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Tender Co. Denim

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photos are taken at our allotment, by Rory Cole, on medium format film. 

 

There are a lot of things I'm really excited with for this production, which has been the biggest yet (hence the later arrival of garments than usual). Shirts, hats, and various other things are still being finished up, but shops should start having things available over the next few days. More details to come, but one of the most exciting things was getting hold of some deadstock Irish-spun linen yarn, and having it woven into a beautiful canvas and soft calendered shirt cloth, and knitted into pullovers and hats. There's a lovely soft pink from madder, and hand-engraved wood block-printed Tshirts and leather goods by Chris Daunt (last time there were screen printed Tshirts from his artwork, this time Chris has actually printed directly onto the garments!). More soon  :)

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a couple more product details (to be continued with more whenever have a minute)

Button-down Tshirts (as above, on Deborah) went directly into Chris' Albion press:

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here's the block, being carved:

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and here;s a wallet and coin purse, printed in the same way:

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Here's my own coin purse, been in my back pocket for nearly a year now. The ink's mostly worn away, and the leather's darkened enormously, but the impression's still clear:

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And here, incidentally, are Chris' logwood 129s, and rough out boots:

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:)

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Here's a knitted linen hat. The yarn is around 40 years old, and has a great deadstock smell (which fades after a few days). It's made in a cardigan stitch, which is like an opened-out rib, and shows the character of the yarn really well. The hat matches pullovers (photo above) in rinsed and woad-dyed linen, which will be appearing in quite a few shops. This hat is a special for the Stores.

 

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Finally got my hands on a belt. A tad on the small side, and I'm afraid it won't be stretching any time soon due to thickness. 

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Edited by discop

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^thank you! the leather looks great. You'd be surprised how much stretch you can get out of it if you need- try greasing it a bit then giving it a stretch. The nuclear option (which I've done, and it worked well) is to soak the belt in cool water for a couple of hours, then stretch it out- depending on the starting size you could get up to an inch this way. Let it dry out slowly at room temperature (too warm and it will crack) then give it a lot of grease to replace what was lost in the water. I reckon one of these ways you'll at least get it comfy on the end hole, and maybe bring it in one hole. You'll probably darken the leather quite a bit, but personally that's a plus. If you give it a try let us know how you get on!

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^thank you! the leather looks great. You'd be surprised how much stretch you can get out of it if you need- try greasing it a bit then giving it a stretch. The nuclear option (which I've done, and it worked well) is to soak the belt in cool water for a couple of hours, then stretch it out- depending on the starting size you could get up to an inch this way. Let it dry out slowly at room temperature (too warm and it will crack) then give it a lot of grease to replace what was lost in the water. I reckon one of these ways you'll at least get it comfy on the end hole, and maybe bring it in one hole. You'll probably darken the leather quite a bit, but personally that's a plus. If you give it a try let us know how you get on!

 

The one hole is jut a tiny bit snug so I'll give it a go with the grease! Then we'll see the water test. Thanks for the tips, I'll be posting my woad 130s soon, maybe after a wash. Excited to start wearing my canvas barge coat soon, once the Canadian winter goes away!

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William, the new season of clothing looks really great! I love to see more photos of the sweater if possible, the hat looks amazing! Also, the photo of Deborah clipping leaves, what material is her shirt (dark blue)?

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About 8 months of wear, off and on on some woad dyes.

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Edited by discop

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William, the new season of clothing looks really great! I love to see more photos of the sweater if possible, the hat looks amazing! Also, the photo of Deborah clipping leaves, what material is her shirt (dark blue)?

 

Thanks Jason! Sorry for the delay. Sweater photos soon, I promise- the stitch matches the hat, and the sleeves are wrist-height. The fabric you're asking about is barge blue keep keeper's cloth, dyed woad. It's a new, custom, fabric, woven in England and designed like the cellular fabric used on some beekeeping clothing, the idea being that the bees crawl over the top layer, and can't sting though the height of the cloth, without it being too heavy. Pics soon too!

 

In the meantime, here's a photo from a very good customer of his father in law's beautiful 18k Omega seamaster, on a black oak bark leather 2-piece strap:

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Among the thousands of things I have to get to is photographing some new dark brown oak bark watch straps, as well as various other new leather pieces that came in last week.  :)

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Thanks William, I know you're super busy and appreciate the response. Anxiously awaiting all the new releases. It's always great seeing all the new dyes and fabrics you work with.

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Thanks so much Jason, and I'm really sorry for the delays. Most shops have now had their (first) deliveries, so it really shouldn't be long now! Very happy to answer questions though, as always. Here are a few closeup photos of the new pullover:

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The main thing about this, like the hat, is the beautiful yarn. You can really feel the age in it, but it's also extremely supple and fluid once it's knitted up.

