braille_teeth

Tender Co. Denim

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Could someone help me understand the various denim colors, e.g., walnut, logwood, woad, ...? Thank you!

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^ Those are all the sources of various natural dyes that are used to overdye a pair of indigo-dyed Tender jeans. William documents the overdyeing process really closely in one of the early pages of this thread. Hope that helps!

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Not really, because I do not understand the colors those lead to.

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Posted (edited)

http://www.madebytender.com/category/dyes/

 

this might help. but @chicote is right, if you want to know the details on the dyes from the colours (walnut = brownish, logwood = blackish, woad = indigoish, then there's wattle, clorophyll, khaki, turmeric, etc), to how the garments are dyed, or how the different dyes react to different materials (eg logwood on denim v. logwood on a belt, or shoes!), you should have a read on the earlier pages of this thread. i find it fascinating.

you can start with this page: https://supertalk.superfuture.com/topic/98577-tender-co-denim/?page=4

 

Edited by oomslokop
for clarity
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On 08/04/2017 at 10:03 PM, JDelage said:

Could someone help me understand the various denim colors, e.g., walnut, logwood, woad, ...? Thank you!

Thanks J! And thanks very much Chicote and Ooms. 
Sorry for the confusion. As Chicote says, all Tender denim jeans start out cut from raw Japanese 'standard' denim (you can also buy these 'unborn', or rinse washed). Once the jeans are sewn they are also offered overdyed in various natural/historical dyes. You'll always see the original denim through the overdye, and they'll wear and fade out together, so it's more of a colour casting, rather than the harsher brighter colour you'd get with a coloured weft (e.g. Pure Blue, Tenryo etc) Here's a list to date of all the natural dyed jeans (not all still available), and a rough colour reference:

  • woad (deep blue)
  • natural indigo (dustier blue)
  • weld (soft yellow)
  • black logwood (greyish black)
  • purple logwood (purplish grey)
  • brown wattle (mid brown)
  • red/tan wattle (warm reddish tan)
  • walnut (dark brown)
  • true khaki (khaki, greenish)

there have been various other dyes used for other garments, but this is all the ones that have gone onto jeans. I hope it helps a little! As I've mentioned before, Tender is still a tiny operation, and I only make the garment configurations that get ordered by shops, so often a particular cut/size/fabric/dye combination will only be made up in a couple of pairs for a particular stockist. It can make it a little tricky to find a specific style, but it does keep each person's jeans unlike the next. 

Please feel free to email me if you're after anything in particular, or need more information.

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Posted (edited)

Very cool, thank you!

 

Have you considered casting the belt buckles in bronze rather than brass? 

Edited by JDelage
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Posted (edited)

The new stuff looks excellent William.

Here's a quick update on my 129s. They are really beginning to break in. The first couple of pictures also show small repairs I did on the yoke - using my hands; not the sewing machine - "chicote-style": 

 

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_52_29.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_52_16.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_52_11.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_51_54.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_51_25.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_51_20.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_51_17.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_51_09.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_51_06.jpg

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_50_55.jpg

Edited by Nei.Nor
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1 hour ago, Nei.Nor said:

Photo_11-04-2017,_11_52_16.jpg

thank you! these look lovely. Really interesting to see the diagonal fade line on the back pocket^^. I've not seen this before but makes sense- the denim pocket panel is cut straight, but the lining is cut on the bias, so that it will stretch over a wallet etc and never get tight inside the pocket. It looks as if some small pleats have formed in the pocket lining, along its grain (i.e. at 45° to the denim grain), and they've rubbed through as fade lines. Does that sound right? Looks great anyway! Thank you again for posting.

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3 hours ago, rodeo bill said:

thank you! these look lovely. Really interesting to see the diagonal fade line on the back pocket^^. I've not seen this before but makes sense- the denim pocket panel is cut straight, but the lining is cut on the bias, so that it will stretch over a wallet etc and never get tight inside the pocket. It looks as if some small pleats have formed in the pocket lining, along its grain (i.e. at 45° to the denim grain), and they've rubbed through as fade lines. Does that sound right? Looks great anyway! Thank you again for posting.

That's exactly it! ;)

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Love the new season William. Here are a few pics of the shirt, undershirt and socks I received not too long back. 

IMG_5712.JPG

IMG_5708.JPG

IMG_5191.JPG

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thank you Jason! these look really great on you- I'm so happy the fits worked out so well.

On another note, here are my Whooper Backwoods, a few weeks in. I've been washing them frequently and wearing them every day. They're slow faders, because of the open end spinning (the ends of the fibres stick out of the yarn, making it hairier than ringspun, and more porous during dyeing, so it soaks up and retains more indigo), but they're getting a really nice clean vintage tone which reminds me a lot of 70s-80s USA made jeans. No leg twist on these as they're broken twill, but by this stage the left and right hand twill versions should be getting really twisty.

FullSizeRender_3.thumb.jpg.bcc53f38e6a268d600cc81114e0e2251.jpgIMG_1748.thumb.JPG.e58bef149a96ed3c319c9fadf6899aed.JPGIMG_1751.thumb.JPG.845fde9a7946d9101aede36e43d0983f.JPGIMG_1752.thumb.JPG.62e99f6f9fdbe309aa5c8995c148e663.JPG

more photos in a few months, this is still early stages but I'm enjoying them a lot and I think they'll be good coming into the summer.

 

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