StrangeNeil

For those of you complaining about high overseas retail prices -  if you had your own store selling McCoy's, how would you price it?

Remember after shipping and import duties, you're looking at 20-25% gross margin at best for most items if you're selling at Japanese retail.

You've also got much higher operating costs - rents and wages in Japan are much cheaper than London, SF, NYC, Paris, etc.

If you're smart, you'll add in a buffer for constantly moving currency exchange rates too.

Bottom line, it's not sustainable to price it in line at Japanese retail prices because the costs are much higher for overseas dealers.

It looks like the armholes are a bit high/tight. Is the jacket comfortable to wear? That horsehide will take awhile to loosen up but it doesn't stretch a meaningful amount. If you like the way it looks and feels, keep it -- but you could size up and not look like a child wearing his father's oversized suit.

If you're in the US, give your local friendly McCoy's dealer a call. I speak proficient English, can provide size charts and might even tell you an engineer joke if you ask nicely. I do a lot of these types of orders for S&S, just drop an email to [email protected] for more info...

7 hours ago, JohnnyUtah247 said:

Anybody that picked up the new 0A02’s be aware that in a hot machine wash the patch will fade a lot which wasn’t the case with my older pair of 0A01’s. Not a big deal to me as it’s happened with previous pairs of Roy’s so it’s something I almost come to expect, but if you care about the patch you may want to hand wash. 

 

Anyways, the jeans themselves look and feel amazing and it’s cool to see the change in the color in the weft compared to previous models. I also love the red chain stitch. 

Good point - the ink on the leather patch is not as durable as on the paper patch - but the paper patch eventually disintegrates with machine washing too. So it's a pick your poison type of situation....I just prefer the look and feel of the leather patch, so we go with that.

Our latest delivery of OA-02 jeans just dropped - see them here

These are done up in an all-new XX3 fabric, which, typical for OA, is very subtly different from their previous XX2 denim. The XX3 fabric feels a bit hairier and stiffer than the XX2, but the shrinkage is the same between XX2 and XX3 fabrics. It also has a grey weft compared to the white weft on the XX1 fabric.

The OA-02 is one of our magic fits - it looks good on damn near anyone, from Mari at the shop with a 27" waist all the way up to a 40" waist for bigger guys.

S&S exclusive details include a custom leather patch, longer pocket bags, poly-core thread used on all stitching, special waistband label, longer inseam length (40" length on waist sizes 31 - 40 [shrinks to ~ 36.3"]. Waist sizes 27 - 30 have a 36" length (shrinks to ~ 33").

Here's some fit photos, and some denim porn macro shots of the fabric and some other details.

Full album link

If you're interested in purchasing a pair, you can find them here. We do complimentary chainstitch hemming on all Ooe Yofukuten jeans as well.

18 hours ago, kaloph said:

Happy for all you who were awaiting an 02 restock, but any rough time for OA01s? They might be my final, final pair...

We have more OA-01s arriving around Aug-Sep....not too far away!

23 hours ago, JohnnyUtah247 said:

do you anticipate them to sell out rather quickly? I really want to get in on these 

Every time we get an OA restock it's bigger than the previous one, and they always sell quicker than we think. You can always email [email protected] if ya wanna reserve a pair, we can do that for ya.

22 hours ago, Josh'N'Roll said:

Excellent. I've been checking out the OA02 size charts on the S&S site and running complex sizing calculations at home. I hope to have my size dialed-in by the time you take receipt of the restock. 

Right on! Basically, the waist band is going to stretch back the original unwashed size, but you'll lose inseam length and room in the thighs/knees, although not a dramatic amount. 

We'll be getting our OA-02 restock towards the end of this month / early August.

17 hours ago, Josh'N'Roll said:

I don't know for sure, but I contacted them today about sizing for the new OA02-XX3. Restock has to be coming any day now.

These will be raw - so sizing will be the same/comparable to our previous raw OA-02 deliveries.

We do special orders from The Real McCoy's regularly, for items we regularly stock and for items we don't. Delivery usually takes about 1-2 weeks, you can email us for more info...

Stores located in Japan selling McCoy's are not supposed to ship outside Japan per a dealer policy...





 

The Golden Gate Denim is a slow fader - the warp yarns are twisted less resulting in deeper dye penetration. It takes a bit to start fading but it will get there. The OAXX denim fades much quicker.

We have more moleskin Cossack jackets on the way as well - should be here sometime next week.

Nice pickups! 

The loops in the armholes of the N-1 jacket are so you can hang it from a clothesline to dry. 

Based on our shrink tests, you'll lose about 1.5" in length. Waistband shrinks but stretches back out quickly. The denim is custom made in Japan for The Real McCoy's.

The jeans do use 100% cotton thread for stitching as it's more historically accurate and sews up and ages a bit different than poly-core cotton thread. Keep in mind you'll have quicker stitching failures - the jeans won't explode after 3 months into a smoldering pile - it's more like a car that needs its oil changed every 3,000 miles instead of 6,000 miles. Just a little bit more frequent routine maintenance and it will all be fine. 

Leather patch is made from deerskin leather.

Just so you guys now, the '18 F/W The Real McCoy's Mfg. Co A-2 jacket has an updated fit - mainly it's slimmer in the biceps and forearm than previous version of The Real McCoy's Mfg. Co A-2 jackets.

If one of their military items says The Real McCoy's Mfg. Co in the product name, or the neck label - that means it's not an exact reproduction and usually has a modified fit to be more contemporary. Other small details may be adjusted as well. You get the 'soul' of the original vintage jacket but with a modern fit.

If the jacket product title has another manufacturer - Rough Wear, Aviation Togs, etc - then it's an exact repro of a vintage original, down the fit. They will fit differently than The Real McCoy's Mfg. Co versions - generally the exact repro jackets are shorter in body length and boxier. 

