KW-BOW

Hey guys,

assuming this is the right place to post this. i have a customer who purchased some 24oz PBJs from BIG and would like them hemmed. I am afraid for my union special. i've heard of shops refusing to do jeans more than 19oz. is there anyone who has advice for me with my 43200g or anyone who needs to hem 24oz+ denim?

thanks

What's the inseam like? Is it double felled? Our 2nd gen 43200G can handle 25oz iron hearts like butter but 21 oz unbrandeds brake the needle due to the inseam thickness.

 

 

sorry for the crappy iphone pics, but just letting you know that these just arrived! Arctic Selvedge in Weird Guy and Super Skinny Guy

Big John x Naked & Famous x Rockin Jelly Bean collab in Super Skinny Guy Only (comes with a poster of the above image) 

details and measurements will be up on our site later this weekend

Im still waiting to see the Okayama spirits and the Arctic denim.

 

Canadian factories had a 5 week hiatus. that's why the last of the fall collection has been lagging. 

We got a shipment that left last Thursday, should arrive in store at the end of the week/ over the weekend. 

Guys, he's not saying his perfect hem is any different than a factory worker doing a perfect hem. He is saying that he basically guarantees a fault-free hem, when some less than ideal factory hems slip through QA, per his first-hand inspection as a retailer. And from my dealings with Blue Owl, if the hem gets to you with any faults, they'll probably quickly rectify it for you. Am I right, Kevin?

Correct. 

This is so silly to be debating, warehouse jeans are awesome and as far as hemming, use your judgement was just adding my 2 cents on the subject

any updates on the black wax WG and the waterproof WG? both are instacops for me. 

 

Those are Spring/Summer 2014 I believe. N&F usually comes a little early though. No set delivery date at this time

^ I think that you saying that your hem job would be "better than factory" may have been a strong claim, and resulted in PeterParker's response. That said, I'm sure you do a fine job. 

There are some people like Roy who are very skilled on many vintage machines, then there are the factory workers. It's really not that hard, and in reality, it's just a hem. The union special is capable of one thing; hemming. Any union special specialist who has hemmed thousands of pairs, they better be able to produce a better chain stitch than a factory worker who is simply going through the motions, cranking them out. And if not then they fail because it is not a difficult task, whatsoever

Not a question about being wrong or right, I was just interested in the story behind the fact.

@ KW-BOW: Thanks for sharing

No problem and you are very knowledgable on the brand most everything you say is spot on!

While this may be true for a lot of denim, it's a fairly egregious claim when talking about the producers you listed. They employ expertly trained workers, and I would be happy if any aftermarket hem could replicate the factory hem.

Matching the thread colors is pretty standard, and I believe SE BIG all use union specials, 43200Gs, same as us. It's really not that egregious of a claim at all. I have been to multiple factories and seen how/ who is doing it. Everyone goes through training it's not like they would just let someone who hasn't seen a machine hem for a customer. I had to hem all sorts of jeans and crazy fabrics for 6 months before i was allowed to do one for a customer. just because we will only put it out if it is flawless. When we have packages arrive, and we inspect every piece you tend to notice sloppy hems occasionally. Factories go through the motions and occasionally get sloppy.

Jay! Thank you!

I am not jay, Kevin

Really want to hem my 1000xx, but I love the way the guys at Takeoff did the hem. It is identical to the Ware House factory spec. i.e. the actual fold at the bottom where the fabric is folded in and then stitched is very tight and skinny. After soaking it just once the roping is ridiculous. 

 

I know not a lot of people care much for these little details, but I know there are some of us out there that do. I figure I would hem them once more before I soak them for a second time. Figure this way I can maximize the puckering and tightening on the fabric since (ideally) the fabric once folded and in place will shrink and be pulled by the tug of the chain stitch. 

 

I have had my jeans hemmed at Railcar before and they have done a great job by all means, but I feel that the hem fold (if it's even called that) is usually on the thick and long side. Self Edge is extremely inconvenient unless the jeans have been purchased there and BIG I know only chain stitches on jeans bought through them.

 

Ok I'm done ranting and sounding like a complete idiot.

 

Cheers

Send it to us at blue owl. I personally hem 98% of the denim that comes through. Samurai flat head momotaro warehouse literally you name it. I usually give myself a 1.25" allowance. Meaning that much gets folded in half then chain stitched. If you get your jeans chain stitched the hem job should be better than the factory.

Your source on the Grand Indigo fabric being a looser weave?

My source is the creators of momotaro, and since I helped develop the BOM006 I talk with them direct. Additionally, just compare the two fabrics side by side, it's quite easy to tell the difference especially if you have worn both fabrics.

