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Tender Co. Denim


braille_teeth

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^lovely! the feathers are amazing. There are jeans, trews, and shorts in barge canvas of various colours, as well as some flannel shorts. I've had a quick look through the orders and I'm afraid none of these have gone out to UK stockists, but I have quite a bit to go up in the Stores. Please email me if you'd like any more details. Also now shipped and showing up pretty soon are jeans in some new special lightweight denim, based on the fabric of some vintage British Rail denim over-pants which I found in a uniform archive.

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I've been threatening to do this for a while. 

 

129 rinsed. about 1 year. maybe 10 months of daily wear. Maybe 5 machine washes. lots of repairs to seams, back left pocket, knees and the crotch.

 

 

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Beautiful! Thank you Satchel, those knees are crazy....

 

Here are some photos of the making of the new Tshirts' graphic. It was painted by hand by a sign writer who's being doing this since he was 15. It was a pleasure to experience!

 

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After marking out the basic geometry, and using masking tape to block off an arc, the letters are painted in, using a wand to support the brush:

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The roses are put in freehand. Normally these would be done in more colours, but I wanted a simple two-colour graphic for screen printing:

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A border gets measured in with compasses (I didn't end up using this, but it helps keep the proportions of the leaves right):

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And the finishing daisies and grass sprays are added in:

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As well as Tshirts and bags printed with this design, there are some special hand painted jackets, showing up soon at Peggs & Son, Centre Commercial, and Harvey Nichols Baku. There are also some tin mugs:

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and horseshoes:

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Perhaps my favourite, though are wallets, hand painted with roses. I've been using my own for a few weeks and it's doing really nicely. Here are some photos:

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I really like how you can still see the original pencil sketch lines underneath the paint!

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William, thanks for sharing! 

 

How is this transferred to the clothing? I assume you make some screen prints and do the colours seperately by hand?

Thanks! Yes, this pattern was separated out and screen printed, onto garments, before dying them. e.g. like these:

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the accessories in my last post are all literally hand painted onto the otherwise finished item

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  • 2 weeks later...

^thank you! lovely photos.

 

Sorry for the lack of posts in the last couple of weeks. I've been doing a lot of days teaching (more on that soon), packing up and getting out the new production of shirts (arriving in shops in the next few days), and working on something nice that'll be ready soon, but has taken a great deal of effort! In the mean time, I've been sent some fantastic images by a great friend of the brand, Marc Anderson DesRochers. These first are from a shoot for his new album, with Tender jeans, long sleeve T, and woggle matched up with a beautiful home-made shirt and indigo dyed bandana:

 

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and with a cobalt glazed mug  :)

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and a couple more in the snow, with a double-breasted double-blue tweed jacket with calico facings, woad jeans, and the same woad long sleeved T:

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Thank you very much indeed, Marc, for the photos and all the support and enthusiasm

Edited by rodeo bill
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Another nice thing that came through this week is a review of woad denim 129s by The Well Dressed Dad. It's a really thoughtful, full, and kind, review, and well worth a look. Here are the author's fit pics:

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these jeans came from the New State Store, a new shop online from the UK with some really nice things, parallel to their Vintage State site. Worth a look!

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  • 2 weeks later...

With this hot yellow thing in the sky - apparently it's called the 'sun' - I thought I'd put on one of my favourite tender pieces i have. I really like the colour on this and the bias cut gives it extra texture :D

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Edited by BillyHoyle
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Hi

Just a few questions and minor critiques about Tender jeans in particular my 130s. I've been wearing them regularly since the weather is getting cooler. In no particular order.

Snob pocket half lined. I usually keep coins, keys in this pocket and found that when sitting down the coins would ride up in between the calico fabric and denim. Is there a reason why it is not fully lined or bottom hem sewn.

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Why 2 buttons. Not sure if this varies from person to person in terms of fit. I find when squatting excessively (:D) the fly flap is pulled out a little and imo a third button would tighten the area.

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I understand that 100% cotton ages better and works best with the woad dye process but why not poly/cotton blend? The fly and button holes have been repaired and were worn occasionally during summer.

