smallproblem

fits the same as the s5000vx exactly the same but maybe 1 size smaller ( raw head to head) with a raw same size s5000vx 17oz.

info :

these are natural indigo i believe just fucking amazing

Oh no. Oh please no. I don't need more jeans! Shit!

They look fking amazing up close. And a sized down s5000 is The Shit on me. Damn.

I just ordered a pair of 1950 in rinse, but have had a !"%#¤ of a time trying to estimate the sizing on these. Doesn't help that the model on context makes the 1950 look like a slim fit while the one on revolve makes them look baggy. Anyway, comparing to my sam S5000vx and Oni Blues the thighs on these seem really tight, while the knee and hem are wider than both the sams and onis. I've gone with a gut feeling and ordered on a whim (sometimes not being sure what to expect is more fun anyway) but I can't really "see" the fit of these on a bigger guy like myself. I'm really looking for something overall more fitted than the stuff I have now. I ordered a sz 36, not really sure what to expect with these KMW's. Might have been able to pull off a 34 in the waist, but the thigh measurments made me go with 36.

So out of curiosity... any w34 and up with some wisdom or opinion on the cut and fit on the 1950 and/or 1980? Thanks.

Oni Blue sized down 2 are my new favorite jeans. Just got mine in the mail and they are stunning. I figured the denim would make them look a bit more immediately special or different than most jeans we talk about here, so I went with the Oni-vedge (back pocket white selvedge arc) as I figured that would emphasize this look, sort of. Very glad I did. There's definitely nothing subtle about the Oni's approach, these things demand your attention. I don't even care if these never fades, they're gorgeous right from the start.

The denim, the size, the cut, the fit, the hem width, the stacking... all comes together perfect for me personally. I'm especially glad they don't stack in a way similar to my Sams (Zero denim) which often creates a bulge around the knee (I realize this will go away with time and wear/wash, but I fade my denims slow, so...). I prefer the way the Oni's stack at the bottom half of the leg beneath the knee and no further. Looks more relaxed. Surely because of the slightly lighter denim... The feel of the denim is still just as rough in raw state as both my Sams, though.

Basically I'm saying... that's it, game over, just bury me in these. From here on it's all gonna be for the purpose of variation, but I don't think I'll ever top these.

Sorry no fit pics, might be able to provide later. Just some early impressions from someone who's never seen a pair of Oni up close before.

my problem these days is that if i dont size down, the hem is huge, and i hate that.

case in point, im going to buy 710bks in the next week or 2. i wear a 36 usually, but am thinking of going down to a 35, just to get the legs and such a little smaller.

figure if i just put a hanger in the waist when wet, everything should be good.

sound right?

Yep. I'm a 36 and I did exactly that (got a w35) with my S5000 bk and vx and love the fit. Hem could still be a wee bit smaller, but overall very happy with them. I don't have any experience with S710's but I think you'll be fine. BiG has the waist on a raw pair of 710 one inch smaller than on the S5000, but my experience with these tell me I could pull off a 710 in 35. Go for it.

Can anyone tell me how much I should expect the Sugarcane 1966s to bleed onto my shoes? It seems from the sugarcane thread that the brand is notorious for bleeding, but since the 1966 are one wash I wondered if things were different.

They'll bleed. My one wash Okinawas bled a lot for a while. My o/w Hawaiis... haven't even started wearing, but you can tell they're bleeders just by looking at them.

So you know the deal. Suede shoes in anything other than black or dark brown; forget about it. Canvas same deal. Leather... depends how much you like 'em

Personally, save for suede and canvas, I've learned to love them. Started looking at it as a "quality denim was here" seal of approval. That's just me...

Yeah generally sizing up one from true waist is the thing to do with SDA 103's, according to many.

I'm debating on whether to proxy some 103's or just get the 203 which I can get in a store here. Anyone know if the 203 still are sanforized? I know the 203 are 14 oz, any other differences from 103 I should be aware of? Do they have the same color? Kinda hard to tell from pics. I had a quick glance a couple of weeks ago and was surprised how bright the 203's looked. Looked a bit more dull or washed out than I had thought. Not sure how I feel about that, atm.

Thanks for replies. Losing 20 lbs probably haven't helped matters either. I'll start hot soaking more often. Really tempted to start putting the Hawaiis through hell to see what that purple hue can do after some wear.

I have a question for the seasoned SC fans out there. The diaper ass thing... how do you deal with it? Wash/soak often? Learn to love it? Thing is, my Okinawas are breaking my heart right now. The denim, details and construction is nothing short of amazing, but the more I wear them, the more diaper ass I get on 'em.

I have a pair of Hawaiis waiting to be worn. Can I expect the same thing with them or are they less prone to this unfortunate effect?

Rotating:

Edwin Nashville

Samurai S5000vx

Samurai S5000bk

Sugar Cane Okinawa

Waiting list:

Sugar Cane Hawaii

And the Oni Blue I just ordered. Sigh.

The Okis are breaking my heart btw... such amazing denim, construction and details. And the more I wear 'em the more diaper assage goin on.

is the "zero" denim special in any sort of way? like, the texas cotton is hella slubby and hairy an shit.. whats special about the famed zero denim? i dont own it.. just 500xx slubby texas cotton

The thing about it most people seem to recognize is the way it can shrink and stretch more than your average denim. To me it's in a way that it doesn't try to do anything 'special' that makes is a winner; a very successful middle ground. Rough and rigid 17oz, but not too heavy to drape nicely (this goes for the only Zero denim I have hands-on experience with; the s5000). Also there's something in the texture I really like. I could swear the weft shows more on my s5000's than on any other denim I own, when looking at a straight angle. Could be just that the indigo in the vx are so dark they almost look like the bk's, but I don't think that's all of it.

