Jump to content

rakis

member
  • Posts

    119
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rakis

  1. I am a convert to the CDG line...they have a dedicated section the the Dover Street Market and more likely than not, the next person will have no idea what it is that you are wearing or even smell the same as you.....

    The usual suspects have been listed but I think there is an important variable which is overlooked i.e. what the outcome of the scent is on your skin, once it has settled and mixed with your perspiration....

    The other important factor in choosing a scent is staying power i.e. how long does a scent actually last on my skin? I found alot of the usual commercial scents evaporating really quickly whereas a few esoteric ones have lasted longer.....for years, my all-time fave has been Kouros by YSL (white bottle) ....without fail, a distinctive scent that literally lasts the whole day when I put it on...same goes for the CDG ones that I have....they last the whole day and don't smell too different with the added perspiration.....

  2. Yes prices are reasonable, selection quite varied and they are efficient. Just be aware that it is Porter and not Head Porter that they sell. You can't really tell the difference anyway as there is usually a small "Head Porter" tag inside the bag. Nothing is on the outside. The other way to tell would be the particular line of product for eg. Brownie, Black Beauty, Shakti etc.

    For some variations have a look here on HP products:

    http://www.dreamreload.com/forum/showthread.php?s=5c9689343da75c8f22c4bf84d96c3f3f&threadid=36773&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

    Also for your information, here is a little write-up on Porter vs. Porter International (Taiwan based not Japan):

    Porter originates from Yoshida Company, Japan. In1989, Yoshida Company agreed in written form that Gallant Co., Ltd registering as well as operating Porter and its related trademark outside Japan.

    Porter International Company Limited, the international version created under the authorisation of Yoshida Company, was launched as an international brand in 2001.

    Two companies respectively develop their own brand, one does not relate to the other.

    In English, Porter means “a person employed to carry luggage and suppliesâ€. In French, Porter is a verb, meaning â€to carry†and “prêt-â-porter†means “ready-to-wearâ€, that is, trendy outfits. The synergy at such levels of its meaning makes Porter become the name of trendy backpack/luggage. Porter International product series is the best partner for those who values a trendy lifestyle, especially in collecting daily belongings and surprises.

    Porter International launches new product series after successfully registering the international trademark of Porter as well as the right for design, manufacturing and operation. Some of product structures are inherited from the traditional design and others are new and innovative design of Porter International. In accordance to the global market differences, the best quality products are designed to meet market demand. Porter International transforms Porter to become an international brand as to expand global market.

    Porter International is a brand which developed in Taiwan, yet it has worldwide network for design, manufacture and operation. Porter International has legal ownership of Porter's trademark.

    For Head Porter see: http://headporter.org/ (although link may be down)

    For Porter see: http://www.yoshidakaban.com/

    There was also a book released last year on the 70th anniversary of Porter which narrated the story behind the compnay as well as the very many lines that are carried by them:

    http://www.junku.fr/fr/detail.php?id=6315

    Price points are generally slightly higher for HP. Good luck and do let us know how you get on in your search. <u> </u>

  3. I believe that most of HP products are over-priced outside of Japan. Inside Japan, there is demand for them but as the runs are quite small for most items, they do sell out very quickly hence demand stokes the prices upwards.

    It has often been said that HP is of a higher grade of quality. I posted on this before but to be part of Yoshida/Porter/HP as an apprentice is a very big honour and items are hand-sewn/manufactured. This prices are higher due to that. The Yoshida company has been around for aeons in Japan and like most other trends on the streetwear scene today, it has been appropriated and adored as a consequence. I have the same bag in that pic but in olive and it costs me £75/US$140. That is about the price you would expect to pay for HP. Porter is cheaper.

    Anyway, just so I don't repeat myself, this is what I posted previously:

    Yes, there are fakes of Porter and Head Porter...the fakes are from either China or Korea.....how to tell? Well, the fabric is a good guide (for the tanker series which seems to be most faked)....authenticity cards are easily faked so that is no really a true indication of authenticity (see the number of fake Gucci, Dior, Fendi etc. bags on ebay that are less that $100 but come with an authenticity card plus the necessary holograms on the tags, card etc....)....its all fakeable so be aware....best bet is probably a hook-up/pick-up from Japan or from the store in New York (above Stussy if I remember correctly).....here is a link to Porter stuff online...have used them in the past and they are reliable:

    http://ace-company.net/~coolcat/index2.htm

    Note, this is Porter and not Head Porter...there is also Porter International....this if I remembered correctly is a brand that registered itself in Taiwan and has "inspired" Yoshida & Co. designs.....the actual status of this has been debated extensively before on another forum:

    http://www.frontallabs.com/nfrontal/web/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15384

