Jump to content

dmaz

member
  • Posts

    53
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by dmaz

  1. i've been checking cobblers around my work to no avail, and the search hasn't pulled anything up. i've got a few nyc specific questions - or spots that will do mailorder repairs.

    - who typically can do metal toe taps? i've been to 5 shops and most didn't know what they were or where to get them. i've seen a few of you in here add them to some leather soled boots.

    - anyone that can do crepe resoling, specifically for a pair of p&b p500's

    - what a resoling on a pair of red wing 875's would typically cost. same white crepe wedge, most likely the vibram replacement, not the red wing sole

    cheers

    East Village Shoe Repair on St. Marks, Boris just did my Red Wings. He knows his shit, don't be discouraged by shop's looks.

  2. Hey guys,

    This is a pretty desperate attempt to see if anyone here has tickets to the Rock The Bells show in NYC on the 28th (Saturday) and is willing to trade them to me for the 29th (Sunday). I unfortunately cannot make the Sunday show and I have 4 tickets that I want to trade. If anyone can help me out or has any suggestions please let me know. Ticketmaster will not allow me to exchange them.

    Thanks

  3. dmaz - those do look a little tight. however think they'll stretch out fine.

    care to share the measurements post wash? thanks a bunch!

    Size 32 Raw:

    Waist – 34”

    Front Rise – 10”

    Back Rise – 14”

    Upper Thigh – 24”

    Knee – 17.5”

    Hem – 17.5”

    Inseam – 36”

    Size 32 POST-soak:

    Waist – 32”

    Front Rise – 9.5”

    Back Rise – 13.5”

    Upper Thigh – 22”

    Knee – 17”

    Hem – 17”

    Inseam – 33”

  4. Well, to begin with, a lot of the Japanese companies use pure cotton thread, to simulate original construction methods. Modern companies (including 5EP, which imo, blends great denim with great modern construction, imo) use cotton covered poly thread, for the most part, which has more stretch, will not fray as easily, and is just plain tougher. Also, what constitutes "better denim" is very subjective. Certainly, better /= more durable. Super slubby denim, for example, is going to abrade much faster than smooth denim, thus the problems with 5EP.

    I think that it is funny that there are always posts about Pure Blue Japans bowing out at the crotch, and yet durability is often cited as the reason people like the Japanese brands and shit on brands like Seven. The interesting thing about many of the Japanese brands is the denim itself, not the hardware (in many cases, mediocre,) the design (the fit of Samurais suck on most people, to be frank), nor the construction. And the great thing about the Japanese denim is that it looks, feels, great, not that it lasts any longer than, say, Turkish denim.

    Interesting points LA Guy and everyone else. I didn't know 5ep used cotton coated poly threads (though I knew they were different), that explains the durability. I totally agree that the Japanese jeans excel in denim and dyeing, but are not necessarily more durable in construction/hardware. But it IS funny how everyone goes Japanese for quality and durability. I had many pairs of diesel jeans years ago that I beat to hell, and could still probably still wear them to this day.

    So what I've gathered from this forum is that Sugarcane, 45rpm, APC, and 5ep are among the best blends of overall quality.

    Watchman - front pocket stitching shouldn't be coming out on 90% of Sammies

  5. We all know that denim jeans were initially designed to be workwear, but can our beloved double ringspun, rope dyed, edo/ai pure indigo, hand cut and sewn in Japan, single-cropped organic selvage, really stand up to the quality they and everyone else advertises? I see crotches getting blown out, chainstiching unraveling, pocket stitching coming undone, back pockets coming off, etc. I would like some opinions on what jeans have stood the abuse it takes to get beautiful the fading/story we love.

    My limited experience involves 5ep, Pure Blue Japan, and Samurai. I've been wearing my PBJ's everyday for the last 2 months and the crotch stitching is starting to rip ala Carl's and the chainstitch at one hem is unraveling. The Samurai 5000vx that I had, the pocket stitching was coming out just like everyone elses. Fortunately, I have had my 5ep's for exactly a year, and NOTHING is wrong with them. They are truly tough-ass jeans and I know I got my money's worth.

    Everyone else?

  6. If anyone is interested...

    When I inquired about keeping a belt raw to let it to "break in" to the (well-informed) guy from Leather Goods Connection, this is what he replied:

    "I know what the buzz is and for the most part is uninformed and even stupid. Hand stained and finished leather will change with use and become unique to each individual and have a nice broken in leathery look. Without some sealer or wax on it it will absorb all sorts of things, dye, dirt, oil, food, etc. Unstained and unfinished will change also and have a nice, dirty, ugly, pulled from a dumpster look. If leather isn't tanned it isn't leather, it's just a skin that will rot and attract flies. Pass that information on to your friends at style forum, superfuture or nudies."

  7. Also, if it hasn't been mentioned in another thread...many films directed by Pedro Almodovar (Spain) are a bit strange at times, but also very good.

    england - Sex and Lucia was crazy...I'm in love with Paz Vega.

×
×
  • Create New...