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eiliant

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  1. interesting that this discussion has taken to talking about vintage. I have been an ardent fan of Slimane's for about 6/7 years now but I also have a strong background in vintage, having been an assistant manager/buyer at a very upscale vintage boutique while in high school. despite Hedi "being influenced" by vintage, his latest designs at Saint Laurent are more perfected versions of vintage clothing than anything else.

     

    take any "vintage inspired" Saint Laurent piece (perfecto, varsity, ss13 50s tuxedos, fw13 moto boots, etc) and try to find a vintage item exactly like it. You can get close, but Hedi's versions are perfected versions of the vintage pieces; as he updates the fit, and changes the design ever so slightly to clean the piece up in a way that ive only noticed in his designs. for example, the fw13 varsity has an unparalleled fit like a tailored item, but it feels and looks like a crisp and more minimal jacket than any vintage varsity I have ever seen (yes, even deadstock ones). the only thing I can really compare this to is how when you look at some modernist architecture (ex. mies van der rohe's seagram building) you feel a sense of perfection to it, like this is what the architect designed and the structure has just enough to it that it doesnt need any more decoration and any less would be impossible. knowing hedi's interest in modern art and architecture/design theory, i can't help but believe that they influence his fashion work in some way. i wrote a paper on hedi's new saint laurent store designs last semester for a class that touches on this topic more and how his store and fashion designs are influenced by modernism, in case anyone wants to read more....

    May I see your paper?

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