Jump to content
supertalk6
braille_teeth

Tender Co. Denim

Recommended Posts

once the fly's made, the front and back legs are sewn together, starting with the inseam. This is done with a safety seam and single chainstitch, like Levi's repros, but I reversed the direction of the inseam inlay, so that from the outside it points up rather than down. I find that one of the first places that my jeans blow out is at the inseam on the thighs, where the topstitched edge rubs against seats/bike saddles etc. I just reversed it so that the seam points away from whatever you're sitting on, and now it doesn't rub. My first pair is now pretty much knackered, and has fallen apart in plenty of places, but the inseam's still intact, so my experiment seems to have worked!

4574819617_901da43bcd.jpg

next the outside seam is sewn on a straight lockstitch machine

4575453350_9a22f7e289.jpg

I like quite a narrow selvage seam allowance, just 6mm each side:

4574820733_d19bc91a9d.jpg

and the outside seam is pressed open by hand

4575454426_c3aa270b8a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the hip sticth, sewn from the outside, keeps the pocket inlays in place. I don't like back-tacks in general, and particularly at the end of the hip-stotch, so the thred endes are pulled in to the inside of the garment. Here you can see Natu tieing off these loose ends so they don't ravel. This picture also shows the seat seam, which is a triple-stitch run and fell seam, and the yoke stitch, which is double needle. Again a place I get blow-outs is the seat, so and extra stitch line just keeps it going that bit longer

4574821903_ee623007e2.jpg

Now the waistband goes on, with a folder on a Kansai special chainstitch machine:

4575455542_4334d7549e.jpg

4574822985_6ed79e5af9.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the waistband edge stitch goes round in one, starting and ending with a vertical stitch:

4574823549_a685d4496a.jpg

The first time I visited Natu and Sarla's factory, in December, they offered me a cup of tea, and I was introduced to marsala chai for the first time. For anyone that's never had it, it;s one of the best hot drinks I've ever had- Indian tea mixed with cinamon, cloves, ginger, and cardamom, served with milk and sugar. Ive since had Somalian spice tea, which is similar but with more ginger and no cardamom. Pretty good too.

4574824099_86e39c3a21.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

keep posting bill, this is great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had a thing for lined belt loops for a while. TENDER's are lined with the same Lancashire-woven selvage calico that goes inside the hip pockets. First the loop and lining are pulled through a folder and pressed flat

4575457694_c362e40ae0.jpg

then Natu sews them together on a twin-needle machine

4575458288_2221188a4e.jpg

the loop lining is a nice detail (particularly after the jeans are hand dyed in natural indigo, and the lining takes on the lovely rich sky blue), but it also keeps the back smooth against your belt, and as all the inlays are in the centre, forms a nice ridge which wears beutifully

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the belt loops are cut up into 2 lengths. The side belt loops are slightly longer than the rest, so that the can reach down onto the yoke seam, which gives them a bit of extra support. I also quite like havign extra long side loops so I can hike my jeans up...

4575000873_2ffa2b0d69.jpg

4575636214_4579db76d8.jpg

the loops are bartacked on. TENDER jeans have 6 belt loops, which I think is a good number- 7 (Wrangler) seems overkill, but 5 (Levi's, Lee) leaves too much space between the centre-back and side loops, which can cause your belt to ride up above the waistband

4575003163_2fc4ec1774.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the hem is double folded inside- this is something I've seen on Japanese repros, and it gives a great raised ridge on the hem, which will improve the roping when the unsanforized fabric is washed, and skews.

4575635686_55f81483c0.jpg

Natu doesn't have a chainstitch hem machine, so the hems are sewn with a lockstitch. He used to have a Union Special, but he sold it when they downsized their factory. Very frustrating!

4575001511_3050003316.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

next the waistband buttonholes go on. First the regular buttonhole:

4575637520_36cc2b8bce.jpg

then the little straight hole that the removable hand-cast brass waistband button fits into

4575004361_2f53d59554.jpg

finally the rivets are put on with a kick press

4575698306_3cb00fca53.jpg

I'm using Japanese UNIVERSAL copper dome rivets. I'll get into why I'm not a fan of hidden hip-pocket rivets some other time...

4575697630_2e0a65fdc2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and there you have it! that's the process up to the raw sewn stage. They're still not shrunk, so they;re pretty massive

4575698876_d55017fc5f.jpg

The jeans and jackets are now in suitcases in my office/dining room, waiting to get back on the train to Norfolk next week (hopefully- depends on the weather) for dyeing. I'll keep you all posted!

4570095759_704dbe4f28.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty gangsta stuff man. Interested to see the final product.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^Me too. Great to see the process bill. Very much looking forward to the finished jeans! Gotta try that tea too..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

can we buy these directly from you? any discounts for sufu?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i want to know who the fuck ringring is.

He's the fucking master.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great details. I love the slanted front pockets. I hate it when my arms have to be perpendicular to the opening in order to get my hands in and out of Levi's style front pockets.

How about the jacket?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
can we buy these directly from you? any discounts for sufu?
Same thing.

Plebs. Just fucking plebs.

You are seeing this whole amazing process and the first thing that springs to mind is a fucking discount?

For shame! :mad:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@opie, I agree that the process is amazing. but the price of denim is not entirely related to its process. There is nothing shameful to buy directly from source and get a good deal. 50%-60% (i.e. around 110% markup) of the price you pay goes towards the middleman -the retailer. if we cut out the middleman it's natural that we pay less.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This thread just blew my mind. I was expecting some obscure lore about these jeans, maybe a few mutterings about seeing them in some lookbook... Those process photos, along with the commentary, are unreal. Thanks for showing us the shop-floor! These things look amazingly beautiful. I'm sure we'd all love to.. uhh.. "beta test" them, if you need any evolutionary data/telemetry for your marketing purposes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
@opie, I agree that the process is amazing. but the price of denim is not entirely related to its process. There is nothing shameful to buy directly from source and get a good deal. 50%-60% (i.e. around 110% markup) of the price you pay goes towards the middleman -the retailer. if we cut out the middleman it's natural that we pay less.

I take it back then. It just sounded like the first thought was "kan i haz 4 cheep" instead of ?!?1?"show me the pictures of your indigobath!".

From nerd to average consumer ;)

Also i'm sure he'll sell straight from source.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for all the enthusiasm guys! It really means a lot. no offence taken at all at beng asked for discounts :), but I'm afraid at the moment I'm not able to sell direct. The main reason is I'm on a tight budget and can't afford to hold stock, but also I'm working with some really great shops, who've helped me out a lot so I want to send people their way. The stores that'll be stocking TENDER from June/July are:

http://www.superdenim.co.uk/ (York, UK)

Few and Far, London, UK (http://fewandfar.net/)

http://www.hickorees.com/ (Brooklyn, USA)

Unionmade, San Francisco, USA (http://www.unionmadegoods.com/)

Douglas Fir, Los Angeles, USA

Tenue de Nimes, Amsterdam, NL (http://www.tenuedenimes.com/)

they all carry some really interesting stuff, and are well worth a look in case you don't know them already

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So this morning I popped in to see the people who are grading my patterns, in North London. I've made a first prototype for a new fit of jeans (for the second season) but I made it in my size, which is bigger than a sales sample, so I needed to get it graded down, and also have the home-made pattern tidied up a bit.

4582202744_13020e0b05.jpg

The patterns are digitized with a sort of electronic puck on a lightbox, and then cut directly by computer. The 'printer' they have is brilliant:

4582202126_cb103537b5.jpg

It cuts directly from the roll of card, so that you can just pop out the finished pattern pieces

4581572493_72487d22ee.jpg

I appreciate that this may not be as interesting as some of the other making processes, but one of the things I've really enjoyed about this whole project so far is finding out about all the different trades and skills that go into making a product that you never really think about before trying it for yourself. It's been a very steep learning curve!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How about the jacket?

