oranswell

Mind posting pics, and what you looking for?

 

 

Will do.  Just looking to recoup my losses is all, so E80?  Keeps saying the image extension isnt allowed here so here are links to photobucket:

 

http://s1307.photobucket.com/user/mactire3/media/P1010360_zps8441b6e4.jpg.html

 

http://s1307.photobucket.com/user/mactire3/media/P1010358_zpse43e74e8.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

 

http://s1307.photobucket.com/user/mactire3/media/P1010359_zpsb03e8c49.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

In a fit of severely misplaced optimism I got a pair of the 50/50 cotton/flax Bob Dong's there in a 34.  PM me if anyones interested in them, they're unworn as I could barely get them on   Postage would be from Ireland.

^^waist measurements for 129 are true to tag (1=28", 2=30", 3=32", 4=34", 5=36", 6=38") with rinsed and dyed styles, 2" over that for Unborn. Feel free to email me if you need more measures.

 

 

Cheers for that, I mailed you a q about the thigh measurements and the leg opening.   As a matter of interest who do you rate for sharpening or servicing your shears?

^^yep, that's right, I've had them for about 10 years now, I suppose- new when I got them. I was apprenticed to John Coggin, who used to have Tobias on Savile Row, next to where Anderson & Sheppard was (now that block's redeveloped). When I was with him we were working out of Hackett in Liverpool St. 

 

I don't have a standard chart for jeans, but please just email me if you need specific measurements of anything we have in stock and I'll take them for you.

 

Cool, cracking kit they are. William Whitely and Ernest Wright & Son still make shears and scissors as well as maintain old ones.

 

Just looking for measurements of the 129 slim fit sizes?

Nice shears are they a set of 14" old Wilkinsons?  Who was the tailor you worked apprenticed with if you don't mind? 

 

 

Also is there a size chart of post soak measurements of the Tender 129 slims?  I've looked on the shop and elsewhere and my google-fu has failed me.

A friend and I are EXTREMELY interested in Bob Dongs now...I got my buddy into denim about a year back and now he is turning into a fiend...I show him the taoboa link and he responds that he willing to pay $100's so he can say to people "Yep, got my Bob Dongs on...tuesdays are always reserved for my Dongs..."

 

Dos Equis man: I dont always wear Chinese made repro denim, but when I do, I only wear BOB DONGs...

 

 

Yeah, they look great, I'm gutted he doesn't have my size in the hemp mix :-(

Anyone know where I can get flex or hemp jeans at all?  Red Cloud don't have my size, nor do Bob Dong.

I believe Sauce Zhan has some fabrics made out of flax/hemp and cotton.

 

Cheers, ehh not to come across as a complete twat, any chance you'd know which ones?  Looking on taobao know, and it ain't immediately obvious.

I cracked and bought this Bob Dong jacket. Never experienced Chinese denim and the repo looks promising 

 

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.Lp8KHf&scm=1007.10010.517.0&id=19671992637

 

edit: NVM, my order was canceled saying they are out of stock even though the site says theres 1 left

 

 

Same thing happened to me.  Anyone aware of a company making a regular line of hemp or flax jeans at all?  Tried Red Cloud and Bob Dong but they're both sold out in my size.

Quick question Tender rinsed denim, is this equivalent to a soak?  Or are they pre-worn/faded i.e. non-raw?

Someone over at /r/rawdenim is starting to weave his own denim. Going to be interesting to see how this turns out.

 

Here's a small album of him just setting up. http://imgur.com/a/iMVW1

 

 

Looks interesting, although I would worry about the beat-up with a handowoven cloth like that.  It would be absolute murder on the wrists and shoulders to do that all day.

 

 

Thanks for the info guys.

 

No bother pal.

 

Good post oranswell, I think JWH may wish to refer to his desired fabric as loomstate in future to ensure there is no ambiguity about the denim he wants. Of course, that will still be open to interpretation!

 

Loomstate or unsanforised aye, but again its all down to the jobber as to what you get.  For obvious reasons mills don't want to let unsanforised cloth out there and with the huge operations like Cone it probably costs them to interrupt a process to let out a loomstate cloth [or maybe not that much seeing as they do it for Levis]

would have to disagree here. The construction is the same as you will find in any Asian sweatshop. I had the OD sateen, the fabric feels so cheap. You certainly get what you pay for.

 

I have the ducks as well as other more expensive articles of clothing.  They are raw, have shown fading since I got them and are of very good quality and construction.  The only thing to cause any issue was something that most workwear/raw heads fetishise to the nth degree i.e. the chainstitch breaking. 

So I'm soaking my denim in water for 20 min, then I line dry it, but I do not see any shrinkage at all??? Has my denim been pre shrunk? I was under the impression that I had bought RAW Denim/Dry Denim, but I could be totally wrong I guess. This is the first time I've ever purchased denim from Pacific Blue Denims. Also, I soaked the denim in a clear tub and the denim did not turn the water blue like I was expecting??? The denim does however turn my hands blue when I work with it dry (cutting/sewing). I'm confused, and I suspect that I did not buy RAW denim. Any thoughts?

