braille_teeth

Tender Co. Denim

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Both jackets look great, I'd love to see the type 900 pattern return. It's got a nice dash of both denim jacket and chore coat.

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Ready for tender. Whats a cut thats loose and high rise? Molleton fabric? Hows the sizing? Hows the shrinkage? And where to buy online?

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Try the 132 cut ed, you'll probably want either a size 4 (34-36" waist) or 5 (36-38"). Shrinkage on the denim depends on whether it's dyed--all the overdyed fabrics have been shrunk. Not sure about molleton specifically. And most tender stuff is available at tenderstores.com . hope that helps.

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On 24/05/2017 at 3:11 PM, Broark said:

Both jackets look great, I'd love to see the type 900 pattern return. It's got a nice dash of both denim jacket and chore coat.

Thanks! The last 900 jacket sold a few weeks ago, and I've put some more into the next denim production.

On 24/05/2017 at 3:18 PM, edmond said:

Ready for tender. Whats a cut thats loose and high rise? Molleton fabric? Hows the sizing? Hows the shrinkage? And where to buy online?

Thanks for this, and thanks Chicote, too! I agree 132's what you're after, and I'd guess a size 4 would be right for you, although please email me if you need full measurements etc. We have both 'Unborn' (raw) and rinsed molleton versions of these in stock. Unborn will shrink to size, the molleton versions have already been rinsed to shrink, or shrunk during dyeing. Please just let me know if you need any further information.

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Thanks Edmond! Here are the pre-wash measurements for 132 Unborn jeans.

Size 4:

Waist: 38"

Thigh (3" down from crotch): 14.25"

Knee (14" down from crotch): 11.75"

Hem: 9"

Inseam: 40"

 

Size 5:

Waist: 40"

Thigh (3" down from crotch): 14.5"

Knee (14" down from crotch): 12.25"

Hem: 9.5"

Inseam: 40"

These are raw unsanforized, and will shrink down ~2" in the waist and ~3" in the leg with a warm soak, or slightly more with a hot wash. Every other version of these jeans has already been shrunk during rinsing or dyeing.

Shirt fits vary depending on the style and fabric, but generally speaking Tender shirts fit fairly generously compared to other repro-style brands. A size 4 is a Tender L, but in most styles fits comparably to other brands' XL, a 5 is a Tender XL but equates to an XXL for a lot of other brands. I hope this helps- please email me if you need more specific measurements.

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continuing with 132d ecru canvas

a combination with a soft black shoe for summer

back pocket detailing

and a trick that never grows old

post-wash freestanding

[not about sick fadez, but getting rid of sick stainz]

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^PM'd you!

Our good friend Morten (who makes For Holding Up The Trousers suspenders and belts) has been staying for a couple of days, and this morning I took some photos of his type900 jacket (photos of the same style one page back). His is the logwood version, and is looking really lovely:

IMG_0113.thumb.JPG.55eba796aa684554565fa51f37d24308.JPGIMG_0114.thumb.JPG.4ded6f5b92b8622cffaf5624627c2881.JPGIMG_0115.thumb.JPG.a09ed451a3fc78ecece113756a07b140.JPGIMG_0116.thumb.JPG.447221bbe93b6c6415646e5c598ae98f.JPGIMG_0117.thumb.JPG.78c36b09d32917006364baab6b004da0.JPGIMG_0119.thumb.JPG.ce72d942e8d3f006203997ddb390b292.JPGIMG_0121.thumb.JPG.2e5db01ec6e53dd549c8734dcf37ae75.JPG

here it is on, with Morten's own 422 woad linen shirt, 423 khaki low-tension sateen wallaby pocket shirt, and black Telegraph dial GS/TP:

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and here's a BFF shot, in matching shirts...

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...and watches:

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IMG_20170618_005323-01.thumb.jpeg.f526a9a22b589a0405951895c3db4aa9.jpeg

Labels over the year, glad you are still doing these William.

Always enjoyed reading small historical background about the product.

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lovely! thank you. I'll see if I can put together a full family photo- I keep meaning to do this but I'm pretty frantic at the moment. In the meantime, this is literally a one-off mug (on the trestle shop) but I happened to be at the pottery when it was being made, so I tool a few photos. 'Nettles' sgraffito mug:

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^^

good to hear that you are busy!

bumping the thread whilst selfishly awaiting the treasure trove of fit-pics you bring from your japanese visits

finding #tenderco on the 'ol IG brings some good results

posting some favourites here whilst waiting

by a user who has also done a youtube review...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q55sDJs-GPo&t=43s

also, total props to chicote's fit pic on the recent waywt thread: never seen a tender shirt tucked in!

