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dim376

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Posts posted by dim376

  1. yes, that is true.. it is difficult to make an entry here..there are a number of big distributors who supply all kind of japanese denims.

    to sell online, i dont think anyone would buy fabric online..there is no market for it

  2. Most of my hits were Youtube...and completely unrelated. Other than that...superdenim. Meh.

    do let me know which keywords you searched so that i can try to improve the engine. also after searching, did you click on the labels like Denim Forums, Denim Brands etc on the search result page. these labels are meant to refine the search. if you want to see only videos on say Diesel, search for Diesel and click Videos

  3. Have you used the the denim search engine ? You can find it at DENIMSEARCHENGINE.COM . I use it regularly for searching various denim related articles and I thought it might come in handy to others as well..This engine SEARCHES ONLY DENIM RELATED WEBPAGES

    How to use this Search Engine ?

    a)If I need to buy jeans, I would just enter the name of the brand and search and click on the ‘Buy Jeans’ label .Eg, I would search ‘Samurai’ and click on ‘Buy Jeans’ and get this result.

    b)If I need to find a job in New York for a denim designer, I would just search ‘NewYork Designer’ and in the search result, I would CLICK on ‘DENIM JOBS’ label and instantly get this list of denim jobs in New York

    e)Recent articles : This is interesting. Eg, if need to find about any latest mentions about ‘Samurai’, I would just search ‘Samurai’ and click on ‘Recent4’. It would show me the recent mentions about Samurai right to last few minutes.

    Similarly I would just click on the labels –Denim Forums to see what they write about ‘Samurai’ or even the ‘Denim Blogs’ to see what they are writing.

  4. I'm always impressed by the quality of denim that evisu uses but they always end up looking really awkward on me and a lot of other people I know which is a damn shame.

    i am sure that while wearing these jeans, i would feel very uncomfortable if people did not recognise that i am wearing such expensive jeans..it would be better off in a showcase

  5. Just to add, that OE may not deserve quite as bad a reputation as it seems to have earned, and I've seen some lovely RingxOE denim.

    Ringxoe - is sort of still there I feel.. Though not used in Premium Brands, mass brands like Wrangler,Gap, and even Lee use RingxOe in great quantities.. It gets cheaper than ringxring and with a slight manupulation of manufacturing and washing processes, they are able to get looks equivalent to ringxring..

    If oe comes back, i think it will in some new avtar - which will create a new look...lets wait and watch

  6. Whilst you're buying acid washes, I've heard speculation a few times now that open-end denim will make a comeback.

    That, and scouser perms ;)

    ringring - do you think that it is possible? what can oexoe offer ?it would be interesting if it comes back. but i feel that there is so much of OE capacity available that denim manufacturers would jump at it and destroy whatever little fashion that may be created..

  7. There have been some discussions going around that Acid- Wash (bleach -patched) look on jeans may be coming back next year.. Some brands (though not very well known) have been noted for having started to use this wash with predictions that it will be The Trend for next year .. I , however, am not very optimistic about the same since the acid wash is a very cheap kind of wash.. Unless some ways are found to make it look elegant, it cannot be expected to pickup as an important trend.. Any views?

  8. In we focus mainly on the technical aspect of denim fabrics, I would say that Samurai,Evisu and lesser known brands like Kato should be recognised.. However, the situation changes once we look at the complete Jeans.. Other factors come into play and as Ringring pointed out, one tends to become a polygamist..

  9. I doubt it is in their interest to lie.

    I suspect they just speed the denim through the vat of indigo on a conveyer of some kind 46 times. The old-school dipping terminology implies drying between dips (or such is my understanding) and the way Land's End points out that they mean dyed not actually dipped makes me think that they just set up a giant loop or some such and pass the denim in and out of the indigo many times quickly. But, who knows, maybe they are really hardcore.

    Well, as far as I know , dyeing 46 times is not an easy task.. In fact, it is very tough..There are two main dyeing systems - Rope Dyeing and Slasher dyeing.. In Rope Dyeing, one has to make a Rope of threads and dye it.. At one time you can give max. 16 dips in most machines..If you want to dye it again , the Rope has to be brought back to the dyeing machine - which takes a very long time and adds to cost like hell.. In slasher, the dyeing is done in open form and the threads from 12(normally) beams combine at the end in a single weavers beam.. This also gives 12-16 max dips..( One more thing to remember is that these dips include dips in water - which is done to wash the threads) To bring back the threads from a weavers beam to dyeing is again a complex procedure.. There is another form of dyeing - Loop Dyeing - which is actually not used in most mills and some Japanese and other mills use it for dyeing deep.. Here, giving more dips is possible, but the dyeing time and steaming time is high..The last form of dyeing is Hang Dyeing - done manually.. You can dye as many times you want - but the cost of manual dyeing will be very high in countries like US..

    So it is still beyond me , how they claim to dye 46 times..

    Another factor to be remembered is - when you dye the yarn, it continuously loses its ability to absorb more color.. Thus with each dyeing dip, the addition to color would be quite less and take more time..

    theetruscan - I think Land's End in just involving in jugglery of words to project a particular meaning..the observation made by Ringring also seems correct in this regard

  10. Actually, I don't know that Landsend dipped their yarn 46 times. I just know that they claim it is. Note that is for their 47 Indigo Original Narrow Leg jeans and not the selvedge jeans.

