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schmoses

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Posts posted by schmoses

  1. it'd be nice to beat junya watanabe with a stick. then do it again using the same stick next month. then do it again and again, month to month, while using the same stick for six consecutive years. perhaps then he'd understand what he puts people through.

  2. hmmm...does the initial ss11 comparison stem from the simplicity (a sweater, a short) of most looks? or specifically from the shorts/long boots proposal?
     
    my initial reactions were three in total. the first was "wimple me this, rick?" i love a dorky pun. the second was "this all looks so comfy." more on that in a minute. the third was "rO-tang clan ain't nuthin to f*ck with." see first reaction's reason.
     
    all of those quilted, double-faced woolen, and leather onesies had me thinking cozy, comfortable protection. protection from what? the wimples suggest sinners and project sanctity. the (sometimes) furry bulletproof gilets reinforce this proposal. the dichotomy of wimple and leather suggest an inner struggle with duality and subjugation. rick owens is a tough nut to crack so we can only know with show notes.
     
    his silhouette seems a continuation from 'vicious' but with a/w fabrics instead. that bit was unsurprising. the colour palette was mildly shocking. the assault of chocolate browns on opulent wools and long boots had me thinking givenchy a/w 11 done correctly. a colour on textile that speaks loudly for itself...and thankfully, bark free. i do appreciate the colour selections he proposed. the white seems more austere than usual which reinforces the protection point home. do not ever come near me in cold weather. ever.
     
    this might be completely off base so neg rep if you must. the owens label is growing rapidly. i'm not sure we've ever seen these fabrics rendered on his mens side. the gentleman-ly woolens, satin scarves, total wear leather, and stiff silks make me think about the italian dandies we see on streetstyle tumblrs. i wonder if rick was thinking about his version of the madison avenue "businessman," or his italian leather dandy.
     

    was it the best owens mens since exploder? no. is it nice to see a designer propel himself further away from the hammered leathers and geobaskets of life? absolutely.

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  3. dear friend, your observations are acute and appreciated. maybe my assessment was too cynical, too biting. maybe not.

     

    the major positives i took from ruby/raf's presentation was in its sheer force of earnestness. those two clearly delight in working together. most of the collection per-mutates with that positive vibe. the realness seeps through in waves versus ripples. walter van beirendonck's influence on his collections, as of late, seems to be more oblique and less literal this time. that's a nice change. also, those desirable print coats...i mean come ON. COME. ON.

     

    overall though, haven't we seen these items before? and wasn't it better the first time? edges were more unfinished, purely unfinished, the slim was less pushy and more organic, and patches didn't come off all "ah yes! raf did that for dior spring14 womens." no matter how many slogans, balloon shoes, truly eye catching greatcoats, or dictums of craft come my way, the collection doesn't come off as a new path. nor does it harken back to the good old diy's.

     

    in totality, it all seems well-intentioned, but completely naff. you know i'm not some codger pining for a 98-05 resurgence. i'd simply like him to propose something that doesn't insult my archived feelings for his archives. now, the collection is clearly solid. maybe updates on 'gattaca' gloves (raf07), nature prints (rafjil08) and macreme'd granny knits (rafjil 12) make a better impression in real time. online however, sterling simons may be selling, but i ain't buying.

  4. Does Neil Barrett constantly seem to be a little bit behind the ball? I look at his collections with a neutral viewpoint but always end up thinking that he's doing things which have previously been done, and done better. Surely he must have made a mark at some stage to be at his current level - but when? Any fans of the label here? Any collections worth looking at?

     

    j, mr. barrett cut his teeth at prada mens in the middle-to-late 90s. he had a passion for making tech fabrics go luxe. a "smart marketing" approach to menswear was his label's calling card. he was an early adopter of life/style synergy (see: varvatos) amongst the trendy xy set, connected obvious dots, and set a nice course for himself. basically, he's a businessman. this is extremely weird as he came from rca and csm. 10-11 years ago he had a knack for cutting a great trouser, then adding a sportswear ease to it. subjectively speaking, his best work spans ss03-aw04. after that, he kinda fell off a cliff.     

  5. saint laurent paris by hedi slimane patent leather trousers

     

    saint laurent paris faux patent leather jeans in 15.5cm leg cut. the trousers are sold out everywhere in this size. they are from hedi slimane's current spring/summer 2014 season as worn in the runway show. completely brand new, tags still attached.

     

    trousers are sized 32 and run small w/NO give. if you're a normal dh 32, size up one for these. measurements (item lying flat) are listed below:

    waist=16.5 in
    front rise=8.75 in
    back rise=10.7 in
    thigh=7.85 in


    SOLD

     

     

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  6. brett westfall for kzo double flannel

     

    double layered shadow plaid from kzo aw 08 collection. the item is slightly oversized so it can be worn as an incredibly dense, semi-warm outerwear item or as a shirt.

    measurements (item flat):

    pit to pit=20in
    shoulder (seam to seam)=17.5in
    sleeve=23in
    total length=31in

    fit best corresponds to a broad shouldered 46, true 48, or slim 50


    $75 shipped in CONUS
    $100 shipped elsewhere

     

     

     

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    yohji yamamoto y's extremely leather gloves

     

    fairly fantastic super stiff gloves from y's a/w07 collection. detailed piping, leather outer, lined with linen-y wool. leather straps add a nice killer chic touch. ensconced in a closet for six years, they are officially out, proud, and ready to wear.

    condition 10/10
    *never worn*



    $175 shipped CONUS
    $200 shipped elsewhere

     

     

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