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Posts posted by the spirit
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Max, would you please add me to the list as well? I'll be middleweight with my Joe McCoy 991xh.
BTW - anyone else having issues logging onto the DWC forum after signing up?
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Post pre/post soak measurements please!! Had my eyes on a pair of these for a while but couldn't figure the sizing / shrinkage
Decided to go ahead and commit to the size 31 (991xh). Glad I did not trade 'em for the 32's as these didn't shrink as much as I expected. I even did two full warm soak/dry cycles 'cuz I was certain the first round didn't get all the shrink out. As it turned out, second soak made very little difference. In response to above: Pre-soak: W: 33.75; L: 34.5; Thigh: 12; Hem: 7.9. Post-soak: W: 32.75; L: 33.0; Thigh: 11.5; Hem: 7.75. I normally wear a 32, and these 31's pretty much fit like a 32.
Post-soak fit:
...so it looks like I'm all set with my DWC pair.
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Totally, Absolutely, Most definitely, 100% certainly NOT sanforized. But thanks for that... uh advice?
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Picked up a pair of these 'cuz I'm thinking it might be fun to participate in the DWC:
Pre-soak is looking mostly correct, only concern is that the waist/top block might tighten up a tad much post-soak:
...debating whether to go for it with the soak, or trade these 31's in for 32's.
(love, love, love the denim, construction, and simple solid details)
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Awesome! I reckon the boy's gonna need every last inch of those rolled cuffs two years from now...
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^not quite, maybe 2.5 after all shrinks are out.
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Too complicated? Perhaps, ha ha! I mean who'd think to take something as basic as jeans and scrutinize every last detail through hours upon years of fine-point discussion, comparison, selfie sharing, etc.? I can't think of a group of people who would do such a thing, can you?
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i feel this is getting way to complicated. why worry about which division/category you're in. just wear em and enjoy the process!
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^cut out a square yard of your denim and put in on a scale
Or if you have cut offs from hemming, you can do it with a square inch of fabric and extrapolate.
Or you just estimate by checking the shrinking rate. Say the denim shrinks 10%, it is a consent that the weigh will increase by 10%. Meaning for your 14,5oz denim and 10% shrinkage = nearly 16oz post wash
Not so fast!
If we want to get technical: shrinkage is typically given as percentage change in linear measurement while weight is given per unit area. This means you need to divide the denim weight by the new AREA of the shrunken fabric to give you the new weight. So for example, if your denim is 14.5oz and you get 10% shrinkage, you'd need to do this:
14.5oz / (0.9 x 0.9) = 17.9oz*
I believe the difference is much larger than most people expect. (What it also means is is that those 22 or whatever ounce sanforized IH jeans, while badass indeed, are not quite as badass as you may think, relative to other "lesser" weight raw jeans).
(*this is a correction from my previously flawed math!!! - the change is even bigger than I thought!)
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On other news, I'm not just lurking here to show off my mad math skills - I'm actually considering doing this competition thing. Been eyeballing some Joe Mccoys (991xh). Gonna see if they'll work for me. Wasn't planning on resting my FC's at this point, but maybe...
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Aho, I've washe'd em 4 times over about 7 or 8 months edefective daily wear. That's more than ideal imo, but there's just nothing else you can do when your 1 year old girl yacks on your jeans!
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John, those are 1109xx.
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xx denim is stubborn stuff, but after having these for a year I feel like I'm just finally getting to know and love them:
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I'm looking at getting a pair of 1108's but I'm not sure if I should get the 13 or the 15 oz version.either way I would be looking at the xx versions. Is there much difference between the denims? Does the 15 oz stretch the way the 13 oz does?
...Actually, only in the case of the 15.5oz. option would you be getting the xx denim. As far as stretch goes, I can only speak from experience with the xx, and I'd say it's pretty much around average in that respect (In all other respects though, it is off the charts!). I reckon the lighter flagship denim would stretch a little more, seeing as how... well... it's lighter.
