The Flâneur

When your climate dictates that you shouldn't be wearing heavy oz's, but you love the denim, and especially the patch.

BF, is there any indication of an S510AI-24oz release?

Bill, I've been meaning to post, that I received my Tender Hook Buckle belt in size 2, which was perfect, just as you recommended —not really surprising given how intimately connected you are to your products. The quality was apparent as soon as I opened the box: a lovely seductive melange of vegetal/animal aromas, no doubt from the tanning and currying. Quality, which is confirmed in the hand and feel of the belt, including the sturdy brass buckle. Really, really, lovely, and a nicely resolved (innovative?) piece of design. A triumph! I also got a cow horn comb, which comes in a Tender stamped calico case —nice touch! A lovely little extravagance, which indeed adds pleasure to the grooming ritual.

Bump —I wish I could fit these!

bk you recorded 1.5" shrinkage post soak for your ogsp, but was there much further shrinkage with subsequent soaks/washes? Thanks!

no further soak yet. but i know someone else who experienced a lot of shrinkage so i'm sure once these jeans would hit the washing machine there would be more shrikage

Yes he does! Following 3 warm soaks (40C) my S5000AI-OGSP tag size 30" shrank from 32" to less than 30" — I put a hanger in the waist following the last soak to keep them at 30.5" — and the inseam from 37.75" to 35.5".

My highest recommendation for this service: excellent communication, fast and efficient, and exceedingly friendly. Thanks SuToCorp.

Ha, ha!... But some folks might be looking for a more subtle experience!

Cheers Foxy! Nevertheless, then a somewhat unique opportunity to see how the Z & S denim evolves.

Bonus shots - next to S0510AI-OGSP

Left hand vs. right hand denim - also, selvedge has different color.

And for the comparison shots. Will the direction of the twill — and if so how — have much effect on how the denim behaves, shrinks for example, and wears and fades?

Samurai S5000AI-OGSP

I managed to order the second AI model Samurai issued this season.

Just got it in the other day and took measurements and soaked it.

W32 - Pre-soak - Post-soak

W 17.25-17.5" - 16.5-16.75" (I already stretched it a bit during soaking)

FR 11" - 10.5"

BR 14.25" - 13.5"

T 13" - 12.5"

K 9.5" - 9.25"

LO 9-9.25" - 8.5-8.75"

IS 38" - 36.25"

Unfortunately, it got a bit dark outside - so you are only getting a few shots as I didn't want use flashlight. Will have them hemmed. In a few weeks time I will hopefully get around to take more detailed pictures with appropriate light settings. Mind, the denim has not settled down after soaking...

Thanks for the details foxy.

^ Excellent fit, details & fine lovely light-weight natural indigo denim.

Ultimately, yes, it is a question of aesthetics! But it should be reiterated that a complex meld of associations is expressed through the design of this garment. And it is a refined design, in which every aspect of the package contributes artfully to achieve a total effect. But no, it is not for everyone.

ok. Thx.

you could take the 38. the ogsp denim shrinks quite a bit

bk you recorded 1.5" shrinkage post soak for your ogsp, but was there much further shrinkage with subsequent soaks/washes? Thanks!

Exceptionally fine boots coleslawyum! Indeed vintage details with the craft and finesse of the best bench made English shoes. Beautiful!!

^yes!

Fine vest shooter. What is it?

The issue of sizing, quite understandably, dominates many of the forum threads. But I would like to ask a general question, and my apologies if I have failed to discover the answer in a previous thread — if so please direct me! It concerns the relationship between raw and one-washed denim. If a jeans model is offered by a brand in the same denim, and production lot, in raw and one-washed versions, is there an expectation that the raw will become, or at least approximate, the one-washed in terms of fit? Or is there a gulf between the two that reflects the real differences in the way raw denim is handled by the enthusiast and processed by the factory?

This question has arisen not only out of my own experience but was posed recently in the PJB thread: see discussion between shining and kenzie.

Thanks!

Carl were your Sorahikos raw? I'm a bit bemused by the Jomon raw sizing then. I bought tts 30" and the waist is 33"!

Anyone with experience of Jomon raw re: shrinkage with soaking, washing, or machine drying? Thanks!

Thanks Bill. No, I meant centre as opposed to periphery. Sorry it was not clearer. That is the second inside hole. I like belts to have a bit of latitude — much more flattering to the wearer! Also my query arose partly because some online sites recommend that your belt size should be two sizes above your waist size. So a size 30" waist should be a 32"/ size 3 belt.

Hi bill,

I'm a 30" waist. can you tell me what size I would be in the hook buckle belt if I want the hook to catch in about the second hole from the centre.

If the waist was closer to 30" I would be interested! But at 31-32" they're prob just a bit big??

Thanks foxy2. Yeah, I thought for a straight but not too snug fit that I should go for tts. Will look forward to your future postings on the s5000ai.

Hi resident Samurai guru(s) may I benefit from your experience? I want to purchase a pair of Samurai S5000AI-OGSP. I have a 30" waist and want a post-soak straight fit /not tight from get-go. So I thought tts 30. I know Samurai's posted figures aren't reliable but bigs measurements suggest that tts 30 is well on the big side! Can you help? Thanks.