braille_teeth

Tender Co. Denim

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Could someone help me understand the various denim colors, e.g., walnut, logwood, woad, ...? Thank you!

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^ Those are all the sources of various natural dyes that are used to overdye a pair of indigo-dyed Tender jeans. William documents the overdyeing process really closely in one of the early pages of this thread. Hope that helps!

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Not really, because I do not understand the colors those lead to.

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Posted (edited)

http://www.madebytender.com/category/dyes/

 

this might help. but @chicote is right, if you want to know the details on the dyes from the colours (walnut = brownish, logwood = blackish, woad = indigoish, then there's wattle, clorophyll, khaki, turmeric, etc), to how the garments are dyed, or how the different dyes react to different materials (eg logwood on denim v. logwood on a belt, or shoes!), you should have a read on the earlier pages of this thread. i find it fascinating.

you can start with this page: https://supertalk.superfuture.com/topic/98577-tender-co-denim/?page=4

 

Edited by oomslokop
for clarity
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On 08/04/2017 at 10:03 PM, JDelage said:

Could someone help me understand the various denim colors, e.g., walnut, logwood, woad, ...? Thank you!

Thanks J! And thanks very much Chicote and Ooms. 
Sorry for the confusion. As Chicote says, all Tender denim jeans start out cut from raw Japanese 'standard' denim (you can also buy these 'unborn', or rinse washed). Once the jeans are sewn they are also offered overdyed in various natural/historical dyes. You'll always see the original denim through the overdye, and they'll wear and fade out together, so it's more of a colour casting, rather than the harsher brighter colour you'd get with a coloured weft (e.g. Pure Blue, Tenryo etc) Here's a list to date of all the natural dyed jeans (not all still available), and a rough colour reference:

  • woad (deep blue)
  • natural indigo (dustier blue)
  • weld (soft yellow)
  • black logwood (greyish black)
  • purple logwood (purplish grey)
  • brown wattle (mid brown)
  • red/tan wattle (warm reddish tan)
  • walnut (dark brown)
  • true khaki (khaki, greenish)

there have been various other dyes used for other garments, but this is all the ones that have gone onto jeans. I hope it helps a little! As I've mentioned before, Tender is still a tiny operation, and I only make the garment configurations that get ordered by shops, so often a particular cut/size/fabric/dye combination will only be made up in a couple of pairs for a particular stockist. It can make it a little tricky to find a specific style, but it does keep each person's jeans unlike the next. 

Please feel free to email me if you're after anything in particular, or need more information.

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Posted (edited)

Very cool, thank you!

 

Have you considered casting the belt buckles in bronze rather than brass? 

Edited by JDelage
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Posted (edited)

The new stuff looks excellent William.

Here's a quick update on my 129s. They are really beginning to break in. The first couple of pictures also show small repairs I did on the yoke - using my hands; not the sewing machine - "chicote-style": 

 

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_52_29.jpg

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Photo_11-04-2017,_11_51_06.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_50_55.jpg

Edited by Nei.Nor
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1 hour ago, Nei.Nor said:

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_52_16.jpg

thank you! these look lovely. Really interesting to see the diagonal fade line on the back pocket^^. I've not seen this before but makes sense- the denim pocket panel is cut straight, but the lining is cut on the bias, so that it will stretch over a wallet etc and never get tight inside the pocket. It looks as if some small pleats have formed in the pocket lining, along its grain (i.e. at 45° to the denim grain), and they've rubbed through as fade lines. Does that sound right? Looks great anyway! Thank you again for posting.

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3 hours ago, rodeo bill said:

thank you! these look lovely. Really interesting to see the diagonal fade line on the back pocket^^. I've not seen this before but makes sense- the denim pocket panel is cut straight, but the lining is cut on the bias, so that it will stretch over a wallet etc and never get tight inside the pocket. It looks as if some small pleats have formed in the pocket lining, along its grain (i.e. at 45° to the denim grain), and they've rubbed through as fade lines. Does that sound right? Looks great anyway! Thank you again for posting.

That's exactly it! ;)

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Love the new season William. Here are a few pics of the shirt, undershirt and socks I received not too long back. 

IMG_5712.JPG

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IMG_5191.JPG

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thank you Jason! these look really great on you- I'm so happy the fits worked out so well.

On another note, here are my Whooper Backwoods, a few weeks in. I've been washing them frequently and wearing them every day. They're slow faders, because of the open end spinning (the ends of the fibres stick out of the yarn, making it hairier than ringspun, and more porous during dyeing, so it soaks up and retains more indigo), but they're getting a really nice clean vintage tone which reminds me a lot of 70s-80s USA made jeans. No leg twist on these as they're broken twill, but by this stage the left and right hand twill versions should be getting really twisty.

FullSizeRender_3.thumb.jpg.bcc53f38e6a268d600cc81114e0e2251.jpgIMG_1748.thumb.JPG.e58bef149a96ed3c319c9fadf6899aed.JPGIMG_1751.thumb.JPG.845fde9a7946d9101aede36e43d0983f.JPGIMG_1752.thumb.JPG.62e99f6f9fdbe309aa5c8995c148e663.JPG

more photos in a few months, this is still early stages but I'm enjoying them a lot and I think they'll be good coming into the summer.

