leviathan

The label is not misrepresentative, it's just confusing. I had the same thought (i.e.e that I'd got a bargain!) when I bought the sorahikos, but I also have a pair of aihikos and the label is exactly the same. The way it's written is in the alternative - so that it could be either. Having said that if they were doing it right, they'd score out the inapplicable one, or at least say "or" instead of "/".

By the way there are pic sof a guy wearing the UMIs and Jomons on www.rby45rpm.com.

I think the 5EP's look better.......

I don't think it says anything about stigma. If there's any industry where gay men don't need any additional support it's the fashion industry!

I think it's a prefectly acceptable question....why does it not matter. It's just another facet to someone's personailty or approach that may have an effect on what they produce. Fashion is traditionally and still predominantly a feminine or effeminate thing. It's interesting that a lot of the Japanese designers aren't gay....not really sure why, but it may be that they're motivated by something more cerebral than "looking hot". (Like all generalisiations this can be attacked by looking at exceptions - e.g. Cavalli vs Chalayan - but that's not really the point.

Anyone know the difference between jomon and ai-hiko? Is the latter just the old name for the former, or are there other differences? The ai-hiko are certainly natural dyed; wondering if the fabric or weave is different.

Ta.

I have a pair of ai-hikos (which I think are what are now known as jomons) and sorohikos. Looks like the ai-hikos will not bleed at all - no indigo movement at all, doesn't rub off on hands. tees etc. Sorohikos are completely different in this respect - a lot of fading and contrast coming though after about 9 months (with 6 montsh heavy wear). The colour in the ai-hikos is beautiful though........

45rpm sorahiko one wash

junyawatanabe levis (from first collection)

1933 LVC

They loosen out quite a bit, so I'd stick with them. Actually having siad that I have the new style sorahikos which are a bit baggier anyway, not hte classic 501 fit. Which ones you have?

www.ndcmadebyhand.com

They are nice (some of them anyway), and v good quality.

I think the ones you are referring to are just Junya Watanabe jackets, with no North Face branding. If it's the ones I'm thinking of, they are goretex jackets based on skiwear by Goldwin. They are basiscally Goldwin jackets (Goldwin label on the inside) made with JW fabrics, which are then waterproofed and interlined with goretex. Quite technical, and v expensive. Can get up to around £1000.

Th grey check jacket was Junya Watanabe jacket from last season (SS o5) so your best bet is ebay. I saw it there a couple of weeks agao but don't know if it sold, so you could check back.

Some of the North Face/eYe products are shown on www.doverstreetmarket.com. Now being sold in DSM in London, although I don't think in the CdG NYC store.

Check this out (works if you cut n paste)

http://threads.fuk.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=44000&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

In the UK they are about £220. Which is a lot. I tried on a pair the other day, and they were nice but some things put me off. First they haver a rather more "tailored" shape than most authentic/levis based denim lines. I suspect this is to appeal to the non-denim "headz". Second the denim is quite nice japanese selvedge but v soft and quite lightweight, which again, struck me as a bit unauthentic. They were just a little bit too sanitised for my taste.

Y's was actually Yohji's original collection for both men and women, and the line that is now called the mainline was produced for an international audience, shown on the Paris catwalk. It's essentially a simpler more "basics" orientated line, but still v expensive, sometimes just as much as the mainline. Can be £300 for trousers, about £600 for jackets. There is a separate "division" of Y's called Y's at Work, which is a small, sort of utility wear collection, which also includes jeans (distressed by spotted horse). In my view, Y-3 has just about nothing to do with Yohji, it's an adidas line with his endorsement on it, nothing mroe. Having said that YY does sell it from their stores, and probably make huge amounts from it. I suspect it sunsidies to a large extent the mainline collections.

Sorry, there's nowhere online that you'll get this stuff, other than Yoox for CCP and some Japanese auction sites. Very few places actually stock it at all. CCP is not doing a collection this winter anyway - taking some kind of sabatical. Neither brand really ever does any fashion editorial so it's pretty obscure generally. The only way of getting it is to go to the stores that stock it. The prices are such that you really don't want to make a mistake with it anyway!

They're each quite different. CCP is quite a formal line - Poell was a tailor - with "accents" like taped seams or overlocked stitch seams. V interesting leather, including see through kangaroo leather. Very expensive. About £600 for shoes, £2000 for leather jackets. Non leather slightly more affordable but still not cheap. If you're looking for a bargain to try it out, yoox has some.

C Diem is a bit more "rocker" oriented, but moving away a bit from that now to more minimalist pared down clothes. It is very very very expensive, probably more than any other brand you will find for men at least. Linen shirts are about £700, sweatshirst/sweaters from £300 to £800, leather shirts about £1300. The leather shirts are the signature look from them, beautiful things.

Sold in H Nicks and the Library in UK, L'Eclaireur in Paris and Atelier in NYC.

Fit is awful. I couldn't buy them even at £20. Even though I really wanted to. I just wouldn't have worn them

you can start at

www.doverstreetmarket.com

Big ass. Very deep seat so they seriously hang unless you hike them up around your chest. Not the most flattering look to be honest. I'm all for a bit of sag, but the old old levis are a little too much for me.

Liberty also has quite a big selection of it - I think bigger than DSM (they only had tees, sweats and shoes last time I was there - they have much more undercover).

Keep it classic, and English.

Basically:-

Single breasted

Two vents

One or two button

Flat front rousers with no belt loops (tab adjusters sides is better)

Jacket should fall at side to rest exactly on your cupped hands

Charcoal or navy or navy pisntripe.

Can't go wrong!

www.pollyanna.com might have the fragrances. They're a bit dodge by the way.

The Keds are only sold at DSM and one other comme store I think. Wont get them online at the moment.

Ok I thought I'd also share two recent acquisitions

(1) - pair of 5EP one wash.

(2) - pair of 45rpm "2005" sorahikos.

The quality of the 5EPs are in my view second to none. The construction and finishing really are something else, better I thinh than the more expensive rpms. The cast is very green, fit is kind of narrow-ish, slightly tapered. Thinking of keeping these dark, not going for wear/washed look.

45rpms are new style just introduced apparently. They are pretty wide legged. Denim very very slubby, imperfections in selvedge line etc. Think the dye will come out fairly easily on these so will try some gently "encouragement" on areas of wear to see what devlelops. They are lovely too, quite heavy. Nice detailing like "raised" fabric on belt loops and pockets between the stitiching - apparently it's an old fashioned sewing machine that does this (I'm sure others will know more than me).

Yikes.

All of their distressing is already done by Spotted Horse as i understand it.

What is "peg leg" and "UES"?

Where can one find more info/pics Urban?