Jim Cissell

I was hoping someone would know where there was a business to send jeans to get copper rivets custom-placed where you wanted them.

I've checked periodically with the flagship Levi's store in SF (they have an in-house 'shop' there that does some custom work such as this) but they haven't gotten any Levi's branded rivets in there for over a year now, so, no rivets.

Anyway, if anyone has any ideas...

Thanks,

Jim

I feel strongly that when the original company makes the vintage jeans, they can certainly be considered reissues.

In the case of Levi's, Wrangler and Lee, it seems clear that their vintage line is truly a reissue, as they were the original company manufacturing them in the first place. Reissues are when a said company decides to release a particular item once again.

Reproductions are just that; a copy, usually made by an entity other than the originator.

Jim

Has anyone seen these jeans stateside?

I noticed them on the Levi's Asian website, and thought they were rather interesting.

The use of the deep orange thread detailing, as well as the exaggerated jeans features really caught my eye. The yoke on the back seems more pronounced as well - pretty cool.

There are nowhere to be found on eBay. Does anyone know if they'll ever market them here in the U.S.?

Thanks,

Jim

What's odd to me is the 10 wash-cycles required to totally complete the shrinking process on the LVC shrink-to-fits (see label). You'd think two or three would do it, but Levi's clearly states ten.

I wonder what the dynamic is?

Jim

The high-heat of the dryer makes sense, but actually feezing the shirt doesn't.

Seems like that step wouldn't truly matter.

All in all, it sounds as if the hot wash/hot dryer combo approach shrinks most effectively.

Jim

Here's an interesting question...

Which factor actually shrinks denim the most - warm or hot water washing, or the dryer?

Or, is it a combination of the two?

Jim

I'm slow, so forgive me...

I just found out the 501 STF jeans still retain the felled inseam detailing, while the pre-shrunk model went single stitch.

That seems rather odd that Levi's would do that sort of inconsistency in the same model line. I wonder why they would do that?

Frankly, I was glad to discover that, as I prefer the double-stitched construction.

Are there any other sutle features that are different from one another?

Thanks,

Jim

Hey,

I was looking at these photos of the STF 501s and noted the inseam was felled.

I thought all the newer 501s (including the STF model) had the single line of stitching on the inseams?

Is that not the case, or are these jeans pictured the previous (before the so-called anti-fit) model line?

Thanks,

Jim

Nice, substantial vintage line-up! Great to see the extensive rigid fabric representation, too. The longer sizes offered is good news as well!

BTW, on the 1967 505 jeans, does anyone know if the inseam is a felled one or not? If not, when did Levi's start putting felled seams on their 505 line?

Thanks,

Jim

Anyone have a new old stock source (aside from eBay) for the 501 cut that was discontinued right before the newer 'anti-fit' version came out?

Thanks,

Jim

I very much associate feeled seams with quality.

I can remember when shirts had the single line stitch on many of the seams, and only the VERY well made ones had the felled. The double-stitch is much more common now, probably due to the cheaper labor availability. You really can get better quality clothing for the dollar now than say, 20 years ago, even with inflation factored in.

So, in my mind they should've retained the felled inseam. It just looks better, it washes and ages nicely, exhibits lots of character, holds-up over time longer, and just seeems better. I think all of the seams on jeans should be felled, actually!

Look at shirts, for example, and see if you'd rather buy one without the felled seams...

Jim

I'm refering to the felled seam, or double-row of stitches along the inner (leg) seam. That seam was traditionally a single line of stiching, until sometime in the early 70s. They then went to the double-stitched seam (which many of their other models share) until about 2003, when they adopted the so-called 'anti-fit' styling to their 501 pattern, and reverted back to the vintage single-line inseam.

I understand this newer cut was based upon the beloved 1947 model, which also shared this single stitch inseam.

My question is why, after going to the double stitch (which looks good and is more durable) did they abandon it? Less costly to manufacture may be one answer, but I suspect there were other reasons...

Jim

Anyone have any idea why Levi's started putting a double stitched inseam on their 501s around the early 1970s?

A nice, durable detail, but it's also funny they dropped it recently...

Jim

I was wondering if anyone knows when the felled inseam was intoduced on the 501s?

It must have been relatively recent, as the LVC 1971 501s appears to not exhibit this characteristic.

Thanks,

Jim

I was hoping someone could help me obtain a low quantity (x50) of copper rivets. My wife is making a 'scrap' denim quilt and she would like to fasten the major quilted portions with traditional jeans-style copper rivets.

We've looked on eBay without much luck, and the Internet hasn't yielded any good results either. Ideally, it would be nice to get some that would allow easy fastening with a supplied hand-tool. One potential problem we were concerned with is how to determine what size or length of shank to get, based of course, on the thickness of the quilted layers we're connecting.

Any sourcing tips or additional info would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks,

Jim

Sorry if this post seems weird, or that I work for Levi's or something.

I just thought it was great that Levi's would even make such a product. I can't tell you how long I've always wanted an 'official' pair of classic-styled Levi's that were both heavy-duty in fabric, and used the triple-stitched construction found on most 'real' work clothing... I also know 505s aren't the prime choice for the authentic denim folks, but as they don't seem to be treating the 501 line in this unique way, this appears to be the closest we'll get...

Jim

I can't believe no one has mentioned the new 'Workwear Collection' from Levi's!

The 505 Workwear model I recently obtained is really nice and unique, and certainly deserves more consideration...

