BirdAndVine

As a matter of fact, CH is opening in Paris and WaiKiKi(I cant spell it, just sound it out:) I want to add this as well, I was at market in Vegas all week, and saw LOTS of silver. I was chatting with a dude from CH (not at the show mind you) and we were discussing the very topic that has emerged here.

So many designers doing similar things, and all of them have probably dissed Chrome Hearts at one time or another, I know I have. What he said made sense though. No matter who did it first, or who copied whom... there is an enormous market for this type of adornment, and Chrome Hearts was on the forefront in the creation of this wide acceptance. Like it or not.

I am not a fan of CH. I think the quality is poor, the goods are all outsourced, and the designer no longer lays a hand in the creation of his goods. They are too readily available, and not special anymore. This does not seem to matter that much to anyone else... Paris isn't giving CH a storefront to see an American Designer smack in the middle of haute couture. CH has the $$ to be there, and so do their customers (who are not, I would assume, French at all)

I think their prices are a travesty, however this has paved the way for their peers to step up their quality and make a fair profit. I speak of Nagual, Van Amburg, King Baby, and Crazy Pig for example. The owners of CPD (Crazy Pig Designs) are two of my very best friends. I knew them when they were at the Great Frog on Carnaby Street. Armand carves each and every CPD design. He has a part in the finishing process of every ring, bracelet, pendant.... down to each link on the chains they make. I know when I wear their Jewelry, I will not see it on anyone else, and I know the pieces are limited to what the small shop can produce.

Nagual, while out of California, has beautiful and innovative designs...... quite different from the crosses and skulls of his peers. Mitchell Binder of King Baby has grown to his success in front of my eyes in the past few years. He is very hands on, and has begun working more with diamondsand precious metals. I saw his booth at market this week and was blown away by his custom guitar cases with sterling handles. I feared the pricepoint, but there are plenty of guitarists out there who want to make as much of an individual statement as their playing does. Jerry Van Amburg works mostly in exotic skins, making anything you can dream of. All with sterling appointments that he also carves and casts. Each of his pieces is hand crafted without one machine stitch, and I have never been in his studio when he wasnt lacing or whipstitching as he talked.

These people have so much talent, and they never stop innovating and creating. There is always something new.

Which "brand" would you rather spend your money on? ...... (lMe too I want the cheap mass produced one)

I will finish my rant adding only that ............ I love Gap Body underwear. They are the best. Cosabella, La Perla, Agent Provocateur, kiss it..... Gap body all the way. Before that it was Knickerbox from London. Plain cotton/lycra. I guess I just dont know how to truly appreciate underwear and I apologize for that. I am thankful that the thong has become so popular, used to be they were impossible to find... Does having a preference make me a snob?

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

By no means am I assuming that it was my post about the quality of English Sterling vs. Mexican that could have caused any silver snob comments. When one tells the truth, states the facts, answers someone's query, and possibly educates the reader, it is hardly fucking stupid, I wouldn't think.

Sure, pretty much anyone can carve a mold, and cast a piece of whatever, in silver, gold, platinum....... I am pretty sure even shit would work with an epoxy of somekind, the point is that there can be a large, even huge difference in quality from one piece to the next, depending on how it was made.

If you want the look, and dont care how a piece will hold up, save your money and go to Claires, or buy a knockoff on ebay. It is a trend that will pass quickly. (Except in Japan) and I agree, the prices are ridiculous for silver. If you are looking at a piece that you love, and it represents something to you, I would consider buying an original. It wont turn your skin green, and if you hate it in 5 years make a profit and sell it on ebay to Japan.

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

When Chrome Hearts started, they were making leather trousers with sterling buttons and rivets. They asked Armand Serra, who was at that time carving jewelry for The Great Frog on Carnaby Street, to carve the button design. He said no. A few years later he opened his own store in Covent Garden called Crazy Pig Designs. If you want a quality silver, gold, or platinum piece of jewelry, I suggest going to Crazy Pig. The pieces are unique, they are all handmade, hand finished and can be sized in the shop within about an hour.

Unlike Chrome Hearts which is overproduced and made en mass in Mexico. There is no government regulation for silver content in the US or Mexico, and most of the Chrome Hearts (and several other copycat designers) is carved and created to use as little metal as possible.

www.crazypigdesigns.com

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

The male model in the Stronghold aint NOTHIN!! check out the side closeup view of the chick, it is sad, and obviously something to do with pixels or something, but if you need a place to set your beer...... BABY GOT BAR BACK (just add coaster or bev nap:)

I showed it to their rep last week, and she nearly laughed herself onto the floor...... I think she might have peed a little!! and there is already something brewing there...... as far as the happiness of the owners that their "babies" are on revolve. I shopped there when I first moved to Nashville because there was NOThING here, now that the store is underway not only am I in LA NYC and London regularly, but dude? Nashville would probably surprise anyone. In the last 2 quite a few funky fresh boutiques have opened, to my DELIGHT, and sadly, a few have already gone. There is a very forward boutique here called Sugar, and Jenny and I have VERY similar taste.... but to tell you the truth..... she IS in the middle of the money, and she isnt a Talbots. Or whatever these ladies wear to these things.

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

I just looked at Cloak and was very impressed. I am going to try to attend the show in NYC next week as a matter of fact! (just because some brave soul dared to tell me good things) And as for Barbatos.... Like it, Love it, lived in LA for 10 years so I am quite familiar with the shoes, VERY similar to the Gianni Bravos that exist in only one store I know of, and every time I go to LA I check to see what is new. I LOVE them... the snakeskin especially....... I am limited with the Bravos because he does so much high heel stuff, and that is really not me. As for men, I think it might be too slick for the common man, but the Barbatos are a great balance. The last time I was in the mall in LA, Poliwhatever had SO many kickass styles...... I also really like Mark Nason? Did I get that right? I saw a Japanese shoe dude at Magic, and I wanted the shoes so bad, but he really didnt want to speak English to me, and I can only say white airplane in Japanese. I have the linesheet somewhere... 1/2 hour of searching later...... it was Juno, there were gems in the midst of the cheese, and I loved the mens exotic skin flip flops from J Shoes. They even had ostrich sneakers..... cool but tacky........but still kinda cool.

AND I want to take this time to tell you you ARE right, I have never seen Barbatos in Nashville. Although with the opening of Bloke (Melody, the owner used to buy for Lisa Klein Men) one can never tell:0

I really appreciate your feedback!!

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

Most of the cowboys in Nashville are dudes who left the ranch to sing country. Unless you are actually a real cowboy, it matters not whether the double seam is on the inside leg (Levis etc) or outside (wrangler) The latter prevents chaffing:)

By dry, I am assuming you mean unwashed, stiff, like evisu used to be? Dark washes are coming back, but those stiff soak in the tub till they fit jeans dont seem to be a big hit here. Besides, the men folks here starch and iron their jeans till there is a worn crease line down the front of the pant legs. ALSO the true cowboy seems to love that trophy buckle up around his neck....... not flattering in my opinion.

I realize it is there for a reason..... most cowboy trends serve a purpose.... even the mullet. The Marlboro man was a myth, much to my dismay:)

Kiera

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

it is too bad that revolve got the Stronghold, I know the owners regret it..... especially since the washes and cuts I see on that damn site look nothing like the jeans in my store.

I do not think that you can put the same dude in 3 different cuts of any pant and expect them to all look right.

The Stovepipe is not my favorite, but it is the closest to the cuts of the 20s and 30s. It is what the Stronghold ad with Charlie Chaplain was for, you know the railroad, the coal mine...... and the jean actually looks really good on bigger, taller men. I would say no waist smaller than a 34-36 and no shorter than 5'11"-6foot. Thankfully Nashville is full of guys that size......

I am still working on pictures.....in case anyone cares anymore........

It IS funny that the only time I have seen the jean look like shit is on revolve....... womens AND mens look wrong.

Kiera

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

So I am either choosing my words poorly, or just being picked apart...... regardless this is what I meant....

Crazy Pig Designs London is my main heavy silver line, though everything they do can be done in gold and platinum.... the website is new for them, but here is a sampling of Armand's creations.

http://www.crazypigdesigns.com/CPDonline/Others.html

Jerry Van Amburg made my wallet, until November when I was robbed. He is making another, but the one that was nicked was a stunning red aligator, kangaroo lining, elephant pouch. All whipstitched with no machine sewing. Sterling snaps.... I loved that thing. His work is in the "Bible" (the main silver catalog for Japan) along with Armand's, but then again so is Chrome hearts and Mitchell Binder, the King of all Babies.

http://www.vanamburgleathers.com/

http://vanamburgleathers.com/gallery/

I carry Stronghold denim, as well as a cool unisex line called Mogg. Because I wear them.