    Decide for yourself:

    http://www.ll-porter.com/home.htm

    I have a number of Porter and Head Porter items. Head Porter does feel much better to the touch in terms of quality (for the Tanker series which is really the only one that I have bought) but workmanship is just as good for both....however, the outer tags are the same and it is only on the inside that there is a "head Porter" tag.....both use YKK zips as well....

    My personal view is just stick to Porter and Head Porter....Porter International is just as expensive but a little dubious since it is made in Taiwan and not Japan...interesting fact, iit is indeed a great privilege for those Japanese interested in becoming apprentices at the Porter factory.....also, you can actually order/customize a bag of a specific design and they will make it for you...but of course there is a waiting list and this applies for Porter products only....

    Hope this helps.

  4. Yes, there are fakes of Porter and Head Porter...the fakes are from either China or Korea.....how to tell? Well, the fabric is a good guide (for the tanker series which seems to be most faked)....authenticity cards are easily faked so that is no really a true indication of authenticity (see the number of fake Gucci, Dior, Fendi etc. bags on ebay that are less that $100 but come with an authenticity card plus the necessary holograms on the tags, card etc....)....its all fakeable so be aware....best bet is probably a hook-up/pick-up from Japan or from the store in New York (above Stussy if I remember correctly).....here is a link to Porter stuff online...have used them in the past and they are reliable:

    http://ace-company.net/~coolcat/index2.htm

    Note, this is Porter and not Head Porter...there is also Porter International....this if I remembered correctly is a brand that registered itself in Taiwan and has "inspired" Yoshida & Co. designs.....the actual status of this has been debated extensively before on another forum:

    http://www.frontallabs.com/nfrontal/web/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15384

    Decide for yourself:

    http://www.ll-porter.com/home.htm

    I have a number of Porter and Head Porter items. Head Porter does feel much better to the touch in terms of quality (for the Tanker series which is really the only one that I have bought) but workmanship is just as good for both....however, the outer tags are the same and it is only on the inside that there is a "head Porter" tag.....both use YKK zips as well....

    My personal view is just stick to Porter and Head Porter....Porter International is just as expensive but a little dubious since it is made in Taiwan and not Japan...interesting fact, iit is indeed a great privilege for those Japanese interested in becoming apprentices at the Porter factory.....also, you can actually order/customize a bag of a specific design and they will make it for you...but of course there is a waiting list and this applies for Poster products only....

    Edited by rakis on Apr 9, 2006 at 12:10 PM

  5. Quote:

    Real nice pick up - it's a piece I want to get this season. Maharishi is one of my favourite labels... But so is BAPE, haha.

    Please get it right people - MHI and Maharishi are different (like, say, Armani Exchange and Giorgio Armani).

    --- Original message by Rich_aka_Wig on Apr 4, 2006 12:10 AM

    Armani Exchange is not really affiliated with Giorgio Armani. It actually is Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani. Sub-line and Mainline.
  6. It is from Maharishi, part of the new season collection....sizing is on the smaller side but quality is impeccable......always a big fan of the bonsai camo.....not sure why there was any need to compare it to BAPE though.....Maharishi is in a very different place with quite a different set of fans, many of whom probably don't even care about BAPE and would be laughing at the idea of queueing for clothes.....

  7. Quote:

    yo, if anyone in the UK can hook me up with the Maharishi "zip hooded sweat pixel print" i see on emaharishi.com in the Men's Spring 2006 collection.

    i can pay decently.

    --- Original message by xdeadlast on Mar 29, 2006 11:45 AM

    I know the peeps at Maharishi quite well. I can hook you up if you are interested. Send me a pm and let me know your size. I'll speak to them and revert back. If its not in the main store, I can get them to source for you. They are really nice and helpful.
  8. Quote:

    Marc Jacobs is definitely gay.

    The only non-gay designers I can think of are the Japanese, Yohji Yamamoto is straight, I'm pretty sure Issey Miyake is straight and as far as I know Jun Takahashi seems to be straight, as is Junya Watanabe (not really sure about these two, if they're gay they probably keep their lives private).