 

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Posted (edited)

+ some more of faves by a range of IG posters this time

[hope this is not inappropriate]

enjoying the mega sizing and unisex / gender fluid appeal 

[thinking here of possible comparisons to eckhaus latta and craig green, but from a quick trip to dover street market to check at least one of those can confirm tender construction and material is in another stratosphere... tender is clothes to really wear in, not just pose in] 

and much love for the 921 shirt

(is that the same denim as for the jeans?)

 

 

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Edited by bartlebyyphonics
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Thanks so much for these! To be honest I don't see much of Instagram so it's really nice to get a look at how people are wearing things. The denim 921 is indeed the same denim as the jeans, although it's been desized (had the starch washed out) and tumbled to soften it up a bit. It's here if you're interested. Thanks very much also for the comparisons with some great stuff (I didn't know Eckhaus Latta, looks really interesting). My Japan trip will be mid-September, and we're doing a popup at Diaries in Nagoya, which should be fantastic- I've never visited but they always order really interestingly and I gather they have some very loyal Tender customers. Sorry it's a way off, but pictures to come, for sure.

In the meantime I'm getting through the coming Autumn production (first pieces should be available in a couple of weeks) and finishing up samples for Spring 2018, as well as holding down GS/TP, Whooper, and everything else.... More soon!

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idul fitri ootd

calico butterfly shirt

129 in denim molleton

george cox creepers

34921141123_d35ae77b68_c.jpg

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Posted (edited)

^this is such a great shot, I always really like your photos- thank you!

While various Tender stuff percolates, here are a few more details about THEN, which has been mentioned briefly a couple of times. It's a very small project, but which I feel really good about- it's been quite a bit of work but is very personal. I came across a fantastic archive of mid-20th Century fabric designs, which were lovely in their own right, but also really strongly reminded me of my grandparents and great-aunt, who were designers working from the 1940s to the 80s. The idea was to take these fabrics (reworked a bit), and cut them into the kind of clothes which people like my grandparents wore. While the work they did was pretty avant garde, the clothes they wore themselves were very simple and tasteful, almost conservative.

Fabrics got woven up in the UK, and the garments are made to a very precise, tailored, level, in Japan. Bone china swingtags are an homage to Barbara Hepworth, and are made in England. Here are a few photos:

5963f41ca5c13_akira1.thumb.jpg.d75af8cd31926c35ab42e69b3f14dab3.jpg5963f421a462b_akira2.thumb.jpg.5d33038643c8b3876a478d9e2b875290.jpg5963f428bfea5_akira3.thumb.jpg.3c6aaebbc792980be370597466f45f49.jpg5963f43ab94d4_akira4.thumb.jpg.66802e79673071b795be7dc2d87d8d74.jpg5963f44401c07_akira5.thumb.jpg.cb4ca6e9d8511cfcbfd2cb490db976fa.jpgDSC_4300.thumb.jpg.e35167d5397e1005d163a1ca0dc40e2c.jpg

As I said, this is a personal side project, so it may not be every season, but it should keep popping up one way or another. The first production is now available at PRESENT, as well as Maidens in Tokyo and Loftman in Kyoto. The name, THEN, is partly about the idea of time (a previous era, but also a link to the future, the next step), and also a reference to a great book of photographs by Alexander Liberman, who was a friend of my grandfathers (I believe).

Apologies that this may not be for everyone, back to regular scheduled programming soon :)

Edited by rodeo bill
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here's a beautiful photo of the living room of a great friend of the brand:

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and a closeup :-)

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Monthly 129 update:

i mostly climb in these so they get worked and washed often and are getting crazy. I just went climbing so some of the white is chalk but they generally are pretty close to what you see.

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Posted (edited)

amazing meng. i love the front pocket fade. hv u been washing inside or right side out?

Edited by oomslokop
more questions
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Posted (edited)

21 minutes ago, oomslokop said:

amazing meng. i love the front pocket fade. hv u been washing inside or right side out?

my thoughts exactly! pls share!

(i suspect rodeo bill washes right side out also with some of the fades i have seen on this thread)

Edited by bartlebyyphonics
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They get washed right side out but I think the fades are more pronounced from rubbing up against climbing walls. I'm actually a little concerned that, that area will be the first to blow out.

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^Looking great Hendsch, thank you for posting! Yes I also wash right-side out. That said, the pair I'm wearing at the moment, after a very long hiatus, are 130 weld-dyed size 4 from the second production (SS11). As far as I can remember these have never been washed, apart from during the initial dyeing process. It's been a while since I've gone down non-washing, and it feels sort of nostalgic :rolleyes:

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these, on the other hand, have been washed tons, and I really love how they're coming out. Whooper Backwoods 36":

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Sam, a great friend of the brand, just ordered a new season (more soon!) shirt, and sent this lovely photo of his collection to date:

image1.thumb.JPG.7f16cb6ffe15fa86dfc0fed3489092c4.JPG

It's lovely to see someone's selections all together like this, across different seasons and fabrics.