I have beautiful jewelry from Ricardo Martin

http://www.domspirospero.com

I get exotic cowboy boots from Bootstar in LA, Made by Liberty and Old Gringo, the designs are edgy and limited.......

I am currently working toward aquiring FilippaK, Rag n Bones, Marc Vaschon, Mark Nason, Luke 1977 and Scott Langton for example.

I personally collect Nudie, but not the Nudie you are all raving about. Nudie Cohn was a famous "Rodeo Tailor" in North Hollywood. He and his lead designer Manuel Cuevas dressed the Rolling Stones, The Flying Burrito Brothers, The Beatles, Jimi Hendrix (sorry), and Elvis (short list) Manuel made The Lone Ranger's Mask, and he literally "put" Johnny Cash in black.

Nudie is long passed, but Manuel has kept dressing Hollywood, Nashville and everywhere in between since he began in 1956. He made Robert Redford's suit for the Electric Horseman, John Travolta in Urban Cowboy, and my favorite... Xanadu! Manuel regularly does fittings withBob Dylan, Joe Perry, Billy Gibbons, Kid Rock, Marty Stuart, Hank Williams Junior......... the list goes on. If you have ever seen a suit on Gene Autry, or Roy Rodgers, brilliant embriodery and excellent craftmanship on Dale Evans or John Wayne, you have seen Manuel's work. Every rhinestone on the Grand Old Opry you can bet either Nudie or Manuel put it there.

I suppose I could spend the same amount of money on a Prada bag, and I guess what I previously left unclear is that when I say there is a limit, I mean that I am not going to pay 300 for a D Squared tee shirt, but I will happily spend 3000 on a Manuel Chimayo coat made from an antique blanket. I have an issue with shelling out hundreds of dollars on True Religion, Antik Denim, or SO jeans....... when they all come from the same factory, and are not made very well. But back in the day in Hollywood, when I could go into Duarte and buy a pair that kicked serious ass and were one of a kind, 400 for a pair of jeans was nothing. (Duarte jeans are now mass produced in the same factory as the others I mentioned)

I listened to people GUSH about Great Wall Of China till I wanted to HURL, WHY spend THOUSANDS of dollars on an item of clothing, thinking it is so unique..... How unique can it be when the line is owned by Lucky Brand Denim, which is owned by Liz Claibourne for Gods sake.

I will personally go to a thrift store, buy a leather coat from the 70s, for about $70, take the tag out and spraypaint LIBERTINE on it for you and I will only charge ONE GRAND for it. (Thats over 1/2 off retail)

In closing, and as my last defense, by setting limits, I am certainly not limiting myself. I want VALUE for my dollar, and I am tired of watching people go broke trying to keep up with a trend that seems so far from timeless. My first big buyers ma

OH CRAP I have some in my room, but I have no idea how to put a picture on this thing.... I will give it a shot! Sorry

Kiera

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

I think I have some stuff in my own closet like this, but to be clear, could it be the equivalent of a Hatch Print Poster? I mean if it were on paper? and is it a centered graphic? or are you talking about a print applied to yards of fabric.......

Just please tell me it is NOTHING like Ed Hardly... I mean Hardy.

Kiera

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

Thank You SO much!

I am as I said looking for menswear, and though I have noticed alot of streetwear in this forum, I seem to be able to find something I like in most well made lines.

I have a limit of $ per item that I allow myself to spend on clothing. On anything really. I will not spend more on a wallet than I will ever have in it, for example. And I believe in tailoring and attention to detail ESPECIALLY in mens clothing. I find joy in a print that matches up at the seams, a tag that is invisibly sewn into a shirt. I love a good collar and am constantly amazed at some of the Manuel creations when he is truly inspired.

I went to University in London, and think waistcoats and cufflinks are so classy. I tend to love most British fashion, even the stuff I wouldnt be caught dead in. My main jewelry line is Crazy Pig Designs in London. I have been best friends with the owners since the 80s and they have come such a long way. Everyone here is so into the Japanese denim and other things...... well the Japanese cant get enough of Crazy Pig. Not as popular as Chrome Hearts, but crap always seems to sell so well..... So charging so much for silver is hard, but there is a huge difference in Sterling form England and silver from Mexico (aka Chrome Hearts, Lloree Rodkin, King Baby etc.) In London, the unfinished casts go to the Government Assay office where they are tested for purity. If a batch comes back .924, the whole lot is destroyed. In the US a bunch of fru fru designers get an idea, scribble it, and then the whole shebang goes to Mexico for carving and casting, and you have your own .925 stamp, so purity does not matter.