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Care label. I actually prefer the label this way but the polyester frays around the edges alternatively a paper-like version imo would of been cool to soak in the woad dye and age with the jeans.

Anyway I like to add Tender jeans are still my favourite, would be awesome if changes, measures be made on thread construction for that added durability.

Over and out.

Edited by Sigur Rós
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^thank you very much for all of this, Rós, and great photos. Some of this is personal preference, but I understand all your points, and here are some responses:

 

Snob pocket half lined. I usually keep coins, keys in this pocket and found that when sitting down the coins would ride up in between the calico fabric and denim. Is there a reason why it is not fully lined or bottom hem sewn.

  • There's no particular reason for this, but it hasn't ever been an issue for me, and I've not heard of it before. To be honest, I keep my coins in a coin purse in my back pocket, so that's never come up, and when I've kept a key in there I've never had a problem. The half-lining is a vintage reference (I can't remember exactly where from now, but I've seen this on old tailored garments), and I like that it keeps everything very flat and simple.

Why 2 buttons. Not sure if this varies from person to person in terms of fit. I find when squatting excessively (:D) the fly flap is pulled out a little and imo a third button would tighten the area. 

 
  • The 2-button fly is a reference to British Rail overall pants. When I was making the first version I experimented with 1, 2, 3 or 4 fly buttons, but 4 seemed unnecessarily many, and 3 feels too fashion/low-rise to me. I actually really liked just one fly button (and I’ve seen it on some vintage garments) but it’s not really practical. To me, 2 buttons keeps the fly done up nicely (there’s also quite a deep button stand, so I've never felt a risk of exposure!) and there’s nothing extraneous. 

I understand that 100% cotton ages better and works best with the woad dye process but why not poly/cotton blend? The fly and button holes have been repaired and were worn occasionally during summer.

  • This is something I've certainly considered, but I just stand by the purist approach of 100% cotton, and I really like to see small repairs like yours. That said, based on similar wearing-out to what you show I've changed the last two productions so that the stitch sewing on the fly is in fact polycotton, as is the outside leg seam (I was finding occasional blowouts over the pocket end). I think yours are of the generation where the side seam is polycotton but the fly stitch isn't yet. My apologies for this, but as I say, I think your repair looks great.

 

Speaking of repairs, here are some lovely pairs just back off to Japan today after a quick trip to the factory for some TLC:

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Thanks for the reply.

Will we be seeing the new light weight denim anytime soon...

I also missed the Hillside collab will there be another one in the near future and... lining on Tender jackets like the older models. Cheers

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Here's an altered wattle 420 shirt. I loved the shirt so much I ended up purchasing 2 of them. On this one I decided to remove the side pockets and make one standard shirt pocket. The pocket ended up being a little larger than I hoped but ended up working out with the  size of my new phone (iphone6 plus).

I'm also wearing my Ottoman Dart Shoulder Jacket in Logwood and wattle socks.

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Having that!  Satchel and Jason

 

 

 

 

Speaking of repairs, here are some lovely pairs just back off to Japan today after a quick trip to the factory for some TLC:

 

 

 

 

 

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This pair is incredible

 

 

I'm going to get involved with one of those stock collar shirts. . debating between the carrot or barge blue.

Edited by merzbot
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Thanks for the reply.

Will we be seeing the new light weight denim anytime soon...

I also missed the Hillside collab will there be another one in the near future and... lining on Tender jackets like the older models. Cheers

Thanks for this, and sorry to be so slow posting back. Lightweight denim should start appearing around stockists any day now. It was a very limited weaving run (200m) as a special, which made about 50 pairs across various different styles. Lightweight woad dyed 130s are available no at For Holding Up The Trousers, complete with suspender buttons, here, or woad trews are at Unionmade here. Shorts with suspender buttons are at Unionmade and with belt loops are on the Stores.

 

No more Hill-Side jeans in the running at at the moment, but Hickoree's will be getting some other special shirts in the next couple of weeks. Noted about lined jackets, I'll have a think!

 

Here's an altered wattle 420 shirt. I loved the shirt so much I ended up purchasing 2 of them. On this one I decided to remove the side pockets and make one standard shirt pocket. The pocket ended up being a little larger than I hoped but ended up working out with the  size of my new phone (iphone6 plus).

