Contrast

Tapered and hemmed my 502zr. Secret denim has amazing stretch. Probably the best pair of jeans I've had that fit my thighs. 

Stopped tracking wear and washes so carefully but ~4 years with 2 of hard wear, 1 soak, 1 ocean soak, 3 washes iirc

The double indigo 612 cut sounds like the dream. 

Tapered and hemmed my 502s. Might have gone a little too tight at the leg opening Â¯\_(ツ)_/¯

PMed

Edit: #sufudenim works, my mistake. I did #nudies which filtered it out.

how about everyone use a same #tag..

like #sufu or something...

easier to find each other..

While there are some denim photos posted under #sufu already, there are also a bunch of other unrelated stuff. How about #sufudenim for precision.

@contrasted

hi there, just wondering which one has a more tapered cut between 400H and 425H?

The 425H is only a bit more tapered but I prefer the fabric of the 400H.

Eg.

r400H

Waist 84cm

Thigh 59cm

Leg opening 20cm

r435H

Waist 84cm

Thigh 61cm

Leg opening 20cm

Updates on my Red Cloud r400 after a ocean soak and a mission on the beach in Cuba.

If only they had the r425H in the twisted yarn 17oz fabric. Instacop. Might get the r400h and taper them as the slub looks amazing.

Updates on my r400

Heading back to china this summer and I'm hoping to pick up some r400h's or a ever slimmer cut hemp. What are the dimensions of the r425? Hopefully a nice tapered cut.

it's out

Congrats on the win!

To address some of the questions that have been posed in the thread:

These are all chain-stitch machines.

The chain-stitch based machine was the first commercially available sewing machine. I believe the "modern" chain stitch was invented by James Gibbs, (needle with revolving lower looper).

As far as "roping" I am going to hurt some feelings but here it goes....

The Union Special 43200 G does not cause roping.

The reason a chain stitch hem on a 43200G is roped is two fold. The main reason is what is called feed differential; when the folder is put on the machine it affects the way that the material is metered through the machine. Many modern machines have walking feet, needle feed, or differential feed dogs to ensure that the top layers and bottom layers being sewn move through the machine at the same rate.

Like many chain-stitch machines the 43200G is a plain feed machine, which means it has a static presser foot and one set of feed dogs on the bottom. A hem consists of (mostly) three layers, when sewing the feed dogs move the bottom layer and the top layer is pushed under the presser foot, leaving the top layer essential uncontrolled. What this results in is a feeding inconsistency, the top and bottom do not move at the same rate, but since they are sewn together a pucker forms.

Without a folder this can be alleviated, but with a folder attached the top layer cannot move anywhere to flatten out the pucker, since it is wedged between the foot and the folder, which results in the roped hem. Technically this is considering a sewing defect, which is why new machines do not produce as noticeable a pucker on the hem, and why jeans made in large factories do not exhibit roped hems.

Essentially the 43200G went out of production in 1987 because of this and other issues. The 63900 Lock-stitch hemmer is much better suited for production and that is why it is the dominant hemming machine in production sewing. 43200G machines are now sought out because they when equipped with a folder create a roped hem which is reminiscent of pants from a bygone era.

To illustrate this I have included a video of a 43200G sewing without a folder and you will see NO roping.

Also to a slight degree natural fiber threads when they shrink will do so at a different rate than the denim which can also cause a slight skew, but it is minimal.

Here are a couple videos of one of my machines sans-folder

Wow great description. Thanks for clearing up the roping effect!

The translating to a Dutch friend

Haha nice Canada Goose. There's more snow in that area than in Toronto right now.

My r400H...Thanks to TSS & Rcloud..for give me this opurtunity to own this awesome jeans. by looking at feel the texture of this r400h make me stoned.

small selvedge

Nice appearence

twisted yarn culprit

Looks so slubby.

How much was it? Somehow the Tuckshop site isn't loading for me.

Fit pics of the r400 a couple of posts above

3ish months

Love the slub

Naked & Famous Weird Guy Deep Indigo

Naked & Famous Weird Guy Red Weft

Naked & Famous x Big John

Eternal 851

Red Cloud r400

Nudies SJODBT

LVC 501 1954Z-XX

Adidas Raw Selvedge x 2

I mainly bought these because no one knows about them and they're Roots lol. Fit is similar to 501's but a bit slimmer. It narrows past the knee. The construction of the jeans are very good for it's price. The details are very minimal which I like.

I'll probably put very casual wear into these. 20% discount if you have a student card.

Retail was $128, with discount after tax was $115. You'll probably find these in locations that sell denim, not all their stores.

Haha I first saw one on a dummy model at the Yorkdale roots location. I was just saw the dummy and though the fabric may be selvedge. Flipped up the cuff and voila. Went around to the table and saw it there, was surprised at Made in Canada even though I quite like that.

If Naked and Famous had access to Cone denim, I'm sure they'd make use of it. Then again, that'd probably tarnish their image as an intro brand.

Cone mills denim is probably one of the easiest to acquire. I don't really get your post, using cone mills is neither good nor bad really. LVC uses cone mills but so does many starter brands.

Update on Red Cloud r400s

around 2.5 months

Need to find a time with better lighting.

When I first soaked them I did not actually experience much shrinkage.

I'm so confused, Some are saying that the Deep Indigos fades super good and fast(including n&f) But some here are saying that they are like impossible to fade?

Depends on who wears them

Mine vs a Friend's

Started at the same time

both washed around 11 months

After wash

Fit pics at 13 months

vs

I was just wondering what models of the Red Clouds come with Twisted Yarn?

I know the 17oz r400 use it and the s423 I think. I was looking at the 21oz r400 but they use the regular yarns. The twist seems to give the jeans nicer slub and I was wondering why more models don't use it. Definately something that makes Red Clouds stand out.

I have the r400s and they are very unique compared to other wefts. I've gotten many compliments on them LOL.

For people who don't know what I'm taking about. (Taken from TSS blog)

I'll start, Jeans # 23

Good luck! It's Firebolt from RFD LOL.

Recently passed 8 months on my deep indigos and I decided it was time for a good wash.

Went to NoFrills and bought a small jug of Woolite Dark.. didn't really feel like investing too much time looking for a soap

Filled the tub with lukewarm water and some detergent, flipped the jeans inside out and pretty much soaked them in. Thrashed them around for a good 10 minutes and started seeing the oil, dirt, indigo and starch coming out. Left them to soak for half an hour and then hung dry them.

Before/After comparisons

During the wash

Come on man! Rock the fuck out of those bastards anyway!! Go true to size for a nice straight cut in the 400s...

Hey Contrast

The stretching and sizing of the models depends on denim used. There are pretty much 3 denims availaible at the mo - the 17 oz, the 424 denim and the natural, the latter two are both about 14oz I think.

The 17 ounce won't shrink or stretch much as the weave is tight, the other two will shrink and stretch quite a bit. My advice is go true to size, or MAYBE one down in the lighter denims.

In terms of styles, the 425 natural indigo is the most slim. I own a pair and they fade awesomely, and fast. 1000 yuan. However, the 17oz denim is really special, so think long and hard before passing it up.

Hope that helps!

Thanks! I decided to go with the 17oz R400s as I had to order quickly. On TaoBao they only had a 31 and a 33 so I had to order the smaller size.

On the measurement chart it says the 31 is 86cm at the waist. Is this after soaking or before soaking. Hoping this is a before the soak measurement as a almost 34 inch is way to big for me. I notice on the other pairs of jeans however, 31's measurements are a lot closer to a 31. I wonder why that it.