dacrow

tri-x, hc-110 dil b

haven't posted for a while, but I've been working on a lot of monochome lately. I felt like these ones fit together, kind of. more to come!

here's some ilford sfx200/400tx (everything developed in hc-110 ). Sorry if you don't like kusama

Ilford SFX200 (@ 200, w/ B+W 091 filter. Not true infrared).

thanks dragon_

fuji astia

provia 400x

few more odds and ends

epj 320t

ektachrome vs

pan f+

400VC

usually i don't like "people walking past commercialized signs" pics, but i had to try it once.

(these are fuji 400pr developed in kodak hc-110 "b" )

t64

pentax square

Portra 400

Fuji 800Z

my last tokyo picture (unless some of the portra roll left in my bronica magically came out well)

400TX developed in HC-110 "B"

oh yeah; this was my first one (Fuji T64)

I forgot to put this one up from an earlier roll:

I decided to focus on black and white film (particularly medium format) for a while now in order to work on some technical skills (especially before returning to Tokyo).

Kodak gold 100 push 1 stop

Sanja Festival, Asakusa

Provia 400X

entrance to Mikata-shi (where the ghibli museum is)

Fuji T64- mixture of tungsten and sun light with more of the former.

velvia 50

On UV filters- they're a good way to protect your lens and supposedly reduce bluish chromatic aberrations in sunlight; the downside is that you're more at risk for flare (but some people like flare). I like B+W ones; they're supposed to have less flare than tiffens.

The counterargument to my above statement is that modern (and that includes lenses from the 70's onward) lenses aren't going to get scratched if you clean them with a proper solution/cloth, so you don't need a constant protective layer (i.e. UV filters) on them. Modern films (i think digital sensors too but I don't shoot digital so I don't know for sure) are also arguably almost immune to UV light mimicking as blue. Certainly UV light should not trick a TTL light meter as was the case a while ago

400VC Pushed 1 stop

(shibuya)

new portra 400 (shibuya)

Provia 400X (also at shibuya)

roppongi

Fuji Superia Venus 800; all in shinjuku.

Fuji 800Z:

girl sleeping on train

forgot to put up these slides

rap100f, mitaka

ektachrome (vs), asakusa

e100vs, shinjuku

i finally got my c41s developed too; here's one:

(portra 400; meiji jingu)

I shot 3 rolls of BW film while in Tokyo.. these are the pics I was happy with:

Pan F+

TX400

I also got some Japan-exclusive film while over there:

Fuji Superia Venus 800

Fuji Natura 1600

Kodak "Super Gold" 400

Fuji Superia Premium 400

Fuji Neopan Presto 400

^ Pics with these films will be up eventually

Fuji Astia (meiji jingu)

more astia... you all know what this is

velvia 50 (shinjuku)

e100vs; also shinjuku

one more rvp 50

finally, a gift:

oh yeah that's a uniqlo bag... not too much extra $$ since i had to pay for photography costs, but i managed to stock up on the undercover stuff which was conveniently all on sale

velvia 50

t64

epj 320t

I'm back from Tokyo, and now everything around here looks comparatively shitty.

shot 25 rolls; here's some from the first (T64)

shot from my lap

spiral staircase after the rain.

another reason to love uniqlo: mirrors on the ceiling and tungsten lights.

details about each image are on my flickr

Been a while... a lot of my old pics won't show up here also because I did some rescanning.

Anyway, as I was about to leave for Tokyo for a week I decided to make the jump and get a rangefinder with a fast lens. But I can't afford an M7 + Noctilux (and wanted aperture priority), so Voigtlander R2A + Nokton 50mm f1.1 was the way to go. i don't give a shit about labels for camera gear as long as the pictures look good, and my contacts who use this glass have had great results, as good (in my eyes) as those taken with a noctilux (plus it's built like a tank).

I ran a test roll of Fuji superia at an aquarium.

oh by the way... i know there was a bit of a discussion previously about rangefinders vs. slrs. just for reference for anyone who's interested: this camera+lens is virtually the same size/weight as my SLR (canon a1+ 50mm f1.2), maybe a little bit sharper due to no mirror vibration, and has crappy 1 meter minimum shooting distance (vs. 0.5 meter on my slr lens). also, not being able to preview depth of field is a little challenging, but focusing and composing are still easy, with the former being a little more accurate.

^very sharp and beautiful.

many roses are blooming around here.

rvp50:

portra400

first roll of acros

so i ended up scanning some of my 6x6's on my own, and was pleasantly surprised to find the results much much sharper than the lab scans that i previously uploaded (so please excuse the double post of these)

for this one, the black space between frames happened to be continuous with the top of the photo so I got a 6x7 (or something like that)