So I'm a 200 lbs guy and the best fit for me so far is my sized down Samurai S5000 vx and bk's, both in sz 35 (lot #10). Fitted, but slightly relaxed. Not too stacked, the long inseam works for me. I also have SC Okinawa and Hawaii and although I love them to bits they get sort of a limited rotation 'cos of the cut.

I want some slubby ish in a more modern cut and if possible smaller leg opening, should be a bit more fitted on me than Okis.

PBJ XX-005 either true size or +1 or

Oni Blue sized down a couple?

Basically I'm not sure the PBJ's will ever fit me right. I'd have to get like a sz 36 to be able to fit my thighs and without any taper... I dunno. Leaning towards the Onis. Lil' help? Fit is king, but denim, color, comfort also important. Thanks.

This post will be my shopping list I guess. Have already given up on trying to resist getting the jeans I want. Nothing too crazy here:

SDA 103

Samurai S0610LX

Oni Blue

PBJ XX-005

Maybe some Denime 66 cut.

So far what I picked up and so far fit fairly well:

2 x Sugar Cane Okinawa (1 hard washed, 1 raw denim)

Iron Heart 634S

Iron Heart x Self Edge SEXIH03BK (lot's of thigh room, but a little tighter down below due to the taper)

Levi's 501xx 1947 Deadstock

and my most recent is the Sugar Cane SC40601 Hand Loom Style (really loose fitting)

I've got reasonably big thighs too and am also liking my Okinawas a lot. Actually from your picture it looks like those Okis fit you baggier than mine does on me. My legs are kinda long as well and I get very little stacking with the Okis. Not saying there should be much of that on these nice repros though. For a bit more of a fitted look I've found the Samurai S5000vx/bk (had to get them both) work really well. With the long inseam I get some nice stacking too, for a more modern look. I imagine the S0500XX would do the same job, fit-wise, if you wanna keep on with that slubby denim.

The real surprise here, to me at least, is that the Edwin Nashville I picked before I started buying denim from overseas are turning out to be a real sleeper hit. Might not be as fancy in details and denim or even overall quality as most brands being discussed here, but damn... they are coming along very nicely in terms of fading and the fit manages to be both a slightly relaxed and comfortable while still giving me a slim profile. And I've treated them about as bad/careless as I ever will. The indigo retention is also grade A after two soaks and one warm machine wash. Nice and dark.

That close-up lap fade is just about the sickest I've ever seen. Gorgeous.

Sugar Cane Okinawa (Heavy rotation, one soak, bleeds a bit)

Edwin Nashville (Heavy rotation, one wash, one soak, only very slight bleeding now)

Edwin rainbow selvage (No use during winter. Thin/light denim, will be getting more use soon due to summer. No bleeds)

Edwin Black Raw (Same as above)

Soon:

Sugar Cane Hawaii (Not yet started using these)

Samurai 17oz S5000BK (On their way to me from Japan. Will be too warm for summer so they will have to wait until fall)

I'm a sneaker guy too so the Okis vs the Nashvilles is mainly a question of the color of whatever sneakers I'm wearing that day. I work in an office and fade my jeans very slow. The Sam's will be the last pair I get for a while. I hope.

Interesting post vahid, I'm compelled to comment even though I might not have much to add. I think you've described the two SC's pretty much spot on. I also fell immediately for the Sugar Cane Okinawa. The sense of craftmanship on these is second to none imo. I later got the Hawaii mostly as a backup for my Oki's, but although I haven't even worn them yet I'm beginning to appreciate the difference in the Hawaiis a lot. Especially the accents in the indigo you described. Sometimes I see them as greenish, sometimes more a deep purple. Suppose depending on the light. Definately a more vivid feel to the indigo compared to the more flat, dark Okinawa. And yes, they just seem to absolutely beg to be faded.

Sounds to me you're about to come to the same conclusion I did; Gotta catch 'em both.

True. That's just what we generally pay for stuff here. On a side note, the Sugar Canes were a bit less than the others, at 1900 SEK.

Loving this thread. I'm right where you're at jake. 30+ with a grown mans body, at 6', 205 lbs. Probably a bit of a different build though, as a lot of my height is in the legs. After three different Edwins I got on the bay and got myself a pair of SC Okinawas that I liked so much I recently got some Hawaiis to just have laying around as backup, or until the Oki's are done. The Edwin Nashville actually look really flattering on me, but it may not be what you're looking for. A bit on the relaxed side of things. My next pair will be the Samurai S5000BK, in part thanks to some lurking around here. I haven't had a chance to try them on so I will be buying blind. I'm sizing down one. I would probably go for the texas denim if I could find the 0500 in black. Happy hunting.

Edit: I choose fit any day, given a choice. But I did order the Okinawas out of curiosity and hype, no question. I got lucky with the fit.

Thanks for this, individualsole. I had completely missed it. I went to check out the store today, they have the FreeBee 101 and by todays exchange rate it would run you $388 if you bought them in-store. The site isn't up and running yet but as I understand it they will be shipping most anywhere. The 101's were a bit brighter in color and tone than most raw denims and I thought they'd be slubbier. Seemed quite smooth to me. Anyway, cool shop. Anyone in the area shouldn't miss it.