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Tender Co. Denim

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thanks ooms and william! my 128s have been shelved for a while; I think at some point I realized the rise was still quite low and opted to focus on my 129s instead. i've considered a few attempts to merge the two, such as pulling the patch pockets off of the 128s and transferring them to the 129s, or frankensteining the 4+inch hem scraps from the 129s into a double stacked waistband on the 128s, but this has all been stymied as i've been preoccupied endlessly postponing fixing my sewing machine tensioner. one day they'll be back!!!

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Got myself a tender belt. It is amazing. And thick as nothing i've had before. Love it! 

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Wondering how much waist stretch you guys have experienced? 

In the 132/130 cuts, are you able to wear without a belt? 

 

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standard stretch. they're quite burly denim. i wear mine without a belt sometimes. but a tender belt is perfect for them. :D

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I picked up a pair of 130s a while ago size 3. They measured 32" in the waist, but now they're at 34" and I can't really wear them without a belt. 

Amazing jeans, but wondering whether I should have tried a size 2... 

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Crosspost WAYWT - Tender ochre dyed, ryeland wool x cotton denim jeans...

 

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Plenty of socks fresh from the wash

Lighting's bad, but so it goes

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Bonus shot of this week's Mardi Gras cauliflower while I'm here, get in the spirit

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I remember Bill making a great post some time back about the production of the acetate sunglasses, but I'm not having any luck finding it. Anyone happen to have a link (or better forum search skills than me)?

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On 3/27/2020 at 5:03 PM, julian-wolf said:

I remember Bill making a great post some time back about the production of the acetate sunglasses, but I'm not having any luck finding it. Anyone happen to have a link (or better forum search skills than me)?

Here you go @julian-wolf! Back on page 26. The process is exactly the same, although the first batches were made by a guy called Matt who's since moved on to other things, but I was very lucky that the frame-maker who taught Matt agreed to take on my work- the current production is now made entirely by him, but it's the same may of making, from the same materials.

The only design changes since this post^ are that the temples are now cut with curved-down earpieces, rather than straight (straight sides are nice, but I found them a bit uncomfortable to wear for long periods, and they really need to be individually adjusted to the owner's head, which not everyone is able to get done), and the fronts are now carved from a single, thicker sheet of acetate. This means there's no need to glue on nose-pieces, rather the thinner section around the orbit is thinned back- it gives the frame a lovely solidity to it, which I'm really happy with.

I've just received a delivery of various styles and colours, which are up on the Stores!

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Great info as usual, @rodeo bill, thanks for this. On the same topic, do you have sizing info available for the glasses? Lens size / bridge width?

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1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

Great info as usual, @rodeo bill, thanks for this. On the same topic, do you have sizing info available for the glasses? Lens size / bridge width?

thanks for this Julian, and sure- I can give measurements for anything you like. Would you mind emailing me, please? and I can give specific measurements of whichever style(s) you're interested in. Thanks again!

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One of a trio

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Long time lurker, first time poster! I love Tender, and have been following William's amazing brand since the beginning. It all began so innocently when I started getting into the denim scene, and happened to come across this really special pair of jeans in Goodhood (2010/11). I've been hooked every since! Thanks for being so passionate and kind William :cool:

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Posted (edited)
On 10/23/2019 at 2:57 PM, heyson said:

Thanks rodeo bill! I was writing a condition report before de-installing the painting. Had to block it out for privacy of the owner/ more so to save my job ha

Do you work with private or public collections? Or are you possibly a registrar? I am currently a fellow at a university museum... good to see someone else on this forum working in the arts. :)

Edited by Suitedupmon

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On 3/17/2020 at 9:41 PM, redragon said:

 

Pleasant surprise...

Thank you @rodeo bill :blush:

At last, got the jeans back from @rodeo bill

A month in transit is pretty good considering current situation, not-exactly state of the art mailing system here & the usual custom fiasco.

Detail shots of the repairs:

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Overall, quite pleased with the repair job. Some wonky stitches here & there but does not affect the strength of it.

definitely wearing this soon!

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thanks so much for posting these @redragon! I was hoping they'd be with you soon- the post has been pretty variable, so I've switched to UPS shipping for everything for now (they collect from our front step, too)- sorry that I sent your jeans just before things started slowing down. Your jeans are quite heavily worn, so the repairs are to keep some life in them structurally, but as their made on the same machine, and with the same thread, that they were originally sewn with they should wear in nicely and keep you going for a while yet.

Thanks again! it was lovely to see these back after so many years.

