Leather/Denim

@Mega, looking forward to your write up about Sauce Zhan.

@volvo, let us know how it goes with Bronson.

I'm still eyeing Bob Dong's 23oz denim.

To me, it looks like a unique denim (23oz LHT). I've asked him if he'll make a new run of jeans with the heavy denim but he said currently the 23oz denims are reserved for his jacket collection. For the price point, I think it's very worth it. 

Maybe I should write to him for a custom order when he makes a run for the jeans. Not a fan of the leather patch as well as the red Dong tab 

^^ on the contrary, I've written to bob dong to enquire about his 23oz denim and managed to get an email conversation going throughout the day. This happened last month though.

Which pair of Sauce Zhan did you get by the way? I haven't come across any Mega heavy denim from Sauce...

 

Either way I'm not made for Slim fits or I have to realize I need to size up after all.

Weird that I was thinking about the same thing too. I was thinking of getting a 710XX cut after reading all the rave reviews here. But looking at the size charts over and over again, I don't think my waist - thigh size fits into samurai's size 33 in this cut.

Anyway, I'm happy with samurai cuts that I've already have not going to take the risk with a 710XX.

^ How do you feel now that you've got one of your green selvage and 16oz denim in the s710xx wishes come true? You don't sound or at least look excited in your pic  

When Jacques posted in his instagram that he doesn't look forward to stitching gussets, it made me wonder if I am capable of stitching gussets. Well, I changed the design of my satchel to avoid a full blown gusset, but attempted it in a very small way for the pocket.

I have to agree, gussets are not easy. A lot of planning required to get it done. But I'm quite pleased with the result

Yes, I always wondered about that too. And the fact, that most measurements are stated to be the same in different versions of the same cut. Looking at BiG for example shows that they are indeed different. So I'm kind of scared of getting the upcoming 710 in the wrong size.

I'll ask Yuichi to help measure the S500OG when he has it in stock. I'll decide after that  

Thanks for the heads up!

Very true. The 500 I own was much looser, wider and higher rised than the 0500 in the same size. Pretty much what I would have expected from a 510.

I wonder if there's any specific reason they don't disclose their rise measurements.. or is it not significant to them to begin with?

S500OG16oz!

and of course the S500XX buttons

August onwards

@louisbosco, it's about time for you to round it off!

Has anybody realize the new S510OG16oz looks different from the other models? I suppose the denim should be similar, maybe it has a different indigo dye. Perhaps natural indigo? I bet this model would be more expensive than the rest.

^^ Don't worry too much about the stitching breaking down on the crucial parts. Your S510xx25ozGA-15th has triple stitches on the yoke and seat!

I own both. 

 

Dixon's are more suitable for lacing. I don't lace shit. Complete waste of money. The tooth size is just way too wide.

 

Blanchard tools in general are pretty expensive, but their pricking irons have been, IMO, my best investment. The tooth size is pretty small. Definitely recommend dropping the money. 

Agreed. I have bought 3 items from Dixon and I am not using any of them at all. They're a bit too "crude" to use for small leather items. Either that or it's just me not knowing what I bought at the first place.

I've got a round knife, a diamond awl, and a pricking iron from Dixon. I've wasted money on those. It's just not suitable for the things I'm working on now. 

However, I'm not giving up on the pricking iron yet. I'm toying with the idea of narrowing down the size of the teeth manually. Either I spoil it in the process, or leave it unused; both are equally wasteful. At least if I try to narrow it down, I might have a chance to make it work the way I want it.

Let's just see when I'll really do it. 

Edit: to put into context it was bad judgement on my part, and not a problem with the tools itself

For your information :

im wearing:

-nfdenim elephant 3(weird guy cut) size 28 *there is still a space in the waist*

-iron heart 666sod size 30 *i only can put 1finger in the waist and i dont need belts if wear this one*

-samurai s0130xj size 29 *this is the most comfortable waist that i ever had. Already hot soaked twice*

There is a different size chart between s5000vx and s5000vx21oz ?

Can i go to size 28 in s5000vx 21oz ? Maybe w27 ? I need your advise.

I want a slim straight fit and not too loose/baggy on thight but still comfortable

Thanks

Looking at the jeans you're wearing, I'm just guessing your thigh would be around 27 to 29cm. I don't think it's wise to size down to 28 or 27 . 

I suppose you'll be okay with size 29 in s5000vx 21oz. If you go down to size 28, it will be tight at the waist and most importantly your thighs. It's only 26.3 to 27.3. You might feel a lil uncomfortable there.

Thanks for the tips.

 

On another note- Has anyone tried Joseph Dixon pricking irons? Would love Vergez Blanchard, but $$$$

I've tried J.Dixon pricking irons. It's a 1/2" 8spi iron.

Just like you, I opted for J.Dixon pricking irons because Blanchard's are just too expensive. But guess what, even the J.Dixon pricking irons (supposedly cheaper but still a lot of money spent), is left somewhere at the bottom of my tool box. I've used it once or twice, and found that the slits that the tool makes is too broad for my liking using 18/3 linen threads.

I've gone back to the Japanese diamond pricking irons (~1.5mm between prongs, ~3mm per stitch) ever since. And it's way much cheaper than J.Dixon's.

I don't have any experience with Blanchard's though. From what I've read so far, the slits that Blanchard makes are supposed to be smaller and more suitable for 18/3 or even 25/3 threads. I've seen it somewhere lying around in one of the photos posted here. Maybe Nicholas Hollow or Jacques. I suppose they can provide a better comparison between J.Dixon and Blanchard.

Just backtrack a few stitches once you've finished the whole length, then try to hide the ends

And I think your stitches look clean.

On wallets, are you guys punching holes straight through the 2-3 layers of leather?

I'm normally working with 3-4oz leather, so it's still possible to punch holes through 2 layers of leather

If it's too thick, you can punch the holes separately. 

yeps you guys are right. it's the s510xx25ozGA

Have to thank b_F for compiling the fit guide. It definitely helped me size my samurais. It's spot on for both the s510xx and s5000vx

Cross post from leather thread:

Not much fades yet from the jeans. Rotating it with s5000vx

Oversized Mid Wallet

 

 

 

And a bonus fitpic: