35mm

Sizman paints it accurate.

I would add:

Good coffee (torrefazione for espresso, stumptown for atmosphere); in addition to the aforementioned great restaurant scene, a particularly good breakfast scene; Powell's Books (it's like a full city block); Ozone records (I think it’s still there); Music Millennium (two locations, one store has an exceptional classical section, while the other has an exceptional blues section; Rich’s Cigars (if you happen to smoke cigars, or imported cigarettes); Wieden and Kennedy is there and Adidas has their US HQ there.

I'm very fond of the place.

Quote:

Quote:

If Gap made some seriously good selvage denim, in good fits, I wouldn't have to order all my jeans online.I could care less. I carefully remove most of the labels from my clothing anyway.

I used to work at the Gap back when I was in High school for about 6 months. I walked out of that job because all of my co-workers were some prissy ass grabbers who were so G-Pride that they had lost all ability to take a joke from a strait man. Anyway... Sorry for that. My point is retail is a horrid job I'll never work again...

Did I just kill this thread?

--- Original message by TragicBliss on Jul 10, 2005 02:36 PM

gap runs the some of the same exact fabrics as paper denim / rogan /earnest sewn etc... they are able to buy in high quantities from the mill at a lower price. candiani fabrics from italy, which makes some of earnests/papers/seven/citizens etc.. core fabrics, are also run by j crew / gap etc... gap regulary runs candiani, nissimibo , cone and other high quality ring ring fabrics in the 1969 line. adriano (of AG) designed the first 1969 line around 1997-98 and ran a really good fitting, high quality rigid selvedge jean for about $100.00. if this jean was sold in a boutique it would be alot more expensive. 95% of the "premium" jeans brands run the same crap as the gap and other companies. what you are paying the extra money for is the double mark up of buying through a boutique or dept. store that buys wholesale from the manufacturer. direct retailers like gap etc.. can sell product with a single mark up. i'm not saying that gap is cool, but its not always a better quality product that you pay for. one chip and peppers core fabrics is a u.s. cone fabric that is also one of abercrombies core fabrics. a+f sells theirs for 60.00, chip and pepper retails at over 150.00, and in my opinion the a+f one is better looking as well. there are other factors in price of course (country of origin ,construction etc..) but 95% of "premium" denim brands dont mean crap. everyone uses words like "premium", "ringspun" "japanese denim", etc.. but its only marketing. the only jeans worth buying that are available in the u.s. are prps, 45rpm, levis vintage collection, a.p.c. , rrl, 5 ep, and some rogan. i am basing my high opinion of these brands on the 5 most important factors in detrmining a jeans quality- fit, fabrication, construction, trim and finishing.

--- Original message by sweet orr on Jul 10, 2005 10:46 PM

Not a fan of Nudie RR Selvage?

Quote:

Ok I thought I'd also share two recent acquisitions

(1) - pair of 5EP one wash.

(2) - pair of 45rpm "2005" sorahikos.

The quality of the 5EPs are in my view second to none. The construction and finishing really are something else, better I thinh than the more expensive rpms. The cast is very green, fit is kind of narrow-ish, slightly tapered. Thinking of keeping these dark, not going for wear/washed look.

45rpms are new style just introduced apparently. They are pretty wide legged. Denim very very slubby, imperfections in selvedge line etc. Think the dye will come out fairly easily on these so will try some gently "encouragement" on areas of wear to see what devlelops. They are lovely too, quite heavy. Nice detailing like "raised" fabric on belt loops and pockets between the stitiching - apparently it's an old fashioned sewing machine that does this (I'm sure others will know more than me).

--- Original message by leviathan on Jun 28, 2005 12:47 PM

Below is quote from Jake Spade's website. I thought it was a good example of "quality/authenticity-as-trend".

I'm a bit ambivalent about their notion of "...style because the designs have a reason for being."

Certainly in a historical sense Levi's were once workwear, military chinos were once just that, etc. It seems to me though that a return to the design principles that these garments embodied (call it utilitarism) is really no more than yet another example of an appropriation of a cultural and historically context, which is a trend we see everywhere. Jack Spade et al, are not in the military, Marlon Brando never mined gold, and I can’t even afford Oxxford suits.