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still no wash either on these 129 rinsed denim molleton after almost a year (of mostly sedentary lifestyle):

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in the spirit of collected tender fabrics

my 130, 134, 132

denim, barge blue canvas, ecru canvas

as wave of textures

in the spirit of washing right side out

and the fabulous fades seen above

details of my barge blue 134 trews which receive that treatment

around 2 years occasional wear

a quiet quiver of fades, formed in certain parts as much through fabric tension as wearer contours

 

 

 

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So many beautifully timeworn pieces on this page. Particularly like the barge blue canvas bartlebyyphonics and your pair of much washed Backwoods William.

Here are my Whooper Backwoods, really great jeans and my go-to pair this summer.

 

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Posted (edited)

21 hours ago, slowdownarthur said:

So many beautifully timeworn pieces on this page. Particularly like the barge blue canvas bartlebyyphonics and your pair of much washed Backwoods William.

Here are my Whooper Backwoods, really great jeans and my go-to pair this summer.

 

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thanks dear sir!

nice fit and jeans you have there!

to extend the barge blue business I share an oft-worn combo of oft-worn newlyn fisherman smock w. 134 trews for steely baby blue stiff cotton tuta

i really appreciate the way in which tender items do not fuss with details but frame fades through attention to fabric and fabrication

as said elsewhere in the thread, I think these trews will outwear me...

 

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Edited by bartlebyyphonics
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thanks arthur and bartleby! This is the first time I've seen a pair of Whooper jeans out in the wild- the fit looks great on you. Bartlyby, your trews look great, and are perfect with the smock. 

I'm currently away from the studio for a few weeks, but before I went I sent out the first deliveries from the Autumn/Winter production. Some new shirts and accessories are already in stock at Oi Polloi, Present, and Superdenim, with more to follow to all stockists shortly. I'll describe thing in more details once I'm back, but in the meantime here's a preview:

000000010001.thumb.jpg.2a62cc857a2da6f5a09edcccd5e5c2e3.jpg000000010004.thumb.jpg.b8d0fee0c1906d693c07ab5fda3c189f.jpg000000010010.thumb.jpg.348ac2c4e47635abeaf95252174b0c70.jpg000000010011.thumb.jpg.676ccf6f36bb8cf04abdc50cf65d7ea6.jpg000000020003.thumb.jpg.bf9e5b11a7f52f9e977d87fa25930dd4.jpg000000020006.thumb.jpg.28e904dfcf859fc551b8de172c56171d.jpg000000020008.thumb.jpg.f89902b240762c1cd137eb0bd16d860a.jpg000000030002.thumb.jpg.2f1272dd2e103ed19b5ed29d4162a8f8.jpg000000030007.thumb.jpg.091d67f39c43a6cddc1deee24ddfc633.jpg000000030009.thumb.jpg.671251fcdfb6772fb4aca79a01d1aee1.jpg000000040003.thumb.jpg.39cd1991cdb6d892e6f8d7e72baad5f8.jpg000000040008.thumb.jpg.2c22cce62b1a2b727f8af4144f3757c5.jpg000000040010.thumb.jpg.298e145669002e670b37eb48e4bd47a9.jpg000000040012.thumb.jpg.fb24358903d769e73ec2b464545a405d.jpg000000060005.thumb.jpg.c06bdf90acc6fa893a40e49b7f6a1230.jpg000000060007.thumb.jpg.6e96c2d1d3a6def566c7547008a3b7c7.jpg000000060009.thumb.jpg.145bbf8a48c748b9533600ca3bcc8c6a.jpg000000060012.thumb.jpg.1a5d4463e2cf3b584e3c2ae993aece38.jpg000000070001.thumb.jpg.0fa9ed70ee6739ab159fecc144901e04.jpg000000070006.thumb.jpg.7b205a19ef57800c8eb5b2238028a7a5.jpg000000070007.thumb.jpg.7f352b756ccc3f88c2e9cf4ecb9aa4c6.jpg000000070011.thumb.jpg.474985d51829c9fb9335a4e6ffc954dd.jpg000000080001.thumb.jpg.1bd6834eaa85d2c7f40263849be88ee7.jpg000000080006.thumb.jpg.fddfb24201e50658bcd6e822304ecd5e.jpg000000080008.thumb.jpg.d23be5abc964b0ebe24f8b8a041135d2.jpg000000080009.thumb.jpg.0ce1ab5b4daad31b1be311ed2b764cb0.jpg000000080011.thumb.jpg.a589a6f2ff88dea4556de3c37834712a.jpg000000080012.thumb.jpg.b2596493947c45b7438811bc547aeb5e.jpg

There are lots of details and good stories in here- more soon!

 

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fingers crossed to see some 127 molleton jeans =P

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