    Oh yeah, Raf Simons is straight (the thing people were talkin on the internet about him and Hedi having an affair is purely rumor; during the time this rumor surfaced, according to Raf he didn't even get along with Hedi and they never spoke; there was some mutual animosity between the two until recently).

    --- Original message by Fade to Black on Mar 23, 2006 07:28 PM

    Jun Takahashi is straight. He has a wife and daughter. They were with him at the Paris show.
  9. Cheers everyone....I need to actually absorb what RingRing has just said so I'm going to go away, read more on this and then decide.....sounds luscious but I am intent on getting unwashed 21oz denim so that I can break them in (over time).....

  10. I've had an exchange of e-mails with Giles of Iron Heart and he told me that the jeans are not "unwashed" as they have been washed at least once.....so if I understand it correctly, the jeans are washed, 21oz. selvedge denim.

    Guy, how does the one wash denim compare to the unwashed ones you may have? My intention is not to wash at all but dry clean as I personally prefer to wear unwashed denim.

    Anybody can comment on this i.e. how does a single wash compare with totally unwashed selvedge denim?

    Edited by rakis on Mar 27, 2006 at 08:26 AM

  11. Quote:

    i laugh at ppl wearing poor man's bapes

    --- Original message by Gogeta888 on Mar 26, 2006 10:04 PM

    Mmm, rather ignorant, arrogant and snotty observation....poor man's BAPEs?

    You mean people who are interested in a brand but can't afford it because resellers sell BAPE gear at rape prices?

    BAPE is actually much cheaper and considered cheap in Japan, only the resellers bump up prices to ridiculous points....BAPE is a poor man's Undercover, Number (N)ine, Neighborhood, Mastermind.....

    Edited by rakis on Mar 27, 2006 at 04:30 AM

    Edited by rakis on Mar 27, 2006 at 04:31 AM

  12. I was in Singapore in Feb and with my Edwins ED47s and Nudies, I was struggling in the humidity....of course I was wearing them raw and unwashed...but 21oz raw and unwashed is pretty hardcore for Singapore.....and they will smell....mmmmm.....I won't do it on those grounds....a Maharishi bonsai camo cotton snopant is definitely much more practical and comfortable...or just good ol berms'....

    icon_smile_cool.gif

    Edited by rakis on Mar 27, 2006 at 07:12 AM

  13. I have a preference for hand-wound watches rather than automatic. Personally, there is something calming about winding your watch in the morning just as you start your day, hearing the clicking sounds.....anyway, here are two great forums to post your queries:

    The big watch forum:

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/246576/

    Jetan is moderator and he is really a great guy. Most of the people on the forum and superbly helpful and knowledgeable. Of course, they love big watches as well.

    There is also another connoiseur website:

    The Purists

    http://www.thepurists.com/

    The brands tend to be higher up the luxury watch chain but these guys are pretty hadcore, the Ring Rings and Minyas of watches. Set-up and run by Dr. Thomas Mao, an extremely respected and venerated watch enthusiast, with a platoon of helpful and friendly sub-forum moderators.

    I am not sure whether the brands on that forum are within your planned budget, but there is another sub-forum within there where you can ask around for help and advice:

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/169624/

    There is also this other forum:

    Poor Man's Watch forum:

    http://www.pmwf.com/cgi-bin/Forum/webbbs_config.cgi

    Hope all this helps. These forums have loads of advice and great galleries to ogle tourbillons and different caliber movements.

    Good luck!

  14. Sounds good enough for me! Just checked out the other predecessor thread and must say, great shots of your Ironhearts! I am getting really excited about these....before I get too excited, how much are they (incl. shipping within the uk)?icon_smile_blush.gif

  15. Thanks alot!

    Mmm...still no joy...I'm a Mac user so maybe that is messing it up for me...tried Mozilla and Safari, both without joy...will try on a PC in the office tomrrow....I also just emailed giles for info....out of curiosity are the jeans about 150quid? I like the cut of the Edwin ED47s and absolutely dig the Nudies RR cut....what's the leg style on the Iron hearts? Also, as I can't see pics at the moment, are they both really dark unwashed denim?

