Tender Co. Denim

[oranswell]

^^yep, that's right, I've had them for about 10 years now, I suppose- new when I got them. I was apprenticed to John Coggin, who used to have Tobias on Savile Row, next to where Anderson & Sheppard was (now that block's redeveloped). When I was with him we were working out of Hackett in Liverpool St. 

 

I don't have a standard chart for jeans, but please just email me if you need specific measurements of anything we have in stock and I'll take them for you.

 

Cool, cracking kit they are. William Whitely and Ernest Wright & Son still make shears and scissors as well as maintain old ones.

 

Just looking for measurements of the 129 slim fit sizes?

[rodeo bill]

^^waist measurements for 129 are true to tag (1=28", 2=30", 3=32", 4=34", 5=36", 6=38") with rinsed and dyed styles, 2" over that for Unborn. Feel free to email me if you need more measures.

 

 

For anyone interested in socks… here's a live preview of a new idea:

 

 

 

here's the result!:

 

up on the Trestle Shop now. More in-season products & experiments coming soon 

[Maynard Friedman]

Tie-dye for feet - toe-dye!

[rodeo bill]

toe dye four

[muesive attack]

Damn I need some of those socks! They look brill. quick question to the people here, do you leave you're tender washing instruction tabs on your stuff when it's in really visible places? I do, as I'm a sucker for that type of quirky thing, just curious if I'm the only nutter doing this haha,

Edited June 9, 2014 by muesive attack

[Pierogas]

FLOWERPOT LEFT HAND TWILL COTTON CAP

 

 

Thanks for the pic - had been toying with buying one of these myself but wasn't sure how the shape would look - your pic persuaded me to go ahead. Must say the item is better than I expected - and a little less 'orange' than the pic on the Trestleshop site.

On another matter - and a shameless plug (if this is ok to do in this forum....) I am selling a new short sleeved woad butterfly shirt size 4 on ebay.co.uk - lovely shirt just prefer a looser sleeve.

[jason995511]

William, planning any experiments with the wattle dyes at all? You'd pretty much have at least one guaranteed sale over here
The socks look amazing btw.

 

^^Pierogas, glad the photo helped. I originally was hesitant for the same reason, but love the hat in person. I have a similar one in navy blue also. Hope he makes some more hats, they have a great fit and look to them.

[oranswell]

^^waist measurements for 129 are true to tag (1=28", 2=30", 3=32", 4=34", 5=36", 6=38") with rinsed and dyed styles, 2" over that for Unborn. Feel free to email me if you need more measures.

 

 

Cheers for that, I mailed you a q about the thigh measurements and the leg opening.   As a matter of interest who do you rate for sharpening or servicing your shears?

[jason995511]

Just got two new great Tender items:

TYPE 301 ECRU SCOOP HEM UNDERSHIRT

TYPE 375 ECRU SCOOP HEM SHORTSLEEVE HENLEY

 

[rodeo bill]

^^great! fit looks very good, too. They'll shrink down a bit with the first wash, but you can stretch them out again quite easily (if you're really worried about it, stretch them back to size while they're still wet). I recognise the photos behind you, too 

[solargarden]

just wanted to share my two woad dyed items, left hand twill pullover and canvas trews. the trews are seriously heavy. After a bunch of wears and washes they have softened out nicely.

 

[rodeo bill]

Thank you for posting! These look great- really nice to see a full woad outfit. I've usually mixed dyes across an outfit, but I love the idea of wearing it all in one. The shirt cuff length's perfect, I think 

[satchelbmoore]

as promised, here are some photos of michael and his modified 130 unborn jeans both looking great with the amish suspenders.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pierogas]

Have just relieved Peggs of a Sleeper 3B jacket. Gorgeous stuff.

[CityPickin']

Good for Michael, Satchel B. That's pretty sweet. Dude looks psyched. 

[rodeo bill]

^^^thank you Satchel, Michael looks like a very interesting guy. ^^Piero, thank you- I'm really glad you have a jacket 

 

Here's another slight slip off topic, but Emily King, who writes for Maharam, among others, did a piece about Tender a while ago, then another about my Grandpa's book with David Bailey. Yesterday a piece by her went up about another designer in my family, my great aunt Natasha Kroll. Natasha was a great lady, and we were pretty close- I used to visit when I was a teenager and show her the stuff I was making.

[whozdrew?]

Very excited to have finally purchased my first piece from Tender. After years of following and near obsession, I was able to pick up the long sleeve Butterfly Shirt in Chlorophyll Calico for a price I couldn't pass on as Unionmade is holding the sale I've been waiting for all season.

 

I sized as recommended (2) by Satchel and others on this forum, but with my luck, everything will fit perfectly except for the shoulders. Here's to the hope that it fits!

[rodeo bill]

^Thank you! let us know how it turns out!