See I know about jewelry........ I just started learning about selvage when I got the Stronghold, and I am hooked! Most of this is totally new. I know what I like...... I like classic cool....... but I have never had to try and decide what a whole bunch of other people might like. When I was in the Music Industry I was a production manager/ guitar tech....... not involved in the clothes back then either.

Anyhoo, I suppose in an incredibly long winded way I am agreeing with you completely, and thanking you for your input. I am not trying to sound better than by saying the people I have been dressing, I was trying to give a feel for what I am looking for. And of course you know that there are Country Stars..... there are several music networks devoted to them exclusively. What is really cool lately is the re emergence of Americana, Lucinda Williams and Dwight Yoakum, bringing back that Gram Parsons feel that so inspired EmmyLou Harris and even the Stones. Outlaw Country is back with Wilie Nelson and Shooter Jennings leading the way. I think Walk The Line has had alot to do with it.

Regardless, I cant wait to check out the lines you mentioned, can you explain distressed prints to me.... I am aware of the distressed Tees, and carry one line, but realize it is goofy to spend a fortune on a shirt that almost looks ready to throw out...... but the prints...... I am not into the re issue vintage tees, but I am hoping this is something different. Please enlighten me!

Kiera

ps Heck Nashville rocks...... Gunnar Nelson lives here! (joke) but so does Kid Rock, and I guess he rocks, or he did anyway:)

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

You Go On With Your Bad Self Bill!!!!!!!!

hint; buy them for her!

Kiera

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

You dont seem rude at all...... I have actually been pouring over these pages for about a month now, and I have learned a TON!

I'm the kind of person who wants to share the things I feel passionately about, and for 25 years (even still) I gave free advice to most of the people who ever contacted me wanting to know how to get into the Music Industry..... I know (because I have been told) that I spent alot of time and energy giving advice, listening to demos, helping people who I would never make a dime off of, because I knew nobody else probably would.

Hence my query on this board. The responses I have gotten have been great, so many lines I have never heard of! And people are giving me the why.... which is what I want. I want to know WHY a DUDE likes shopping, WHY a DUDE spends a fortune on selvedge...... I can look at all the posts in the world, but very few are telling me what I need to know to dress my client, above and beyond what is available to him even in New York or LA.

People seem to really want to share the things they truly like the best, and tell me why that is.....

I guess anyone can have an answer to a question about fashion, but to take the time to answer me specifically means that the information is something they care enough about to share.....

Take Care!

Kiera

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

Market is upon me, and I have stopped working for musicians, and started dressing them. (And anyone else in Nashville who wants one of a kind, or cutting edge designs) My store is about to open by appointment only, and my mens lines consist od Stronghold denim, Mogg Jeans, and some Iconic Tees (I love skulls) Crazy Pig Designs, London, for silver, and Jerry Van Amburg for custom wallets and exotic leather/skin items.

I have researched zillions of designers who will be at Magic, Project, D&A NY, and The Coterie..... I have chosen lines to buy that have a unique backstory, are music related, are well made (and usually English) and most importantly, are not currently available in Nashville. But I don't pretend to know it all, and it never seems to ship like the samples.

I dress Rock Stars, Country Stars, and the dudes trying to be the next big thing. From the Red Carpet to everyday life.

I would love to know who your favorite lines are and why. What fits the best, and what might just be hype.

What do you love? from Tees to Ties...... I want to know!

You will be doing a great service for me, as I am not a dude...... and I am finding this the most daunting aspect of this buying trip because I have to round it out in 3 weeks of market starting Tuesday the 7th.

I desperately want at least one more denim line..... shirts of all kinds excluding those vintage reproduction Tees, shoes, boots, even underwear.

I need casual attire and suiting, cufflinks, braces, hats, and even socks!

I am NOT however looking for huge baggy urban attire. Hoodies are good, but here there is already a steady supply of streetwear, and surfwear (like there is an ocean nearby!)

Cool sneakers (converse and vans are already covered) but what about something obscure.

And of course anything country or cowboy.

I am so interested in what might come back to me here!

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

I love watches, been a member of the NAWCC since I was a teen. My dad loves watches, he can repair them, this is where my love began.

2 things.