Yup we do free hems on all OA jeans, all done in-house on a Union Special 43200G. Just shoot us an email if you want a hem, we're in the process of launching our new website which will have the add-a-hem feature....

18 hours ago, tigermilk said:

I would certainly be down for an Ooe contest. Would prefer an 01, 02, or 03 cut.

 

Also, I’m a skinny guy that doesn’t wear big boots or have big calves, but the 01 cut still looks and feels so good on!  

 

I’ve been wearing my pair of OA01 in the new OAXX2 denim for about 2 months. Does anyone feel like it fades a bit more quickly than expected?  Maybe I just got used to the slow fades of the Golden Gate denim... Anyway love it all, fades or not. 

 

The Golden Gate Denim is a SLOW fader! The OAXX fabric fades quickly compared to most denims we're used to, and significantly faster than the Golden Gate Denim.

This sounds great to me and Jeremy. We've been sorting out a special collab jean/pant for Denimbro for the past 6 months, so the Denimbro pant will be first in line. That one will be a late 19th / early 20th century work pant in 10oz or lighter fabric - so very different from an OA-01 or OA-02 jean in a special denim...

We got our delivery a couple days ago. When raw the waist measures around 2" bigger than the tag size (size 30 measures 32").

Gen (who works at the shop) got a pair, fit is similar to the Ooe Yofukuten OA-01 cut. He didn't size up, when raw it fits snug in the waist and it stretched 1" after a day of wear. He's doing a soak tonight and we'll post up post-soak measurements as well as post-shrink-post-wear after they stretch. He's going to wear them exclusively for at least 6 months so we can get a good idea of how the denim evolves. We'll have them on our webshop soon.

9 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

So they are also really sanforized? See, that's the thing I don't get with RMC.

They claim to reproduce the iconic 501 and also the fabric of the time, developing it over 2 years and then sanforize it...

Yeah I know they did it probably to make the sizing easier and Tsujimoto said he only takes inspiration of the items he recreates, still I think it's odd.

 

EDIT: thanks Neal for stepping in and saying the fabric is unsanforized

You're welcome! A lot of info on the web gets mixed up, either due to wrong information or translation issues. We always confirm our product details directly with McCoy's before putting them up on the web (forums, our website, IG, etc). 

1 hour ago, Foxy2 said:

I would expect to see shops like S&S to offer them for around $350, if they are going to stock them - it’s only Superdenim/RMC London that goes for +$400...

if they are worth a specific amount of money is highly subjective and depends on what $400 are worth to you. I can say that Red Cloud or TCB can be a lot of fun at a fraction of the cost. Personally, I would not recommend them as a beginner’s pair.

the more serious Japanese labels play in the price region of $280-350 these days in order to capture their overhead cost (incl. profit) and, more importantly, to make a distinction.

we have seen former brand deciples turn their back on RMC based on quality concerns - only to go for the next higher price level...

We'll be stocking the new Lot 001XX jeans although our price will be closer to RMC London as the USD has weakened against the yen recently. 
EDIT: our price will be around $365 which is congruent with the London store's VAT-free USD pricing.

I did speak with RMC about the new denim - they've spent a significant amount of time developing the fabric from the yarn level up. After 2 years of development they were happy with the result and went into production. The denim is unsanforized, crispy at first, with just a little bit of slubby texture visible when raw.

One thing to note on McCoy's jeans - they use 100% cotton thread as it sews up and ages differently than modern poly-core thread, which McCoy's prefer for the more vintage-correct look and feeling. The cotton thread may result in blowouts sooner than poly-core (depending on how hard you wear your jeans) - no your jeans aren't going to fall apart, but they could need service a little sooner. I don't think this will be too much of an issue with the Lot 001XX as the cut is much fuller.  have a number of pair of OA jeans with 100% cotton thread and I haven't had any issues with thread failures. 

We're working on a couple new projects with OA, they'll be entirely new silhouettes you haven't seen them make before. 

OA are visiting our shop in Oakland today and I'll post up some pics of the pants they had at Inspiration.

Pull-on boots (or slip on sneakers) are a must when I visit Japan...

Nice work, pudas!

Any advice on sizing buco j-100? Real McCoys London states that you should pick your normal size, S&S advices on sizing up. The measurements they provide are quite similar though.

If you want a very slim-and-trim fit, go true to size. Size up if you want to fit a layer underneath it. Happy to send you some more detailed fit pics if you like.

Anyone know how denim shoes hold up? Asking because I got some Epaulet leather sneakers and man are they durable but John Lofgren's champion shoes are looking mighty fine as well. Beaters to my beaters.

They hold up very well as long as you're not abusing them - kicking belt sanders, climbing cacti, playing tug of war with your great dane, etc....

Thanks for the sizing help gents !

They look great. What can you speak to as far as construction and general feel.. FEEL of the shoe ? What would you say to a guy who can't come out and hold them in his hands ? Construction , etc -- I appreciate it

They are exceptional compared to your traditional run of the mill sneakers. Converse low tops look cool but they've use flimsy materials, "just good enough to not piss you off" construction quality, and most importantly - they're awful at doing their job of supporting your feet and body. 

First thing you'll notice about the Lofgren sneakers is how heavy they are due to the substantial amount of extra rubber used in their construction. They're reinforced at major stress points, every single component used their manufacture has been upgraded. Lofgren is using sugar cane denim in these sneakers....that says a lot about them.

Your traditional vulcanized sneaker is like a pair of jeans from H&M - intended to be cheap, shitty and disposable....whereas the Lofgren sneakers are like any number of the denim brands on here that are making something special and built to last.