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snozepp147

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Posts posted by snozepp147

  1. - Chronicles of Never -

    The Latem Blazer from '08 This Is Not The Beginning collection

    Size: S

    $200

     

    very unique color changes from blue to purple depending on the light, with reflective specs of silver thread

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    - number (n)ine -

    white stripe textured cotton pant with knee ties and 100% silk pocket trim

    *note: half of the silk trim on the front pockets was removed professionally, but can be fixed by any skilled tailor. The underlying cotton was not damaged or cut in any way.*

    Size: 3

    $250

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  2. You are correct, ideally both the front and back.

     

    If the denim you are working with is forgiving enough you may be able to stretch a curve out by steam ironing.  

     

    Great, I'll just take a curved ruler and smooth that out. Thanks!

     

    That handwoven denim is incredible, by the way.

  3. Really great work everyone!

     

    Quick patterning question if anyone can help out:

     

    I'm running into a problem where there is a 'V' at the top of the side seam where the front and back meets at the waistband, making it difficult to sew on the waistband (see the circled area in the rudimentary drawing below). I'm guessing this is because the top of my pattern pieces are straight and not curved. My question is: do I need to curve the top of the front pattern, the back yolk, or both to smooth out that angle?

     

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    Thank you & happy sewing

  4. Here is my pair of custom jeans from the Hartford Denim Company. 6 months of wear, just washed for the first time. The denim is Collect Co. Ltd. 13.5 oz. natural indigo, organic cotton made in Japan. Here is a closeup photo of the denim before use (photo credit - hartforddenimcompany.com):

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    Now for the jeans:

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    Customization includes a handpainted Japanese enso on the back pocket, as well as a sakura tree stitched into the front left pocket lining.

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    Detail of the sakura tree and hand cut and peened brass rivets

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    Denim lined front and back pockets with inner coin pocket

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    Custom "fingerprint" copper fly buttons made by a friend of the company, Ryan Andes

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    Signature Connecticut leather patch

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  5. Thanks again for your help jerrylee. I didn't do a lap seam on the center back or account for it on my pattern because I thought you needed a special foot/attachment for that. (I just did a fake lap seam/foldover on the yoke and connected the CB seam with a regular stitch and folded it to the side). I think my problem is that my crotch points don't match up on the front and back. I dropped the back crotch by an inch or so to give them some more room in the seat and increase the back rise... but I should've added that to the top of the CB yoke so as not to shorten the inseam length.

    I'll draft a pair with my cheap fabric and see if that corrects it. As for my machine, I'm using my stepmom's fancy digital Brother Pacesetter ULT2003D. Not the most heavy duty but it's surprisingly good with this denim.

    EDIT: I drafted another pattern with the crotches at the same point and threw together a mock-up pair. The twisted inseam problem is fixed. Thanks again!

  6. I just finished my first pair of jeans after many test pairs. For these I used Cone Mills 13.5oz selvage denim. I'm pretty happy with the outcome. This first photo was taken before putting the front button on and I had some trouble with my machine and the button hole, but it turned out. Another problem was a twisted inseam, which I am unsure of how to fix, perhaps someone could chime in. It isn't really noticeable since they are long and the twist is slight, but it happens to every pair of jeans I try to sew. The fit is good, they're a little loose around the waist (I had to add a second button to keep them from falling off) and I plan on soaking them tomorrow. I hope to solve the twisted inseam problem before starting on my next pair.

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  7. I have a technical question some of you might be able to help me out with. I'll try to explain it as best I can.

    I've been drafting my front and back leg pieces the same length. However, when I add the yoke to the back leg piece it becomes an inch or two longer than the front piece. Later, after I have sewn the inseam and go to sew the outseam, the front and back pieces don't match up at the waistband (the back piece with yoke is longer). If I match them at the top and sew down to the cuff, the leg becomes skewed and the inseam twists because of the pull of the fabric. How do I fix this? Do I extend the front leg piece by a couple inches to match the addition of the yoke? Or do I extend the length of only the front pocket lining to match the yoke at the outseam then bring the waistband down at an angle in the front?

    Sorry if the explanation is confusing. If you think you can help but need more clarification or photos, please ask.

    Thank you,

    T

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