I'm also wearing my Ottoman Dart Shoulder Jacket in Logwood and wattle socks.

 

Superb! It's so lovely to see your mods, Jason- thank you.

 

Having that!  Satchel and Jason

 

 

This pair is incredible

 

 

I'm going to get involved with one of those stock collar shirts. . debating between the carrot or barge blue.

Seems like a good excuse to post up this, Unionmade's latest mailer. I always really love theirs, and they've done a lovely job presenting their new Tender delivery:

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Got these in late last week:

 

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size 2 132s in Unborn denim. I couldn't get over the raw texture:

 

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They've already been up to quite a lot. A couple hours of bike riding on their first day out, followed the next day by a music festival a bunch of my buddies were playing in. No pictures from that, yet, but it was a lot of fun!

 

Now they're drying off after an adventure across the river this afternoon:

 

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I came across an old cable car that runs maybe 15m above the river on the opposite bank. Unfortunately, it was chained up--I'd love to free it some day!

 

These have kicked the Sugar Canes out as my DWC pair--the fit and denim draws me to them, but there's something about the character of the jeans themselves that i find equally appealing. I suppose it's partly that all my previous jeans seem to have needed prolonged wear to take on a personality; what surprised me is that these jeans already have (or had) one of their own. I'm definitely very happy about the switch!

Edited by chicote
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Was in London Bridge station and someone walker past me in woad dyed Tender jeans. Never seen a pair in the flesh before and the colours were so striking, I knew exactly what they were from a mile off. Really makes me want a pair this year.

 

Dude enjoyed my LVC 1933's with Pike Brothers braces I think!

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The tender item i have been wearing the most since the last season, is this turmeric dyed shirt.

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I really like the thickness and the texture of the cotton and throughout the winter months it's been a staple - used mainly under jumpers.

 

Having worn this in the sun, during the last few weeks, I didn't realise how much the colour has changed. Despite the awful pictures, I hope this shows a bit of the difference between the inside and outside of the shirt. The inside which has had much less exposure to the sun remains close to the original 'egg yoke' yellow, while the outside (not captured very accurately here) is almost a pinkish/ecru yellow - quite hard to describe. But lovely.

 

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Having had a few other tshirts from Tender I've always enjoyed how the colour on the natural dye changes over time - but I have to say this is so far my favourite 'transformation'. 

Edited by BillyHoyle
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I'm sure I'll be corrected if im wrong - but the fit is very similar to jason995511's 420 above.

 

I think it's very versatile - I've worn it regularly with my tender 129's but also with some other slimmer jeans (e.g. cos). So I'd say it definitely works with slimmer cuts.

Edited by BillyHoyle
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Chicote, awesome, thank you! And Billy, your shirt looks terrific- thank you very much for posting. The turmeric does indeed fade faster than some of the other dyes, but settles down to a really lovely soft shade, as your pictures show. The contrast with the inside is brilliant- it shows this is light-fading rather than washing-fading. That shirt (dart-shoulder) has the same construction as the jacket shown a few pages back- the fronts and backs are cut in one continuous piece with  darter shoulder which provides the shape. The wide selvage inlay at the back matches up to the overlap in the front. Sigur- the top fit is similar to Jason's tail shirt, but the dart-shoulder version is shorter, with square tails, and wider cuffs. 

 

Here are some photos from a recently-completed Central St Martin's 2nd year menswear jeans project. I'm always really excited with the stuff that the students produce, and this year was another great set of collections. The project was generously sponsored by Paul Smith Red Ear, and the brief was to design a denim range for Red Ear starting with Japanese toys.

 

The photos were taken by Horst Friedrichs, who's books people might have seen already- he came along to the crit and kindly took these for the students: Jiwon Choi, Stefan Djokic, William Green, Hon Fai Thomas Li, Jonatan Ingberg, Taewon Kim, Lucy Ralph, Rebecca Langebaek, Jasmine Lee, Szewai Tong, Richard Oxley, Sergio Mendoza-Medrano, AJ Weir, Yoonki Yoo, Mateo Velasquez Largo, and Jaeyeoun Yoo

 

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