The discription on their website is a tad inaccurate - the jeans don't have a reinforced knee, and the description that JCPennys has on the link isn't accurate either - they don't have the hammer loops.

What they are is a very heavy-duty (15.5 oz denim) pair of standard 505s (with a slightly wider leg opening - almost boot-cut, but straight-legged like the regular 505s) and all of the seams are triple-stitched, which seems like something they should be doing on all jeans, anyway!

The fit was a bit different - I ordered my usual size (a 32'' waist/ 34'' length) and found them to fit rather sugly thru the 'hip' area. The length was very generous, which was nice as I've found Levi's to be kind of skimpy in that department - at least with the assorted 501 models I have purchased in recent years. I reordered and found a 33' waist' to fit just fine. I also ordered a few more pairs for later.

As they are so heavy in fabric weight, I like they way the drape and hang much better than the modern, thinner denims. More substantial, like Wrangler 13MWZs - actually, beefier than those!

The rivet aspect is a nice surprise as well. The rivets are more detailed than their standard fare, and as I stated before, the set of hidden rivets on the back pockets are especially nice! The primary waist button is a very beautiful detail too, and is easy to use due to its concave design.

The generous watch pocket is a nice element too, as it is easier to use, and will allow folks to carry cell phones or iPods in a more convienient place.

Overall, they are a bargain (from Sears anyway, as they put them on sale - I've only found the 505 Workwear versions form Sears and Pennys mail-order departments) and are probably something to score soon as they may be discontinued later (as companies often do with nice, unique lines!). These are truly well-made jeans that belong in any halfway serious collection.

Anyway, between the heavy-weight denim and those durable triple-stitched seams, these are a new Levi's classic!

Later,

Jim

I don't know how many folks remember me discussing the new Levi's Workwear Line, but I have an update I thought you'd be interested in. I was finally able to track down a source (Sears on-line, of all places) and ordered a couple pairs of the 505 version.

Let me say these are great jeans! The fabric is a very heavyweight 15oz, all of the major seams (including both inner and outer inseams) are triple stiched, the watch-pocket is larger and MUCH deeper than normal, and the pocket bags themselves are very heavy fabric.

The belt loops are reinforced where they are attached, the waist button is quite unique and attractive, and very well made. One of the best surprises are the hidden rivets on the back pockets! Speaking of rivets, they are nice and subtly different in their own right, with great detailing and color.

They are cut and styled as they say - like the 505s, only with attitude!

I really like them; the weight, the way they hang, the VERY rugged look and feel, and the fact they're simply unique to the Levi's line - made like they're supposed to be - for work.

They're on sale at Sears right now ($28.00) so you may want to jump on them before they're gone (you know how quirky Levi's is with their inventory and product availablility on 'odd' stuff).

Jim

I don't know if anyone else has noticed, but it appears Levi's is selling a heavy-duty version of their standard 505s. They're in the 'Workwear Collection', and they have triple-stitched in- and outer-seams, reinforced pockets and belt loops, and made from 15oz denim (which seems a bit heavier than their current, standard line.

Anyway, I was considering a pair, but they are nowhere to be had (although Penny's has the 'heavier' 550 version available on-line). Guess I'll contact the San Fran store and see what they can get...

Anybody have any experience with these?

Thanks,

Jim

I don't know if anyone else has noticed, but it appears Levi's is selling a heavy-duty version of their standard 505s. They're in the 'Workwear Collection', and they have triple-stitched in- and outer-seams, reinforced pockets and belt loops, and made from 15oz denim (which seems a bit heavier than their current, standard line.

Anyway, I was considering a pair, but they are nowhere to be had (although Penny's has the 'heavier' 550 version available on-line). Guess I'll contact the San Fran store and see what they can get...

Anybody have any experience with these?

Thanks,

Jim

I talked to both the Levi's folks and the Levi's store in San Fran, and it appears they aren't producing the 1947 (deadstock) in 36'' length this year, once again.

Bummer...

Jim

No, I don't have any connection whatsoever with Wrangler.

In fact for years I refused to wear their jeans - I too associated them closely with that uptight, creased, cowboy image. But one day I just really took a look at the 13MWZ - because of their authentic heritage and the rivets - and started wearing them, without the goofy, pointed boots! And I loved 'em.

I mainly keep bringing them up because they seem overlooked for no good reason...

Jim

C'mon guys - why aren't we making more of a big deal with back pocket rivets?!

Everyone knows rivets are what make jeans, and they used to be on back pockets, too. Now, they're all but gone, replaced with dumb, sewn, bar-tacks. We're fortunate that an old iconic standby - Wrangler - still cares enough about heritage to continue offering a model (or two) that actually proudly features them.

Just because the 'cowboys' have adopted these particular jeans doesn't mean they're uncool and cool guys just can't wear them! Nonsense. The rise isn't that high either, so just get over that one...

Embrace the fact you can easily get jeans with back pocket rivets, without dancing thru hoops, waiting until LVC is good and ready to reoffer their 201 model, and throw them out there in goofy, limited quantites at goofy-high prices.

Those rivets are there guys; at a great price, and waiting to be proudly adorned!

Jim

How does the modern, late '90s - early 2000, pre-'anti-fit' 501s compare fit-wise with the 1947 model?

Thanks,,

Jim

Actually, the 13MWZ designation references the 13th jeans prototype that was developed in 1947 by Blue Bell employee Bernard Lichtenstein ('Rodeo Ben'), a Polish tailor who worked closely with cowboys, for designing that particular model.

Jim

Jim Cissell