whole obsession with selvage, ring-ring, or cool-looking jeans (which I share) is anti-fashion - it's about getting hold of something inherently simple, which is just 'made right'. Some people like APC jeans cos they're 'cool' and will impress others; some people like them cos they just 'feel right'; for themselves.

    I don't think it's crucial for anyone to know loads about denim. But it;s such a ubiquitous fabric, with such resonance, that knowing about it does increase your enjoyment in tracking it down, wearing it, watching it fade. It's like watching a movie - you can spot all the historical references, the way the script is structured, thje camerawork - or you can simply enjoy the movie. But if you do understnad more about how the movie came about, the camerwork bla bla bla, it will actually increase your enjoyment when you see a brilliant movie, cos you can appreciate it on so many different levels. It's not obllgatory, though.

    Ultimately, it's not important. But if you're gonna wear jeans anyway, so you look for ones you feel are 'right', it's not harmful, either.


  5. If you'd paid $30 or $40, maybe they would be cool for the price. As I said, I was suprised that people did go to that much trouble - show the market for vintage-style gear is bigger than you'd think. But I suspect the real deal wouldn't have cost much more than the $100 you paid. THese things happen & I can understand how you were fooled. But what you SHOULD do is post follow-up feedback on the guy who ripped you off, so that others don't get ripped off too.


  6. What's the standard production one like? (You can only get the Blue Bell reissues in the UK AFAIK).

    Last time I looked, some of the Wrangler cowboy jeans were in a cotton/polyester denim! Is the stnadard one still a slight boot-cut?

    You might know this already, but in Europe they're producing vintage style 11MW and 13MWZ jeans under the Blue Bell Collection brand (you can see them on the website) - made in Poland, I think, with Turkish denim - the quality looks good, nice vintage-style detailing but I don't know what the shape is like. In Europe the jeans aren't too hip, but the jackets are - they're the quintessential Mod denim jacket.

    I do agree that they're kinda under-rated jeans, tho I've never tried a pair on. I think VF corporation, who've owned Lee & Wrangler for years, used Wrangler as a cash cow & never tried to expand their market (whereas the Lee division, particularly in Europe, did a much better job). But lately the European design end have introduced some hipper stuff.


  7. A bit OT, but I noticed today that Evisu do a new kid's line. It's truly pitiful - only for people who want to buy a label when the clothes themselves look like crap, and the prices are beyond ridiculous. It marks a new low. Even H&M stuff is designed with more imagination.

    OTOH, has anyone seen you can get Belstaff jackets for four-year-olds?


  8. Hey, this is one minimal post!

    I saw the 11MW, I think, the button fly version... I would be interested to try some on and see how much of a bootcut they are. But the one item from the new collection I think really rocks is the western shirt, I think it's called the 27MW - it's like Leiv's sawtooth shirt, but looks a bit sleeker. There are great William Claxton shots of Steve McQueen wearing it.

    But then, there was the time I was walking down the street in Leiv's Red and a sawtooth shirt, and a drunk woman came up to me and said "hello cowboy'. Not sure I could go thru that again...


  9. Actually, the weird/interesting about the cut of jeans - which has become iconic, and rarely varies from when Levi's, or even people before them, produced denim pants in the 1870s - is that it probably originated from a desire to waste the minimum amount of fabric - that's why things like the yoke are shaped the way they are. I'll be interested if anyone here knows more, but my impression is that, using narrow selvage, there would't be a huge amount of waste.

    Actually, I'm pretty staggered there are so many people producing fake LVC items. And while the pair shown here aren't that good, they're not that bad, either. They're probably no worse than LS&Co's first attempt at making 'Capital E' jeans in the 1990s.


  10. Well, as has been pointed out, authenticity is a much-abused term. But, duh, I thought fashion was about the shock of the new, not the shock of the three-years-old...

    I'm by no means a Levi's die-hard, but I did feel a bit sorry for them the day a marketing manager told me about the time someone told him he should check out the new Miss Sixty range, it was really cool (by implication, cooler than anything Levi's were doing). And it was the Miss Sixty Type 1 retread...,


  11. Wandering around Selfridges, as you do, I noticed the new Armani range (not racks I normally check out).

    It features an almost literal knock-off the the Levi's RED range that gave birth to Type 1 - down to the big rivets, low rise front, inky-blue denim, and even the mulitcoloured stitching. It's even more blatant than the True Religion and Miss Sixty knockoffs.

    Who the hell is buying these? People who thought the Levi's ones weren't expensive enough?


  12. Usually they can't resist making them more 'authentic' than the originals - that's why you often get things like red selvage lines where you shouldn't, or extra back pocket rivets etc. The fact your seller didn't show the extra redline parts in the auction photos makes it pretty obvious he knew they were fakes.


  13. Not sure exactly when everything moved to Japan. Even a year ago, after they'd closed the old factory (Valencia?) (eaither for earthquake reinforcement, or for cutbacks), there still seemed to be some US-made jeans; others were made in Italy. Around a month ago I was told all the spring 05 range is made in Japan.

    I do have a pic here of the current 55 reissue coincidentally, which is definietly made in Japan and yes, in almost every single detail it looks different, from the colour of stitching to the look of the red tab. Unfortunately it's 46Meg so I can't post it. But all the 1955 reissues I've seen over the last 5 years or so do have the leather-look patch. (There was at one point, perhaps just in Japan, a 54 reissue with a leather patch, again which looked nothing like this one).


  14. it;s just the new ones that are made in Japan. That patch is too thick and shiny - and the '55 reissues would have had a 'leather look' - ie card label. The Made in US inside tag is totally different from the real one, which is woven in a different way, without the batwing logo, with washing instructions on the back. The LVC jeans (1947 or earlier) with leather patches would have had a slightly deeper arcuate.


  15. Another reason for Broken Twill (invented by John Neil Walker, and first used by Wrangler in 1965 for its 13MWZ cowboy jeans), which someone at Wrangler just told me:

    "The unique structure of broken twill denim allows it to absorb starch

    very well. Cowboys soak their jeans in starch for two reasons:

    a, To become a dirt screen (in the same way as Teflon coating works

    today), they're proud guys those cowboys!

    b, The starch helps them maintain a center crease down the front of

    their jeans.

    Who'da thunk it?


  16. Hiya Superslim, did you ever see the CD-ROM that Cone produced of their production process? I DID have a spare one but have rummaged thru my cupboards and can't find the bleedin' thing. They might still have some knocking around they could send you?


  17. Superslim, you must have been to Selvage in NY, it's on Mulberry (and prime?), can't remember if it's SoHo or the Village, 219 0994, last time I was there the manager was Brett Anderson. They should have all the RED and Vintage stuff. If you're in the industry you might be able to get a discount (25% in London if you work in a shop on the same street!).

    I;m not saying Levi's will necessarily work for you, I just like them...


  18. I'm sure others will know more than me, but if you don't get any better suggestions, when you're in Barcelona, got to Vincon, a pretty good interiors shop - I think it's on Passeig de Gracia, which is in the main shopping area, called the Eixemple (sp?). They sell a book called the 'Barcelona Design Guide' (just looked for my copy , can't find it). It's written by architects and I think they also name some good shops. It might also be worth asking the staff at Vincon, some of them look pretty hip - it's not too young, it's a bit like (London's) Conran Shop, but better, or was when I was there a few years ago.

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