 

The last few weeks I've been in at Central St Martins, again, doing the denim project with the Menswear BA course. This year was a group project with the Knitwear course, which was tutored by Peter Jensen. As usual not everything's to Superfuture taste, but there were some really fantastic things, and it's always a pleasure to be involved with. Here are some highlights:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rodeo bill]

back on topic, here's a WAYWT, with a couple of Stores specials:

 

 

 

The Tshirt's a mainline Spring/Summer 2014 'rolling heads' print, dyed with woad after printing. The jeans are a new fit, which are nearly ready and will be appearing in the next few weeks- more soon! Glasses are B&L Rayban, the watch is a 60s Favre-Leuba Sea Chief on a 60s tropic-type rubber strap, shoes are from Ducker's in Oxford.

[clawbytes]

Please elaborate on the new fit!

[rodeo bill]

^will do! I'm just waiting to get new production in, then I'll post pictures of everything and all the details 

[whozdrew?]

Quick shipping brought the Butterfly Shirt to my doorstep in less than 48 hours.

 

The feel of the fabric is really unlike anything I expected, not to mention anything I've handled before. Tons of character and quite a bit denser than I had imagined. Pretty mind-blowing.

 

As expected, I myself feel as if the fit may be a bit snug around the shoulder area. You guys are the experts, here are a few quick photos, let me know what you all think.

 

 

front (top buttoned):

 

back (top buttoned):

 

front (top not buttoned):

 

close up on shoulder area:

 

 

Of course, because I caught it on SALE, I am unable to refund or exchange for the next size up. This one here is a size 2, but I really think I'd benefit from a 3. That being said, it isn't necessarily uncomfortable, only a bit slimmer than I am used to.

 

 

What do you guys think? Am I going to expect any shrinkage?

Edited June 25, 2014 by whozdrew?

[satchelbmoore]

it looks good. usually people are surprised that tender shirting tends to run large. this looks spot on.

it should stretch. i haven't washed my shirt in the same size and color but i can report back once i do. especially with the delicacy of the chlorophyl dye i'm not sure if she shirt was dyed/rinsed hot or cold.

Edited June 25, 2014 by satchelbmoore

[Maynard Friedman]

Whozdrew, that size looks perfect, larger would be a little sloppy in my opinion. I wouldn't think it would shrink but hopefully someone else can provide a definitive response.

[st199ml]

I've got that shirt in a three. There is no way you need a 3 in my opinion. Mine is large on me and I'm bigger than you judging by that picture. I'm sure Mr Kroll can say for sure, but it seems the fit is in the shoulders. The shirt then falls from there. 

 

In terms of shrink I've had none at all in the two or three times I've washed it. There does appear to be give in the fabric, though with mine fitting loose there hasn't been much stretch. 

[rodeo bill]

^^I think it looks great on you whozdrew! Thanks for posting. The shirt has already been shrunk with a hot wash (which is what gives it the interesting surface texture) so there shouldn't be any further shrinkage with normal washing and drying. The colour should be pretty secure too- with natural dyes it's not going to be quite as predictable as a chemical dye, but I have a chlorophyll Tshirt which I've been wearing since the first experiment with this dye, nearly a year ago, and it's not faded much, with many normal machine washes. As for fit, these shirts were intended to be a bit slimmer/more regular fitting than previous shirts, which have been a bit more oversized. 

[whozdrew?]

Thanks everyone, for the feedback. I can't wait to get some wear and tear on this, it's so easy to sport. Doesn't need to be ironed, which is always nice, and the unique color (the green is more potent than many of the pictures show) will go alongside a lot of things in my closet.

[rodeo bill]

(the green is more potent than many of the pictures show)

 

tell me about it! I don't know why it should be, but the natural colours are really difficult to photograph accurately. I like to not photoshop images, which leaves the colours looking quite washed out, and much paler than real life. If I do shop them to get the colour right, the images come out really fake looking, and not representative of the garment itself. I'm really glad you're enjoying your shirt- thanks again for the purchase and photos

[fineartmajor]

3 month update on my type 900

 

worn almost everyday

 

washed twice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rodeo bill]

Thank you for posting! Looks great  . I like the puckering underneath the yoke- because the warp shrinks more than the weft, and the yoke line runs more or less along the weft (not totally, as the lack of shoulder seam puts it slightly on the bias) while the front body panels are cut straight, the yoke shrinks more than the fronts in the seam, causing it to draw the excess fronts fabric into the seam.

 

Here are a couple of customers' watch straps:

 

A lovely pair of, I'd guess late 50's Longines, one on unstained tan oak bark leather, the other on black grain oak bark leather.

 

And a Junghans Max Bill on a modified tan oak bark leather- the customer asked for an extra loop, and sewed it on to make a second keeper:

 

Max Bill dial designs are really beautiful, I think. Great clocks, too- worth a look!