 

The edges of the cuffs and hem are clean-finished, with no rib, and the neck has a nice tubular roll on it. The shoulders are cut flat, like Tender Tshirts. I only have one piece of in stock on the Stores, but there should be the full size available at various different stockists. 

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Beautiful knit on that sweater, I like the heavy gauge!

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thanks Broark!

 

More garment details as soon as I get a minute. In the meantime, a small teaser for a project I've been working on with Akira, my partner in Tokyo:

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We're still sorting everything out, so I'll put more photos up as soon as possible. For anyone in Tokyo, the address is #101 FORUM SENDAGAYA, 3-15-14 SENDAGAYA, SHIBUYA, TOKYO 151-0051, JAPAN. You can contact me with any questions, or you contact Akira directly in Japanese or English at [email protected]

 

exciting!

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A Tender Store existing somewhere in Asia is definitely 1 of my wet dreams...  :ph34r:  :D

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I'm definitely looking forward to the spring summer stuff, much more fitting for the climate.

I was really thinking about the type 950 jacket but realized I don't really need a wool overcoat where I live.  :D

William, who would you say carries the most of your goods in the US? Just want to keep my eyes peeled!

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Is anyone else worshipping at the altar of Tender tonight at Oi Polloi? 

 

great to meet you last night! sorry not to mention this in advance- the guys at Oi Polloi wanted to keep it invite-only from their customers. They took a video and photos so I'm hoping I'll get something through soon and I'll certainly put something up here.

 

^^thanks Redragon! I'll keep you all posted, but Akira has stock in and is open for business, so do pop by, anyone in town.

 

^Broark, it's pretty mixed, but I'd say Unionmade usually has the biggest selection. They got their new delivery last week, so presumably things will appear online shortly.

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Here's an altered wattle 420 shirt. I loved the shirt so much I ended up purchasing 2 of them. On this one I decided to remove the side pockets and make one standard shirt pocket. The pocket ended up being a little larger than I hoped but ended up working out with the  size of my new phone (iphone6 plus).

I'm also wearing my Ottoman Dart Shoulder Jacket in Logwood and wattle socks.

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Almost exactly a year on........ new season square-tailed shirts and panel lined jackets all feature a 'Vaughn Pocket'  :)

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(shirt photos from Oi Polloi, jacket from Meadow)

 

Thank you Jason!

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can you tell me the details of this shirt/henley hybrid (?) william? thank you.

 

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^thanks for this! Where is it? This is a new style, type 377, based on the 355 Tshirt. The body is cut in one piece, folded over the shoulder, and there's no rib anywhere- the neck has a narrow, flatlocked, hem, and the cuffs and bottom edge both have deep hems on them, giving it a nice weight at these points. There's a herringbone tape placket all the way down the front, with melamine buttons. The fabric is the same interlock jersey as other Tender Tshirts, which is really soft and substantial. It's available in raw ecru, or dyed with woad (as above) or madder, and plain or hand printed by Chris Daunt from his lemon-wood block engraving of the Tender Elephant (pictures on the previous page). Here are some clearer photos of three of these options:

 

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thanks bill! it's from a shop in hk, a friend is there and saw it and thought i might be interested. :) i'll ask him where exactly. 

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Here are some early-stage wearing in photos of a new style, an oak bark-tanned leather card case done as a special for Oi Polloi and the Trestle Shop. It's a full belt-thickness slab of oak bark leather, wrapped with a thinned down section so that it has pockets for a card on each side (or folded notes, etc). I use mine for my London transport Oyster card and my college i.d. Here's mine after a couple of months in my back pocket:

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and here it is new, in the natural tan (as above):

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and in black:

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btw bill, is the tender workshop in london?

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Quick question about the type 827 cap: is it very warm or is it more breathable?

Assuming that it's linen it must be fairly cool. I think the color is great and would make for a good spring / summer cap if it's not too warm.

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btw bill, is the tender workshop in london?

thanks for this- no, we live in a small town in the Westcountry. We moved out of London a couple of years ago. I work from home, from a small studio at the end of the garden, but everything's made in various ateliers and factories all over the UK. 

 

Quick question about the type 827 cap: is it very warm or is it more breathable?

Assuming that it's linen it must be fairly cool. I think the color is great and would make for a good spring / summer cap if it's not too warm.

 

thank you Broark! Yes, it's nice and cool- the knit is quite open, and as you say, the linen is cool to wear. It's intended as a summer cap. I hope this helps

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cool idea for the card case.

How thick would you say it is in centimetres?

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Thanks Niro  :) the case is 10.5cm (~4") wide by 7cm (~2.5") tall, and the total thickness is around 0.8cm (~5/16")

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thanks :)

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