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Haven't updated here in awhile - 1109xx starting to show a hint of their potential after about 4 or 5 months of effective wear and 3 washes...
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Iron Heart Winter Shirts, Jeans, Bracelets, & Wallets
Just in time for the colder months we've received three new Iron Heart shirts and a restock of all their jean models including the 634s, Devil's Fit slim cut, and more.@Kiya, I assume you do not literally mean "all" their jean models - I've been wanting a pair of IH super-black FTG slims (or even the black overdyed model) for some time now, but they don't appear to be re-stocked. Any word on when or if that will ever happen?
Thanks!
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Hey Kiya, I love the materials selfedge uses on their denim. I was wondering if you guys will ever make a very skinny cut? I'm looking for a pair of selvedge with dope fading properties and around 20-25 oz in weight. The problem I'm having is the leg opening. I'm a true 30 but I can never find a pair that has a 6 inch leg opening, even including all the shrinkage. Looks like my only option would Be Saint Laurent Paris' 15.5 cm selvedge but they don't compare to the fading properties of your stores denim. I was looking into the SEXIH22-301s thinking about tapering them but I want to keep the selvedge line. Please Kiya, release a really tapered pair of heavy weight denim. I beg you!!!!!!!!!!!
@Manok - it is possible to taper any pair of jeans to whatever leg opening you want. Any tailor who knows denim (and definitely use a tailor who KNOWS denim) would know to alter the inside leg seam and not mess with the selvedge seam at all. Of course some around these parts would consider it blasphemous or whatever but those people need to find something more important to worry about if we're honest...
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Here's a fit picture... I like stacks so deal with it! ;-)
Hey @peacedoff, great fades and perfect fit. How did you size on those? I ask because from the SE size chart, it looks to me like they might run small compared to other brands...
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Does anyone know how the size of the pocket bags compares to either PBJ or Red Cloud? Or even Levi's or Flat Head? Just a but curious for when I grab the special pair. PBJ's pocket bags are the perfect size but Red Cloud (and even Sauce Zahn) or incredibly tiny
FWIW- my PBJ's (007) pockets are about an inch deeper than my FC's (1109). Both can fit a phone, if that's how you roll, but prolly more comfortably south of the hip bend in the PBJ's...
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Luckily scored a IHM-04, size L. Would have preferred XL for layering, but you can't be picky with so few jackets made. Dispite the shoulders that could use 1" more I'm happy with the fit. The Alpaca is super warm & soft, the fabric dense and warm and the colour amazing. Inbetween a dark petrol and black/very dark navy.
Love this coat, Max! Is that the navy blue or the black? And where did you buy it? ...if you don't mind sharing. I'm not seeing any availability. (of course, if you decide the L is too small, I'd take it off your hands )
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@Atzec, that 1110 looks good - really like that profile, glad to see some fit pix.
Some character is finally starting to show through on my 1109xx (my bike seat's contributions especially!).
This is them after about 3mo. effective wear and their first machine wash a couple days ago:
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Starting to come to life! How long you been wearing those? I'm a couple months in on my xx's and besides a couple of dirt smudges, they're barely showing anything yet...
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I'd vote for the 35's for you. For reference, I'm wearing the 1109xx which is essentially the same as the 1108's above the knee. Mine were a bit snugger pre-soak than those 35's look on you and they ended up fitting me perfectly (you can find my pre/post soak images a few pages back).
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you're right, now that I look again, they're tight down low, but roomy up top - kinda' like those Flat Head 3012's they put out recently. I guess the repro jeans movement just discovered the 80's...
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Full Count Denim Thread
in superdenim
Posted
I haven't actually measured, but I did try on the OW version before buying the raw. I'd say after the 3rd wash or so they pretty much fit me like the OW in the store. Of course they stretch back out a good deal within a couple week post-washing. That's with warm water machine wash, air dry, xx denim.