    Quoted from the Land's End site : "While most denim yarns are "dipped" (fabric-speak for "dyed") just eight times, we dip the ones in our 47 Indigo denim a full 46 times before they're woven into fabric at an American mill. These repeated dips give the cloth an unusually rich and deep color resembling denim fabric from a century ago. Then garment washing (the 47th step of the name) creates the look and feel of wear, ranging from almost new to 5 years' worth of wear complete with "whiskering" across the front and subtle fading on the thighs. And thanks to the 46 dips, the color is as durable as the fabric itself: 47 Indigo Jeans stay the color you buy far longer than other denim does."

    This an extraordinary claim for jeans retailing at $49.50 using US made denim.

    47 Indigo Jeans : http://www.landsend.com/pp/47IndigoOriginalNarrowLegJeans-58858_172898_-1.html?CM_MERCH=PAGE_58858

    Note that no such claims are made for their Japanese woven, $75 Handcrafted Original Narrow Leg Jeans...

    "Handcrafted Jeans are the finest we offer, with the best fabrics, authentic craftsmanship, and attention to detail making each pair truly unique. The fabric is made from ringspun yarns (both indigo-dyed and an off-white yarns, which yields incredibly rich, vintage-looking colors) on old-fashioned (read pre-1970s) narrow looms in Japan"

    I agree.. You cannot have a 46 dip denim made in US and retailing at USD49.50.. With this kind of dips, the fabric would be very costly and take away half of the price of the Jeans..It looks like a false claim or maybe they are adding sulphur to get the looks..There is another possiblity.. They mention Made in America and not US.. Maybe the fabric is made in a south american country.. However, still the price is not justified..

  11. I know of various dark Indigos denims being done by various mills around the world. Some of them are quite dark - some like Tavex even claim that their denim is the darkest in the world. But I am not sure as Japanese mills like Kaihara also have quite dark colors. And not to forget the natural indigo dyed fabrics which some manufacturers dye upto 48 times.. But is there any definitive answer to this question?

  12. There can be acouple of reasons:

    a)As mentioned in replies above, the fabric may not have been singed ie the flames which eat away the stickout fibres may not have been used or insufficiently used. However, in such a case, the fibres will appear even when you buy the jeans.

    b)The cotton fibre used is of lower length - shorties as they are called. The fibre length of cotton determines to a large extent the quality of a cotton fabric. Finer the fabric , the longer the length of cotton required. Eg for very high quality garments, Egyptian cotton - which is very high staple cotton - is used. For denim, an average staple cotton is used. In case the cotton used is of much lower length, then during washing, the yarn will abrade and fibres will come out.

    c)A relatively less important reason is that sometimes chemicals are used during dyeing or washing which weaken the yarn and make the fibres loose and enable them to come out.

    Even if the cotton is of a little inferior quality, it can be made up with Mercerising the fabric. This evens out the yarn and makes it more durable. Most of the fabrics you see nowadays in Premium denim have been Mercerised which gives them a more cleaner look

    soaking removes starch/sizing, too.

    good for the health of your jeans, especially if you are gonna wear 'em six months straight w/o washing.

    chicken calls this noriotoshi

    I have a small/dumb? question concerning hairiness of denim, I searched but nothing came up really and I think it's interesting for all of us:

    I've noticed that hairiness is also an issue for some people around here

    and it's seen as something positive/an extra sign of quality.

    20061129_01.jpg

    (picture stolen from Moz)

    But if I remember correctly, I was once told that when a fabric is hairy like that, it is a sign of low(er) quality, because it shows that the yarn used consists of shorter

    (= cheaper) threads, since they are shorter the ends pop out. If the threads would be longer, there would be less ends popping out and the fabric would turn out less hairy.

    Anyone out there who could tell me more about this?

    It's a bit technical and I hope I managed to make it clear enough.

    Anyway, there haven't been enough tecnhical threads on here recently imho.

    Oh and if by any chance I could have found this using the search button, please slap me!

  13. There can be acouple of reasons:

    a)As mentioned in replies above, the fabric may not have been singed ie the flames which eat away the stickout fibres may not have been used or insufficiently used. However, in such a case, the fibres will appear even when you buy the jeans.

    b)The cotton fibre used is of lower length - shorties as they are called. The fibre length of cotton determines to a large extent the quality of a cotton fabric. Finer the fabric , the longer the length of cotton required. Eg for very high quality garments, Egyptian cotton - which is very high staple cotton - is used. For denim, an average staple cotton is used. In case the cotton used is of much lower length, then during washing, the yarn will abrade and fibres will come out.

    c)A relatively less important reason is that sometimes chemicals are used during dyeing or washing which weaken the yarn and make the fibres loose and enable them to come out.

    Even if the cotton is of a little inferior quality, it can be made up with Mercerising the fabric. This evens out the yarn and makes it more durable. Most of the fabrics you see nowadays in Premium denim have been Mercerised which gives them a more cleaner look

  14. first of all great info guys..

    i am looking to buy some denim but i was wondering who makes a good cheap stretch denim? e.g original cheap monday "tight unwashed"

    even if anyone knows where they get thier stuff from

    any help would be amazing

    Your thread is very old. Anyway, there is a site called makeyourownjeans.com

    and one can order stretch jeans in one's size.. you can try it out

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