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Tender Co. Denim


braille_teeth

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Here are some as-worn photos:

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 I use the regular front pockets for keys, phone (usually) and anything small that I find myself carrying around. I use the leg pockets as I would use the back pockets on regular jeans- in my case that means wallet on the right, and coin purse and card case on the left. The leg pockets are really easy to drop things in and out of, and they're available whether you're sitting or standing (top front pockets are fiddly to get into when you're sitting down, as are back pockets). I also find that if I'm holding things, or in the middle of doing something, I would often previously drop my phone, or a screwdriver/scissors etc, into my back pocket, but then forget about it and sit down on it. These are much better for that- an added bonus I discovered is that if a baby falls asleep on your lap it's easy to get your phone out without waking them up!

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The final advantage, and the idea in the first place, is it leaves the back pocket-free, which means you don't wind up sitting down on a thick wallet. I've got used to these to the point that I was wearing my 127s the other day and it felt really strange to feel my wallet pushing into me. This is especially true while driving, or while sitting on a plane/bus. I've also found that I feel less worried about pickpockets, if I'm travelling, as everything's front of you. 

The light's incredible today, so here are some bonus fabric shots...

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loving that we can upload images directly into sufu!

The thigh pockets start pretty much exactly at the bottom edge of the pocket bag of the regular top side pockets, and they're high enough up that it's not a problem to reach down to pull a wallet etc out. If you had loose change in there it would be a bit of a stretch to reach to the bottom of the thigh pocket. Your point about the top patches of the 128s is how I also feel about regular front pockets, which was the issue these are trying to address. I use the top (regular) side pockets for little things that I don't need when I'm likely sitting down (keys, loose change/objects) and the thigh pockets for bigger things that are easy to reach out. I hope  that makes sense! Thanks also for the nice words about Deborah's jeans- you're right, the pockets have skewed a bit- I think this is true of a lot of jeans pockets, over time, actually, but it's just a lot more noticeable when you start with a square rather than a spade shape, etc. 

Edited by rodeo bill
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Denim always looks much more interesting in direct sunlight. My tender jeans in particular show - what seems like - an extra 3-4 shades/layers, which is really striking in person.

I'll try to update on my 129s again in the coming weeks. I've worn them quite a bit over the winter and they're due for another soak soon.  

Edited by Nei.Nor
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  • 2 weeks later...

woad linen square tail shirt, size 2. as references: i wear 42 in fh tees, medium in mf shirts, 170 cm in tezo tees, medium in most other tees/shirts. i also have a butterfly shirt in calico, that's a size 3.

loc: rendezvous, old skool chinese restaurant in downtown jakarta. food was excellent, evidenced by the empty, licked-clean plates.

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I'm working on adding a bit of length to the back rise of my 128s--really love them as is but just want a bit more space in the top block. It's not beautiful or perfect but so far I'm liking how it's turning out.

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started out with this strip of fabric, which is both the hems I cut a few months ago and then sewed together at the selvedge. And that's my sewing machine, an old Wilcox and Gibbs, which was woefully unprepared for the job I was about to ask of it.

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I started by unpicking the waistband...

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...except for the very ends. I didn't want to extend the button area as it might have messed with the way the pants look in the front.

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Then I laid in the cuff, pinned it and stitched it in...

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all of my pins bent under the stress of holding together just two layers of this denim, which was a nice hint that I might be materially unequipped to take this project on.

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but I went on anyway, ironing, folding and felling the seam of the extension.

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next was measuring up the angle of the extension, which I only sort of did based off some measurements I took before starting. I wanted maybe an inch of extra room at the back and tried to get the waistband to move smoothly up to that.

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alas, here was the kicker--my machine jumped and sputtered and even spat a bit of smoke trying to get through what I think was 5 layers of fabric, and pins were also of no use, so I resorted to hand stitching the whole waistband (it was like 2am at this point).

Edited by chicote
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Several hours later... voila!

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excuse my messy room and messy stitching. but it's done, except for attaching the belt loops. Really like how the jeans fit now, much more accommodating, though the obvious dip down by the button is something I might try and remediate in the future. anyway, that's all, thanks for looking!

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love it man. there's something about tender stuffs that practically urge you to tinker with/mod them. i'll never do it i'm too lazy but in my head i can see stuff that would be cool to do had i been more industrious like you. i did restitch a stitch on my backpocket that got stuck on a bench and came off something that i would've left alone if it happened to my other jeans. the tender jeans kinda look even cooler with my half-arsed repair job!

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my wife and i read at a poetry reading celebrating the release of a biopic on wiji thukul, one of indonesia's greatest poets, and a workers' rights activist who was "disappeared" by the new order regime in indonesia in 1998. his whereabouts is still unknown. (latest investigation suggested his body was mutilated, put in steel drum and dropped into the ocean just north of jakarta).

it's beyond ironic that i was reading a poem by a poet known as the voice of the poor in indonesia wearing my (by indonesian standard) super-expensive high-end tender garb, but solidarity (hopefully) overcomes class divide.

a few english translations of jikul's poems are available here

#panjangumurperlawanan

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On 22/01/2017 at 11:03 PM, chicote said:

I'm working on adding a bit of length to the back rise of my 128s--really love them as is but just want a bit more space in the top block. It's not beautiful or perfect but so far I'm liking how it's turning out.IMG_0216.JPG

Thank you so much for posting all this chicote! They look really great, and I love seeing the hand stitch. The back sits really nicely now, and the front dip will probably level out a bit as they stretch in, if you decide to leave it. Thanks too to oomslokop for such a nice way of putting it- I really hope that it does come across that these clothes are meant to be personal and adapted where necessary. In chicote's case I particularly like how they're already a bit worn in, so they'll get two lives in the two different shapes.

