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About timetravel.insurance

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  1. timetravel.insurance


    Procion MX + soda ash using cold water immersion per the instructions should work if you keep soaking for a few days and re-agitating the mix every several hours. I used it to darken up some light navy pants made of ventile a while back and it worked great. The long soak time allows the dye to permeate the fabric's water resistance, and the cold soaking temp doesn't shrink the fabric like hot dye would.
  2. timetravel.insurance

    Byborre textile tech style

    RIP Editions Long shot, but WTB B-Suit size M any condition
  3. timetravel.insurance


    Hi, does anyone know what material these pants are made of? Looks like DS to my untrained eye, but I hope it's stotz. Really hoping for some new wider fitting acr stotz pants to come out in general. Thanks!
  4. timetravel.insurance

    Urban Techwear

    Hi all, longtime lurker here finally biting the $6 bullet to share my results and exp with dyeing this pair of Bamba 3.x I reviewed similar available online resources and learned a bit from trial and error while practicing with old shoes. I went into dyeing this pair hoping to do a gradient between 2 synthetic dyes (aqua/blue fade) but messed it up and completely bricked an attempt to add “weathering” using acrylic paint following that. I debated what to do from there and ultimately used black leather dye to cover most of the shoe, including the synthetic upper that was already dyed aqua (hence the weird nuclear glowing black color) while omitting the bottoms of the soles and preserving the aqua colored heel strap buckle thing inside of plastic wrap. I can’t do much more to destroy them any further, so I suppose this pair is done. Here are my recommendations for using the two main types of dye that work with sneakers: SYNTHETIC DYE PRO -Synthetic dye will only leave permanent color results on a few areas of the 3.x model and wash clean out of the leather and rubber portions after multiple rinses and use of soap/soda ash (see pre-black leather dye pics for a better idea of this) -Huge range of color options compared to leather dyes -Results are very permanent after washing out excess dye CON -Needs to reach boiling temperature when mixed. Adheres best when still somewhat hot, but high heat could also melt shoe upper or glue. Using 30sec dye dunks w/ 3-5 min periods of cooling time out of the dye bath was a method that seemed to work well for bolder results compared to longer soak times in cooled dye baths. The shoes are gonna shrink a bit for sure, best to size up .5 if TTS fits snug -Results are irreversible (exact measurements/ test runs highly recommended) and it’s very difficult to control overall color fidelity of non-earthen dye tones; bright colors can look sort of “easter egg”ish (this picture is lying, it didn't even look this good) LEATHER DYE PRO -Leaves permanent color results on all shoe materials (leather, synthetic, rubber) -Dye color intensity can be thinned with neutral leather dye + excessively dyed results can largely be stripped back using acetone/rubbing alcohol + elbow grease - Sick “worn future” aesthetic for black/earth tones (or “toxic sludge” look for other colors) CON - Messy to apply + rinse out -Takes forever to fully rinse out, stains your beloved jawnz I used black leather dye + water immersion to create a “camo” pattern on my shorts as well, which I think came out surprisingly cool. Hope this was helpful!
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342