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Hi everyone, new old user here. I took a long break, from around 2010, from this scene and haven't been in the loop until a few months ago when I heard from a friend about a number of emerging Chinese brands. Having looked over their respective Taobao shops one of them stuck out and I bought my first pair of jeans in about five years (not counting APCs I've bought for work). That brand was Overcomer and I like them mostly for their toned down aesthetic (more Warehouse than Samurai) and also because they made a model we don't usually see, namely 1975 501s. These come in two versions, a regular Chinese denim and a Cone denim. Cone has always been lackluster for me so I went with the former, the Overcomer 051ss, and a pair of APC New Standards and a pair of Flathead 3001s. The 051ss come one-wash and in these photos, I've already washed them three times; first a cold machine wash after which they didn't properly dry and took on a bit of a smell. Second cold wash didnt quite do it, so I soaked them in boiling water and that did the trick. For this reason, they're much more blue in these images than when new. In short, the denim is different than most other that I've seen, because it is very hairy, not that rigid, very tightly woven and because there is no weft showing through they look almost black when new, until you compare them to an actual black fabric, that is. This is very similar to the 551zxx that I've had before, in every respect. The fit is also somewhat similar, though the 551s are a 1960s (1963?) model. I'd say these fit pretty much like a 66 cut. Note, however, that they come very short. Here's a comparison to my Flatheads: APC, Overcomer, Flathead. As a conclusion, the Overcomers are a level above the APCs in terms of denim and construction, and on a similar level to the Japanese brands that are popular among us here. They have a very small lineup right now and this is their only pair of jeans, but hopefully they'll be producing more. Some of their lookbook shots:
People like to make all kinds of exceptions, but nearly all of the arguments for clothing being made offshore rather than domestically come down to an outdated and often unspoken idea that "not being able to buy new clothes means that you are poor, and being poor is bad." As I know many members of this board can attest, buying used clothes often means buying better clothes, and that's a part of high fashion that I admire. While there are exceptions like the Helmut Lang "art exhibition" of shredded clothing or Chanel burning clothes that do not sell, many high fashion manufacturers clothes get bought, sold, resold and resold many times over. As they are shared between admirers over multiple years they are still pieces that can be sought after. Knowing that the clothing you wear is desired by another person creates a chain of responsibility, and the better care you take of your clothes the greater your reward when it is passed on to another person. That cycle of buy, sell, resell and resell is what I'd much rather see for the clothing industry as a whole. Buying disposable clothing at the expense of a full life for another human being is not a "luxury" that anyone deserves, itâ€™s fucking stupid. To me, this doesn't seem like a tremendously difficult idea. People have been doing this for years, especially in big families, and to have a societal shift to this way of thinking would hopefully disrupt the exploitation of "third world" countries by multi-national corporations. This exploitation, of course, is of this country's citizens and not its governing elite. Also, a fun game to play: name a "third world" country that got there by the whole country being lazy and no one wanting their country to be better.