 

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molleton 129 worn since november, still unwashed. i love the molleton fabric, if i had my way, i'll molleton all my jeans! it's so fluffy but still retains the rigidness of raw jeans.

william explained the molleton process in an email: "the molleton finish is made on the raw denim, and it doesn’t involve getting the fabric, so it doesn’t shrink during the fabric finishing. This means that the garments are made up from the raw molleton denim, and then they are shrunk to size during rinsing or dyeing, just like the other jeans, which gives them the leg twist, shrunken seams, etc."

worn almost everyday.

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5 hours ago, oomslokop said:

the molleton finish is made on the raw denim, and it doesn’t involve getting the fabric wet, so it doesn’t shrink during the fabric finishing. This means that the garments are made up from the raw molleton denim, and then they are shrunk to size during rinsing or dyeing, just like the other jeans, which gives them the leg twist, shrunken seams, etc.

thanks for the review! looking good, and I'm really pleased you're enjoying them. Just correcting my own typo above

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I mentioned a while back that I was after a new strap for my Tender Tux watch - William kindly made the expanding bracelet from the GS/TP range available. Highly recommended - easy to adjust links and more comfortable than most bracelet straps 

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IMG_1294.JPG

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^nice! Thank you for posting these- your watch looks great on the bracelet.

Here's mine- I did exactly the same thing for my Tender watch, and put a Tender 2-piece natural wattle-tanned leather strap on my GS/TP:

IMG_1858.thumb.JPG.49f0ec4e1cbc7b8bab4f3770b1e5f630.JPG

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Posted (edited)

jakarta's chinese christian guv'nor is convicted for blasphemy against islam and a protest to defend him was ended with a long muslim prayer delivered by a man whose voice cracked with genuine sadness. that my friend, is indonesia in a nutshell. 

went to the protest in my wallaby shirt in khaki sateen. 

 

FB_IMG_1494433365865.jpg

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the dress code for the protest was red and white (colours of indo flag). i didn't have a céline tee ready.

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IMG_20170510_132459_939.jpg

Edited by oomslokop
order of photos
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probably a stupid question, but can the molleton denim be dyed in say woad?  

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^not a stupid question at all. Yes, molleton denim can be dyed up once the garment is made, just the same as with regular denim. I currently have stock of 130P (tapered leg with passenger pockets) and 132 (wide straight leg) denim molleton dyed dark brown walnut, which comes out really rich on the softer surface of the molleton. We did have a few woad dyed molleton jeans, but we're currently out of stock. Please feel free to email me (or ask here) if you need any more information.

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Hello gentlemen!

can anybody sell me a piece of Tender's old collection watches?

 like these ones:

 

watches.jpg

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Hello all

Sharing....

Some shots of a pair of plain ol' rinsed denim 130

had 'bout 3 years, but worn in rotation with many other things.

a fit pic

some details (outside light and inside natural light)

the denim gets better and better and better

and the fit of top block is great

and construction is suuuuper

 

001.jpg

002.jpg

003.jpg

004I.jpg

004ii.jpg

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+

134 trews don't seem to get much love

they should

lovely clean design

the barge-blue cotton duck is both super solid/rigid and yet with a plush soft hand

a combination of 'baggy trouser' with solid sculptural feel

about 2 years in, gaining some fades and crinkles

they are stubborn but feel like they will literally last you a lifetime 

007.jpg

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last of image dump

keeping with the canvas...

ecru 132d paired with a cheaney veldtschoen boot

plus some texture

004.jpg

006.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I've just started going through this thread, and I have to say this is one of the most informative thread (if not most) I have come across on sufu. Really interesting to read all the thought processes, information, and see pictures on everything involved on producing Tender products.

Edited by Niro
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Just back from an unforgettable trip to Iceland. Here are a few of my Tender items I brought with me. 

I think the low tension cotton sateen has to be one of my favorite fabrics yet.

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IMG_9724.JPG

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reading mandarin and javanese with the kid today

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Update on my over-dyed Tender jacket that I have owned for over 3 years now.

Here is what it looked like when I purchased it:

2uZlrcH.jpg

 

And three years later:

I added a pocket on the chest with a different denim

TK51KmV.jpg

and I am currently working on repairing the bottom of the jacket with peach colored thread.

Xs17Ig8.jpg

 

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beautiful, FAM, thank you! I'll play:

IMG_1945_2.thumb.JPG.f81a8596781564e2fc068c6896284a3d.JPGIMG_1946_2.thumb.JPG.2fbbd2ea14447602528f29f51c158012.JPG

I think yours has the edge actually, and I love the extra pocket. Ages ago Morten of For Holding Up The Trousers used a button as a brand for some of our leathergoods, and I've worn it as the top button of my jacket since- it got really blackened:

IMG_1947_2.thumb.JPG.7fc37a4e3301bee441953da2ce67212e.JPG

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