I think what makes this notion of authenticity problematic for me is that the garments in question, or those who wore them, were never self-aware of their authenticity. They possessed a sort of innocence. And perhaps this innocence is at the heart of the quest for authenticity, quality, etc. It’s interesting, because in a certain sense, this all smacks of Modernism in art (not to be overly broad). At any rate, the idea of getting at essences. Why is this important, esp. for clothes? I dunno? I suppose people are always in search for stability, meaning, truth, etc. Why not with clothes?

At any rate, below is the quote. I hope the above waxing made sense enough.

"There are certain products that men everywhere turn to for reliability and inherent style. Military issue chino pants, Timex watches, Lacoste shirts, Levi's, oxford cloth shirts—all represent the proverbial "real McCoy." Most were originally created to serve a purpose—Chinos for the military, Levis for the workman, Lacoste shirts for the sportsman. Mass marketers have taken the concept of these items and produced lesser products for the sake of fashion. Remember when the only great chino pant you could buy was made of heavy canvas and sold exclusively in Army/Navy stores? Unfortunately, few of these originals still exist.

We've always appreciated companies like J. Press, Brooks Brothers, Levi's, Barbour and even Oxxford Clothing for being great companies that make useful items for men. The products these companies manufacture have style because the designs have a reason for being. With these products as inspiration, we created JACK SPADE. We want to return to this approach, once again offering men items that represent both honest, thoughtful design and practical purpose."

Used to be just Pokerface (which is gone) and Value Village LOL.

Reynold's Optical on Hawthorne used to have a great selection of deadstock vintage frames.

Is there anything in Pearl these days?

Alterior carries the dry version.

http://www.alterior-shop.com/

Yeah, they're nice. I might have to get these:

http://www.urbanoutfitters.com/images/us/local/products/productsall/p140542c.jpg

How about these:

http://www.footsteps.at/index.php?idx_prod=RODLAV-GRNWHT&style=lifestyle

Never seen these in the flesh, only the "retros" as mentioned above.

Quote:

badlands

boy meets girl (carax)

pixote

strozek by herzog

the killing of a chienese bookie

women under the influence

SCUM by alan clarke

breathless

band of outsiders

--- Original message by dutchxoven on May 26, 2005 01:18 PM

Also-

Ghostbusters

Big Trouble in Little China

The Third Man

The Rules of the Game

Alphaville

The Discrete Charm of the Bourgeoisie

Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (A highly underrated Eastwood film, IMO)

Videodrome

All the President's Men

Harold & Maude

Chinatown

Mission Impossible I & II

So many...and I think I've commandeered this post to list movies I like

I find it hard to recommend movies. But given what you listed, try these:

Bladerunner

Gladiator

Heat

Dirty Harry

Total Recall

Beverly Hills Cop

Alien(s) I and II

Boogie Nights

Indiana Jones Triology

Star Wars Trilogy

The French Connection

Casino

The Bourne Identity

The Professional

The Shining

Full Metal Jacket

Old School

The Thing!!! (okay, I'm reaching )

The Exorcist (Aside from the head spinning demon child, I think this is actually a quality film, even an art film in a lot of ways)

Classics:

Rear Window

Seven Samurai

Streetcar Named Desire

The Great Escape

Citizen Kane

Casablanca

Dr. Strangelove

Art:

Anything by Cassavettes

Early Godard

Anything Bergman

Rashômon (Kurosawa) -it'll blow your mind!

Anyway, I'm just guessing. There are a lot of great movies out there.

