Bradapalooza

These are my Alden Cordovan Brogue Wingtips -- pics are about 2 years ago -- will update with more recent pics soon.

Bonus, pretty sure I'm wearing Samurai 710xx

Just added my first pair of Samurai's to my collection. My SEXI 14s are starting to get beat up and in need of some repairs, and my APC Petits are in an even worse state than the Imperials.

Went with the S003JPs - finished their soak earlier today, fit seems pretty promising so far!

how can i get ride of the f*cking backpockets and back rise folds ?

Continue wearing them for a while + a soak = those will mostly go away.

They don't look bad in any case.

Don't really like the Weird Guy and looking for something a little more substantial as my next pair of raws. I'm going in on 2 years on my Skull 5010XX and I want a new pair of jeans. I'm looking for something at a similar weight and cut (a jean that borders between slim and skinny) and I'm looking for some suggestions... Might even go APC just because I've never had a pair.

I'd suggest the eternal 883 deserves a look. Also PBJ xx05(?) and Flat Head BSP.

Although I think I'd be most interested in the ROY narrow leg.

@bradapalooza

Thanks for the response! I just feel like I've been eyeing pbjs for forever now, and I want to be sure that I'm not just being blinded by some silly personal conviction. So pbjs tend to be hard to break in/have a lengthy break in process. Any word on Eternals, Momotaros or 3sixteens?

Well, the pbj's are dyed on both warp and weft - so the break in has a nice blue overcast to it - as far as I know Eternals have a fairly normal break-in time - Momotaros can take quite a while and 3sixteens have a pretty normal break in time. The 3sixteens are a great deal for the price - but I'm not sure I'd personally consider them a much higher quality piece then the APC's. I think you'd be very happy with the pbj's on the other hand because it is a very unique jean with all the qualities you asked for.

Just picked up my first pair of raw denim-- a pair of slim fit from Uniqlo. They are pretty skin tight in the thigh area but are perfect in the waist. Will they eventually stretch out in the thighs? Thanks.

They'll stretch in the thighs, but not much very much. Perhaps .3 inches accross (which is actually .6 inches, thighs aren't measured all the way around typically.) They'll also shrink right back down as soon as you wash them - I'm afraid thigh measurements are fairly permananent

Hi all,

I'm looking to get something new to add to my rotation, and I'm curious to hear some suggestions/feedback. What I currently wear most frequently are a pair of APC PS (tagged 29) with the following measurements (BiG method, of course):

Waist: 32.5, Frise: 10, Brise: 14, Thigh: 10.75, Knee: 7.75, Leg: 6,75

I'm looking to get something <$300 that will really require a heck of a lot of work. I'm really hoping to get something that will evolve quite slowly, and I'm not deterred by not seeing results even after several months of hard wear. So the first quality I want this new pair to have is resilience, I guess.

In terms of fit, I'm looking to go more a slim/slim-straight route as opposed to the painted on/skinny fit I've got going on right now. So I'm looking at getting something that might look like 12 thigh, 8.5-9 knee and 8.5 leg?

An obvious choice would be something like a pbj xx-005 or 007, but I'm curious to know what other people might have in mind, or what sort of sizing advice one could give for the pbjs.

Thanks in advance!

I think you'll definetely be looking at one of those pbj's for what you described. I'd reccommend you just give a call to BIG if you have sizing questions, you shouldn't have any problem considering you already measured yourself.

APC has a black version of everything I think.

You need to have someone else trace your fit, it sounds like you guys were bending down to do it yourself which won't work at all. And then the person tracing needs to have the pencil pointing straight down not bending down into your foot at all.

Well it looks like you splooged all over yourself hahaha.

Wash it wash it wash it. Not a sissy wash either, plaster can be a bitch if it dryed dug into the fibers.

You are going to lose contrast with a wash - but low contrast jeans /= bad jeans - there are great looking jeans that get washed all the time. Just put washing soap on the spot before you put it in the washer. Then put detergent in the machine also and let it go. Air dry and see what you have.

About half an inch if that. If it's really stretched you could see an inch but I doubt your denim has stretched to that extent.

btw - are you trying to reference jaz-o? or is that just a random user name or binary or something?

props if its jaz-o haha

Just wear a belt. The waist fit you described is basically exactly like my pair was when I first got them. They'll stetch some - but not too bad.

Thinfinn - go for the duck!

Lots of options for that one.

Indigo would limit the outfits you could really wear with it and the superblack isn't going to look all that much more special than a regular black jacket.

1 is wayyyyyy overkill - try a 45 minute hot soak in your sink - hang to dry but not over a clothes hanger if possible. grab one of the ones that have clips to hold the jeans. If you fold them you'll get a crease in the middle- which would go away eventually - but better to spend 99 cents and avoid it altogether. Plus hanging them with a hanger like this so they can hang with the legs and waist open can help prevent smelly jeans once you've been wearing them awhile. The only "special way" to hang them is just if you are worried about the inseam (or possibly the waist being too small, not gonna happen in your case I think), in which case you would hang them by the legs rather than the waist. Unless you have freakishly long legs - you don't need to worry.

When they are stiff they form creases more quickly - but its not really a concious choice, its more that the shrinkage packs the fibers so closely together. They'll soften back up pretty quickly.

