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denim snob

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Posts posted by denim snob

  1. There's nothing really special about it, it's just usually thicker. Thread can be measured a couple ways, but consider the TEX scale. It goes from 0-100 and measures the weight of the thread over a given distance (much like oz/yard on denim). So the weight doesn't exactly mean thickness, but there's a clear correlation. Silk thread might be TEX 10, threads you might use on a shirt are usually like TEX 30. Thread for jeans is going to be around TEX 60-70.

    All cotton is authentic and not good for durability. All polyester can look fine or look really freaking tacky. Cotton wrapped poly or nylon core thread is a good compromise on looks and durability.

    Contrary to what you might read on the board, chainstitching isn't really the deciding factor in roping. Using all cotton thread that hasn't been sanforized (preshrunk with steam in the factory), and using unsanforized denim matters a lot more. The thread shrinks, the denim shrinks, and because denim is weaved at 4:3 Warp:Weft, it angles off and achieves the roping look.

    I'm writing this from memory, so if anybody knows better please post up and I'll edit.

    Tex equals grams per 1000 meters. So, the larger the number the bigger the thread. 80 Tex is also common in jeans, and is equivalent to 7.38 Number English (the number of 840 yard hanks in a pound). It is about the same size as a typical warp yarn in 14 oz denim.

    Interesting comment about thread shrinkage. Need to find out more about that.

    http://inventors.about.com/od/sstartinventions/a/sewing_machine.htm

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