Jorge Pantalones
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Posts posted by Jorge Pantalones
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Process photos from my studio:
@jorge_pantalones -or- https://www.instagram.com/jorge_pantalones/
I would love to have all y'all along for the ride!
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Day 1, 1st time wearing 'em, walking the dog around our `hood:
Almost forgot to add the obligatory "Jeans Standing On Their Own" gag:
That one never gets old.
Cheers!
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- Popular Post
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Hey all, (especially @bartlebyyphonics
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I meant to have these done four or five days ago but I've been busy. Last night and tonight I got to business, sent my $20 and lo & behold, I have an entry:
18.5oz Kuroki Mills by Jorge Pantalones.
and a quick soak before I wear them tomorrow:
I made these along with 12 other pair. Here are a few process photos:
Cutting table chaos
Setting the run & fell, then finishing it on a Kansai dbl. needle chainstitch machine
My beloved Singer 69-8. I honestly wasn't sure if it would plow through all ten layers of this 18.5oz denim but it handled it with aplomb.
Contest hasn't even started yet and I've already had a blast.
I'll get some pics of them on tomorrow when it's light out.
Cheers!
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I'm normally one to lurk in the wings and not post much
* However *
Over the summer, it came time to retire my favorite daily denims. So last week I was pulling some Kuroki Mills 18.5 oz. denim off the shelf and revamping my patterns a bit. I got the yardage three years ago for some of my regular bespoke clients, sold most of it but saved the last three yards for myself. Also last week, I noticed this contest thread. It will be a little out of the norm for me but I thought, if it's not too daft, it might be fun to enter the contest with them.
Here's the Denim:
I love the perfectly regular tufts every four inches where the shuttles were replaced. No doubt they're so close together because the yarns are HUGE. The fabric gets its high weight not from being super densely woven but rather those ginormous yarns. As a result it has a surprisingly supple hand. I'm kinda hoping that will mean a little less darning the crotch back together over time.
I took a picture of the Kuroki denim over some 14 oz. Kurabo Mills denim so you can see the difference in the yarn size.
I finished all the cutting this evening. All ready to sew.
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Two things:
1) The chainstitch consists of a top thread and a bottom thread that will always be "knitted" together in the same way. In this way, chainstitch's are all the same.
2) The "folder" the machine uses to roll the fabric under before it goes beneath the needle is really what makes the much beloved roping.
Regarding the chainstitch itself, thread tension can vary the outcome as you've noticed.
- Honestly, Blue Owl's machine looks to be in perfect tune. Perhaps a little loose but that will often be a necessity with older machines.
- The Railcars look nice too. While the Blue Owl's are showing us close to the minimum thread tension, the Railcars are showing maximum thread tension. Any tighter and I suspect they would begin to pucker the fabric, in fact they already might be a little bit.
- The Fullcounts stitch is flatter for a reason, the machine wasn't tensioned right. You can see the top thread, the lighter little dot, peaking through. Where the top thread intertwines with the bottom thread should occur 'in' the fabric, not above or below. This pulls the bottom thread into a 3 dimensional loop instead of the 2 dimensional looping they've achieved.
Regarding folders:
- A perfectly made hem, as a tailor would do it, would be made by ironing the fabric under itself twice and topstitching that down. The fabric would be perfectly aligned and there would be absolutely zero 'roping'.
- By contrast, an old 43200G Union Special came with a folder that opens up, kind of separating the two metal halves, the user kind of rolls the denim under itself and 'clamps' it in that way, then lets the machine rip. You can imagine how this pulls a lot on the folded end and then stitches all this unevenness into place while it runs around the circle.
- Modern hemming folders are a little more clever so there's less uneven pulling and thus, less roping.
- Several companies are recreating the 43200G's folder and many places are putting those folders on different machines with varying results.
My thoughts: Factory made goods are perfectly uniform; good for them. The closer you get to truly handmade, the more variation you find. These differences look beautiful to my eyes and I celebrate them. Perhaps at Fullcount the technician got in a fight with his wife who then didn't make his coffee that morning and you wear the result. You have a connection to him now, you're pants are human. There's a great documentary on Napolitano suit makers "O'Mast: The Art of Neapolitan Tailoring" in which the tailors talk about the imperfections are indeed, what make the suits perfect.
Sorry for the long-windedness. A friend received a nice, used Kansai double needle chainstitch last week and I spent the better part of the day setting it up and tuning it for him. The wounds are fresh
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Funny, I just retimed a 42 stitch version of that machine last week. I tune mine the same way I would tune any of our DL-5550's, etc. - or for that matter, just about any lockstitch machine, which is all the bar-tacker really is. That is to say: raise ~2.5mm from bottom dead point & the hook should be meeting the scarf at the top of the eye. Make sure the gap between the two is paper thin (recessed screws on left side of the bed arm just behind the bobbin area) and then, both before you start and after you finish, make sure you have a fresh needle and absolutely perfect thread line. I find these machines are very sensitive to how they're threaded.
While you're in there, check the hook for any burrs both by feel and with a magnifying glass.
Try not to mess with the thread cutter; it's way more tedious and much less intuitive to fix. A bad combination for sure.
Consider also, with 3 layers of denim and T-80 thread, your thread tension and needles (18's likely) are going to be very different from how that machine might normally be tuned. Though timing should remain the same.
This seems to be a good, basic timing video. It looks like he's working on a Singer but this same formula will get almost any lockstitch machine tuned well. The timing info starts after the 8 minute mark:
Also, this:
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DWC2 - Photo Updates Thread
in superdenim
Posted · Edited by Jorge Pantalones
45 days in (that's 6% of the way!) and there's some proto-wear that I thought a camera might now be able to pick up.
The front's definitely showing. I flattened the denim a little so that's mostly color difference:
but the honeycombs are still mostly texture. I pulled the right leg flatter for the photo:
The seam allowances are beginning to show and the belt loops are wearing for sure:
Again, I can't say enough good about this Kuroki Mills denim. It's my first time wearing any of their textiles but it certainly won't be the last. At some point I'll do a separate post about just the textile.
Cheers!