Black denim:

Sam710 black shadow or SEXI14?

Ooooo, this is a hard one - both really great.

I think I personally would take the sexi14 - because I dig imperial's a lot.

This is sort of a competition - i don't think there will be an actual winner - but it will be updated and showcase the 5 brands.

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/113851-osaka-showdown/page__st__100

I think they still need someone for one of the spots? or maybe they'd accept additions to one of the brands already being used.

you should just be able to return them?

so i return them or not? i dont wanna make a mistake with this jeans, i dont have any experience with apc...

If your comfortable with the fit of the thighs - keep.

If your like omg too tight - return.

The fit will definetely be fine and look good - but just remember that thighs do not stretch very much. The waist and everything will fit perfect. but the legs aren't going to get wider.

The only reason that would cause testicular cancer would be all the poontang you'd be getting that tropicalbird wouldn't.

didn't it stop being cool to make fun of tight pants in like 2001?

that being said - if you don't like the thigh fit you won't get much stretch there - maybe half an inch. The waist will stretch to your body and then some.

Keep - that doesn't look like you sized down three - that looks exactly like a size down 2 for most people.

You'll be able to button that in ~ a week max.

This is exactly the common recommendation for how the waist should look on a typical APC fit when you first get them.

And why are you asking about inseam shrinkage? Planning on hemming?

It's typically not much on sanforized denim - figure about 5% max typically closer to 3%.

On size 29 and lower your inseam is stated to be 34 or 35 - so as much as 1.5 inches but much much much more likely to be a little under an inch. Half an inch to an inch is normal.

I think the 30's look good on you. The legs on a 29 will feel considerably tighter. They would stretch but if you like the way the 30's look pick those because the 29's would be skin tight (which is a fit that also looks good - but very different than the look of the 30's)

As for whether faded indigo is Art — that is in the eye of the beholder. But indigo was once, remember, one of the most precious commercial products traded on the planet. If a ship carrying indigo sank it could bankrupt whole companies.

. . . A masterpiece can be painted with $20 dollars of paint and $10 bucks for a 12x9 canvas. How is the price of indigo related in any way?

Sometimes tapering is your only option if you want a certain denim (like Sugar Cane or Oni's denim) and a slimmer cut. You could just buy a different pair, or you could get the first pair and taper them, and then be happy with both the denim and the cut, rather than one or the other

This - or peoples tastes can change while there jeans still have a lot of life left in which case it makes more sense to spend 60 bucks and get it how you like than it does to drop 150-600 dollars for new raw jeans.

if possible buy the right cut in the first place. If you feel like changing it, go ahead.

actually, last question.

Since my imperials are cuffed, so i uncuff them before soaking, or leave them cuffed while soaking?

It shouldn't really matter, but I'd go ahead and uncuff just to allow the water a better chance of absorbing at the same rate everywhere. No biggie either way though.

This is according to the people that invented the sanforized concept

their words not mine

"

Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is moistened by water and/or steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote shrinkability within the fabric. Normally, a fabric must be moistened in such a way that every single thread achieves a moisture content of approximately 15%. This allows compression of the fabric with very little resistance.

When the fabric passes through the clip expander ©, we obtain the required width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part of the machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in above figure). In the close-up of fig. 1, we see the endless rubber belt ®. By squeezing rubber belt ® between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder (RB), we obtain an elastical stretching of the rubber belt surface. The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more the surface is stretched. This point of squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or the nip point.

Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone. When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself and the surface returns to its original length carrying the fabric with it. The effect of this action is a shorting of the warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together. At this actual moment, shrinkage occurs.

After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D). Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture from the fabric.

After the compressive shrinkage process is completed, another sample of the fabric is taken. This sample is also wash-tested. The final result of this test must meet the Sanforized Standard, in length and width before it may carry the Sanforized label. "

for this reason I don't think you'll have much luck because it involves moisturizing and forcing the fibers to contract to a point of tightness where they are locked by immediately removing the moisture.

you can shrink it with steam but not to the same point as a wash will do. I'd reccommend you just don't worry about it.

On colour loss:

Samurais and Iron Hearts have high quality dying and indigo itself is NOT water soluble. Therefore, until the indigo is loosened in some fashion to allow the water to envelope and pull it away (friction and other damage to the denim causes this) you will lose no colour. The STF looses colour because the dying is not fully attaching the indigo to the denim. Plus I believe the sams and ironhearts will still have some of the shiny colour of raw denim after the soak.

For your reading pleasure and my source

Edit: being able to rep yourself + being pretty close to the edit button is not a good combo. wtf sufu?

can someone please help... my friend got gasoline on my new cures today and they're only a month old . Is there any way to get the gas or the smell out without washing out too much of the indigo?? and will the gas ruin the fade or fuck with the indigo?

it's my first pair of raw denim too.. go figure

Febreeze it and see what happens. If it still smells do ahead and do a soak (no soap). Cold or hot it doesn't matter but cold will minimize any shrinkage. Let it stay submerged for a few minutes - rinse with clean water - if it still smells fill up another bucket with fresh water and resoak/rinse. You don't want to do a long 30-40 minute soak like people normally do because your whole goal is just to get the gas as diluted/rinsed out as possible.

It might mess with the fade or indigo but I doubt it will cause them to be ruined at all - probably come out more kickass in fact.