straightxedge

Hi guys, another episode of the making of the Ruttloff Garments - Artisan Challenge Jeans. This is part two of drawing and cutting.

Mr. Ruttloff uses the rest of the fabric for the lining of the pockets and the yoke.

The pieces from the Katagami fabric together.

Now it comes to the denim...13oz raw from the Kurabo mill.

Drawing the cutting pattern. Every jeans made by Mr. Ruttloff gets a custom fit.

Cutting the denim.

Hi guys,

it´s been a while since the last post, but now I want to give you the next sight in the making of the Ruttloff Garments - Artisan Challenge jeans.

The first step of the making were the pocket bags. We use a 9 oz indigo overdyed selvage denim printed with a nice Katagami. You can read more aubout this in my last post.

The printed fabric

Drawing the cutting pattern

Cutting the pieces for the pocket bags

Done

Mr. Ruttloff has a special way to reinforce the pocket bags.

He use a extra layer of the fabric in the bottom area of the pocket bags, to make them more durable.

The reinforcement has an accent hemstitch done by a Singer from the 1920´s.

Sewing all pieces together with a Dürkopp and a Union Special-single chainstitch

Back and front together, hemstitch and selvage detail

Today I want to tell you the story behind our pocket fabric.
Here in Dresden we have the largest collection of original japanese Katagami in the world.

The collection was forgotten in a depot of the Kunstgewerbe Museum Dresden for 125 years.

By accident 92 boxes with 16000 Katagami were found behind closets.

In the exibition "Logic Rain" by the Staatlichen Kunstsammlungen Dresden, were shown 140 of them for the first time.

They are showing the variety of the theme rain.
A Katagami is the traditional color template for samurai kimonos.

They were cutted out of Mulberry paper, that was glued in several layers and dried over years.

Mr. Ruttloff visited the exibition and was fascinated by the beauty and richness of detail.
With the love to the japanese denim culture and the japanese fabric we use for our artisan challenge project, the idea for Katagami printed pocket bags was born.

Mr. Ruttloff asked the museum and got the permission.

Marco owner of https://www.nikkifaktur.de/ and workshop neighbor of Mr. Ruttloff, was so nice to do the prints.

We did two different prints, one in white, one in white/black.

The fabric is a 9 oz indigo overdyed selvage denim, that will fade beautiful over the time.

With the fading process, the black prints will show up.

Please note: for the Katagami all rights reserved by KGM/SKD (http://www.skd.museum/)

We hope you like it. Next: denim and hardware.

The work is done and I´m very pleased with the outcome. It´s a awesome made jeans with a modern fit and super nice details.

Johann is a master on his sewingmachines with an eye for the small details and creative ideas, which make every pair of his jeans special in it´s own way.

The list of the details we made is long:
-Katagami printed selvage pocket fabric (we used this as lining too)
-selvage pocketdetail
-selvage buttonfly
-buttonfly lining with selvage detail
-special pocket construction for more durability
-Katagami lined yoke
-Katagami lined coinpocket
-peek a boo coinpocket
-Katagami half lined backpockets
-sewn in to waistband beltloops
-two selvage beltloops for wearing snaps
-hidden rivets
-raw copper buttons and rivets

Here are some pics of the Ruttloff Garments – Artisan Challenge Jeans

(please note: for the Katagami, all rights reserved by KGM/SKD – http://www.skd.museum/)

Johann proudly present the Artisan Challenge Jeans

the inner work

my favorite detail shot

buzz

ihm 09

ih sh 52

ruttloff jeans

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