 

JWH, I addressed some of your points in relation to pre-washing above, but just to clarify things:  Raw or dry as a description from a jobber or cloth merchant will mean that the denim is undistressed or treated/bleached.  Almost all fabrics produced in the 1st world are sanforised and have the majority of shrinkage removed from the cloth, that said it is variable and even sanforised garments can shrink 2%-3% and you will see warning labels on old workwear etc. warning of that.  It may not seem like much but it can mean a half or whole size when taken over the entire garment.

 

In unsanforised cloth you will see more dramatic shrinkage of 10%-12%.   

My first "true" Shrinkage & Fade Test!

a 12.5" axis is used to easily calculate % of shrinkage. 1/8th inch of shrinkage is exactly 1%. The cut edges are serged to keep the denim from disintegration over the 5 Wash Cycles. The Axis is repeated 3 times across the 1yd cutting, bottom left, middle & top right. The average Shrinkage is taken from all three.

 

I think I'm going to just soak the denim in cold water for about 20min. then line dry it to see how much if any shrinkage there is after that.  Then I'll actually run the 5 wash cycles to see what happens to it.  I'm trying to figure out how much to adjust my patterns for shrinkage and I think most people who want Raw/Dry denim know to just pre-soak before wearing, and then only soak every so often to clean.  I don't think I really need to worry about what happens after 5 wash cycles right?

 

 

In order to truly test shrinkage you should test the cloth at the more rough ends of its likely treatment, this would be repeated hot washing and tumble-drying wouldn't it?  I would also recommend you use metric measurements as in use they tend to be more accurate.

Anyone know where you can find high quality denim buttons. I remember finding a place that had doughnut laural leaf buttons but cannot rememer where it was.

 

 

Citron Jean mentioned above is your best bet for small quantities. http://www.citronjeans.com/

 

Ed- Bollox! double post from re-reading this thread.

Does anyone here have a mirror of the pictures that were with this thread?  It appears the hosting site is gone.

Last of the regular line [i.e. not LVC] 501 STFs to be made in the USA I think, got them in 2008 for $60 shipped to Ireland, many many washes:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe, but aren't 501 stf's not that expensive?  Just for giggles I was looking at some gustins and imo run of the mill stfs look way better.

 

Regular 501 stfs are not made in the USA.  The made in USA 501s are $180+ from LVC.  As for which looks better you're not really comparing like with like with Gustin as they don't have a long history and most of their stuff isn't old enough to know how it fades and wears.

You can BUY loomstate denim from a jobber, aka a broker that deals in 2nd rate fabric or excess fabric.  Any brand can do that, you can do that yourself if you dig around enough.  

What Roy is doing is designing the fabric and buying it directly from Cone Mills, this is something that only Roy and Levi's has ever done.  Any brand or person buying unsanforized Cone fabric outside of Roy and Levi's is buying it from eBay, Craigslist, a jobber, etc..

 

 

AFAIK Cone will sell unsanforised denim directly now, something they did not do in the past. Ruell & Ray had unsanforised as well.  As for seconds, in cloth terms its what a lot of denimheads would like specifically:  irregularity.  I don't buy Roy designing the cloth himself, not for a plain cloth like denim.  You can specify the type of twill weave as in 2x1, 3x1 rht or lht, weight and finishing.  End of the day its the mills job to weave what you want if you have the money, its not rocket science.

 

 

 

I don't understand why anyone would want a pair of Gustins....

 

 

In 1960 a pair of 501s was $6, which is $45 today.  Stan Ray's are $29, decent made in the USA needn't be three digit figures.  Denim started as workwear for ordinary Joes, you appreciate a certain aesthetic, others something else.

 I believe cone has made an commitment to levis to not sell unsanforized denim to anyone else. I tried to get a custom denim produced but i could bring myself to buy 5000 yards of shiny, flat denim (sanforized).

 

Nope, apart from Roy, Gustin were able to let loomstate from Cone, but didn't use it in the end.  Here's the Gustin unsanforised discussion on reddit: http://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1oj1w1/who_would_actually_buy_normal_unsanforized_denim/

 

 

10yds of Cone STF on ebay too http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cone-Mills-USA-White-Oak-SHRINK-TO-FIT-Selvage-Denim-Fabric-14-5oz-Textile-10y-/141165502546?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item20de1ea052

thanks

wasn't sure if it would all fall apart or something

 

There's a lot of hype and misinformation about chainstitching.  A chainstitcher is a specialised industrial machine that does not require a bobbin, meaning it can run off 10,000m cones instead of bobbins equalling a time saving in a factory setting.  It is inferior to a lockstitch in terms of durability; compare ripping out a lockstitch to doing the same with a chainstitch for instance.

Stan Ray Double Front Construction Pant:

 

Anyone know where you can find high quality denim buttons. I remember finding a place that had doughnut laural leaf buttons but cannot rememer where it was.

 

Was it Citron Jean? http://www.citronjeans.com/j_1/order.html

 

 

What are some disadvantages for using a lock-stitch on the entire jeans? I don't have a chain-stitch machine.

 

The only disadvantage is that you will have to change bobbins. 

Anyone know where I can find som good 16-19oz denim fabric?

 

 

You'll find 16oz denim at Pacific Blue.

Very nice, thanks.

No prob, I hope some makers see it and think about supporting local weaving. Apparently its sold to [uSA] Civil War re-enactors a lot for the uniform trousers.