Edited by 35mm on May 26, 2005 at 11:26 AM

PRPS - Steven Alan

Quote:

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/d-stock/540681/620212/

omg drool

--- Original message by super on May 19, 2005 11:57 PM

Quote:

Sorry, I meant Levi's, as opposed to LVC - Levi's Vintage, Not a huge difference obviously, but they're marketed differently, and LVC is now made in Japan (it used to be made in the old Valencia St factory). The Levi's I saw were generally a vintage look, with selvage, but not a copy of a specific year 501, like the LVC product, and were a little bit cheaper,

--- Original message by Paul T on May 19, 2005 08:17 AM

Quote:

35mm, how can you be sure from the pics at volls that they are selvage? they can be either be an open selvage seam without ecru or a closed seam with overlocked stitch, as far as i can see from the website, the picture of the outseam is not very clear

--- Original message by hahnstch on May 19, 2005 07:18 AM

Perhaps me and volls are both mistaken

Quote:

I've looked at ALD in various countries, and so far, it's all been non selvedge denim. Maybe they make selvedge too, but I've not seen any yet.

Try the Austin Ave 1001 . Sorry about the misinformation.

--- Original message by ringring on May 19, 2005 12:19 AM

-Actually, from the volls site they all look to have selvage. Perhaps it's now become standard?

Edited by 35mm on May 19, 2005 at 07:03 AM

"i remember hearing of a tailor that makes custom made suits for $750-800 for wes anderson, jason schwartman, et al. anyone know who im talking about?"

--- Original message by gentleman on May 14, 2005 05:21 PM

mr. ned

Edited by 35mm on May 16, 2005 at 06:05 AM

Quote:

Just seen these jeans, starting price $10,000.00 (Reserve not met).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3974264194&fromMakeTrack=true

--- Original message by johnmc on May 13, 2005 01:09 PM

Quote:

Prada Sport Loafer

White APC Dress Shirt

Rag & Bone RB8 Denim

IWC Fliegerchronograph on Strap

--- Original message by Analyst on May 12, 2005 07:46 AM

Have you been to the Denim Bar in Pentagon? I haven't, but I understand that they carry RR Selvage for $260, a bit of a rip!

"I also went to Thomas Pink but $165 for a white shirt is a last resort."

I really like my Black Label. And they age really well. Might be worth the investment?

Edited by 35mm on May 11, 2005 at 06:19 AM

Edited by 35mm on May 11, 2005 at 06:19 AM

Quote:

I am wearing a deep charcoal Valentino three button suit over a Les Copains cashmere turtleneck, in black. Gucci square toe slip-ons with a discreet silver insignia that you would have to be on your knees in front of me in order to read, and a White Gold Vacheron-Constantine Chronograph, with a black suede band and a deployant buckle.

I've been told that the only other one in existence belongs to Tom Cruise.

--- Original message by Yakboy Equals Nurturer on May 10, 2005 03:54 PM

I Am A Cinematographer - Palace Brothers

Holland, 1945 - Neutral Milk Hotel

Never My Love - The Association

Take However Long You Want - Will Oldham

Motherless Bastard - The Books

Throughout All Time (dwightyoakamacoustic.net version) - Dwight Yoakam

Graduation March - Elizabeth Cotten

Sweet Virginia - The Rolling Stones

Engine - Jeff Mangum

Clementine - Elliott Smith

Don't Think Twice, It's All Right - Bob Dylan

She's the One - The Beta Band

Ambulance - TV on the Radio

Fishing Blues - Henry Thomas

Edited by 35mm on May 7, 2005 at 09:16 AM

handsblue.com is now up.

Can someone post a fell seam? Thanks.

Re sizing: After a month of wearing the Unisex (aka New Standard), size 34, they measured 37" across the back of the waistline (18.5" x 2). I ran them through a hot machine wash and now they're measuring 35".

I didn't measure them when they were new but I assume they don't arrive 3" bigger than what the tag indicates. It seems to me that a new 34" probably measures 35" and stretches to a 37".

I'm probably going to buy a size 32" (which after wear will equal 35") and wear them dry and then cold soak them when they get dirty.

Oh well, live and learn

Edited by 35mm on Apr 28, 2005 at 09:06 AM

I've been eyeing a pair of Rag & Bone, selvage, 11 oz. The wash has a greenish hue, much like the 5EPs I've seen posted. They're nice jeans. They're also expensive. Do other's feel they are too high? Would any one rate them as close to equal to 5EPs, or more on par with PDCs, Earnest Sewns, etc?