 

Here is a peek of that denim I was talking about. This one is something else. N&F Hand Dyed Weft. they literally dyed the yarn by hand, 3 inches at a time. Only 175 pairs made, will be online later this week!

That is like... Almost no stretch, just like Vintage Label. FYI, I've got about the same numbers on a pair of 0701's.

Doesn't matter though...

Looser weave + lighter weight = greater stretch. The grand indigo has more give than vintage labels, fact. They are still momotaros so the stretch will be minimum, just slightly more than vintage labels

anyone have experience with the Elephant 3s? haven't really followed this thread, though i have looked at how to size WG elephant 2s -- vanity sized 2inches. Was wondering, how much do they (Elephant 3) stretch with wear if anyone's had experience. Don't wanna end up with an extra inch or 2 in the waist. (aka APC - though i have mucho experience w/ those)

The E3's is A much looser weave than the E2's. therefor it will move with your body a lot better. Expect 1" waist .5" thigh. They will move but not anything like your APCs

I sized up and the thighs are still preeeetttyyyy tight. However, I feel if I can get a little stretch they'll be extremely comfortable, second skin, type of denim. Really loving the color

  

I went TTS and they are pretty damn slim.

The taper is a pretty aggressive one, and if I get a little stretch they will fit quite nicely.

Don't worry the grand indigo fabric has some give. It is a looser weave than the vintage fabric and will stretch slightly more with some wear. I went skin tight and after a week of wearing they have stretched almost .5" in the waist and .25 at least in the thigh. They are fantastic jeans

Getting a very special shipment of a new N&F denim, which hasn't been advertised. Should arrive at the workshop in a week or two 

will post when it arrives

is here anybody with a pair of left hand twills in the super skinny guy cut?

my problem is the following: Currently I wear a pair of Japan Heritage in the weird guy cut, size 29. (Un)fortunately I lost some pounds so they got too big. I'd also like to have a more fitted look so I tried on a pair of LHT in the super skinny guy cut in size 29 (they had no 28 in stock) which fitted perfectly in the leg but I could button them up to the top. They fitted snug but not that problematic.

I'm now torn between size 28 and 29. I'm afraid that the leg of the 28s won't stretch that much and that they'd end up looking like a legging and a size 29 which will be too big in the waist.

Has anyone any experience with the LHT? How much do they stretch and will they stretch noticably in the leg?

Due to the fact I'm from Germany they have to fit first try.

Thank you guys! ]

the LHT fade fast, and beautifully. The thigh is generally more important than the waist because it will not stretch as much. Expect 1.5" in the waist and .5-.75" in the thigh after 30+ wears

^^^to kinda go off what rosarkar said,

the flathead collabo, oni collabo, Kamakazi attack(although theyre skinny guys), the japanese heritage. So technically its not really even their denim.

what they do with the collab jeans is give the other companies their measurements of the wg's & skinny guys and the companies like flathead oni, ect produce the jean....

a lot of times the collab jeans tend to have a really really short inseam after a soak due to a lot of them using unsanforized denim.

 

Nailed it. 

N&F use so many different mills that it's very difficult to pinpoint what mill they used unless it is a collab, details will pretty much be the same throughout all N&F denims. Except the Black Twill Chino, they used Black hardware, and have Canadian maple leafs stamped on the inside rivets which is a nice detail to see from them.

I didn't know that Momotaro seems to avoid the GTB / GTW term now. But when I explored the brand back then, they did use the term and did have four labels / styles:

-vintage (0201, 0901, 0701, raw versions, no pocket paintings unless on special request, 15,7 oz),

-GTB ( SP models with Samurai battle stripes, probably linked to the Momotaro tale. Same cut and denim as the Vintage Label, but one wash),

-Copper Label (with a patch that wasn't sewn but riveted on, lighter and royal blue denim, around 14 oz) and

-Gold label (Natural Indigo, incredibly expensive, gold buttons).

 

The Vintage label had blue or green flashers, the GTB had red. I still have them, can take a picture if somebody offers a reasonable bribe.

 

I am not on par with what they do now, as all those Japan Blue Models got me extremely confused and also in my opinion, weren't well divided from the more expensive Momotaro Jeans. I read that JB will carry blue inseam threads from now on and not get the battle stripes, so they should think alike.

 

(But I'm not as an expert of that brand as M1stral.)

 

The Japan Blue Models carried the battle stripes only to give the brand recognition. Now that they have developed their identity they have discontinued all battle stripes on JB. 

 

 

 

Is there any other reason that the SP series is referred to (here) as Going to Battle than the back pocket 'battle' stripes? The Momotaro site makes no mention of this term, where they are officially referred to as the Taking the Field label. Wondering where the Going to Battle term came from considering that's pretty much how they are known here.

 

SP stands for Special. SP models signifies the battle stripes. Nothing more, nothing less