On 31/01/2017 at 9:27 AM, oomslokop said:

my wife and i read at a poetry reading celebrating the release of a biopic on wiji thukul, one of indonesia's greatest poets, and a workers' rights activist who was "disappeared" by the new order regime in indonesia in 1998. his whereabouts is still unknown. (latest investigation suggested his body was mutilated, put in steel drum and dropped into the ocean just north of jakarta).

it's beyond ironic that i was reading a poem by a poet known as the voice of the poor in indonesia wearing my (by indonesian standard) super-expensive high-end tender garb, but solidarity (hopefully) overcomes class divide.

a few english translations of jikul's poems are available here

#panjangumurperlawanan

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oomslokop, thank you so much for this (and for the restaurant shot earlier). I've spent some time reading the English translations in your link, it's really moving stuff. I thought the first poem on the list (my neighbour next door) and the last (what is the worth of my poetry?) are particularly powerful, but there's a lot of very beautiful language, even in translation, through the whole set. I hope it was a rewarding event. For what it's worth, you and your wife both look great! Thank you for the introduction.

Sorry I've been quiet for a couple of weeks, we were away on vacation, and I've come back to a huge amount to do. There are a few new pieces from the upcoming Spring/Summer 2017 production appearing on the Stores and in stockists over the next few days, and I'll post full pictures asap. 

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Bill, hope you won't mind me sharing the little teaser (html source code) you left on your new project.

THEN. Clothing inspired by the great architects, designers, artists, and writers of mid-Twentieth Century Europe, Britain, and America. Produced in Britain and Japan by William Kroll and Homestead, Ltd.

http://t-h-e-n.com/

Looking forward to this.

Edited by dilemmaworker
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thanks! no, not at all. there are two new projects arriving fairly imminently, THEN should be in shops around early-March, and we're in the middle of building a full selling site for a new jeans project, which will be at whooperjeans.com. Told you there's a lot going on at the moment!

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thank you very much for checking out jikul's poems and for your thoughtful comments, william.

btw, the biopic is called "solo, solitude" in english and is being screened at the rotterdam film festival at the moment, if you europeans want to take a gander.

 

any short-sleeve shirt in s/s 2017, william?

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30 minutes ago, oomslokop said:

any short-sleeve shirt in s/s 2017, william?

Yes! I've listed one new style here, and I'll have a few more pieces up tonight. Please just email me if you have any questions.

25 minutes ago, jason995511 said:

William, I've been seeing some of the new items pop up. They look amazing. I'm glad to see you brought the wattle back, my favorite!

Thanks Jason! I was going to email you- there are some wattle socks going up shortly :-)

Production will be a little spaced out, through February and March, but there's plenty more to come

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41 minutes ago, dilemmaworker said:

Cool, those Whoopers are giving off strong Maverick/Blue Bell vibes. 

;-) exactly the kind of thing we're going for. Thank you. More asap, I want to get everything tidied up and have full production in before I say more, but please watch this space.

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Picked up a logwood dyed wool/cotton shirt from the Superdenim sale last week!

 

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Beautiful colour and wonderful, substantive hand to the fabric... feels like an old French army blanket.

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another shot of the fabric, and this awesome overlock...

and here's the fit:IMG_0301.JPG

pretty androgynous -- i really dig it!

Edited by chicote
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These just came yesterday, 129 Wattle size 3. I originally ordered the unborn 129 in a size 2 but there was an eBay mix up and the dude sold them and relisted them. The guy made it right by offering me these wattle 129 in a size 3. They are a bit big in the waist but in true Tender style, I'm gonna sew in two darts and just wear them! So far I'm loving the fit and the fabric on these guys (the wattle dye is really something to be seen in person). DSCF3581.jpg

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@chicote Here you go:

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The color is kind of a brown, very similar to persimmon dye. It makes the hairs really warm and adds a bit of texture to the almost black looking indigo. I'm pretty excited to see how these things age, there are already so many little variations on the denim that is just hinting at what they have to offer! 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just thought I would add some pics of some of my Tender accessories - love the way the leather ages. I do need a new watch strap as it has started to split around one of the spring bars - I would like one of the expanding stainless steel straps as seen on some of the GS/TP models, but these don't appear to be available from the strap shop or the Trestle Store......

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Edited by Pierogas
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^looking great ooms! thank you. And Piero, too, lovely collection. I'll put together an equivalent shot of mine.

Sorry for so little updates recently, it's a really busy time of year. I'll put up full new production Spring/Summer photos shortly, but in the meantime, here are the original hand-carved resin masters for a new trestle shop product I'm particularly happy with!

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and here are the finished castings:

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We'll have to wait a while for them to patinate, then put them in Shoes That Look Better With Age!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, after a bit of a wait to back up stock and get deliveries on their way out to shops, here are some photos of the new production, for Spring/Summer 2017!

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I'll put some more information and details up asap. In the meantime there are a few more images at http://www.madebytender.com/category/springsummer-2017/.

Photos are by Rory Cole, on 35mm film, taken at the salt marsh at Portishead, Bristol.

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The new spring collection looks nice, looking forward to seeing some more.
I'm trying to decide on a Tender belt, I think I've narrowed it down to the following styles: 210, 208 and the 200.
I'll likely go with the tan oak bark leather, although the 210 with the black stain on one side seems pretty versatile.

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