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Posted (edited)

Great stuff @satchelbmoore! I wish I could pull the trigger on a bunch of Tender stuff right now but just can’t :(

what are all the different models?

i would definitely love to see details

Edited by heyson

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@satchelbmoore 

Great to see these... yeah keep 'em coming...

Is that a logwood dyed pair? Interested to see more if so

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On 4/25/2020 at 10:36 PM, satchelbmoore said:

I’ve been wearing the lightweight woad  Trews (134 I think??) a lot over quarantine.  What’s the denim specs on those, @rodeo bill? They are perfect for staying in while keeping your fade game going! Plus that blue! 
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Thanks for these photos, amazing to see- I think you have a better collection than I do! Your lightweight denim trews (second from the bottom on this photo, right?) were a special in 2015, which I'd totally forgotten about- I had to check the original line book to remind myself. It was a very nice short run of Japanese 10oz denim, with less dips (15 not 25) than regular Tender denim, and a relatively loose weave, so I can see why it's nice at the moment. As it's a less deeply dyed colour to start with it also took the woad particularly nicely, and the colour still looks great- a bit brighter than regular woad jeans of this age, which tend to be a bit more mellow. There weren't many of these made, and I've not heard of any other since, so yours are really special to see!

And seconded I'd love to see more of your collection if you can!

 

 

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Posted (edited)

@heyson I hear you! If @rodeo bill got a notification every time I put something in the Tender Stores cart that i couldn't quite swing, he'd never sleep.

 

The styles are:

129 Rinsed Denim size 3: Worn very hard for almost all of 2014, 2015 and part 2016.  Repaired almost every seam somewhere and many holes in the knees hips,  crotch, ankles and pockets. Washed and dried every few months.

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Edited by satchelbmoore

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Next up:

Unborn 130 Size 3. Worn Part of 2018 and all of 2019. Starting to need the usual back pocket, yoke and crotch repairs. I love the fades of the looser cut 130 over the the 129. 

 

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Next up is my first pair of Tender jeans. 129 Woad size 2. They ended up being a bit small but I got some decent wear into them. They have yet to be washed. I bet they'll look when they are and then maybe they'll find a home with someone smaller than I so i can watch them continue to age. (measuring tape in the back pocket not chaw). Sorry I didn't get any details. 

Next is the 134 Trews in 10oz woad denim. Super soft. very comfy. beautiful. Lots of interested details all over. No side seams. Selvage in the top of the pockets. i love how the lined back pockets allow for the pocket to do its special thing. hemmed at the ankles. (my union special hemming machine did not like the fabric at all but it gave them an interesting gathered look at the bottom that i've warmed to considerably. Worn daily for the past 7 weeks. Casually before that. replaced a button. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Lastly for now:

132 Woad denim: I've been loving these. Worn since the beginning of December So comfy. The woad denims aren't as fuzzy and seem to be more composed. They hold together a little better. Pockets still needed repairs. Washed and dried maybe three times. These remind me of the first pairs that showed up on the old HIckorees site when they had the genius idea to post photos of these and the 130 in woad after a bit of wear. That made quite an impression on me. It's hard to capture but these photos get some of the magic of this fabric.

 

Also including little stack of the standard Tender denim with an unborn pair worn about a month and an unworn unborn pair on top for comparison.  That's all my Tender bottoms. I had my eye on the khaki 130s for the last year or so but someone snagged them from the Stores. (I'll include the first run of woad PJs with the Calico shirts whenever I get some time.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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^ nice stuff Satchel – I need to get a pic of my 129s up sometime; like you, I somewhat prefer the character of the fades from looser fits, but recently I've come to enjoy the exaggerated pocket-bag fades and stronger honeycombing (how long has it been since we've heard that term..?)

Earlier today – for the first time ever – I was out walking back from the shops with bags of provisions and heard a voice behind me: "Excuse me.. Excuse me..!"

I thought it must be someone needing help or directions, and turned around to see a dapper older gentleman beckoning. When I got to the regulation 1.5m distance, he said "I just had to know.. Where did you get those jeans?!" (the 129s, should've mentioned).. he wanted to know everything about them, saying he'd always liked jeans and it was rare to see anybody doing anything different in the denim world, and that the cut and patterns of wear had really stood out to him. I made sure he had the Tender Co. name firmly imprinted.

Naturally, when I got home I copped a serve as I'd been walking with my wife and she hadn't realised I'd dropped behind to chat to strange old men – she was waiting for the key to get in and was not receptive to my chuffed I-finally-got-stopped-in-the-street-because-of-how-cool-I-am vibe

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Finally bit the bullet on my first pair of Tender jeans. Got the 130 in Rinsed denim molleton. 
 

Cannot wait to break them in and finally wear something other than gym shorts around the house while in lockdown. 

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