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HELMUT LANG A/W 1997 Reverse Raw Polypropylene Denim Jeans

 

 

 

 

When asked about turning down an offer to work as the head designer of Balenciaga, Lang famously stated: 'It’s about America. It’s not about couture.' Lang's enduring fascination with American sartorialism was closely linked to its most iconic identifier, blue jeans. In retrospect, fashion critics have widely acknowledged that Lang's sophisticated take on classic jeans designs was catalytic in the transformation of denim garments to highly conceptual fashion items with groundbreakingly high retail prices.

 

For A/W 1997 -the first winter collection of his year-old Helmut Lang Jeans label- Lang opted for subtle designs with unexpected touches that quietly revealled his cerebral avant-garde aesthetic. This rare pair of jeans is made a reversed raw denim fabric consisting of 33% polyproplene, a one-of-a-kind material that was developed exclusively for Lang and only available for one season. The unwashed fabric has an extremely structured drape (similar to 18oz rigid denim) and its lighter-coloured weft (reverse side) has a faint metallic luster. Over time, the substantial body of the fabric will soften and beautiful dark blue fades will emerge. Read more

 

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RAF SIMONS A/W 2005 'History of My World' Broad-shouldered Military Jacket with Architectural Pleats

 

 

Military outerwear has been a consistent point of reference for Simons's designs: On one hand, his early work often engages with and subverts depictions of discipline, masculinity and order - concepts closely tied to martial culture. On the other, he also appears to be interested in the ways the strict principles of formal uniforms are distorted when worn by young people, such as the teenagers that were casted as runway models during the early years of his career. Collier Schorr's 'Base Portraits/Barracks' photos from the 'Raf Simons Redux' publication precisely capture this idea: a young man stoically wears an 'Eisenhower' jacket from WWII. Instead of creating an image of pristine masculinity as originally intended, the jacket's square proportions engulf his narrow frame, highlighting the appropriative act occurring when a slender-framed teen wears a garment from a bygone era that was created for someone possibly older and bigger. It is this nuanced and profound appreciation of the experience of youth that characterises many of Simons's creations.

 

Designed around the same time as the Collier Schorr photos, the jacket features a wide-shouldered cut that tapers considerably towards the waist for an innovative top-heavy silhouette reminiscent of vintage military uniforms. The design is inspired by mid-century military tunics and features a strong shirt-style collar, large patch pockets and a belt on the waist. Thoughtful details such as the symmetrically placed snap buttons on the collar and a zipped compartment on the top of the front placket create a thoroughly modern feel. At the back, beautifully executed pleats add further volume to the structured silhouette while subtly echoing the design's regimental origins. The result is a serious statement piece that combines traditional form with avant-garde experimentation.

 

Introducing HELMUT LANG footwear at ENDYMA

 

In line with the nuanced and sensual aesthetic of Lang's tailoring, Helmut Lang footwear features timelessly modern silhouettes that combine groundbreaking materials with a clear focus on traditional craftsmanship. Materials include neoprene, metal and vegetable tanned leathers, complemented by hand-finished details and the designer's signature clean lines.

 

A/W 2003 Calf Leather Fitted Mid Platform Boots with Metal Heel

 

A/W 2004 Bonded Techno Mesh Laced Ankle Boots

 

A/W 2001 Neoprene-Bonded Kid Leather Ankle Boots with Harness

 

 

 

S/S 2003 'Consumed' Compact Stretch Jersey T-shirt with Asphalt Print

 

 

S/S 2005 'History of the World' Basketball Tank Top with Texas Pieces Print

 

S/S 2003 Techno Mesh Sweater with Geometrical Ribcage Detail

 

A/W 2003 Cotton Drill Biker Jacket with Removable Collar Insert

(Reissue of a 1999 design)

Burberry Prorsum 2008 Silk Gabardine Trench Coat with Leather details

 

This Burberry Prorsum trench coat is an example of Christopher Bailey's heritage-inspired sartorialism at its most opulent. Crafted from Burberry's traditional waterproof gabardine fabric in pure black silk, this luxurious one-off showpiece features a sharp slim cut and directional vintage lambskin trims. In our view, it acts as a beautiful reminder that -to quote Tim Blanks- 'there was once a time when Christopher Bailey was shaping an idiosyncratic little personal fashion statement out of a 155-year-old heritage brand'. Explore our Burberry Prorsum collection here.

 

 

HELMUT LANG bags and accessories

available at ENDYMA

 

 

A/W 1999, Cargo Vest Pack/Backpack with Crossover Back Straps

 

 

S/S 1999, Asymmetrical Waist Pack with Leg Strap

 

 

S/S 1999, Modular Cargo Bag with Waist Belt

 

 

S/S 2004, Crushed Metallic Leather Zipped Evening Case

 

S/S 2004, Men's Handcuff Bracelet

 

 

 

RAF SIMONS streetwear

available at ENDYMA

 

 

 

A/W 2001 Riot Riot Riot, Oversized Bomber Jacket with Detachable Sleeves

 

 

 

S/S 1999 Kinetic Youth, Soft Jersey T-shirt with Kinetic Youth Badge Print

 

 

 

S/S 2004 May the Circle Be Unbroken, Vintage Overdyed Jersey T-shirt with Enlightenment Print

 

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER basics: 2003, 2003, 2007

for men and women: currently available at ENDYMA 

 

 

 

HELMUT LANG 1997 rugby shirts w/ rubber accents

for men and women: currently available at ENDYMA

 

Hello Caveat,

 

You are welcome to visit our stock room in south London to get a more in-depth view of our inventory. Please send us an email to arrange your visit. 

 

This exceptionally rare shirt by Ann Demeulemeester is from S/S 1997, the designer's third collection for men. Its clean lines are disrupted by an asymmetrical layered panel on the right shoulder; when the piece is worn, the disconnected sides of the panel move for a subtly dishevelled effect that is quintessential Demeulemeester. Available here

 

 

Crafted from coated silk canvas, this raincoat represents Helmut Lang's precise tailoring at its most enticing. A polished calf leather complements the luxurious fabric, while the intricate semi-raglan shoulder construction lends a cerebral elegance to the minimalist design. Available at ENDYMA

 

  

 

This evening jacket from Raf Simons's A/W 2008 collection is a beautiful example of the razor-sharp tailoring that led to Cathy Horyn describing Simons as 'probably the most influential men's-wear designer of the last decade'. The precise modernist lines of the piece are given substance by an expertly canvassed construction and a unique metallic tweed fabric. Available at ENDYMA

 

 

  

 

  

 

The sporty elegance of Burberry Prorsum’s S/S 2008 collection was complemented by hard-edged luxury in the form of striking metal embellishments and regimental detailing. This statement bracelet is one of the most sought after accessories in Burberry’s history, and sold out instantly when it became available in the brand’s online store. Available at ENDYMA

 

 

An elongated waistcoat from Ann Demeulemeester's S/S 2010 collection. Combining the designer's effortless aesthetic with a simple yet flawless construction, this versatile piece makes for an ideal summer staple.