    Edited by rakis on Mar 26, 2006 at 04:20 PM

    Also apologies for revisiting this topic which has similarly been raised before:

    http://www.superfuture.com/city/supertalk/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=9059

    Edited by rakis on Mar 26, 2006 at 04:22 PM

  16. While searching for Iron Heart jeans online (thanks Minya) I found this article:

    Are These Japanese Jeans Worth $800?

    For the purist, there simply are no others but the ones made from Japanese denim.

    By Mark van de Walle

    If I had my way," says one denim aficionado, "I would move to Japan, set up a shop right next to my fabric mill, and sell nothing but Japanese jeans." This particular fanatic also happens to be the owner of a major U.S. artisanal jeans company, and he insists on remaining anonymous in order to avoid alienating homegrown suppliers.

    Other obsessives, however, are more than willing to go on record about their mania for the Japanese version of America's work clothes. Take Rick Ayre, a former vice president at Amazon.com and the owner of several thousand pairs of jeans. Obviously, with so many to choose from, he finds it difficult to pick a favorite. "But ninety percent of what I would call my prized possessions come from Japan." Ayre keeps a few pieces in rotation at any given time and experiments with cheese graters and sandpaper to achieve the perfectly broken-in look he prefers. The ones he wears most, by the Japanese company R by 45rpm, are woven from organic cotton and dyed with handpicked organic indigo leaves. The style is called Jomon; prices start at $754 and run upwards of $1,400 if you opt for the customized seven-year wash. What makes a pair cost this much? Ayre's rhapsodic answer: "The finish and the natural dyes used by the Japanese create the most beautiful deep dark blue, which fades to a blue-green before it goes pale blue."

    The secret is rooted in the culture's ancient ways with color and cloth. America may have popularized the blue jean back in 1872, but jeans made in Japan have an advantage: To this day the Japanese variety is dyed using a technique first perfected in Awa Prefecture 500 years ago. An aishi, or indigo master, oversees the process, which begins by fermenting the leaves from the indigo plant in a mixture of sake and other coloring agents. Distilled water is slowly added, then strands of unfinished cotton are dipped into the potion (up to 28 times for some types). Finally the raw material is woven on old-fashioned looms. This painstaking method, which takes more than three months, produces cloth that ranges in shade from purple and blue-black to turquoise-green.

    For Ayre and other lovers of Japanese denim, the results are more than worth the time and expense. "Chemical indigo fades more easily, so jeans made this way actually break in faster," Ayre says. "But you just can't compare them with the subtle shades you get from natural dyes." Although the blue jean's true origin is difficult to trace—some sources cite early-19th-century south of France, others 16th-century Genoese sailors—there is no denying that America and Levi Strauss & Co. gave blue jeans their big break in the late 19th century, when the nation's workers adopted the pants as the unofficial uniform. Jeans have been synonymous with the U.S.A. ever since.

    The Japanese saw the value in our heritage well before we did. In the late eighties, before Barneys had its Denim Bar and Sally Hershberger her line of $1,000 jeans, a craze for vintage denim swept Japan, with prices climbing to $25,000. In response, Hidehiko Yamane's company, Evis (changed to Evisu, for obvious legal reasons), developed the first reproduction vintage Levi's in 1987. By the nineties Japanese companies such as Sugar Cane, Iron Heart, and Denime were crafting limited-edition near-museum-quality replicas of classics like the 1947 Levi 501 and 1942 Lee 101B. All three labels used the ancient indigo dyes that caught on with collectors such as Ayre. They also wove the cotton into denim on a type of mechanical loom that had been sitting in factory basements in Okayama, the country's weaving capital, since the seventies. These machines produced narrow fabric (30 inches wide as opposed to the standard 70), yielding a cloth with a denser thread count, a softer feel, and a finished edge. Called selvage de

  17. The link does not seem to be working at the moment. I hope its a temporary glitch. The quality looks awesome. Probably will need to drop 150q or so on these I believe (loosely converted from JPY prices)...the othe pair I'm considering are a pair of Sugarcanes (retailing for about 170q though)....need to read up on those as well....at the rate I'm going at I will probably end with a collection of various coloured selvedge jeans....icon_smile_big.gif

  18. Thanks Minya! I will need to do a little research and then decide what to do! I liked the NDG ones because they were soooo thick (I'm a bit of a masochist with raw denim I guess).....but 21 oz.!!! What's the quality on Iron hearts like?

×
×
  • Create New...