Tender Co. Denim

[julian-wolf 8,434]

Favorite elephant mug has been relegated to semi-permanent vase duty

(moved outside, temporarily, for good lighting)

[julian-wolf 8,434]

Picked up a pair of the new cord trousers, really excited

Still need to give them a hem, but turning them up a few inches to the inside is doing fine in the meantime

 Also feat. my favorite Bridge Pocket shirt

[chicote 5,219]

Great fit on those julian!

[rodeo bill 178,099]

Lovely fit! thank you so much- I'm really pleased with how these came out. The corduroy is lovely, it's deadstock English-woven from a company that still produces fabric, but shifted to European weaving years ago, these were some rolls they had left over, which I bought a while back. I really like the crumpled pile out of the dryer, although this should drop out with a bit of wear. More 122 versions to come in the next week.

[rodeo bill 178,099]

In other news- bags! These have been a while in development, a project with a good friend in Glasgow. It started out like this:

an outer heavy wool 'sling' folds over itself at the corners (forming Elephant Ears), and contains a separate cotton bag, which is supported in the sling and yet is free to expand at the sides. Here is the eventual family of three sizes, a backpack, satchel and pouch, all made up in ecru wool woven for tennis balls. I've been wearing the backpack since the early in the year, and it's been great- I've stuffed it under plane seats, on train luggage wracks, used it for food shopping and as a weekend bag.

 

[AlientoyWorkmachine 1,823]

2 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Picked up a pair of the new cord trousers, really excited

Still need to give them a hem, but turning them up a few inches to the inside is doing fine in the meantime

 Also feat. my favorite Bridge Pocket shirt

I missed that these existed. I've been searching for the right cord trousers - not 5 pocket - high and low, these look great.

How do you like the cut? 

[julian-wolf 8,434]

@AlientoyWorkmachine You didn’t miss it for long; I think they just popped up in the last couple of weeks

[julian-wolf 8,434]

@rodeo bill Those bags look great. Do you think you’ll be dyeing any of them?

[rodeo bill 178,099]

8 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

@rodeo bill Those bags look great. Do you think you’ll be dyeing any of them?

thanks, and yeah they're really lovely things. I'd like to dye them, but it'll be a bit challenging as the wool can't be washed too hot, and the sewing is polyester upholstery thread (for strength). I do love the idea of an ecru bag, though, and I've been enjoying my own. The fabric is quite stain resistant, but the couple of mud splashes I have on mine are really turning it into something special. I  like the idea of something quite fresh and architectural gaining the look and feel of a really battered explorer's pack with time.

[tjsma 14]

@rodeo bill can we see a picture of yours?

[rodeo bill 178,099]

On 9/15/2023 at 4:00 PM, tjsma said:

@rodeo bill can we see a picture of yours?

here you go. I'll try to get some action shots this week!

[rodeo bill 178,099]

and @tjsma here we are!:

The straps are all adjustable- the satchel and pouch here are both shortened quite a bit, they could both hang at waist height if preferred

 

[tjsma 14]

Thanks @rodeo bill They look great. I particularly like that satchel.

[rodeo bill 178,099]

On 9/14/2023 at 8:30 PM, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

I missed that these existed. I've been searching for the right cord trousers - not 5 pocket - high and low, these look great.

How do you like the cut? 

Obviously can't speak for @julian-wolf(fit looks great to me though!), and I'd be very interested to hear his thoughts, but I've also been dissatisfied with corduroy options- for whatever reason I'm just not that into corduroy jeans, but I'm not ready for full tailored trousers in corduroy, either. 122 is directly based on 132, with the same amount of seat shape taken out with a vertical pleat rather than a horizontal/diagonal yoke seam. Sizing is equivalent.

I don't know how to quote across threads, but in the Wide Jeans Thread @chicote said "the tender 132 as a wide fit option — again, just my experience wearing a size 2 (roughly 1 inch oversized on me) which I felt like I was swimming in years ago!". Not quite sure if this is what he meant, but his comment reminded me of something that I was told when I worked at Hackett in London 20 years ago (now more fashion/midmarket than it was then, when it was still a pretty legit traditional outfitters, somewhat similar to how Drake's is now). I was told that Hackett neck ties were always 'the right' width, but that that subtly changed every so often, so that within the broader fashion context they didn't look unusually skinny or wide. I can't remember who it was that told me this, but they also said that this was the same with Levi's 501s, which isn't actually a set pattern at all, but changes/d with the times (as we know). Looking at 132s and the 122s which I'm wearing at the moment, they were originally intended as a wide fit, and the pattern has never changed at all, but over the last 13 years they now feel more like a regular fit to me, with 130 seeming quite slim. Granted I may personally be growing into them (ahem), but looking at Julian's 122s I think they just look 'right' rather than notably wide or high-waisted.