Thing 1. I do not care who made the watch, if it is quartz, I will not buy it. (unless there is some other completely unique and sick reason to do so, example a collection of limited edition swatches from the Atlanta Olympics, and the sterling Burberry charm bracelet watch, which I wear as a charm bracelet with my divorce watch aka the mens stainless Roadster (but not the chrono, because it is partially quartz)

I believe in the automatic as a work of art, and the wind is just behind........

Thing 2; My dad has always dreamed of a Tourbillion (sp) and my dad is my hero. Can anyone produce a comprehensive list of what is available out there? I have learned so much from reading posts in here, I am sure there is someone with this knowledge!!!

Kiera

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

A few weeks ago I had mentioned the rather large Stronghold order I had placed for my store, and was anxiously awaiting the shipment. I was singing Stronghold praises based on the samples I saw in September. Well they arrived, and now I can say for certain that these are some killer jeans. I have sold a dozen pair and my storefront isn't even open. The women that try the jean love the fit, as do I, and the men have found the bootleg to be more comfortable than their favorite old jeans (in Nashville this usually means Levis or Wranglers)

I find that even the low cash cowboys are willing to spend the extra money on the Stronghold after they have been educated in shuttle looms, selvedge, and hand hammered rivets.... and most of the guys love that the jean is made in America (except for the Carolina cotton woven on the Japanese looms)

My fiancee tends to be more of a rocker, and chose a larger womens bootcut, because of the lower rise.

My only complaint is that the most popular mens cut for me (the bootcut) has been discontinued...... drat! And that the womens bootcut has to be cut in such a way that there is no selvedge edge in the seam.

All of the pocket linings are old fashioned ticking (looks like my 1st big girl mattress) and there is a cute hidden inside pocket I suspect for a condom, however I suppose you could put other stuff in there if you want.

By and large, even my friends and clients who have never spent more than a hundred bucks on 2 pairs of jeans, are finding these jeans to look and feel great enough to fork out a big part of their paycheck. This has me inspired for sure, and I am looking forward to my next shipment with even more styles and washes!

-----as a footnote; the straight leg for men is extremely long in the inseam, and comes cuffed. The leg could easily accomadate a boot, so the bootlegs are going away, but the straight legs will be available either cuffed or uncuffed..... this may be ok with my guys.

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

I own a storage locker full of clothing that will soon be a store here in Nashville. I came here from LA, and was in the music business for 25 years before I decided to dress the musicians here instead of lug their stages around the world for the rest of my life. Opening a store here has proven to be more cut throat and competitive than I ever imagined, and with denim so popular for just about any occasion, choosing lines was a real challenge. I went to the markets, and the majority of the lines I was most familiar with were already oversold in this market, or had agreements with other retailers to be exclusive.

I happened upon the Stronghold on a tip from a friend with a shop in Atlanta, and I called Michael Cassell to see where I could check out the brand. There was no showroom yet, so he and Wendy Floyd came to the house in Glendale where I was staying with a friend, lugging a HUGE case full of the line.

I must say that I have never been so impressed with the quality of a pair of jeans.... in addition, I was impressed with all of the research that was done to keep the line "in line" with the original Stronghold brand.

I placed a really big order, and decided to carry (at this point) only 2 denim lines. both for women and men, both out of LA and both with a unique backstory. (The other line is Mogg, which I love)

It is true, Michael was the guy who "branded" VonDutch... but we are talking about a time when most people had probably never heard of the brand as a clothes line outside of LA. Before there was a website, and when most of the jeans were really unique and well made. Michael was out of it way before it became a nightmare, and one of the reasons he left was because of the mass marketing changes that made VonDutch about as cool as a Hard Rock Orlando tee shirt. His vision was never to allow what happened, and the Stronghold has been developed in such a way that the past cannot repeat itself.

On his behalf it has taken him a long time to find and develop another brand worth his hard work, and if you knew the attention to detail that goes into the design and manufacture of these jeans, it is no wonder they are so expensive, however Saks has them priced way too high in my opinion.

The Atlanta store who originally hipped me to the line got their order of mens jeans about a month and a half ago, it was a HUGE order, and she has 3 pair left. I was worried about the pricepoint, I admit it..... but I am much more at ease.

All I can say is I learned alot about the jean, and the company as I am banking on the 2 lines I have chosen to hold their own, and figured I could back them up over here since it seems like they were getting a bad rap for the whole VonDutch thing. The Stronghold IS worth a look.

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.