Here you go:

As with the jeans, first the pattern is marked out on the denim. I cut the jacket without shoulder seams- there's no yoke, but the back is seamed to the fronts at where the front yoke would normally be. The idea with this is that the bias fabric over the shoulders will mould to the body and become really comfortable. Howver it does make for a very wide panel piece, which only just come out across the narrow fabric:

4581729395_cbe6e08033.jpg

In fact you can see it's so tight there's actually a tiny bit of selvage left on the point of the shoulder:

4582359698_9f84ae2306.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the next job is to prepare all the pieces that will be sewn onto the shell panels. First the lower patch pockets, which are lined with the same Lancashire selvage calico as the jeans pockets:

4581730401_c28756d6f4.jpg

then the side straps, which are folded on the selvage:

4581730881_885544dd6a.jpg

Now the various pockets are sewn onto the shell. The lower pockets are sewn into the side seam at the side, and into the hem at the bottom, and the left chest map pocket is sewn into the side and yoke seams. There's also a swinging inside pocket on the inside right chest, sewn into the yoke seam.

4581731447_f12745a2a2.jpg

You can also see the selvage side straps, which are sewn into the side seams just above the lower pockets.

The vertical stitch lines running parallel to the front opening are where a strip of cotton herringbone tape is sewn in with buttonholes to take the removable blanket lining.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BIll - this is so fascinating, keep posting! Im really looking forward to seeing the leatherwear!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks Viv! ^^^ Leather pics will come up sometime soon. On a side note, I found out today that my belt factory are able and happy to do the bag I've designed for the second season, so more excitement to come!

back to the jacket...

I'm afraid I don't have a very vlear picture of this, but the next stage is to put the collar on. I like the Levi's Type I/II stitch (Levi's history experts I may be misquoting here, but it's true of what I've seen). The collar is put on in 2 stitches- first the outside is seamed to the jacket neck hole, and the then the inside is topstitched over it. On later Levi's jackets (III/IV), the collar is put on in one operation. To look at, with the earlier version you don;t see the topsticth when you lift the collar up. This jacket's collar is also cut in one piece, folded along the outside edge.

4581731917_ceeed3e0e5.jpg

You can also see in the foreground jacket in this picture that there's a small inverted box pleat at the centre back neck. This just puts a bit of extra cloth into the back across the shoulders, which lets you move your arms freely while still allowing a nice neat high armhole.

The sleeves go in on the run and fell machine, in one line with the side seams (like a shirt), and the cuffs are hemmed with a double fold, like the jeans hem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love blanket-lined denim jackets (storm riders et al), but my problems with this for TENDER were that 1) I'm using unsanforized fabric, so that after a wash any sewn-in lining would be far too big, and sag out all over the place, and 2) as the jacket's going to be dyed after it's finished, any sewn-in lining would have to be dyed too, which wouldn't necessarily look good (also air bubbles would get trapped between the 2 fabrics, causing the indigo to oxidise unevenly). The solution I've come up with is to make the lining button-in, which also makes the jacket more versatile.

The lining fabric is a Kojima-woven repro of Storm Rider lining, woven from recycled wool, rayon, acetate, and polyester. It really feels exactly the same as the originals, down to the little flecks of random colour from the recycled wool:

4581732455_811e45fc29.jpg

This is a bit out of sequence, but while Natu was cutting the lining fabirc, Sarla was hemming the jackets. At the point where the lower pockets are sewn into the hem, the fabric gets so thick that Sarla has to hammer it down before sewing the seam. On the plus side though, the different layers will make for fantastic fading.

4581733051_b2669f7d2a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When the lining's buttoned in, it covers the swing-pocket in the inside right chest, so I put an extra patch pocket on the lining inside right. This is also nice if the liner is worn separately, as a vest. The pocket has a TENDER label sewn on in a looped stitch that runs off at the sides, as with the jeans and jacket labels.

4581733557_eb7e1dafb4.jpg

The lining is sewn together on a flatlock machine, as is normally used on jersey sweatshirts, in a contrast white thread. We talked about matching the stripes across the pocket, but I decided against it- I like the slightly patchwork effect this gives, whereas if they matched the pocket would merge into the main fabric- more sophisticated perhaps, but less appropriate in this case:

4581733993_6b2de1ddc8.jpg

In this picture you can also just see 2 parallel stitch lines across the front lining panel behind the pocket mouth. This is for a strip of cotton herringbone tape which supports the pocket. The lining fabric isn't as strong as denim, so a line of tape stops the pocket corners pulling out when it's used. This is a system commonly used on duffel coats. The corners are further fixed down by rivets which go through pocket, lining panel, and herringbone tape.

When the lining's all sewn up, black plastic Savile Row tailor's 'strap buttons' (traditionally used for braces) are sewn onto the outside fronts of the vest, and the jacket's finished.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a great project ! If in the future you'll propose denim in size 38-40, I swear that i m buying it !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By dianahenrystuff
      When we are talking about plus size clothes there are always a question about what to wear that looks cool and good, i like to suggest women denim shirts for plus size women's. Try to wear dress denim shirts it like loose fitted shirts that never goes wrong. here are some best options Denim Vintage Shirt, Fit Bleached Denim Shirt, Dark Wash Denim Shirt and more these type of shades easily added with any accessories and footwear.
      Just share you own experience,which shade of denim shirts you like from which house?

    • By mlyngard


      View Advert Momotaro 0405-V Hi-Tapered fit 15.7oz 34w / 30ins
      Momotaro 0405-V Hi-Tapered fit. From Standard & Strange. These are the one-rinse version, so all shrinkage is done. New condition, never worn. If you know this brand, you know this is some of the best denim out there.
      Tagged size 34. Hemmed at S&S to ~30" inseam. Actual measurements: w: ~34.5, f.r: 11.25", hem: 7.25" across. Retail price at S&S is $265
      Please see linked Standard & Strange sizing chart and model info for more details. PalPal preferred please. I can accept money orders and checks but they would need to clear. Will ship national US or International via US Postal Service Priority. Shipping free.
      Advertiser mlyngard Date 10/03/2017 Price $175.00 Category denim  
    • By mlyngard
      Momotaro 0405-V Hi-Tapered fit. From Standard & Strange. These are the one-rinse version, so all shrinkage is done. New condition, never worn. If you know this brand, you know this is some of the best denim out there.
      Tagged size 34. Hemmed at S&S to ~30" inseam. Actual measurements: w: ~34.5, f.r: 11.25", hem: 7.25" across. Retail price at S&S is $265
      Please see linked Standard & Strange sizing chart and model info for more details. PalPal preferred please. I can accept money orders and checks but they would need to clear. Will ship national US or International via US Postal Service Priority. Shipping free.
    • By ole
      Hey there,
       
      It's been a while since I've posted last but I received a press release from Denim Days New York. You can find them @denimdaysfestival on instagram. 
       
      They're holding their festival this weekend (Sept. 29- Oct. 1) and will have a lot of different types of presentations from indigo dying to jean repair. Blue In Green will also be in attendance.
       
      If you're in the area and want to check it out go to http://denim-days.com/ny/tickets/
       
      See attached for more info.
      pressrelease_NYDD_1[3].pdf
    • By Saisen


      View Advert Neighborhood Rigid . Narrow / 14Oz-Pt Black and Indigo PACK 
      Neighborhood Rigid . Narrow / 14Oz-Pt Black and Indigo PACK 
      Brand new / Unworn with Tags 
      Size LARGE (~ 33/34 waist, Slim Straight Fit) 
      Price = $350 AUD / 265 USD
      Shipping & Fees = $90 AUD / 70 USD (or just PM me to save on fees)
      TOTAL = $440 AUD / 335 USD

      - Item is located in AUSTRALIA. 
      - Can be declared at lower value for customs purposes at buyers request. 
      A consistent best seller and favorite is the NEIGHBORHOOD Rigid Denim. The Rigid denim is non-seasonal and is offered in a variety of different cuts in either Rigid Indigo or Rigid Black. Made with 14 oz Japanese Selvedge Denim over time these will characteristically fade to each individuals body providing a unique canvas. The 5 pocket narrow fit is a straight denim cut to be more fitted. NEIGHBORHOOD blue stitched back pockets and red selvedge out-seam provide a little hit of detailing to an otherwise clean and basic denim.
      100% Cotton 14oz Rigid Japanese Selvedge Denim 
      Zip Fly with Neighborhood Technical Apparel Tape Detail 
      Narrow Straight Fit 
      Hand Finished 
      Hidden Selvedge Detail inside Watch Pocket 
      Stitched N Rear Pocket Detail 
      Leather Waist Patch 
      Made in Japan
      Advertiser Saisen Date 09/22/2017 Price $335.00 Category denim