Big_Hoss_Butt_Floss

Picked up the Superior Labor and Koromo socks I'd been eyeing. Koromo ones feel like the thickest and nicest of all the Japanese brands I own (Kapital, Sup Labor, Chups). Not as heavy as Sock and Trotter alpacas, but much better breathability for all season wear. 

I have the 1109IC in a 38. When I hot wash and machine dry them they measure 36 but stretch back out very quickly to tagged size. I needed the extra room in the thighs so I sized up. Easily my most comfortable pair of jeans just wish the waist wouldn't stretch back to tagged size.

Bummer, if your 38s shrink to 36, then my true 34 is probably raw. No way they'll fit me, especially after a hem. Thanks for the info!

Looking at the measurements at unionmade, they've tweaked the 70s fit to have a higher rise.

https://www.heddels.com/2016/12/levis-vintage-clothing-releases-a-new-year-of-501s/

 

I have a pair a deadstock early '70s 501s BNWT at home so I can measure mine later tonight and compare sizes.

 

On that note, has anyone had any success emailing the Levis archivists for information?  My 501s are single-stitch, "6" stamp, selvedge, small-"e", WITH pocket-printed washing instructions.  All other pocket-print 501s I've seen are big-"E" models, mine is the only one I've ever seen with this combination.  One possibility is that they're fake, but seeing them in the flesh you'd never think so as all other details are correct;  the other possibility is that they are a rare transitional model when one factory ran out of big-E tags and started up the little-Es.

I've seen some Fullcount denim in the one-wash format labeled on the inner wash tags with a W at the end of the model name (for example, 1101XXW). Is this true always with FC?

I bought some 1109IC a few months ago and had them hemmed, never wore them until today. They were advertised as one-wash. On inspection however, the patch looks non-washed and there's no "W" on the inner label. Despite that, the measurements seem to match what I can find online for the one-wash variant with a size 34 tag and a perfect 34" waist.

Any idea if that missing W is meaningful or not? I have to decide to either sell these as BNWT or risk soaking them post hem where they may come up both too small and too short.

Thanks!

Thanks setterman and shoot. Based on your comments I thought I'd bite the bullet and grab the 34s, but then I found out today that I'd missed out on the sale I was following. Blue Button Shop in Toronto had the Warehouse lot 900 and 800 on sale for $140 USD. I thought the sale went until the 31st but it turns out it was one day only. I guess my purchase is on hold for now.

I have four pair of Kapital socks (2 heavy winter, 2 thin dressier ones), one pair of Chups, and one pair of the Sock and Trotter brand that Iron Heart carries.  The Sock and Trotter ones are alpaca wool with padded soles so they're in a class of their own, but if you've got to work outside in the winter, or you commute by foot in the cold, those socks are amazing.  The heavier Kapital wovens are a cut above the Chups, which feel thin and light by comparison.  I wouldn't buy thin Kapital socks in the future - in fact I didn't buy these ones, I got them in a Fukubukuro box - as they are all style and no substance.  For standard thin dress socks, Costco's Kirkland brand does a good enough job!

 

I want to get some from The Superior Labor and Koromo to continue trying out Japanese brands though.  Both of them look excellent.

Forgive my ignorant question, but how does the rise affect the waist fit of a pair of jeans? My best fitting pair right now are my Oni 546 NST which have the following:

Waist 35.5

Rise 10.5

Thigh 13

Knee 9

Cuff 8

I'm considering the Warehouse 800 as a replacement because a size 34/36 will both put me close to those measures. These come in at:

Waist 34.5 / 35

Rise 11.5 / 12.25

Thigh 12.75 / 13.25

Knee 9.5 / 9.75

Cuff 8.5 / 8.75

The 34 is obviously closer in all dimensions than the 36, but that waist... I'm not so sure I could even button 'em!

Is there any stretch to be found in these? Or does the higher rise affect the waist so that maybe I can fit a smaller size as they sit above my hips?

If you've owned these two pairs let me know how you sized!

I may scrap this idea if the cut won't work for me, as I've already got 2 pairs in rotation and 2 pairs inbound!

Ah, I see. I don't actually have them yet. And since shipping is international, probably won't have them for 3 weeks. Will be interesting to examine when they arrive!

Just bought a pair of 1109IC of of eBay for a reasonable price ($131, BNWT, unsoaked raw).  I've never owned Fullcounts before so I hope the sizing works out; I bought them in a 34, and I currently wear Oni 546 in a 36 which fit well, and also have Big John Rare 009 and Kapital Century Stone cuts in a 34 and 36 respectively which fit tighter than I'd like, but are both wearable.

 

Anyways, there's almost zero discussion of the IC version from Fullcount.  The only unique feature of this denim that I can really find is that it's broken twill, otherwise I don't even really know what "Indigo Covert" is supposed to mean.

 

Anyone ever seen a faded pair of the 1109ICs?

Sorry to distract from the Full Count discussion, but could someone please post a link to Naoki's shop? Always looking for new vendors.

Can I get thoughts on these guys:  http://imgur.com/a/xXDHt#E2oCVep

 

I'm interested in buying them; seller thought that they were deadstock 1966 501s based on the flasher, but I think these are from 1973.  Things I see:

 

-No V stitch

-6 embossed on top button

-Single stitched pocket

-Care instructions stamped on pocket bag, no sewn-in care tag

-Little "e" red tag

 

Anyone have any concerns about these being fake or something other than authentic '73 501s?

Thanks reddragon for your reply.  Do you think that a 1" shrink is a reasonable waist expectation then (which is about 3% in this size)?

 

If that's the case, then it's really the BiG measurements that are the outlier.  Hickorees and Blue Button list the size 36 waist as 35" and 34.6" respectively, subtracting an inch puts both of them into my target size range.  I can wear a tight belt to minimize stretch.

 

Knowing that they are unsanforized actually helps a great deal, as they'll shrink a bit.  Going down on a 36 will be wearable, but going down on a 34 which might be as small as 31.9" to begin with (and then subtracting an inch) I literally won't be able to put them on.  If they'll shrink a touch, then I think I clearly need a 36.

Can anyone help me with sizing for the Kapital Stone Century denim?  Every online resource has a radically different size profile.  I have to choose between a 34 and a 36, and I'm buying online as there's no brick and mortar dealer in my city.  My goal is to get a pair that is close to a 34" waist post-stretch (no less than 33") with a 12" thigh.

 

For waist and thigh measures on the size 34 I can find the following:

 

Blue in Green:

34, 12

 

Hickoree's:

34, 10.5

 

Blue Button Shop:

31.9, not measured

 

Union Made:

32, 11

 

What makes this even more complicated is that different websites say that they are sanforized or unsanforized; some websites say "sanforized, minimal shrink" but Blue in Green says "manufacturer expects 1" waist shrinkage."

 

How the hell do I size these things when all of the measurements are so variable?  Is Kapital just super inconsistent, such that lot-to-lot variations are up to two inches in the waist?

 

My concern is that I'm wearing size 36 Onis right now which started at a 34.25" waist (one wash) and have stretched to just over 36".  They fit just looser than I want.  I want the Kapitals to fit tighter than that, but it seems like a 34 is too small and a 36 is too big.  I seem to have 4 options:  get a 36 and hope that I can shrink them an inch (would take them to roughly 34" according to many size charts), get a 36 and use the cinch back to tighten them up, get a 36 and have a tailor alter them in the waist, or get a 34 and hope that they stretch.  What would you do?